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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 176
Total Points: 2,922
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 2
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1933 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 382 | Posts 355 | Stars 784 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: I've been following this conversation with interest.

While I realize MP.com reserves the right to delete anything for any reason, what guideline did "Mystery of the Deadline" violate? He wasn't any more insulting that anyone else on this thread (probably less) or than a thousand other posts that have not been deleted.

Is simply posting anonymously (without being a "jerk" or a "troll") now a criteria for deletion?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : The Labyrinth (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 5, 2012

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Comments: Great adventure--like Interiors but actually leading to the summit. The bowels of the Rockfellows is one of the most unique places I've ever seen, anywhere. We used techniques that I've never done before on a climb and will probably never do again!

Also--much easier than Abra if you want to get the summit of the main dome. Though of course you should be comfortable with chimneys and general weirdness.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, also probably as good as any pitch on Warm and Free. It seemed hard for 5.9.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2012

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Comments: There used to be a note about the new access point on this page but it seems to have disappeared. The map that Jeff Mayhew posted up above shows it correctly. The directions posted about in the description are incorrect as the ranch owners do not want us to use the old access point. If one of the admins reads this, I would be happy to write up a new description to substitute in. In the meantime people should use the map that Jeff posted above. And, be aware that as you drive north (parall... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: South facing routes could be good. Diamond won't be in by most people's standards. A major late spring snowstorm is always a possibility at this time too. Great climbing on nearby Lumpy Ridge if there's too much snow in the Park, though.

Sounds like you may be looking for long adventure routes...consider the Black Canyon, which is usually about perfect in late May. Possibly a tad warm, but much less so than Zion.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Santa Rita Mountains : Elephant Head : Rocktology (5.10+ R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: Your comment leads me to believe that winter is actually the best time to do this route. We did it in January on a 70 degree day and the bird shit, while noticeable, was not enough to detract from my enjoyment of the 2nd pitch.

I still need to get back and do that last pitch, and go to the summit. No one can convince me that this route isn't worth doing twice!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: Cool shot. I wonder if those giant overhangs getting the light are the top part of the Forrest-Walker, does anyone know? They look wild!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: I don't think that chimney was noticeably any better or worse than the others. Maybe it was more of a grunt, but you could get deeper in it which made it more secure? Can't quite remember. Main thing I remember is that it led to a large ledge.

Your way sounds as good as any other, except that if you plan on an unplanned bivy, then I have to recommend our way for the deluxe ledge.

I like that your topo simultaneously clarifies and confuses. There's enough material on this page now for Wasted St... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: Chris, I tremble to quibble with the laser-like, Supertopian precision of your topo, but you're describing a completely different traverse than Levin, the book, and what my partner and I did. The way we did it, the traverse is a short pitch and deposits you directly at the base of the 10+ roof crack without the entire pitch of "5.9 mixed cracks" that you show. It is also easy to find, because you simply follow the chimney system (keep going where your topo says "chimney" "no") until it ends at a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Chicken Little (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Wow, Joe, it's hard to believe we were climbing the same route! Glad you had such a good experience on it. Maybe I'll have to take another look sometime.

I think part of my animosity stems from an expectation that a 5.8 sport route would be a relative cruise, but this route was insecure and awkward the whole way, especially up high. Felt more like 5.10 to me and caught me by surprise-I thought seriously about grabbing a draw up there!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: I have misplaced SQL II and only remember that EFR did the route sometime in the '80s, but can't remember his partner. Maybe EFR could chime in, or I will update when I find the book.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone else find it disturbing that the chains are set in the top (max leverage) of a completely detached block that leans slightly over the edge?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: That's really interesting, I have always turned the corner about 10 feet higher than that-first climbing over those little roofs on the left, which are kind of scary. How was it at that spot?

[edit]: let's see, how else can we nit-pick the photo (and the ascent)? :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Hell is for Heros (5.9 PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: The wandering no-pro face above the crack on P2 is kind of ho-hum (except for the minor issue that falling might kill you), but it looks really easy to traverse over to the belay atop P2 of Cripple Creek and then finish on that route for more good climbing.

But wow, the first 60 feet of P2...that's some of the best climbing anywhere on the mountain. Pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing with wild exposure. P1 of Standard Route is not that bad as an approach pitch, though the long traverse is an... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: Actually, that's pitch one of the North Chimney.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Table Mountain
By: Charles Vernon When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Is it pretty obvious where to leave the Pima Canyon trail if you're approaching from that side? Can anyone give more details on that approach?

Edit: answering my own question: approach beta here.

Took us 3 hours to get to the top of Table Mountain, then another 30 or 45 minutes to the base of Crescent Crack (left) via the rappel route. The gully from the Pima Canyon trail wasn't bad-we found a decent trail through. After the gully, it take... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: I don't believe it. That's just ridiculous.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 27, 2011

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Comments: The really crazy thing about this photo is that he's still got a couple of #3 camalots on his harness!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Humungous Woosey (5.9 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Some thoughts:

  • This route is a fantastic adventure. It's truly wild in both senses of the word. Imagine a gnarlier, grittier version of Warpy Moople in the Sandias. I'm not sure where else in So. AZ you can find 1000 (or 500 for that matter) feet of climbing without a bolt. There are brilliant sections of face climbing on pitches 3, 5, and 6. The position is outstanding.

  • The first pitch is very dirty, loose, and uninteresting. Don't go down. There are still some loose sections above, but i...
 more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : East Face/4th Flatiron (5.4 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: I don't really understand all the negative feelings about this climb. Some of the Flatirons are beautiful cruises, and some are wilder adventures. This falls into the latter category, but it also has a variety of cool climbing. Also, definitely do the "extra credit" summit about halfway up. And then do Takin' Care of Business.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: There's a description and long trip report on rockclimbing.com, but just fyi I think the area is closed for bighorn sheep lambing right now.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Dreamscape Buttress (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 20, 2011

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Comments: How close? Did you realize you were off-route when you clipped them?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 15, 2011

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Comments: That's awesome. Those shoes don't look like they're going anywhere. Thanks for the great memories.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Back to the climbing for a minute....

....this feels like a Sheepshead clip-up transposed onto Babo. Kinda weird. Still, the climbing was more fun than I thought it would be. The crux pitch was pretty hard. If you're browsing reasonable 5.10s on Babo, I think I'itoi Dance is a better choice: a bit more in keeping with the wilderness experience you may well be seeking. But any day you summit Babo (and get back home the same night) is a good one.

(If you're looking for an unreasonable 5.10, y... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Sun Spot Crags
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 6, 2011

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Comments: I propose to rename this place the "Steeper Than They Look Crags."


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