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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Slot, Indian Creek.


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Charlie S


Point Rank: # 808
Total Points: 736
Last Year: 324
Last 30 Days: 22
7 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (691) | Routes (15) | Areas (4) | Photos (88) | Comments (86) | Posts (141) | Stars (275) | Ratings (82)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : FDR (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Fun moves and good protection. Would be a great intro to 5.10 leading.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Excellent climb! Found exiting the hand traverse on the 2nd pitch rather unique. Perhaps because I had mantled it, and making the walk around the arete puts you off balance.

Highly recommended, easy to protect.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Sparkling Schnitzel (5.11-)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: I found a #5 to be useful at the wide portion 8' below the chains.

Also found that racking most of the large gear on your right side was helpful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10 - just after t... (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: Definitely agree this is closer to 80' long.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: When reading these comments, I thought that people claiming it was harder than 5.9 were soft.

Well, I was wrong. Expect to be pushed!

Also, double racks was too much gear. I took a #5, which was placed on all the pitches except the 3rd pitch.

Gear that I used:
1 Black Alien (directional on top of P3)
1 Yellow Alien
1 Red Alien
1 Red Metolius (for building an anchor at the top, not necessarily needed)
1 BD #.5
1 BD #.75
1 BD #1
1 BD #2
1 BD #3
1 BD #... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : Edge of Madness (5.11c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 10, 2013

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Comments: A great climb. Had a fun time working the moves. A worthy goal.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock : Chicken Wire (5.8)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: This is a very fun sport route. You can clip the wires to make it a 4-"bolt" route. The crux is well protected. Would give it a G-rating for protection.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Moonlight Overhang : Moonlight Overhang (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: The start is thin, protection wise. The crux is protected by a beefy piton.

There are now bolt anchors at the top of this route.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: There are rests after each crux. I found the gear slightly tricky, but maybe that was because I placed too much.

Short and fun! Powering through the cruxes to get to the rest stances would have been better than fiddling with gear before the cruxes.

A #3 is nice to place near the top after the last crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Roadside Attraction
By: Charlie S When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: If you see the death scree approach for Utah Wall, turn back around and go back 20ft. There are (currently) grassy ledges near the bottom with some broken class hidden in it.

There's a super bomber bolt at the top of the awkward ramp which makes a great first piece of protection!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall
By: Charlie S When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Note that there are two bridges! If you park across from the picnic area and cross the bridge there (up canyon), this is the WRONG BRIDGE. It's apparent that many a climber has taken the talus field behind it and ended up wandering around for nothing.

Use the down canyon bridge, next to the pit toilets (where the regular parking is on the south side of the road). After crossing the down canyon bridge, go left, and follow that obvious talus field.

If you take the up canyon bridge, go right a... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Good Medicine Area : Chocolate Moose (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 18, 2012

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Comments: Looking at the book, it appears as if I started in the crack near the bottom as opposed to the face where the route's supposed to start. Does anyone have any information on this variation?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Unknown 5.11d (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: 2 move wonder. Big throw to get to the 3rd bolt. Gain a few inches reset your feet, and another big throw to the left. Clip the 4th bolt. Then it's over.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Dead Drunk (5.10+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Fun, but soft rating. Would be a "Gunks" 5.7.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Bong A Long (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: I don't think this comes anywhere near the 5.9 rating. This is very similar to Shotgun (5.6) up in Ogden Canyon.

However, it is a very fun route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Boulder Field
By: Charlie S When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: Someone has decided to use brown spray paint to cover over either previous graffiti or chalk on Tooth and Cliff Side boulders. There's also a brand new piece of spray paint "artwork" at the top of the Tooth boulder. This obviously detracts not only from the aesthetics but also the friction of the rock.

I'm most disappointed with whichever local decided he'd like to leave his mark. Unfortunately this sets a precedent for other rebellious youths. I just hope it doesn't end up looking like tha... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Jagged Wedge (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jul 15, 2012

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Comments: I doubt chopped in half, but thanks for the input. Had I known there was pro way in the back I would have ventured there. From my vantage point it appeared to be flat the whole way, and wasn't interested in a fall inside and the subsequent body wedge.

What sizes exist way back?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bongeater Buttress : Bongeater (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: Hard and varried! Wish I could have gotten it clean but it demands endurance. Managed to fit a #4 at the lower portion of the OW and then a #5 at the very top, on which I fell and weighted numerous times. Definitely worth doing and trying again for the clean ascent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: I took this same fall. But didn't get as low as the chicken heads.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Comfort Zone (5.9-)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 31, 2012

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Comments: Seeing the bolt, I took the right "ear" variation. Topping out to the left looked way run out. The friction moves over to the ear are not bad.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden
By: Charlie S When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: The proper coordinates are: 44.1269, -73.9603. The positive 73.9603 throws you into the wrong hemisphere.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom West (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: Second pitch is the best. Typical LCC 5.7 difficulty. Avoids the traverses of standard Schoolroom. A very fun outing!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: Thank you for that clarification. I couldn't seem to make much sense out of the guidebook's topo.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 11, 2012

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Comments: Watch rope drag coming out of the overhang! While you might think the first overhang is the crux, it's not. Put decent runners on it or you'll regret it 10 feet later.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Burner (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: To approach this crack, walk around back (to the top of the Bong Eater buttress) and then work your way up and left (west) near a tree where this climb starts.


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