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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Slot, Indian Creek.


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Charlie S


Point Rank: # 809
Total Points: 736
Last Year: 324
Last 30 Days: 22
8 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All (691) | Routes (15) | Areas (4) | Photos (88) | Comments (86) | Posts (141) | Stars (275) | Ratings (82)
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

So close, but still not close enough.

So close, but still not close enough.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

The top of the roof is the crux.

The top of the roof is the crux.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Rappelling off the top.

Rappelling off the top.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Spiderman from the side.  Unsuccessful attempt.

Spiderman from the side. Unsuccessful attempt.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

End of the first pitch of Jackie

End of the first pitch of Jackie

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Dec 15, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Water Dog (5.11c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Fun, but chossy roof. Make sure your belayer isn't standing too close to the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Bad Day at Black Rocks (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: After clipping the first bolt, move left. Going to the right puts you on chossy rock (which broke on me).

Sparse gear unless you can hang on to one pad edges while working with small wires. Good holds can be found for rests but do not provide reasonable protection.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Tree Crack Area : Tree Crack (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbs like a face climb with the crack for protection.


Location: Charlie S : Climbing Pictures : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! Photo taken by Sean Smith.

https://www.facebook.com/sasmithphotography


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Bring a number of 0.75's for the final section. I brought 3 and placed two. I'm also a total chicken on sandstone lieback.

If you're light on the 3's, you can coax a #4 in on the starting 30 feet. A handful of 1's, 4-5 #2s, 1 #0.5, and 3-4 #3's.

A nice long route. A 70m will get you back down to the starting ledge with length to spare.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Tequila Sunrise (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: A curious rattly-fingers starting crux leads to glorious jamming all the way to the top. Do it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: If only one wasn't so exhausted from the three approach pitches!

Seriously, if these were the first and second pitches straight off of the ground, there would be a line a mile long every weekend. A very worthy climb with fun moves.

I used singles in every size from #0.5-#5, except #2 which I used 2 of.

A 2nd #3 might have been nice, but not necessary.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Only Human Var. (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This seemed harder than Plasma, but probably because it is sustained.

Cool chimney feature. I placed a #1 in the far back and up high with a double-length runner. After that it was tricky feet to reach the chicken head and then regain the lieback section of the crack.

Watch the groove at the very top as you transition to the slab. It will trap a rope.

The slab above is spicy. Have fun!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Plasma (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: Found this route to be a one-move wonder. Although you can get two cams in at the very start of the undercling, you're still in ankle tweaking territory until your feet get established 5 feet off the ledge.

Once you're on the diorite, it's a cake walk past there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Coffin Roof (5.12) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Wow, 5.12 in a swami belt! Hardcore!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire Direct (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Sure, you can layback, but creative jamming and footwork can go a long way too.

The gear at the crux is awesome. Go for it! The bottom half is standard LCC flaring butt crack. But there are a few sections which take nuts very well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Naked and Dead (5.10 R) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Cool picture, but this picture is associated with The Naked and the Dead Variation (5.11)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Coyne Crack (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: A totally awesome climb.

I got on this hoping to push myself since 5.11d is clearly out of my onsight or even single fall range. No, multiple falls were taken. But the great thing about this crack is that it protects well.

A lesson in pain tolerance and endurance (for us mere mortals who are still putzing around in the 5.10 range). I'm not sure the complaints about it being too short are warranted; it was plenty long for me!

A few notes:
1, approach from The Thumb gully, rope up ... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Splitter (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Awesome climb! Get on it!

The gear listed may be a little excessive. I used singles of BD #0.3-#0.75 (plus 1 yellow and 1 red alien), 3 BD #1s, 1 BD #2, two nuts below the crux, and slung a patina dinner plate.

While climbing, I was wishing I had the blue alien. In hindsight, I'm glad I didn't have it since it would have pulled the rope too far into the crack. The crux itself isn't that bad. It's the post-crux pump that will get you!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.10-)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Found this entertaining, but definitely hard. Not a gimme. Thought it'd be cleaner, but nope! Still needs some more ascents to clean it up!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Airtime (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: An amusing climb. Enough fixed gear on it to almost make it a "sport" climb. Fun and airy with a crux that will have you thinking, but probably not going on the repeat list.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Do it!

Used 1 #4 and 1 #5 for the top.


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