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Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Slot, Indian Creek.


Member Since: Aug 23, 2007
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Charlie S


Point Rank: # 764
Total Points: 810
Last Year: 326
Last 30 Days: 9
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 792 | Routes 16 | Areas 4 | Photos 98 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 97 | Posts 169 | Stars 317 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Devil Tree (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: I stayed off of this route for a long time because of the comments and reputation. Today I got on it, and found it to be an enjoyable line, though committing the whole way.

The starting crack lends itself to a solid cam and then a nut/constriction placement only a foot higher. Given the texture (smooth), the nut was probably the better piece.

The route is sustained and has 3 distinct cruxes. Each one ends with a "jug," some better than others. The final mantle is sure to make you think car... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall : Photo
By: Charlie S When: May 17, 2014

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Comments: These are the routes whose location I am sure of. There are a few others but I don't want to lead anyone astray.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Stormy Resurrection (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: This climb has a little of everything! Found the aforementioned gear to be right on.

The Ruckman guidebook only gives this 1 of out 3 stars, but the MP consensus 3 out of 4 is definitely more on target. Get on it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 9th Street : That's a Noyce Rock (5.7)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: My vote for a name is "That's a Noyce Rock."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Hefe Weissen (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Gear for the not-so-solid-on-jams types:

2 #1's
2 #2's
3 #3's
2 #4's

Longer than it looks. The fists are interesting because of the dihedral.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Water Dog (5.11c)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Fun, but chossy roof. Make sure your belayer isn't standing too close to the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Bad Day at Black Rocks (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: After clipping the first bolt, move left. Going to the right puts you on chossy rock (which broke on me).

Sparse gear unless you can hang on to one pad edges while working with small wires. Good holds can be found for rests but do not provide reasonable protection.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Tree Crack Area : Tree Crack (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Climbs like a face climb with the crack for protection.


Location: Charlie S : Climbing Pictures : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Thanks! Photo taken by Sean Smith.

https://www.facebook.com/sasmithphotography


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Charlie S When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: Fell off of the second bolt several times today. It held. Can't say it looked the best, but it did hold.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Bring a number of 0.75's for the final section. I brought 3 and placed two. I'm also a total chicken on sandstone lieback.

If you're light on the 3's, you can coax a #4 in on the starting 30 feet. A handful of 1's, 4-5 #2s, 1 #0.5, and 3-4 #3's.

A nice long route. A 70m will get you back down to the starting ledge with length to spare.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Tequila Sunrise (5.10d)
By: Charlie S When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: A curious rattly-fingers starting crux leads to glorious jamming all the way to the top. Do it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: If only one wasn't so exhausted from the three approach pitches!

Seriously, if these were the first and second pitches straight off of the ground, there would be a line a mile long every weekend. A very worthy climb with fun moves.

I used singles in every size from #0.5-#5, except #2 which I used 2 of.

A 2nd #3 might have been nice, but not necessary.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Only Human Var. (5.9)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: This seemed harder than Plasma, but probably because it is sustained.

Cool chimney feature. I placed a #1 in the far back and up high with a double-length runner. After that it was tricky feet to reach the chicken head and then regain the lieback section of the crack.

Watch the groove at the very top as you transition to the slab. It will trap a rope.

The slab above is spicy. Have fun!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Plasma (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: Found this route to be a one-move wonder. Although you can get two cams in at the very start of the undercling, you're still in ankle tweaking territory until your feet get established 5 feet off the ledge.

Once you're on the diorite, it's a cake walk past there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Coffin Roof (5.12) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Wow, 5.12 in a swami belt! Hardcore!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheels on Fire Direct (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Sure, you can layback, but creative jamming and footwork can go a long way too.

The gear at the crux is awesome. Go for it! The bottom half is standard LCC flaring butt crack. But there are a few sections which take nuts very well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Naked and Dead (5.10 R) : Photo
By: Charlie S When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Cool picture, but this picture is associated with The Naked and the Dead Variation (5.11)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Coyne Crack (5.11d)
By: Charlie S When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: A totally awesome climb.

I got on this hoping to push myself since 5.11d is clearly out of my onsight or even single fall range. No, multiple falls were taken. But the great thing about this crack is that it protects well.

A lesson in pain tolerance and endurance (for us mere mortals who are still putzing around in the 5.10 range). I'm not sure the complaints about it being too short are warranted; it was plenty long for me!

A few notes:
1, approach from The Thumb gully, rope up ... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Splitter (5.11b)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Awesome climb! Get on it!

The gear listed may be a little excessive. I used singles of BD #0.3-#0.75 (plus 1 yellow and 1 red alien), 3 BD #1s, 1 BD #2, two nuts below the crux, and slung a patina dinner plate.

While climbing, I was wishing I had the blue alien. In hindsight, I'm glad I didn't have it since it would have pulled the rope too far into the crack. The crux itself isn't that bad. It's the post-crux pump that will get you!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.10-)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Found this entertaining, but definitely hard. Not a gimme. Thought it'd be cleaner, but nope! Still needs some more ascents to clean it up!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Airtime (5.10c)
By: Charlie S When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: An amusing climb. Enough fixed gear on it to almost make it a "sport" climb. Fun and airy with a crux that will have you thinking, but probably not going on the repeat list.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: Do it!

Used 1 #4 and 1 #5 for the top.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Strawberry Jam (5.10)
By: Charlie S When: Aug 17, 2013

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Comments: A most peculiar start that's not easy to figure out by looking at it.

Beta Alert!


Go to the right of the bolt, work your way up, find a hidden crimp to reach the crack with your left hand.

Don't go to the left of the bolt. Tried that variation several times at full extension and took several 10-footers.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall
By: Charlie S When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: These are below Lake Mary, and perhaps a decent distance below.

The approach is not straight forward if you are intercepted by the girls' camp's counselors. We were about to set foot in the woods when a counselor redirected us. Not entirely sure where to go, we ended up going far east, up a ski run, and then iso-lining back to the cliff.

If you take that route, you'll be bushwhacking. You want a narrow, talus gulley.

If you can hop into the woods below the girls' camp and shoot straight up... more >>


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