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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon

Point Rank: # 178
Total Points: 2,923
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 1
54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1939 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 383 | Posts 356 | Stars 788 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: Not the same route. Ytrid=dirty backward. Reference paragraph 4 of the route description.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 1, 2009

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Comments: We were racing to Table Ledge. He won.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Tao of Choy (5.7+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: Thanks...but we ended up wimping out and going to Paradise Forks instead. It was pretty damn hot even up there last weekend!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Which way does this route face? It looks shady from the photos. We were thinking of getting a super early start and climbing it this Sunday, is that crazy?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Left Hand Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone know what gear is required for the upper part of Triangulate (the route left of GAC Rulz)? Wouldn't want to drag my entire rack up there for what is probably just a few placements.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: Are the traversing pitches on this route safe to follow for a second who doesn't lead and who will be at or close to her limit on 5.8, but is otherwise comfortable with the "long multi-pitch in a remote setting" routine?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: Does anybody know for sure at what point in the spring the ranch denies access along the ranch road?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Billionaire Boys Club (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 1, 2009

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Comments: I disagree with Wes about the protection. Textbook cam placements protect the crux, but they are in somewhat questionable rock--could pull out and the bolt would not keep you off the ground at that point. But maybe I have not been climbing enough lately to be objective, who knows.

Also, FYI, this route is right at 100 ft, rather than 80 as indicated above and in the guidebook.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2009

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Comments: I'm a little confused...I think this looks like the other side of N.Chasm View, but backwards. In other words, I can't find the Scenic Cruise in this photo. Nevertheless I like it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Thanks! Heading out to the West side now....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 25, 2008

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Comments: I'm planning a trip into the Stronghold for Wed-Fri, unfortunately the weather looks terrible and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the road into the west Stronghold, where we were planning to climb (i.e., if we get in there and then endure torrential downpours, will the drive out become problematic for our 2wd car?).

I'm assuming the east Stronghold road would be a better alternative but having never been to either, I just don't know--any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: I'm going to be very disappointed if a TR isn't forthcoming on piquaclimber.com!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : The Elephant's Trunk (5.7)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: Based on the comments about the descent described above, I'd have to recommend the east side descent (described under B-Cubed). The east side descent has the distinct advantages of 1) requiring only one (60M) rope, 2) very low possiblity of stuck ropes (and would be very easy slab climbing to unstick them if need be), and 3) puts you on the ground very near your packs instead of having to go down, around the formation, and up again.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Southern Wall Left (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: I'd reiterate what Stan says about the crux being hard to protect. I backed off this pitch when I was 20 ft. above my last gear, unable to get anything in, unable to see any good placements up above, and right in the middle of 5.10 climbing at my limit. We had a fairly spartan backcountry rack, though. Some extra tricams, large hb offsets, or small offset cams (which neither of us owned anyway) could help, as the crack is more of a flared overlap.

Or being bold could help. I wasn't.

The clim... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: George, that's interesting. I'm not sure what you mean by "trouble". We did the 5.7 no pro chimney (an obvious feature), and it led directly to the 5.9R face pitch, described by Steve Levin above, and by the book. I thought that pitch was "trouble" in the sense that it was potentially dangerous, but it was on route and easy to find (and awesome climbing I might add).

How well did your variation protect? The existence of a less scary variant might make this route more attractive for me to re... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: Dean, I rapped this route with a 60 meter one time. One rap (I can't recall which as it was several years ago) took all the rope, but with a 70 you'll be able to do it comfortably.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 11, 2008

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Comments: Beautiful! Allen, where did you shoot this?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 8, 2008

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Comments: I've taken this same picture, from just down the ridge from where the route tops out. Easy to reach from the Boulder field too. It's great to be able to take such a spectacular photo without any shenanigans.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 9, 2007

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Comments: When I climbed this route we also didn't go to the overlap shown as belay #5. Instead, I traversed right lower and then went up to a set of bolts in the middle of nowhere (on the next pitch I continued up face climbing with no pro to belay #6 and then up the crack above). For me this was by far the scariest climbing on the route--over a hundred foot runout with absolutely no pro anywhere, with some 5.6/5.7 near the end. It is the one thing that gives me pause at the thought of doi... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: Phil,

I have no wish to continue the general debate further, and I certainly respect your opinion. From your other posts on this site you are clearly a guy who doesn't pull any punches when you have something to say, and under other circumstances that's very exciting for me to read when you are talking about, say, routes on the Painted Wall (loved your Southern Arete story), or things of that nature.

I will just address the one quote in question since it is still 'out there'. What Dean actua... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 28, 2006

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Comments: Phil,

I've frothed at the mouth plenty of times while posting on this site. It happens. I am not actually suggesting that Mr. Potter should sue you for libel.

But specifically, I take issue with your first comment (the second overall comment on this thread). You made this comment right after the climb became known, and certainly well in advance of any point at which all the facts could be considered "in". I think the derisive and offensive remarks directed at Mr. Potter in this comment are... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: Brad,

What kind of trust could possibly have existed between climbers and the NPS if all it takes, from the latter's perspective, is one (ultimately harmless) act on the part of a single climber to break it?

Let's say that we fully accept the concerns of the NPS regarding Dean's Delicate Arch climb. I still fail to see any reason why this should be an indictment of the climbing community as a whole....unless of course, we have something to hide.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: I have to agree with Ken. The hysteria about potential climbing closures that pervades all these comments is misplaced. Stop and think for a second about the NPS banning climbing throughout Arches (let alone in other parks as several have suggested!) because of one incident on the part of one climber, that did no damage to the resource and didn't result in a citation. That wouldn't be remotely reasonable; in fact, it would be outrageous. Which is why I don't think it will happen, wa... more >>


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