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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon

Point Rank: # 179
Total Points: 2,922
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 2
54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1937 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 381 | Posts 356 | Stars 788 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Viking Soared (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: This route is quite contrived (hence only 1 star) but nevertheless extremely fun and well worth doing if you're at Sun Spots. The top section is remarkably airy.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Marcy, Geir, or anyone--

Assuming the road is in the same condition it was a month ago, would you say that a subaru with 4wd could make it in and back. Or is *high* clearance a necessity?

How far of a hike is it to the climbs from above the "branched switchback"? Is that the same spot as the "2wd parking area" that Geir describes?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: Access note: we ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there wit... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : English Breakfast Crack (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: There, that should do it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Clingon (V3)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: I actually didn't rate these V0. Back in the early days of the site, I think it was possible to rate them with the B-scale, and I vaguely remember rating them B1 (I didn't "get" the V-scale back then and in some ways still don't, but I understand it well enough to know that these are not V0!). Someone must have changed the rating to the V-scale during one of the upgrades.

Edit: I just changed my rating of this and Jaws to V3 which I believe are their consensus ratings in the guides, though I c... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : North Face (5.10c R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: [edit] Went back up again, couldn't find the #3 camalot, but came back with some thoughts about the route:

One way to improve the quality of the route is to do the (somewhat hidden) original 6th pitch instead of the variation that most seem to do (that EFR describes above). Having now done both, I'd say the original line is some of the best and cleanest climbing on the route and adds another 5.10 pitch. To get to the original, belay lower and to the right at the end of traverse. The thin ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: I'm almost positive that's Blood Brother-we tried to pick it out (using Kerry's guide) when doing Dem Bones and that's the only feature that makes sense. Looks really cool. Great photo by the way.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: J, I'm pretty sure Quentin is Navajo (I'm sure if he reads this he'll speak for himself), so he might be situated a bit differently from the rest of us.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 6, 2010

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Comments: Ken, Mt. Lemmon is one of our "sky islands" that rises far above the Sonoran desert and is therefore a safe haven from the epidemic--the ORGY--of beheading that's been going on around here. But I might add that the desert regions themselves are getting safer--Jan Brewer has did everything she can.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: AngeMtn-I don't know anything about the Beanfest myself, but you might try posing your question here.

Jean--I think May is pretty hot for Cochise. You can do it if you have high heat tolerance, chase shade, get up really early, etc. Heck, some of the area's main route developers climb there all summer. It's a bit much for me personally. You might consider substituting Paradise Forks for Cochise. Otherwise... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: I agree with Derek. Great climb with lots of variety, especially if you do the arete finish. A little spice on the first pitch too!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: I totally agree with Eli. This route must have taken hours of loud hammering right next to a very popular tourist trail. Isn't this basically how bolting got banned in the Flatirons?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 18, 2010

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Comments: This is actually a four-pitch route starting from the left end of Pine Tree ledge. Pitches 1 & 2 as shown in SQ II are fun (particularly the arching 5.9 corner), mildly spicy, and can be combined. They are not as good as Quick Death, but worth doing if you've already done that route. A light rack to a #2 friend is sufficient for these pitches. After the crux, the last pitch heads slightly up and right past several bolts, finishing with a fun, albeit contrived roof to the chickenheads.
... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 12, 2010

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Comments: I'm curious what routes these are, does anyone know? Great photo!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 7, 2010

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Comments: I thought P5 had pretty good pro, but I really didnít want to fallóyouíre slinging everything long, the rope is running around several corners, your belayer canít see you, etc. Could be a long, weird fall. However, I think the danger could be eliminated by setting a belay after the initial traverse (i.e., on P4, clip the anchor and continue into the traverse from the P4 corner)óthere is a decent stance and really good hand-size pro for this. Iíll probably do it that way next time.

Great adve... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 1, 2010

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Comments: Hi, do any of you New Mexicans know anything about camping possibilities on the national forest land west of El Malpais N.M.? I.e., how's the accessibility (we'd be arriving pretty late), is it sketchy, etc? We're just looking for a place to crash quickly on the way to Albuquerque.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : B Cubed (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Jeff Mayhew told me that when they added the bolts, they also pulled off a mountain's worth of loose rock. I'm sure it isn't as good as those other routes (which look a lot steeper), but you might like it now, Jimbo. Hell, I liked it enough to do it again, I'll do it with you :)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Williams/ Sycamore Canyon : *Paradise Forks : The Obsidian Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Traversing around the amphitheater above Silver Pond is great fun. There were lots of water snakes!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : B Cubed (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 17, 2010

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Comments: Steve, sounds like you might have missed a bolt on P1. My partner led it and definitely found three. Two were new. They are all a bit hard to spot. At any rate, P1 is no harder than 5.6 if you go the right way, and shouldn't keep a 5.10 back-country climber off this climb.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: Regarding the descent from the top of Torreon--there appears to be another tree you can rappel from which results in far less elevation loss and thus far less annoying gully ascending. We saw the tree, w/slings, from near the top of the gully as we scrambled up. To get to it, you would follow the ridge formed by the top of Torreon up to around the 'summit,' where it cliffs out. The rap would put you at a level where you can traverse over into the gully just below the fixed rope. Next time (a... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: You can get to the base with a 70, but the rap from the top of the tower takes all the rope--maybe add slings to the anchor. Or, rap the route and leave an anchor to pick up on the way up--just make sure to rap climbers' right from the top of the tower. This could be done with a single 60 meter rope.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: Even if you don't have a 70, there's no need to drag 2 ropes up the route. From the lower summit, it is exactly a 60 meter rap to the saddle, so stash your second rope there before the climb, have the first person rap the single strand and then tie the second rope on.

Great adventurous route! Crux seemed harder to me than anything on Coyote Tower, but the 5.9+ grade is perfect for bizarre awkward cruxes like this.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Does Brad have something to hide? Or is he protecting one of you? Did you guys glue the chopper flake?!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Seems like "dirtfall" is a more apt description. Amazing how little of that is actually big blocks like you normally get when a section of cliff collapses.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: Thanks Brad. I figured it was something like that--I was really just trying to get your attention to ask why you never wrote a trip report about Journey Through Mirkwood.


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