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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Total Points: 2,966
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 1909 | Routes 145 | Areas 27 | Photos 148 | Page Improvments | Comments 365 | Posts 343 | Stars 780 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 9, 2007

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Comments: When I climbed this route we also didn't go to the overlap shown as belay #5. Instead, I traversed right lower and then went up to a set of bolts in the middle of nowhere (on the next pitch I continued up face climbing with no pro to belay #6 and then up the crack above). For me this was by far the scariest climbing on the route--over a hundred foot runout with absolutely no pro anywhere, with some 5.6/5.7 near the end. It is the one thing that gives me pause at the thought of doi... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: Phil,

I have no wish to continue the general debate further, and I certainly respect your opinion. From your other posts on this site you are clearly a guy who doesn't pull any punches when you have something to say, and under other circumstances that's very exciting for me to read when you are talking about, say, routes on the Painted Wall (loved your Southern Arete story), or things of that nature.

I will just address the one quote in question since it is still 'out there'. What Dean actua... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 28, 2006

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Comments: Phil,

I've frothed at the mouth plenty of times while posting on this site. It happens. I am not actually suggesting that Mr. Potter should sue you for libel.

But specifically, I take issue with your first comment (the second overall comment on this thread). You made this comment right after the climb became known, and certainly well in advance of any point at which all the facts could be considered "in". I think the derisive and offensive remarks directed at Mr. Potter in this comment are... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: Brad,

What kind of trust could possibly have existed between climbers and the NPS if all it takes, from the latter's perspective, is one (ultimately harmless) act on the part of a single climber to break it?

Let's say that we fully accept the concerns of the NPS regarding Dean's Delicate Arch climb. I still fail to see any reason why this should be an indictment of the climbing community as a whole....unless of course, we have something to hide.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Charles Vernon When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: I have to agree with Ken. The hysteria about potential climbing closures that pervades all these comments is misplaced. Stop and think for a second about the NPS banning climbing throughout Arches (let alone in other parks as several have suggested!) because of one incident on the part of one climber, that did no damage to the resource and didn't result in a citation. That wouldn't be remotely reasonable; in fact, it would be outrageous. Which is why I don't think it will happen, wa... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12d)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 31, 2005

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Comments: What is going on with the editing around here?!

The complete removal of Spanky's comment makes this whole discussion kinda hard to follow for anyone who happens upon this in the future. He may have been a bit sarcastic, but it wasn't a personal attack and his comment was germane to the route description. If you must edit, why not just edit the part of the comment you don't like? This bizarre editing seems to be happening on half the route pages on this site now and many formerly interesting ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Second Buttress Tour (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 8, 2005

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Comments: AC, I did that pitch earlier this summer and it is not hard for 5.9; in fact I think Rossiter gives it 8 or 8+. There is reasonable gear every 10-15 feet, and the climbing is excellent (route finding is a bit tricky but nothing to worry about). I actually enjoyed it even more than the 5.9 corner on the next pitch, though that is also very good. We approached from Hesse-Ferguson, so I can't comment on the corner left of Culp.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 29, 2005

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Comments: In the photo below, the route starts not in the huge left-facing corner, but in the smaller corner a ways right (marked in the photo by a little red dot).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Spearhead : Iron Messiah (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 28, 2005

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Comments: The left-hand variation on the last pitch is definitely only 5.4 (not 5.10 as in the above description) if done correctly. There isn't any gear, but I found the climbing to be positive and the route-finding straightforward and would definitely recommend topping out. I'm confused by some of the comments here, especially Tony's.

The route as a whole was really good. Similar to Journey Home in the Black Canyon, but not as good, and with more chimneying.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 18, 2005

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Comments: I too would like to thank Myke and Ben for all their hard work, and for providing me with the opportunity to waste months of my life and ruin a reputation I didn't have.

BobD wrote:"Funny how Ivan can critique and [criticize] these new routes with the luxury of fixed protection in place. Doesn't matter if he use the gear or not, just knowing it is there and available makes it so much easier."

Bob, I'm glad to hear you say that. Kind of deflates the tired old argument that "if you don't like ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : No Lo Contendere (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 17, 2005

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Comments: I was fortunate enough to top-rope this route and I thought the rock and the moves, especially above the ramp halfway up, were excellent. It seemed like a real hidden gem in that regard. I don't have any desire to comment on the bolting, except to say I'm glad I wasn't leading.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Sunshine Dihedral (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 18, 2004

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Comments: Best route at the crag. Really fun, wild moves out the overhang, with an exciting juggy topout. This thing has good jams, a fair # of feet, and at the top, 2 cracks to use (also, gear is great). My partner doesn't usually lead gear routes harder than 10-, and he had no problems leading this. I don't think I'd upgrade it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Fever Dance (5.10c/d)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 18, 2004

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Comments: I was a bit surprised to find that the loose flake "in the crack" *is* the crack, for about 8 feet. This is not obvious until you commit to this section. I wouldn't want to test the gear here, although it might hold. There's also an incipient crack just left of this flake that would take a bomber small cam.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 6, 2004

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Comments: Also, Mike, I was curious if you had climbed the route previously (before any re- or retro-bolting), to compare the locations of the bolts.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 6, 2004

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Comments: I'm kinda curious if Ed Webster originally bolted all the way to the top of the Ear on the FA. His topo (above) would suggest so. I also remember reading a trip report by Gary Clark from a while back where the author described standing on the final pin and feeling an empty hole above. (When I did it I was too busy thrutching around and getting sand in my eyes to notice empty holes, if any). If so, I'm wondering if this truly is a case of retrobolting or not. Either way I'm kinda sad 'cause ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 29, 2004

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Comments: Edging shoes are really nice for this route, I think. The cracks are mostly thin hands/wide fingers, so you rely on mostly edges, and occasional toe-ins, for feet. There's also the crux traverse, which isn't crack climbing at all.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 15, 2004

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Comments: Joe, I more or less agree with you, except it's not all that clear to me why you make an exception for chipped holds. Personally (speaking in general terms), a bolted splitter would bother me more than a route with chipped holds. Not feeling argumentative--just curious.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 17, 2004

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Comments: Justin,

Check out my comments under the Saber rock page. Someone set up that anchor as a death trap last year--that's how we found it when we got to the top. We rearranged it and it was acceptable though certainly not great, but it doesn't surprise me that it blew off!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 8, 2004

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Comments: If you are at all unsure about the pro,I would recommend doing this route NOW (despite the heat). I did it again today and there are TWO bomber fixed pieces in the pin scar--a nut, and a very fixed #0 Metolius TCU.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 25, 2004

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Comments: I agree with Ross-this route is exciting, but did not seem terribly runout, at least compared to what I was expecting from the guidebooks. I led both 5.10 pitches, and didn't find either of them to be nearly as scary as Journey Home P1 (probably 'cause there's no potential to deck). However, after talking with Josh Janes, I believe there are 2 different ways to step out of the corner on the crux pitch. I stepped out at the first possible place, instead of continuing with the obvious chalked-u... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 25, 2004

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Comments: Ross is right--I once had to retreat from this route when my partner got spanked following the 2nd pitch roof (he actually ended up prussicking a few moves as I had backcleaned pro), seemed about ready to pass out, and refused to continue. It was something of an epic retreating with one rope! The point is, we thought he would be fine, as he had previously swapped leads on Escape Artist--but he wasn't even up to following this route due to the steep and sustained climbing! Having since complet... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Bill, Chris, Joe--For my part, I think you're all probably right. I was comparing this to other roofs of the same or easier ratings that I had done around the same time, and when D&T felt easier, I assumed it was because...it was! When I thought about it a little more (after submitting the above comment), I realized it was actually because, despite being a roof, the climbing on D&T fits my style and strengths more than on those other routes that I mention above. Of course, ratings are also so... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 28, 2004

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Comments: P.S. the #2 Camalot placement is the one visible in the third picture below.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 28, 2004

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Comments: The supposedly "bomber" #2 Camalot mentioned by Jason and Tom is behind a flake that flexes visibly when you tug on the cam--I feel virtually certain that this placement wouldn't hold! I don't think there's any worthwhile gear in the first 30 feet--I found this section much scarier than anything up high because of the groundfall potential on a borderline 5.10 move (please note, I'm not advocating for a bolt).

Top-5 route for Eldo! Every single move is good!


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