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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are rests after each crux. I found the gear slightly tricky, but maybe that was because I placed too much.
Short and fun! Powering through the cruxes to get to the rest stances would have been better than fiddling with gear before the cruxes.
A #3 is nice to place near the top after the last crux.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Roadside Attraction
By: Charlie S When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you see the death scree approach for Utah Wall, turn back around and go back 20ft. There are (currently) grassy ledges near the bottom with some broken class hidden in it.
There's a super bomber bolt at the top of the awkward ramp which makes a great first piece of protection!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall
By: Charlie S When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that there are two bridges! If you park across from the picnic area and cross the bridge there (up canyon), this is the WRONG BRIDGE. It's apparent that many a climber has taken the talus field behind it and ended up wandering around for nothing.
Use the down canyon bridge, next to the pit toilets (where the regular parking is on the south side of the road). After crossing the down canyon bridge, go left, and follow that obvious talus field.
If you take the up canyon bridge, go right a... more >>
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Chocolate Moose (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking at the book, it appears as if I started in the crack near the bottom as opposed to the face where the route's supposed to start. Does anyone have any information on this variation?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Unknown 5.11d (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 move wonder. Big throw to get to the 3rd bolt. Gain a few inches reset your feet, and another big throw to the left. Clip the 4th bolt. Then it's over.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Dead Drunk (5.10+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, but soft rating. Would be a "Gunks" 5.7.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Bong A Long (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think this comes anywhere near the 5.9 rating. This is very similar to Shotgun (5.6) up in Ogden Canyon.
However, it is a very fun route!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field
By: Charlie S When: Jul 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone has decided to use brown spray paint to cover over either previous graffiti or chalk on Tooth and Cliff Side boulders. There's also a brand new piece of spray paint "artwork" at the top of the Tooth boulder. This obviously detracts not only from the aesthetics but also the friction of the rock.
I'm most disappointed with whichever local decided he'd like to leave his mark. Unfortunately this sets a precedent for other rebellious youths. I just hope it doesn't end up looking like tha... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Jagged Wedge (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I doubt chopped in half, but thanks for the input. Had I known there was pro way in the back I would have ventured there. From my vantage point it appeared to be flat the whole way, and wasn't interested in a fall inside and the subsequent body wedge.
What sizes exist way back?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bongeater Buttress : Bongeater (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard and varried! Wish I could have gotten it clean but it demands endurance. Managed to fit a #4 at the lower portion of the OW and then a #5 at the very top, on which I fell and weighted numerous times. Definitely worth doing and trying again for the clean ascent.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: May 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took this same fall. But didn't get as low as the chicken heads.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Comfort Zone (5.9-)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seeing the bolt, I took the right "ear" variation. Topping out to the left looked way run out. The friction moves over to the ear are not bad.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden
By: Charlie S When: Mar 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The proper coordinates are: 44.1269, -73.9603. The positive 73.9603 throws you into the wrong hemisphere.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom West (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is the best. Typical LCC 5.7 difficulty. Avoids the traverses of standard Schoolroom. A very fun outing!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Feb 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for that clarification. I couldn't seem to make much sense out of the guidebook's topo.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch rope drag coming out of the overhang! While you might think the first overhang is the crux, it's not. Put decent runners on it or you'll regret it 10 feet later.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Burner (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To approach this crack, walk around back (to the top of the Bong Eater buttress) and then work your way up and left (west) near a tree where this climb starts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Dread Locks (5.10+)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this thinking it was Burner. The graphics in the guidebook are a little vague for this section.
There's a large boulder right above the first large "flake" that's lose. I'll bet if you cranked on it hard enough, it would dislodge. Unfortunate as it has two great holds on it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crack in the Woods (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this on lead for the second time. This has got to be one of my Top 5 favorite routes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field : Patriot Crack Area : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Dec 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend the red route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field
By: Charlie S When: Dec 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock here is quartzite, similar to the Schoolroom area just above. Also similar to BCC, but this quartzite isn't nearly as slick.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg,
I'm posting an edited picture with two additional anchors.
Since we only made it up half way, I am in no place to critique the upper half of The Thumb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Plumb Line (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! Amazing move after amazing move! All the cruxes are well protected. Awesome, awesome climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70m. Two BD #2's provided an adequate station to practically "walk" to the Lunch Ledge rap. A BD #3 would have been more desirable, however.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Northwest Passage (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used 3 cams to fill in the blanks on this one. Two of which were before the first bolt. Pumpy start. Good climb.
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