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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 169
Total Points: 2,921
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 1
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1919 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 376 | Posts 348 | Stars 782 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: Cool shot. I wonder if those giant overhangs getting the light are the top part of the Forrest-Walker, does anyone know? They look wild!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: I don't think that chimney was noticeably any better or worse than the others. Maybe it was more of a grunt, but you could get deeper in it which made it more secure? Can't quite remember. Main thing I remember is that it led to a large ledge.

Your way sounds as good as any other, except that if you plan on an unplanned bivy, then I have to recommend our way for the deluxe ledge.

I like that your topo simultaneously clarifies and confuses. There's enough material on this page now for Wasted St... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: Chris, I tremble to quibble with the laser-like, Supertopian precision of your topo, but you're describing a completely different traverse than Levin, the book, and what my partner and I did. The way we did it, the traverse is a short pitch and deposits you directly at the base of the 10+ roof crack without the entire pitch of "5.9 mixed cracks" that you show. It is also easy to find, because you simply follow the chimney system (keep going where your topo says "chimney" "no") until it ends at a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Chicken Little (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Wow, Joe, it's hard to believe we were climbing the same route! Glad you had such a good experience on it. Maybe I'll have to take another look sometime.

I think part of my animosity stems from an expectation that a 5.8 sport route would be a relative cruise, but this route was insecure and awkward the whole way, especially up high. Felt more like 5.10 to me and caught me by surprise-I thought seriously about grabbing a draw up there!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: I have misplaced SQL II and only remember that EFR did the route sometime in the '80s, but can't remember his partner. Maybe EFR could chime in, or I will update when I find the book.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone else find it disturbing that the chains are set in the top (max leverage) of a completely detached block that leans slightly over the edge?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: That's really interesting, I have always turned the corner about 10 feet higher than that-first climbing over those little roofs on the left, which are kind of scary. How was it at that spot?

[edit]: let's see, how else can we nit-pick the photo (and the ascent)? :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Hell is for Heros (5.9 PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: The wandering no-pro face above the crack on P2 is kind of ho-hum (except for the minor issue that falling might kill you), but it looks really easy to traverse over to the belay atop P2 of Cripple Creek and then finish on that route for more good climbing.

But wow, the first 60 feet of P2...that's some of the best climbing anywhere on the mountain. Pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing with wild exposure. P1 of Standard Route is not that bad as an approach pitch, though the long traverse is an... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: Actually, that's pitch one of the North Chimney.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Table Mountain
By: Charles Vernon When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Is it pretty obvious where to leave the Pima Canyon trail if you're approaching from that side? Can anyone give more details on that approach?

Edit: answering my own question: approach beta here.

Took us 3 hours to get to the top of Table Mountain, then another 30 or 45 minutes to the base of Crescent Crack (left) via the rappel route. The gully from the Pima Canyon trail wasn't bad-we found a decent trail through. After the gully, it take... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: I don't believe it. That's just ridiculous.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 27, 2011

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Comments: The really crazy thing about this photo is that he's still got a couple of #3 camalots on his harness!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Humungous Woosey (5.9 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Some thoughts:

  • This route is a fantastic adventure. It's truly wild in both senses of the word. Imagine a gnarlier, grittier version of Warpy Moople in the Sandias. I'm not sure where else in So. AZ you can find 1000 (or 500 for that matter) feet of climbing without a bolt. There are brilliant sections of face climbing on pitches 3, 5, and 6. The position is outstanding.

  • The first pitch is very dirty, loose, and uninteresting. Don't go down. There are still some loose sections above, but i...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : East Face/4th Flatiron (5.4 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: I don't really understand all the negative feelings about this climb. Some of the Flatirons are beautiful cruises, and some are wilder adventures. This falls into the latter category, but it also has a variety of cool climbing. Also, definitely do the "extra credit" summit about halfway up. And then do Takin' Care of Business.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: There's a description and long trip report on rockclimbing.com, but just fyi I think the area is closed for bighorn sheep lambing right now.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Dreamscape Buttress (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: How close? Did you realize you were off-route when you clipped them?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: That's awesome. Those shoes don't look like they're going anywhere. Thanks for the great memories.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Back to the climbing for a minute....

....this feels like a Sheepshead clip-up transposed onto Babo. Kinda weird. Still, the climbing was more fun than I thought it would be. The crux pitch was pretty hard. If you're browsing reasonable 5.10s on Babo, I think I'itoi Dance is a better choice: a bit more in keeping with the wilderness experience you may well be seeking. But any day you summit Babo (and get back home the same night) is a good one.

(If you're looking for an unreasonable 5.10, y... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Sun Spot Crags
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: I propose to rename this place the "Steeper Than They Look Crags."


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Viking Soared (5.11)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: This route is quite contrived (hence only 1 star) but nevertheless extremely fun and well worth doing if you're at Sun Spots. The top section is remarkably airy.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Marcy, Geir, or anyone--

Assuming the road is in the same condition it was a month ago, would you say that a subaru with 4wd could make it in and back. Or is *high* clearance a necessity?

How far of a hike is it to the climbs from above the "branched switchback"? Is that the same spot as the "2wd parking area" that Geir describes?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 6, 2010

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Comments: Access note: we ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there wit... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : English Breakfast Crack (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 3, 2010

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Comments: There, that should do it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Clingon (V3)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: I actually didn't rate these V0. Back in the early days of the site, I think it was possible to rate them with the B-scale, and I vaguely remember rating them B1 (I didn't "get" the V-scale back then and in some ways still don't, but I understand it well enough to know that these are not V0!). Someone must have changed the rating to the V-scale during one of the upgrades.

Edit: I just changed my rating of this and Jaws to V3 which I believe are their consensus ratings in the guides, though I c... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : North Face (5.10c R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 29, 2010

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Comments: [edit] Went back up again, couldn't find the #3 camalot, but came back with some thoughts about the route:

One way to improve the quality of the route is to do the (somewhat hidden) original 6th pitch instead of the variation that most seem to do (that EFR describes above). Having now done both, I'd say the original line is some of the best and cleanest climbing on the route and adds another 5.10 pitch. To get to the original, belay lower and to the right at the end of traverse. The thin ... more >>


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