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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 167
Total Points: 2,952
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 2
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1922 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 148 | Page Improvements | Comments 372 | Posts 348 | Stars 782 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone else find it disturbing that the chains are set in the top (max leverage) of a completely detached block that leans slightly over the edge?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: That's really interesting, I have always turned the corner about 10 feet higher than that-first climbing over those little roofs on the left, which are kind of scary. How was it at that spot?

[edit]: let's see, how else can we nit-pick the photo (and the ascent)? :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Hell is for Heros (5.9 PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: The wandering no-pro face above the crack on P2 is kind of ho-hum (except for the minor issue that falling might kill you), but it looks really easy to traverse over to the belay atop P2 of Cripple Creek and then finish on that route for more good climbing.

But wow, the first 60 feet of P2...that's some of the best climbing anywhere on the mountain. Pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing with wild exposure. P1 of Standard Route is not that bad as an approach pitch, though the long traverse is an... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: Actually, that's pitch one of the North Chimney.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Table Mountain
By: Charles Vernon When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Is it pretty obvious where to leave the Pima Canyon trail if you're approaching from that side? Can anyone give more details on that approach?

Edit: answering my own question: approach beta here.

Took us 3 hours to get to the top of Table Mountain, then another 30 or 45 minutes to the base of Crescent Crack (left) via the rappel route. The gully from the Pima Canyon trail wasn't bad-we found a decent trail through. After the gully, it take... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: I don't believe it. That's just ridiculous.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 27, 2011

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Comments: The really crazy thing about this photo is that he's still got a couple of #3 camalots on his harness!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Humungous Woosey (5.9 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Some thoughts:

  • This route is a fantastic adventure. It's truly wild in both senses of the word. Imagine a gnarlier, grittier version of Warpy Moople in the Sandias. I'm not sure where else in So. AZ you can find 1000 (or 500 for that matter) feet of climbing without a bolt. There are brilliant sections of face climbing on pitches 3, 5, and 6. The position is outstanding.

  • The first pitch is very dirty, loose, and uninteresting. Don't go down. There are still some loose sections above, but i...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : East Face/4th Flatiron (5.4 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: I don't really understand all the negative feelings about this climb. Some of the Flatirons are beautiful cruises, and some are wilder adventures. This falls into the latter category, but it also has a variety of cool climbing. Also, definitely do the "extra credit" summit about halfway up. And then do Takin' Care of Business.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: There's a description and long trip report on rockclimbing.com, but just fyi I think the area is closed for bighorn sheep lambing right now.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Dreamscape Buttress (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: How close? Did you realize you were off-route when you clipped them?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: That's awesome. Those shoes don't look like they're going anywhere. Thanks for the great memories.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Back to the climbing for a minute....

....this feels like a Sheepshead clip-up transposed onto Babo. Kinda weird. Still, the climbing was more fun than I thought it would be. The crux pitch was pretty hard. If you're browsing reasonable 5.10s on Babo, I think I'itoi Dance is a better choice: a bit more in keeping with the wilderness experience you may well be seeking. But any day you summit Babo (and get back home the same night) is a good one.

(If you're looking for an unreasonable 5.10, y... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Sun Spot Crags
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: I propose to rename this place the "Steeper Than They Look Crags."


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Viking Soared (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: This route is quite contrived (hence only 1 star) but nevertheless extremely fun and well worth doing if you're at Sun Spots. The top section is remarkably airy.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Marcy, Geir, or anyone--

Assuming the road is in the same condition it was a month ago, would you say that a subaru with 4wd could make it in and back. Or is *high* clearance a necessity?

How far of a hike is it to the climbs from above the "branched switchback"? Is that the same spot as the "2wd parking area" that Geir describes?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: Access note: we ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there wit... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : English Breakfast Crack (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: There, that should do it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Clingon (V3)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: I actually didn't rate these V0. Back in the early days of the site, I think it was possible to rate them with the B-scale, and I vaguely remember rating them B1 (I didn't "get" the V-scale back then and in some ways still don't, but I understand it well enough to know that these are not V0!). Someone must have changed the rating to the V-scale during one of the upgrades.

Edit: I just changed my rating of this and Jaws to V3 which I believe are their consensus ratings in the guides, though I c... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : North Face (5.10c R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: [edit] Went back up again, couldn't find the #3 camalot, but came back with some thoughts about the route:

One way to improve the quality of the route is to do the (somewhat hidden) original 6th pitch instead of the variation that most seem to do (that EFR describes above). Having now done both, I'd say the original line is some of the best and cleanest climbing on the route and adds another 5.10 pitch. To get to the original, belay lower and to the right at the end of traverse. The thin ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 26, 2010

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Comments: I'm almost positive that's Blood Brother-we tried to pick it out (using Kerry's guide) when doing Dem Bones and that's the only feature that makes sense. Looks really cool. Great photo by the way.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: J, I'm pretty sure Quentin is Navajo (I'm sure if he reads this he'll speak for himself), so he might be situated a bit differently from the rest of us.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 6, 2010

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Comments: Ken, Mt. Lemmon is one of our "sky islands" that rises far above the Sonoran desert and is therefore a safe haven from the epidemic--the ORGY--of beheading that's been going on around here. But I might add that the desert regions themselves are getting safer--Jan Brewer has did everything she can.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: AngeMtn-I don't know anything about the Beanfest myself, but you might try posing your question here.

Jean--I think May is pretty hot for Cochise. You can do it if you have high heat tolerance, chase shade, get up really early, etc. Heck, some of the area's main route developers climb there all summer. It's a bit much for me personally. You might consider substituting Paradise Forks for Cochise. Otherwise... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: I agree with Derek. Great climb with lots of variety, especially if you do the arete finish. A little spice on the first pitch too!


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