Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 49 mins ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 169
Total Points: 2,921
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 1
53 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1919 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 376 | Posts 348 | Stars 782 | Ratings 101
Page 3 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Heavenly Daze (5.12c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It makes sense when you consider that (I presume) they were drilling by hand.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Josh. I start to feel nauseous almost the moment that I look at this picture. Trippy stuff!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: You're right, I guess at some point a description has so many errors that it no longer refers to the "actual route"!

Since SQL is already misleading when it comes to this route, your point is well-taken that it could really benefit from a clear description here. Would have helped me the first time.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: John, I think if you study it closely for a while, "option #3" is the actual route, but the description is confusing and I think he meant to refer to a crack *right* of the arete rather than left. And, he upgraded it to 10a. Definitely could be cleaned up.

I imagine Tony got confused by the topo in SQL II. I did the first time I attempted QD and climbed what is actually the standard route thinking it was QD.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah--looks like a link-up of approximately Bright Star to Eroica? not even close to D7--it's way right of the Dagger chimney which is probably the most obvious landmark.

Everything else looks correct. I've bivy'd at the marked "crappy bivy", and it was indeed crappy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Why did you assume there would be fixed anchors? In general, that's never a good assumption unless you're climbing at a predominantly sport area or have concrete, reliable information that there are fixed anchors.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Run Like Hell (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Instead of going right under the small roof 2/3 of the way up, you can go left up a clean, overhanging hand-crack flake. I thought this was even better than going right, and about the same difficulty. Ends at the same anchor.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Blockbuster Ballet (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route for the second time and liked it much better than the first time. All the pitches were fun. This time, we did the chimney which was great--much more interesting than the meh offwidth. It's one of the better chimneys around and has a protectable crack in the back the whole way, but since it's flared, the climbing is harder if you squeeze in there--a classic dilemma. A great primer for this type of climbing which must be grappled with in destination areas like Yosemite.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.

Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Warm and Free (5.10- PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I shouldn't give this away (but if you're all the way down here on the comments then you're looking for beta--or just bored), but depending on which way you go, there is a good 0 tcu that somewhat mitigates that final runout. Still probably best not to fall.

Although this is a "mellow" route by Reef standards, I find that all but the second pitch of the "Warm and Steep" link-up have some degree of spice, with the last pitch (2nd of Rapture) being the scariest for me. The spice is not too ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Funny comments. I don't get the impression that people are doing Voodoo Child "over and over" anymore.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Om (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Right, I generally find that to be the most appealing option myself!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Om (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Clay, does it look like you can veer onto Something Unsaid's upper pitches, after finishing Om's crux pitch? It looks theoretically possible on Steiger's topo, and it sounds like the upper pitches might offer a better, more sustained finish.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Has anyone been able to get that damn bong out of there?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I may have opened a can of worms when I fixed an anchor at that spot last summer. For reasons stated in the description, it's a logical place to have a good rap anchor, but the generally committing nature of climbing at the Reef is worth preserving even at the expense of logical rap anchors. If it hasn't happened already, someone should probably ask Dave Baker and Steve Grossman what they think (I would, but don't know either of them personally).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks
By: Charles Vernon When: May 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Question for Paul (or anyone who has an idea):

With the ground-up ethic (which I have practiced on all but one ascent at the Forks), it still seems to me that there's a lot of erosion because you must set an anchor, top-out, and then rap back down into the canyon. Doesn't seem much different than TR to me.

But Paul says:
"For many years, it was very rare to rap in to either canyon.
The standard way in was to do the silver pond down climb and then walk to the base of the climb."

So I guess my... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Not really...it goes up the sunlit face in this photo, but obviously you can't make out the crack.

When you go, check out Om and Every Trick in the Book...two pitches that we saw on rap that looked amazing, but we didn't get on. Could make quite a day of 10+/11- on gear making the approach worth it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Indeed it is a maze...this is at the beginning of the Labyrinth.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 26, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Dennis,

I definitely lack literary envisioning skills. I don't even know what they are.

Perin didn't say anything about any metaphoric scenes so I'm not sure how you could agree with him about that. Do you lack reading comprehension skills? Or was this a "literary envisioning" of what Perin was actually trying to say?

Up til now, "being a jerk" has always been a criteria for post deletion on MP.com but to my knowledge "being a drive-by anonymous coward" by itself has never been. Anonymous pos... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I've been following this conversation with interest.

While I realize MP.com reserves the right to delete anything for any reason, what guideline did "Mystery of the Deadline" violate? He wasn't any more insulting that anyone else on this thread (probably less) or than a thousand other posts that have not been deleted.

Is simply posting anonymously (without being a "jerk" or a "troll") now a criteria for deletion?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : The Labyrinth (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Great adventure--like Interiors but actually leading to the summit. The bowels of the Rockfellows is one of the most unique places I've ever seen, anywhere. We used techniques that I've never done before on a climb and will probably never do again!

Also--much easier than Abra if you want to get the summit of the main dome. Though of course you should be comfortable with chimneys and general weirdness.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, also probably as good as any pitch on Warm and Free. It seemed hard for 5.9.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There used to be a note about the new access point on this page but it seems to have disappeared. The map that Jeff Mayhew posted up above shows it correctly. The directions posted about in the description are incorrect as the ranch owners do not want us to use the old access point. If one of the admins reads this, I would be happy to write up a new description to substitute in. In the meantime people should use the map that Jeff posted above. And, be aware that as you drive north (parall... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: South facing routes could be good. Diamond won't be in by most people's standards. A major late spring snowstorm is always a possibility at this time too. Great climbing on nearby Lumpy Ridge if there's too much snow in the Park, though.

Sounds like you may be looking for long adventure routes...consider the Black Canyon, which is usually about perfect in late May. Possibly a tad warm, but much less so than Zion.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Santa Rita Mountains : Elephant Head : Rocktology (5.10+ R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Your comment leads me to believe that winter is actually the best time to do this route. We did it in January on a 70 degree day and the bird shit, while noticeable, was not enough to detract from my enjoyment of the 2nd pitch.

I still need to get back and do that last pitch, and go to the summit. No one can convince me that this route isn't worth doing twice!


Page 3 of 16.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>