Comments: Super fun route. Definitely worth doing if your at the wall.
Beta Spoiler: Stay low on the traverse all the way over to where it merges into the next line. Its tempting to try and cut off the corner of the traverse but you'll quickly find yourself on a blank face.
Comments: Definitely do this climb if you're in the area (and have a 70m with 15 draws). If you're tall like me, it may feel more 10a-ish. It finishes on a reachy overhung corner that could feel 10b/c if you're short or pumped out. The moves are really fun and the rock quality great.
Comments: Be aware there is a bolted variation at the start of the third pitch. This variation goes straight up from the anchor at the top of the second pitch, while 'do it for doug' route continues on the face to the right of the ledge.
I tried to climb this route for the first time a couple weeks ago and ended up on this variation pitch by accident. Anybody have any additional info about this variation? I turned around after the third bolt after it became apparent I was no longer on a 10c route (fir... more >>