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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 176
Total Points: 2,922
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 2
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1933 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 382 | Posts 355 | Stars 784 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Golder Dome : Ten Years After (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Clay, if I say it's good, it's good. With that said, you should have no qualms about jumping on Humungous Woosey :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Layback 'n Cruz (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Where is this in relation to "Where Eaglets Dare"? It sounds very similar.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Mojo Wall and Branching Out...
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: John, I've been here a couple times and can clarify that "Out on a Limb" and "Branching Out/Lipshitz start and basically climb the NE face of Branching Out crag (rather than Mojo). This is well down and around the corner from Corination and Rack Your Brian.

Also, "Treehuggers Mojo," despite the name, is on the North face of Branching out, and "Swinging from the Upper Limbs" is the next climb to its left. As far as I could tell, you can't scramble from these climbs around to "Branching Out" etc... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 2, 2012

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Comments: Many thanks to all of you who worked to improve this route. The already amazing second pitch will be that much better without all that old useless fixed gear. Can't wait to get back on it.

Andy, just curious, when you say the nut "pulled," you mean in the sense that it actually failed while weighted?! Or simply that someone removed it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Inner Passage (5.3)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: This "don't take a non-climber" stuff is a bit off base, in my opinion. I've known plenty of people who may never tie into a rope but would have no problem negotiating the Inner Passage. And as we all know there are plenty of climbers who will have nothing to do with chimneys or the "techniques" for climbing them.

[Edit] Did this again recently with relatively stiff-soled hiking shoes rather than climbing shoes and actually found it to be easier than with climbing shoes. However, I have large (... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Nick-
I have done the route two more times since I wrote the description above and I think I have done every variation except for the 10d seam. So I think I know it fairly well now and when I get a chance, I'll redo it. Alternatively, if you or someone else who knows the route well wants to do it, I have no problem with that, but you'll probably have to contact an admin.

I think you are right about the length of the 5.9 fist pitch. What other info did you find misleading and what other aspects ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Heavenly Daze (5.12c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: It makes sense when you consider that (I presume) they were drilling by hand.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: I agree with Josh. I start to feel nauseous almost the moment that I look at this picture. Trippy stuff!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: You're right, I guess at some point a description has so many errors that it no longer refers to the "actual route"!

Since SQL is already misleading when it comes to this route, your point is well-taken that it could really benefit from a clear description here. Would have helped me the first time.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: John, I think if you study it closely for a while, "option #3" is the actual route, but the description is confusing and I think he meant to refer to a crack *right* of the arete rather than left. And, he upgraded it to 10a. Definitely could be cleaned up.

I imagine Tony got confused by the topo in SQL II. I did the first time I attempted QD and climbed what is actually the standard route thinking it was QD.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: Yeah--looks like a link-up of approximately Bright Star to Eroica? not even close to D7--it's way right of the Dagger chimney which is probably the most obvious landmark.

Everything else looks correct. I've bivy'd at the marked "crappy bivy", and it was indeed crappy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Why did you assume there would be fixed anchors? In general, that's never a good assumption unless you're climbing at a predominantly sport area or have concrete, reliable information that there are fixed anchors.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Run Like Hell (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Instead of going right under the small roof 2/3 of the way up, you can go left up a clean, overhanging hand-crack flake. I thought this was even better than going right, and about the same difficulty. Ends at the same anchor.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Blockbuster Ballet (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: I did this route for the second time and liked it much better than the first time. All the pitches were fun. This time, we did the chimney which was great--much more interesting than the meh offwidth. It's one of the better chimneys around and has a protectable crack in the back the whole way, but since it's flared, the climbing is harder if you squeeze in there--a classic dilemma. A great primer for this type of climbing which must be grappled with in destination areas like Yosemite.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.

Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Warm and Free (5.10- PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: Maybe I shouldn't give this away (but if you're all the way down here on the comments then you're looking for beta--or just bored), but depending on which way you go, there is a good 0 tcu that somewhat mitigates that final runout. Still probably best not to fall.

Although this is a "mellow" route by Reef standards, I find that all but the second pitch of the "Warm and Steep" link-up have some degree of spice, with the last pitch (2nd of Rapture) being the scariest for me. The spice is not too ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: Funny comments. I don't get the impression that people are doing Voodoo Child "over and over" anymore.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Om (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 4, 2012

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Comments: Right, I generally find that to be the most appealing option myself!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Om (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 3, 2012

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Comments: Hey Clay, does it look like you can veer onto Something Unsaid's upper pitches, after finishing Om's crux pitch? It looks theoretically possible on Steiger's topo, and it sounds like the upper pitches might offer a better, more sustained finish.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone been able to get that damn bong out of there?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 20, 2012

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Comments: I may have opened a can of worms when I fixed an anchor at that spot last summer. For reasons stated in the description, it's a logical place to have a good rap anchor, but the generally committing nature of climbing at the Reef is worth preserving even at the expense of logical rap anchors. If it hasn't happened already, someone should probably ask Dave Baker and Steve Grossman what they think (I would, but don't know either of them personally).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks
By: Charles Vernon When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: Question for Paul (or anyone who has an idea):

With the ground-up ethic (which I have practiced on all but one ascent at the Forks), it still seems to me that there's a lot of erosion because you must set an anchor, top-out, and then rap back down into the canyon. Doesn't seem much different than TR to me.

But Paul says:
"For many years, it was very rare to rap in to either canyon.
The standard way in was to do the silver pond down climb and then walk to the base of the climb."

So I guess my... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Not really...it goes up the sunlit face in this photo, but obviously you can't make out the crack.

When you go, check out Om and Every Trick in the Book...two pitches that we saw on rap that looked amazing, but we didn't get on. Could make quite a day of 10+/11- on gear making the approach worth it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Indeed it is a maze...this is at the beginning of the Labyrinth.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Charles Vernon When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: Dennis,

I definitely lack literary envisioning skills. I don't even know what they are.

Perin didn't say anything about any metaphoric scenes so I'm not sure how you could agree with him about that. Do you lack reading comprehension skills? Or was this a "literary envisioning" of what Perin was actually trying to say?

Up til now, "being a jerk" has always been a criteria for post deletion on MP.com but to my knowledge "being a drive-by anonymous coward" by itself has never been. Anonymous pos... more >>


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