Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 48 mins ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,962
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 2
51 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1913 | Routes 145 | Areas 27 | Photos 148 | Page Improvments | Comments 367 | Posts 345 | Stars 780 | Ratings 101
Page 2 of 15.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That is amazing. How long is the approach? How hard are the routes, if any?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Eric, I sent you a private message, did you get it?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The third pitch would be pretty epic without some jamming skills. Take him up something in Eldo, or an easy high peaks route (if you don't mind the more committing day). If it's gotta be Lumpy, some fun moderates that do not require much jamming include East Ridge of Twin Owls; Batman and Robin; Hand over Hand; Hiatus (scary for the leader); and Magical Chrome Plated. There are also many great routes in the 5.8/9 range on Sundance Buttress that don't invol... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Is he about to start up the splitter crack that looks like it would make an alternate start to User Friendly (hitting the top of P2)? We were curious about that crack--it looked really good. How hard did you find it to be and what rack did you need? Did you continue up User Friendly or did you keep going up the crack?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I've never been to this crag, but it seems strange to single it out as not matching up with the style of other bolted routes on Mt. Lemmon. There are tons of newer bolted areas where the bolts are close together. Raycreation, Ridgeline, Munchkinland, Rivendell, just to name a few.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Colorado Crush (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent point. It should be noted that you can do the "best" pitch and then rap from the top of pitch 2 with two ropes, all the way to the ground. You'll probably have to leave some webbing.

The point about my being so hard-core is also a very good point.

[Edit]: In seriousness, perhaps my memory of this route is faulty. When posting on this site I am usually careful to note loose rock, runouts, poor quality climbing, etc. so as not to sandbag or mislead.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Colorado Crush (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: DAMMIT, I RECOMMEND THIS THING WITHOUT ANY RESERVATIONS!!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The east-side approach road has significantly worsened. Yesterday was my ~9th trip up that road over 4 years and it was much rougher driving than any of the previous times. In the past I have easily negotiated the road with a compact, fairly low-clearance 2WD Isuzu pickup, but barely made it yesterday in an F-150 with high clearance (but also 2WD). There was one section that took 4-5 tries: severely washed-out with giant rocks sticking up everywhere. With 4WD we would have likely have made it fi... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not advocating anything and don't particular care what happens, but it is worth noting that if bolts are removed, anyone who wants to climb this can do so by first leading Puppy Love, which is a well-bolted 5.8 that shares the same anchor. Removing the bolts won't mean that people can't easily access and climb it.

[Edit] It's also interesting that people still seem to get plenty scared on this route, despite the addition of bolts. The "ticks" note at least one 35 foot fall and several other... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Golder Dome : Ten Years After (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Clay, if I say it's good, it's good. With that said, you should have no qualms about jumping on Humungous Woosey :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Layback 'n Cruz (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Where is this in relation to "Where Eaglets Dare"? It sounds very similar.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Mojo Wall and Branching Out...
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: John, I've been here a couple times and can clarify that "Out on a Limb" and "Branching Out/Lipshitz start and basically climb the NE face of Branching Out crag (rather than Mojo). This is well down and around the corner from Corination and Rack Your Brian.

Also, "Treehuggers Mojo," despite the name, is on the North face of Branching out, and "Swinging from the Upper Limbs" is the next climb to its left. As far as I could tell, you can't scramble from these climbs around to "Branching Out" etc... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Many thanks to all of you who worked to improve this route. The already amazing second pitch will be that much better without all that old useless fixed gear. Can't wait to get back on it.

Andy, just curious, when you say the nut "pulled," you mean in the sense that it actually failed while weighted?! Or simply that someone removed it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Inner Passage (5.3)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This "don't take a non-climber" stuff is a bit off base, in my opinion. I've known plenty of people who may never tie into a rope but would have no problem negotiating the Inner Passage. And as we all know there are plenty of climbers who will have nothing to do with chimneys or the "techniques" for climbing them.

[Edit] Did this again recently with relatively stiff-soled hiking shoes rather than climbing shoes and actually found it to be easier than with climbing shoes. However, I have large (... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Nick-
I have done the route two more times since I wrote the description above and I think I have done every variation except for the 10d seam. So I think I know it fairly well now and when I get a chance, I'll redo it. Alternatively, if you or someone else who knows the route well wants to do it, I have no problem with that, but you'll probably have to contact an admin.

I think you are right about the length of the 5.9 fist pitch. What other info did you find misleading and what other aspects ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Heavenly Daze (5.12c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It makes sense when you consider that (I presume) they were drilling by hand.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Josh. I start to feel nauseous almost the moment that I look at this picture. Trippy stuff!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: You're right, I guess at some point a description has so many errors that it no longer refers to the "actual route"!

Since SQL is already misleading when it comes to this route, your point is well-taken that it could really benefit from a clear description here. Would have helped me the first time.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Quick Death (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: John, I think if you study it closely for a while, "option #3" is the actual route, but the description is confusing and I think he meant to refer to a crack *right* of the arete rather than left. And, he upgraded it to 10a. Definitely could be cleaned up.

I imagine Tony got confused by the topo in SQL II. I did the first time I attempted QD and climbed what is actually the standard route thinking it was QD.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah--looks like a link-up of approximately Bright Star to Eroica? not even close to D7--it's way right of the Dagger chimney which is probably the most obvious landmark.

Everything else looks correct. I've bivy'd at the marked "crappy bivy", and it was indeed crappy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Why did you assume there would be fixed anchors? In general, that's never a good assumption unless you're climbing at a predominantly sport area or have concrete, reliable information that there are fixed anchors.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Run Like Hell (5.10-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Instead of going right under the small roof 2/3 of the way up, you can go left up a clean, overhanging hand-crack flake. I thought this was even better than going right, and about the same difficulty. Ends at the same anchor.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Blockbuster Ballet (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 11, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route for the second time and liked it much better than the first time. All the pitches were fun. This time, we did the chimney which was great--much more interesting than the meh offwidth. It's one of the better chimneys around and has a protectable crack in the back the whole way, but since it's flared, the climbing is harder if you squeeze in there--a classic dilemma. A great primer for this type of climbing which must be grappled with in destination areas like Yosemite.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Black Magic Woman (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: You don't need Gear. You just need to stop doing Voodoo Child so much and open your eyes to the other possibilities.

Seriously, you should get on this John, it's great and well-protected, even though the geir is small. I laced it up.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Warm and Free (5.10- PG13)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I shouldn't give this away (but if you're all the way down here on the comments then you're looking for beta--or just bored), but depending on which way you go, there is a good 0 tcu that somewhat mitigates that final runout. Still probably best not to fall.

Although this is a "mellow" route by Reef standards, I find that all but the second pitch of the "Warm and Steep" link-up have some degree of spice, with the last pitch (2nd of Rapture) being the scariest for me. The spice is not too ... more >>


Page 2 of 15.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>