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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 623
Total Points: 1,052
Last Year: 322
Last 30 Days: 31
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 1012 | Routes 20 | Areas 4 | Photos 133 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 124 | Posts 217 | Stars 409 | Ratings 104
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

So close, but still not close enough.

So close, but still not close enough.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

The top of the roof is the crux.

The top of the roof is the crux.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Rappelling off the top.

Rappelling off the top.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Spiderman from the side.  Unsuccessful attempt.

Spiderman from the side. Unsuccessful attempt.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

End of the first pitch of Jackie

End of the first pitch of Jackie

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Dec 15, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the history! FA info added.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The start is sequential but definitely 11a. Protects well and has a brilliant finish!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Dave. If I understand correctly then, the climber is on Bone Crack in this case? Kind of funny to have a climb called "Drew's Corner/Dihedral" which goes up a face, but stranger things have happened!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There appears to be some confusion as to the location of Bone Crack and Drew's Corner. Drew's corner description clearly says "one bolt and gear" which this route fits. However, the line drawn in the guidebook seems to indicate that this arching crack is Bone Crack. The line drawn for Drew's Corner seems to be going straight up the face.

Based on descriptions and shared anchors, I'd speculate that this is indeed Drew's Corner, with Bone Crack over to the left a few more feet.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Twinkie (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Another vote for doing all 3 pitches. Stellar! Fantastic climbing the whole way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : The Traditionalist (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Patina Atoll (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So good! Every crux was memorable and required some element of thinking.

You don't need gear for the top if you don't want to haul it. Once you get off of the rib, there's about 30' to the next bolt before chains, but the climbing is probably around 5.4.

However, the space between bolts #2 and #3 is...spacious!


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Snakepit : Sega (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The Goss guidebook suggests 5.11a. I'd go at 5.10+...ish. A few interesting moves but nothing in the 5.11 territory. Feet are nice and sticky.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.

BETA ALERT:

The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Detroit Muscle (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route could benefit from another bolt at the second roof. Or is natural protection supposed to be placed here? The climbing above isn't that bad, but you're in ground-fall territory before reaching the next bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : E Street (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After finally getting the redpoint, I'd agree. This is a great route and isn't that strenuous on a high friction day. Quality stemming!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: I found this stout for a 5.9. A surprise, given that some of the other routes at Asbury feel soft. The moves are good but make sure your gear is too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Errant Edge (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A climb most suited for a cold day. Interesting moves the whole way.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Unknown 15 feet R of light ... (5.11-)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is a lot of fun and great practice for the size!

But 2 stars because the rock quality at the top is questionable. Pulled off a large piece...have your belayer stand to climber's right for the final moves.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Eagle Rock : Eagle Crack (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It's so good! Probably mostly 5.9 with a distinct 5.10a crux and maybe a few other smattered in there but not as obvious. Protects well and incredibly fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I succumbed to the tick fever today. Would be interested in hearing how others did the crux. I eventually worked out the crux sequence after the fact, but wow, is it burly! Will have to go back for the RP.

Video of my attempt here (most of it is played at 16x with the exception of the fall):



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