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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon

Point Rank: # 177
Total Points: 2,922
Last Year: 19
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1933 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements | Comments 382 | Posts 355 | Stars 784 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Triangulate (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: Eric, first of all, thanks for identifying this problem and so promptly fixing it. I just made a long-overdue donation to the ASCA.

I have only placed a few bolts in my life and wouldn't have been able to identify these as bad bolts. How was it that you were able to identify these as 5/16 sleeve bolts and/or bad bolts? Any tips? It sounds like there may be a lot of them around here....


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: That's pitch 4 of Moby Dick, not Dem Bones. Dem Bones climbs the distinctive dike that looks like a dinosaur spine, well right of the last pitch of Moby Dick. P4 of Moby Dick is great, but you miss the signature feature of Dem Bones.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Stealin (5.11a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: I did. I think it's 10+ if you move a fair bit right by the 3rd bolt (on obvious chalked holds), which is what I have always done. I also think the unknown route 2 routes left (rated 5.10) is harder than Stealin.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: Is that giant chockstone as terrifyingly precarious as it looks?!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Unknown (Left of I Been Rob... (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 4, 2014

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Comments: I was Slaton's friend who "got through the crux on lead." I did it by straining at the absolute limit of my reach (I'm 5'11") off terrible holds to get the draw through the bolt, then quickly grabbing the draw to clip in lieu of decking. Pretty annoying--might be worth it if there was something more than 20 feet of 5.8 above, but there's not. That said, like jbak says this route does give you the opportunity to practice skills that you might need, on routes that *are* worth it. Other than that I... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold
By: Charles Vernon When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: You will encounter locked gates that you need a code to open.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : ... : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Heinoid Mind-Bendo, a 6 pitch 5.10 Jeff Mayhew route. Contact him for more info. I think he may have told me it's not as sustained, scary, or good as the North Face, but my memory is a bit hazy.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: If Darth was the first ascentionist's father's brother's nephew's cousin's former roommate, I might consider giving them back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Even jerks and reprobates should get their draws back :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: With all due respect, Geir, I don't think getting one's draws back should have anything to do with whether one is a "really nice guy" (or was climbing with the first ascentionist, or etc.). If it's the right thing to do, then it's the right thing to do--period.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Hey Alex, I wonder if you took the rightmost option on the topo--up and a bit right from the bolt? I remember that looked like no man's land. I have done this climb several times and there definitely shouldn't be any 5.11 15-20 feet out if done "normally" ie the middle option, which moves up and left. Maybe 5-10 feet out at most.

Just noticed dancesatmoonrise's comment and fun little story--if this was bumped up it happened a long time ago, as it's rated 5.11 in Steiger's guide published almos... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Five Mile Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Must be that grade deflation everyone's always complaining about :)

Seriously, I wouldn't argue with 9 & 10+. Damn hard moves off the belay on Town Without Pity.

You do any of the other routes out there Jbak? Any recommendations? After seeing the campsites and the view I want to go back just so I can camp out!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Chiboni (5.9+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: The third bolt hanger is loose. I attempted to tighten it with my nut tool wrench, but was unable to get it flush with the rock as it's in a little depression. It needs a real wrench. I did hand-tighten it, but that won't last long.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Mike, I think typically the multi-pitch routes on the Fortress all use the standard walk-off descent from the top, unless the route description specifies otherwise. There is a good description for this descent in the first comment on the rock page.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Really hot and yes.

[edit] Then again, I see you're from Phoenix. Perhaps you'll have a different perspective on "heat."


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Duck Soup (5.6) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Definitely not Duck Soup. Looks like Griffo.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: That is amazing. How long is the approach? How hard are the routes, if any?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Eric, I sent you a private message, did you get it?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: The third pitch would be pretty epic without some jamming skills. Take him up something in Eldo, or an easy high peaks route (if you don't mind the more committing day). If it's gotta be Lumpy, some fun moderates that do not require much jamming include East Ridge of Twin Owls; Batman and Robin; Hand over Hand; Hiatus (scary for the leader); and Magical Chrome Plated. There are also many great routes in the 5.8/9 range on Sundance Buttress that don't invol... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: Is he about to start up the splitter crack that looks like it would make an alternate start to User Friendly (hitting the top of P2)? We were curious about that crack--it looked really good. How hard did you find it to be and what rack did you need? Did you continue up User Friendly or did you keep going up the crack?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: I've never been to this crag, but it seems strange to single it out as not matching up with the style of other bolted routes on Mt. Lemmon. There are tons of newer bolted areas where the bolts are close together. Raycreation, Ridgeline, Munchkinland, Rivendell, just to name a few.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Colorado Crush (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Excellent point. It should be noted that you can do the "best" pitch and then rap from the top of pitch 2 with two ropes, all the way to the ground. You'll probably have to leave some webbing.

The point about my being so hard-core is also a very good point.

[Edit]: In seriousness, perhaps my memory of this route is faulty. When posting on this site I am usually careful to note loose rock, runouts, poor quality climbing, etc. so as not to sandbag or mislead.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Colorado Crush (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: DAMMIT, I RECOMMEND THIS THING WITHOUT ANY RESERVATIONS!!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: The east-side approach road has significantly worsened. Yesterday was my ~9th trip up that road over 4 years and it was much rougher driving than any of the previous times. In the past I have easily negotiated the road with a compact, fairly low-clearance 2WD Isuzu pickup, but barely made it yesterday in an F-150 with high clearance (but also 2WD). There was one section that took 4-5 tries: severely washed-out with giant rocks sticking up everywhere. With 4WD we would have likely have made it fi... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm not advocating anything and don't particular care what happens, but it is worth noting that if bolts are removed, anyone who wants to climb this can do so by first leading Puppy Love, which is a well-bolted 5.8 that shares the same anchor. Removing the bolts won't mean that people can't easily access and climb it.

[Edit] It's also interesting that people still seem to get plenty scared on this route, despite the addition of bolts. The "ticks" note at least one 35 foot fall and several other... more >>


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