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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 167
Total Points: 2,953
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 3
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1923 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 148 | Page Improvements | Comments 373 | Posts 348 | Stars 782 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: It's just bizarre, and seems to set a really bad precedent. MP would barely exist if you removed all the routes that are already in guidebooks. Isn't the slogan, "beyond the guidebook"? It would be nice to have some explanation--I'm open to the possibility that we're missing something and there's a reasonable explanation. Perhaps it's as simple as (1) any contributor has the right to remove his or her submissions for whatever reason, and (2) everyone who contributed route descriptions here a... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 11, 2009

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Comments: Josh I don't know how much time you've spent in El Paso, but I take exception to that comment. It's a great place if you get to know it. I'd still be there if UTEP had a law school, though I'm plenty happy in Tucson. Juarez had a lot going for it too, before the war.

The desert and other wilderness areas around there are amazing as well. Equal to what's around Tucson IMO (not necessarily for climbing).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 29, 2009

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Comments: I had a great time at Sweet Rock, but this route was the glaring exception. The middle section is overhanging choss, and it wouldn't surprise me if anything from brick-sized chunks to an entire section of the wall came off despite the best efforts of a careful climber. In my opinion, the route is dangerous and likely can't be made safe.

This comment is not intended as a criticism (overall, I think the bolters have done a great job on this cliff), but rather as a warning to future climbers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 29, 2009

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Comments: We did just the 1st pitch after climbing Muttonhead. I thought it was one of the best pitches I've climbed so far in Cochise, and is definitely worth doing on its own if you're looking for a bit more climbing at the end of the day. A 70 got us down comfortably and a 60 would probably work with care.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Wow! How much simul-climbing did you do?


Location: Dustin Clelen : Posing and Spraying : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: I love how snow highlights all of the Yellow Wall area's wonderful flakes and little ledges.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : B Cubed (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 15, 2009

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Comments: To provide balance to Jimbo's comment, I thought this was a worthwhile route. I suppose it's not a "classic", but the rock was much better than I expected (I didn't really notice any rotten rock), and with the added bolts and anchors, the protection is quite reasonable. It's a bit ledgey, but the actual climbing moves are really fun.

If you've done some of the other 10- and under routes in this canyon and enjoyed them, then definitely consider this route. If Elephantiasis is really that much... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Balin Goes to Hollywood (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 14, 2009

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Comments: The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected al... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Attila's Thumb : Mogul Emperor (5.11- PG13) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: This photo really captures the magic of the canyon lands. I miss 'em.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: Do you think there's rope-cutting potential if you fall below the roof? The lip gets pretty sharp in places.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: I'm working to reverse the beam, sir!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: Cool route. This is the climb for everyone who did Crimson Chrysalis in Red Rocks and complained that it was overbolted.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: No worries, I mostly posted because my partners and I thought the whole thing was pretty hilarious. I was traversing past the bolt and still somehow trying to convince myself that the thing was 5.9 and that there must be some huge hidden jugs over there!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Good topo, except that it omits "Rehearsal of Fortune". Not being familiar w/the area, I mistakenly though Rehearsal was the English Breakfast Crack, and tried to lead it. I realized the error of my ways rather quickly!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: Not the same route. Ytrid=dirty backward. Reference paragraph 4 of the route description.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 1, 2009

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Comments: We were racing to Table Ledge. He won.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Tao of Choy (5.7+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: Thanks...but we ended up wimping out and going to Paradise Forks instead. It was pretty damn hot even up there last weekend!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Which way does this route face? It looks shady from the photos. We were thinking of getting a super early start and climbing it this Sunday, is that crazy?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Left Hand Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone know what gear is required for the upper part of Triangulate (the route left of GAC Rulz)? Wouldn't want to drag my entire rack up there for what is probably just a few placements.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: Are the traversing pitches on this route safe to follow for a second who doesn't lead and who will be at or close to her limit on 5.8, but is otherwise comfortable with the "long multi-pitch in a remote setting" routine?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: Does anybody know for sure at what point in the spring the ranch denies access along the ranch road?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Billionaire Boys Club (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 1, 2009

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Comments: I disagree with Wes about the protection. Textbook cam placements protect the crux, but they are in somewhat questionable rock--could pull out and the bolt would not keep you off the ground at that point. But maybe I have not been climbing enough lately to be objective, who knows.

Also, FYI, this route is right at 100 ft, rather than 80 as indicated above and in the guidebook.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2009

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Comments: I'm a little confused...I think this looks like the other side of N.Chasm View, but backwards. In other words, I can't find the Scenic Cruise in this photo. Nevertheless I like it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Thanks! Heading out to the West side now....


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