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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 28 mins ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,962
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 2
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1913 | Routes 145 | Areas 27 | Photos 148 | Page Improvments | Comments 367 | Posts 345 | Stars 780 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : B Cubed (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 15, 2009

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Comments: To provide balance to Jimbo's comment, I thought this was a worthwhile route. I suppose it's not a "classic", but the rock was much better than I expected (I didn't really notice any rotten rock), and with the added bolts and anchors, the protection is quite reasonable. It's a bit ledgey, but the actual climbing moves are really fun.

If you've done some of the other 10- and under routes in this canyon and enjoyed them, then definitely consider this route. If Elephantiasis is really that much... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Balin Goes to Hollywood (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 14, 2009

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Comments: The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected al... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Attila's Thumb : Mogul Emperor (5.11- PG13) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: This photo really captures the magic of the canyon lands. I miss 'em.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: Do you think there's rope-cutting potential if you fall below the roof? The lip gets pretty sharp in places.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 2, 2009

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Comments: I'm working to reverse the beam, sir!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: Cool route. This is the climb for everyone who did Crimson Chrysalis in Red Rocks and complained that it was overbolted.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: No worries, I mostly posted because my partners and I thought the whole thing was pretty hilarious. I was traversing past the bolt and still somehow trying to convince myself that the thing was 5.9 and that there must be some huge hidden jugs over there!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 5, 2009

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Comments: Good topo, except that it omits "Rehearsal of Fortune". Not being familiar w/the area, I mistakenly though Rehearsal was the English Breakfast Crack, and tried to lead it. I realized the error of my ways rather quickly!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Ytrid Deed (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: Not the same route. Ytrid=dirty backward. Reference paragraph 4 of the route description.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 1, 2009

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Comments: We were racing to Table Ledge. He won.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : The Tao of Choy (5.7+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: Thanks...but we ended up wimping out and going to Paradise Forks instead. It was pretty damn hot even up there last weekend!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Earth Angel (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Which way does this route face? It looks shady from the photos. We were thinking of getting a super early start and climbing it this Sunday, is that crazy?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Left Hand Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone know what gear is required for the upper part of Triangulate (the route left of GAC Rulz)? Wouldn't want to drag my entire rack up there for what is probably just a few placements.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: Are the traversing pitches on this route safe to follow for a second who doesn't lead and who will be at or close to her limit on 5.8, but is otherwise comfortable with the "long multi-pitch in a remote setting" routine?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: Does anybody know for sure at what point in the spring the ranch denies access along the ranch road?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Billionaire Boys Club (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 1, 2009

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Comments: I disagree with Wes about the protection. Textbook cam placements protect the crux, but they are in somewhat questionable rock--could pull out and the bolt would not keep you off the ground at that point. But maybe I have not been climbing enough lately to be objective, who knows.

Also, FYI, this route is right at 100 ft, rather than 80 as indicated above and in the guidebook.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2009

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Comments: I'm a little confused...I think this looks like the other side of N.Chasm View, but backwards. In other words, I can't find the Scenic Cruise in this photo. Nevertheless I like it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Thanks! Heading out to the West side now....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 25, 2008

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Comments: I'm planning a trip into the Stronghold for Wed-Fri, unfortunately the weather looks terrible and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the road into the west Stronghold, where we were planning to climb (i.e., if we get in there and then endure torrential downpours, will the drive out become problematic for our 2wd car?).

I'm assuming the east Stronghold road would be a better alternative but having never been to either, I just don't know--any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Journey Through Mirkwood (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: I'm going to be very disappointed if a TR isn't forthcoming on piquaclimber.com!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : The Elephant's Trunk (5.7)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: Based on the comments about the descent described above, I'd have to recommend the east side descent (described under B-Cubed). The east side descent has the distinct advantages of 1) requiring only one (60M) rope, 2) very low possiblity of stuck ropes (and would be very easy slab climbing to unstick them if need be), and 3) puts you on the ground very near your packs instead of having to go down, around the formation, and up again.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Southern Wall Left (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: I'd reiterate what Stan says about the crux being hard to protect. I backed off this pitch when I was 20 ft. above my last gear, unable to get anything in, unable to see any good placements up above, and right in the middle of 5.10 climbing at my limit. We had a fairly spartan backcountry rack, though. Some extra tricams, large hb offsets, or small offset cams (which neither of us owned anyway) could help, as the crack is more of a flared overlap.

Or being bold could help. I wasn't.

The clim... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: George, that's interesting. I'm not sure what you mean by "trouble". We did the 5.7 no pro chimney (an obvious feature), and it led directly to the 5.9R face pitch, described by Steve Levin above, and by the book. I thought that pitch was "trouble" in the sense that it was potentially dangerous, but it was on route and easy to find (and awesome climbing I might add).

How well did your variation protect? The existence of a less scary variant might make this route more attractive for me to re... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: Dean, I rapped this route with a 60 meter one time. One rap (I can't recall which as it was several years ago) took all the rope, but with a 70 you'll be able to do it comfortably.


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