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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,964
Last Year: 38
Last 30 Days: 2
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1916 | Routes 145 | Areas 27 | Photos 148 | Page Improvements | Comments 369 | Posts 346 | Stars 780 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.

Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Warm and Free (5.10- PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: Maybe I shouldn't give this away (but if you're all the way down here on the comments then you're looking for beta--or just bored), but depending on which way you go, there is a good 0 tcu that somewhat mitigates that final runout. Still probably best not to fall.

Although this is a "mellow" route by Reef standards, I find that all but the second pitch of the "Warm and Steep" link-up have some degree of spice, with the last pitch (2nd of Rapture) being the scariest for me. The spice is not too ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: Funny comments. I don't get the impression that people are doing Voodoo Child "over and over" anymore.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Om (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Right, I generally find that to be the most appealing option myself!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Om (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Hey Clay, does it look like you can veer onto Something Unsaid's upper pitches, after finishing Om's crux pitch? It looks theoretically possible on Steiger's topo, and it sounds like the upper pitches might offer a better, more sustained finish.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone been able to get that damn bong out of there?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: I may have opened a can of worms when I fixed an anchor at that spot last summer. For reasons stated in the description, it's a logical place to have a good rap anchor, but the generally committing nature of climbing at the Reef is worth preserving even at the expense of logical rap anchors. If it hasn't happened already, someone should probably ask Dave Baker and Steve Grossman what they think (I would, but don't know either of them personally).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks
By: Charles Vernon When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: Question for Paul (or anyone who has an idea):

With the ground-up ethic (which I have practiced on all but one ascent at the Forks), it still seems to me that there's a lot of erosion because you must set an anchor, top-out, and then rap back down into the canyon. Doesn't seem much different than TR to me.

But Paul says:
"For many years, it was very rare to rap in to either canyon.
The standard way in was to do the silver pond down climb and then walk to the base of the climb."

So I guess my... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Not really...it goes up the sunlit face in this photo, but obviously you can't make out the crack.

When you go, check out Om and Every Trick in the Book...two pitches that we saw on rap that looked amazing, but we didn't get on. Could make quite a day of 10+/11- on gear making the approach worth it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Indeed it is a maze...this is at the beginning of the Labyrinth.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Dennis,

I definitely lack literary envisioning skills. I don't even know what they are.

Perin didn't say anything about any metaphoric scenes so I'm not sure how you could agree with him about that. Do you lack reading comprehension skills? Or was this a "literary envisioning" of what Perin was actually trying to say?

Up til now, "being a jerk" has always been a criteria for post deletion on MP.com but to my knowledge "being a drive-by anonymous coward" by itself has never been. Anonymous pos... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: I've been following this conversation with interest.

While I realize MP.com reserves the right to delete anything for any reason, what guideline did "Mystery of the Deadline" violate? He wasn't any more insulting that anyone else on this thread (probably less) or than a thousand other posts that have not been deleted.

Is simply posting anonymously (without being a "jerk" or a "troll") now a criteria for deletion?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : The Labyrinth (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 5, 2012

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Comments: Great adventure--like Interiors but actually leading to the summit. The bowels of the Rockfellows is one of the most unique places I've ever seen, anywhere. We used techniques that I've never done before on a climb and will probably never do again!

Also--much easier than Abra if you want to get the summit of the main dome. Though of course you should be comfortable with chimneys and general weirdness.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, also probably as good as any pitch on Warm and Free. It seemed hard for 5.9.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ...
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2012

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Comments: There used to be a note about the new access point on this page but it seems to have disappeared. The map that Jeff Mayhew posted up above shows it correctly. The directions posted about in the description are incorrect as the ranch owners do not want us to use the old access point. If one of the admins reads this, I would be happy to write up a new description to substitute in. In the meantime people should use the map that Jeff posted above. And, be aware that as you drive north (parall... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: South facing routes could be good. Diamond won't be in by most people's standards. A major late spring snowstorm is always a possibility at this time too. Great climbing on nearby Lumpy Ridge if there's too much snow in the Park, though.

Sounds like you may be looking for long adventure routes...consider the Black Canyon, which is usually about perfect in late May. Possibly a tad warm, but much less so than Zion.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Santa Rita Mountains : Elephant Head : Rocktology (5.10+ R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: Your comment leads me to believe that winter is actually the best time to do this route. We did it in January on a 70 degree day and the bird shit, while noticeable, was not enough to detract from my enjoyment of the 2nd pitch.

I still need to get back and do that last pitch, and go to the summit. No one can convince me that this route isn't worth doing twice!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: Cool shot. I wonder if those giant overhangs getting the light are the top part of the Forrest-Walker, does anyone know? They look wild!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: I don't think that chimney was noticeably any better or worse than the others. Maybe it was more of a grunt, but you could get deeper in it which made it more secure? Can't quite remember. Main thing I remember is that it led to a large ledge.

Your way sounds as good as any other, except that if you plan on an unplanned bivy, then I have to recommend our way for the deluxe ledge.

I like that your topo simultaneously clarifies and confuses. There's enough material on this page now for Wasted St... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: Chris, I tremble to quibble with the laser-like, Supertopian precision of your topo, but you're describing a completely different traverse than Levin, the book, and what my partner and I did. The way we did it, the traverse is a short pitch and deposits you directly at the base of the 10+ roof crack without the entire pitch of "5.9 mixed cracks" that you show. It is also easy to find, because you simply follow the chimney system (keep going where your topo says "chimney" "no") until it ends at a... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Chicken Little (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: Wow, Joe, it's hard to believe we were climbing the same route! Glad you had such a good experience on it. Maybe I'll have to take another look sometime.

I think part of my animosity stems from an expectation that a 5.8 sport route would be a relative cruise, but this route was insecure and awkward the whole way, especially up high. Felt more like 5.10 to me and caught me by surprise-I thought seriously about grabbing a draw up there!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 24, 2011

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Comments: I have misplaced SQL II and only remember that EFR did the route sometime in the '80s, but can't remember his partner. Maybe EFR could chime in, or I will update when I find the book.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone else find it disturbing that the chains are set in the top (max leverage) of a completely detached block that leans slightly over the edge?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: That's really interesting, I have always turned the corner about 10 feet higher than that-first climbing over those little roofs on the left, which are kind of scary. How was it at that spot?

[edit]: let's see, how else can we nit-pick the photo (and the ascent)? :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Hell is for Heros (5.9 PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: The wandering no-pro face above the crack on P2 is kind of ho-hum (except for the minor issue that falling might kill you), but it looks really easy to traverse over to the belay atop P2 of Cripple Creek and then finish on that route for more good climbing.

But wow, the first 60 feet of P2...that's some of the best climbing anywhere on the mountain. Pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing with wild exposure. P1 of Standard Route is not that bad as an approach pitch, though the long traverse is an... more >>


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