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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1909 | Routes 145 | Areas 27 | Photos 148 | Page Improvments | Comments 365 | Posts 343 | Stars 780 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : B Cubed (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 17, 2010

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Comments: Steve, sounds like you might have missed a bolt on P1. My partner led it and definitely found three. Two were new. They are all a bit hard to spot. At any rate, P1 is no harder than 5.6 if you go the right way, and shouldn't keep a 5.10 back-country climber off this climb.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: Regarding the descent from the top of Torreon--there appears to be another tree you can rappel from which results in far less elevation loss and thus far less annoying gully ascending. We saw the tree, w/slings, from near the top of the gully as we scrambled up. To get to it, you would follow the ridge formed by the top of Torreon up to around the 'summit,' where it cliffs out. The rap would put you at a level where you can traverse over into the gully just below the fixed rope. Next time (a... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: You can get to the base with a 70, but the rap from the top of the tower takes all the rope--maybe add slings to the anchor. Or, rap the route and leave an anchor to pick up on the way up--just make sure to rap climbers' right from the top of the tower. This could be done with a single 60 meter rope.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: Even if you don't have a 70, there's no need to drag 2 ropes up the route. From the lower summit, it is exactly a 60 meter rap to the saddle, so stash your second rope there before the climb, have the first person rap the single strand and then tie the second rope on.

Great adventurous route! Crux seemed harder to me than anything on Coyote Tower, but the 5.9+ grade is perfect for bizarre awkward cruxes like this.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Does Brad have something to hide? Or is he protecting one of you? Did you guys glue the chopper flake?!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Seems like "dirtfall" is a more apt description. Amazing how little of that is actually big blocks like you normally get when a section of cliff collapses.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: Thanks Brad. I figured it was something like that--I was really just trying to get your attention to ask why you never wrote a trip report about Journey Through Mirkwood.


Location: Guy H. : Black Canyon : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 7, 2010

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Comments: Great photo of the splitter crack, you should post it on the route page! That's a tough section he's in the middle of there.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Barks Canyon Wall : Stroke it Gently (5.10a PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: The upper pitches are definitely confusing; here's some beta if you want it. On pitch 3, I went up and left from the belay to a diagonal thin crack, climbed straight above that almost to another thin crack which looked chossy, and then on instinct stepped around the corner to the right to find a hidden, old bolt. Then, it's steep fun pockets to the belay ledge. This pitch is only about 5.7/8 but there is very little worthwhile protection. The last pitch does not move into the chimne... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: Forgive my ignorance (I'm not much of an aid climber), but was it not feasible simply to tension traverse from the nest of gear in the pod to to the good crack?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 16, 2010

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Comments: If you like bad rock you can get your fix in a million places in So. Az, but why put up a moderate sport route through crap rock? At least one person has already gotten hurt as a result, and it has the potential to be a lot worse.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Andy's Hat (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: What happened?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Pusch Peak
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 16, 2010

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Comments: Alas, it looks like you're right. We had no idea. We didn't see any signs at the trailhead or along the trail, although we weren't looking for them either.

This would apply to the Linda Vista area as well. Does anyone know if it applies to Table Mountain or Leviathan Dome?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Pusch Peak : Pusch Push (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2010

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Comments: Kerry calls P2 the "finger stinger." I found this appropriate, as my right index finger went numb midway through the pitch, and still feels funny a day later.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Santa Rita Mountains : Elephant Head : Rocktology (5.10+ R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 31, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Thanks for putting this climb up, Jimbo. I had a great time. I recommend this climb to anyone looking for a good adventure, especially now that Mendoza may be closed (fingers crossed). In fact, this was a last minute substitute for us after learning about Mendoza on Friday night.

With a really good scrubbing and maybe a high pressure hose for the bird shit on P2, this would faintly resemble a classic. We cleaned a bit of loose stuff on rappel (mainly a huge loose pillar that you had to... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: I was happy to have one (old #5 camalot works too). You can walk it for a long ways.

On the other hand, I think Dave Baker had one #11 hex on the first ascent.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Table Dome : Wily Javelina (5.9 PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: The P4 bulge that Dustin mentions is awesome climbing but a fall from there might hurt (onto a ledge)--one of the few, if not the only places where the run-outs are not on easier terrain.

On the last two pitches, I found 3 bolts on P5, and then went straight up on P6 and was surprised to find 2 more bolts, each of which I almost climbed past (they really weren't necessary as there were heads all over the place). This finish was completely independent of Table for Two and these pitches were f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 13, 2009

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Comments: It's just bizarre, and seems to set a really bad precedent. MP would barely exist if you removed all the routes that are already in guidebooks. Isn't the slogan, "beyond the guidebook"? It would be nice to have some explanation--I'm open to the possibility that we're missing something and there's a reasonable explanation. Perhaps it's as simple as (1) any contributor has the right to remove his or her submissions for whatever reason, and (2) everyone who contributed route descriptions here a... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 11, 2009

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Comments: Josh I don't know how much time you've spent in El Paso, but I take exception to that comment. It's a great place if you get to know it. I'd still be there if UTEP had a law school, though I'm plenty happy in Tucson. Juarez had a lot going for it too, before the war.

The desert and other wilderness areas around there are amazing as well. Equal to what's around Tucson IMO (not necessarily for climbing).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 29, 2009

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Comments: I had a great time at Sweet Rock, but this route was the glaring exception. The middle section is overhanging choss, and it wouldn't surprise me if anything from brick-sized chunks to an entire section of the wall came off despite the best efforts of a careful climber. In my opinion, the route is dangerous and likely can't be made safe.

This comment is not intended as a criticism (overall, I think the bolters have done a great job on this cliff), but rather as a warning to future climbers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 29, 2009

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Comments: We did just the 1st pitch after climbing Muttonhead. I thought it was one of the best pitches I've climbed so far in Cochise, and is definitely worth doing on its own if you're looking for a bit more climbing at the end of the day. A 70 got us down comfortably and a 60 would probably work with care.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Wow! How much simul-climbing did you do?


Location: Dustin Clelen : Posing and Spraying : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: I love how snow highlights all of the Yellow Wall area's wonderful flakes and little ledges.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : B Cubed (5.10b)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 15, 2009

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Comments: To provide balance to Jimbo's comment, I thought this was a worthwhile route. I suppose it's not a "classic", but the rock was much better than I expected (I didn't really notice any rotten rock), and with the added bolts and anchors, the protection is quite reasonable. It's a bit ledgey, but the actual climbing moves are really fun.

If you've done some of the other 10- and under routes in this canyon and enjoyed them, then definitely consider this route. If Elephantiasis is really that much... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Balin Goes to Hollywood (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 14, 2009

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Comments: The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected al... more >>


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