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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Charlie S
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Point Rank: # 608
Total Points: 1,079
Last Year: 295
Last 30 Days: 24
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charlie S been climbing?










Contributions


All 1037 | Routes 21 | Areas 4 | Photos 136 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 126 | Posts 226 | Stars 419 | Ratings 104
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The crack to the lower right is the top of the 5.1...

The crack to the lower right is the top of the 5.10 TR climb "Toiling Men." Since I didn't climb it, I won't post a description. Oh yeah, you can also camp up there.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Right of Ladder

May 29, 2008

Right Buttress from Left Buttress

Right Buttress from Left Buttress

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Right of Ladder

May 29, 2008

The top of Pond View Slab

The top of Pond View Slab

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Pond View Slab

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain Pond from Pond View Slab

Crane Mountain Pond from Pond View Slab

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

Crane Mountain Pond in the morning.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

Crane Mountain from Crane Mountain Pond.

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Crane Mountain

May 29, 2008

So close, but still not close enough.

So close, but still not close enough.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

The top of the roof is the crux.

The top of the roof is the crux.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Rappelling off the top.

Rappelling off the top.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

Spiderman from the side.  Unsuccessful attempt.

Spiderman from the side. Unsuccessful attempt.

NY : Little Falls : ... : Spiderman (5.11d)

Dec 15, 2007

End of the first pitch of Jackie

End of the first pitch of Jackie

Charlie S : Climbing Pictures

Dec 15, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Party Mix (5.10b PG13)
By: Charlie S When: May 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure why this doesn't have more stars, but it is a fantastically good line on less-than-vertical rock with thin edging, hand-foot matching, and mantling up perfect granite features. The cruxes are certainly don't blow it, but if you're controlled you won't have a problem.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Southern Rock Opera (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A long approach and descent bookend this incredible climb. Heavy on the #0.3s! The climb also take nuts but your second will hate you for it.

Strenuous and sustained with varying crack shapes. Read: a myriad of techniques are required to make the ascent and it's not over until you make the final step on to the ledge.

The first 10-15' are inviting and protect well to get you out of ledge fall zone.

Definitely worth the effort but save it for a cooler day.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Catharsis (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the history! FA info added.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The start is sequential but definitely 11a. Protects well and has a brilliant finish!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Dave. If I understand correctly then, the climber is on Bone Crack in this case? Kind of funny to have a climb called "Drew's Corner/Dihedral" which goes up a face, but stranger things have happened!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There appears to be some confusion as to the location of Bone Crack and Drew's Corner. Drew's corner description clearly says "one bolt and gear" which this route fits. However, the line drawn in the guidebook seems to indicate that this arching crack is Bone Crack. The line drawn for Drew's Corner seems to be going straight up the face.

Based on descriptions and shared anchors, I'd speculate that this is indeed Drew's Corner, with Bone Crack over to the left a few more feet.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Twinkie (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: Another vote for doing all 3 pitches. Stellar! Fantastic climbing the whole way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : The Traditionalist (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Patina Atoll (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So good! Every crux was memorable and required some element of thinking.

You don't need gear for the top if you don't want to haul it. Once you get off of the rib, there's about 30' to the next bolt before chains, but the climbing is probably around 5.4.

However, the space between bolts #2 and #3 is...spacious!


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : The Snakepit : Sega (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The Goss guidebook suggests 5.11a. I'd go at 5.10+...ish. A few interesting moves but nothing in the 5.11 territory. Feet are nice and sticky.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Charlie S When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.

BETA ALERT:

The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Detroit Muscle (5.12b)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route could benefit from another bolt at the second roof. Or is natural protection supposed to be placed here? The climbing above isn't that bad, but you're in ground-fall territory before reaching the next bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : E Street (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Dec 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: After finally getting the redpoint, I'd agree. This is a great route and isn't that strenuous on a high friction day. Quality stemming!


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