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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Charles Vernon


Point Rank: # 169
Total Points: 2,931
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 3
52 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Charles Vernon been climbing?










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All 1921 | Routes 145 | Areas 26 | Photos 143 | Page Improvements | Comments 376 | Posts 348 | Stars 782 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: If Darth was the first ascentionist's father's brother's nephew's cousin's former roommate, I might consider giving them back.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2013

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Comments: Even jerks and reprobates should get their draws back :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: With all due respect, Geir, I don't think getting one's draws back should have anything to do with whether one is a "really nice guy" (or was climbing with the first ascentionist, or etc.). If it's the right thing to do, then it's the right thing to do--period.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Voodoo Child (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Hey Alex, I wonder if you took the rightmost option on the topo--up and a bit right from the bolt? I remember that looked like no man's land. I have done this climb several times and there definitely shouldn't be any 5.11 15-20 feet out if done "normally" ie the middle option, which moves up and left. Maybe 5-10 feet out at most.

Just noticed dancesatmoonrise's comment and fun little story--if this was bumped up it happened a long time ago, as it's rated 5.11 in Steiger's guide published almos... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Five Mile Wall
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Must be that grade deflation everyone's always complaining about :)

Seriously, I wouldn't argue with 9 & 10+. Damn hard moves off the belay on Town Without Pity.

You do any of the other routes out there Jbak? Any recommendations? After seeing the campsites and the view I want to go back just so I can camp out!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Chiboni (5.9+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: The third bolt hanger is loose. I attempted to tighten it with my nut tool wrench, but was unable to get it flush with the rock as it's in a little depression. It needs a real wrench. I did hand-tighten it, but that won't last long.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Fisherman's Elbow (5.8+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Mike, I think typically the multi-pitch routes on the Fortress all use the standard walk-off descent from the top, unless the route description specifies otherwise. There is a good description for this descent in the first comment on the rock page.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: Really hot and yes.

[edit] Then again, I see you're from Phoenix. Perhaps you'll have a different perspective on "heat."


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Duck Soup (5.6) : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Definitely not Duck Soup. Looks like Griffo.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: That is amazing. How long is the approach? How hard are the routes, if any?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Eric, I sent you a private message, did you get it?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Charles Vernon When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: The third pitch would be pretty epic without some jamming skills. Take him up something in Eldo, or an easy high peaks route (if you don't mind the more committing day). If it's gotta be Lumpy, some fun moderates that do not require much jamming include East Ridge of Twin Owls; Batman and Robin; Hand over Hand; Hiatus (scary for the leader); and Magical Chrome Plated. There are also many great routes in the 5.8/9 range on Sundance Buttress that don't invol... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Leviathan Dome : Photo
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: Is he about to start up the splitter crack that looks like it would make an alternate start to User Friendly (hitting the top of P2)? We were curious about that crack--it looked really good. How hard did you find it to be and what rack did you need? Did you continue up User Friendly or did you keep going up the crack?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...
By: Charles Vernon When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: I've never been to this crag, but it seems strange to single it out as not matching up with the style of other bolted routes on Mt. Lemmon. There are tons of newer bolted areas where the bolts are close together. Raycreation, Ridgeline, Munchkinland, Rivendell, just to name a few.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Colorado Crush (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Excellent point. It should be noted that you can do the "best" pitch and then rap from the top of pitch 2 with two ropes, all the way to the ground. You'll probably have to leave some webbing.

The point about my being so hard-core is also a very good point.

[Edit]: In seriousness, perhaps my memory of this route is faulty. When posting on this site I am usually careful to note loose rock, runouts, poor quality climbing, etc. so as not to sandbag or mislead.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon : Colorado Crush (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: DAMMIT, I RECOMMEND THIS THING WITHOUT ANY RESERVATIONS!!!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: The east-side approach road has significantly worsened. Yesterday was my ~9th trip up that road over 4 years and it was much rougher driving than any of the previous times. In the past I have easily negotiated the road with a compact, fairly low-clearance 2WD Isuzu pickup, but barely made it yesterday in an F-150 with high clearance (but also 2WD). There was one section that took 4-5 tries: severely washed-out with giant rocks sticking up everywhere. With 4WD we would have likely have made it fi... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm not advocating anything and don't particular care what happens, but it is worth noting that if bolts are removed, anyone who wants to climb this can do so by first leading Puppy Love, which is a well-bolted 5.8 that shares the same anchor. Removing the bolts won't mean that people can't easily access and climb it.

[Edit] It's also interesting that people still seem to get plenty scared on this route, despite the addition of bolts. The "ticks" note at least one 35 foot fall and several other... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Golder Dome : Ten Years After (5.10+)
By: Charles Vernon When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Clay, if I say it's good, it's good. With that said, you should have no qualms about jumping on Humungous Woosey :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Layback 'n Cruz (5.6)
By: Charles Vernon When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Where is this in relation to "Where Eaglets Dare"? It sounds very similar.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Mojo Wall and Branching Out...
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: John, I've been here a couple times and can clarify that "Out on a Limb" and "Branching Out/Lipshitz start and basically climb the NE face of Branching Out crag (rather than Mojo). This is well down and around the corner from Corination and Rack Your Brian.

Also, "Treehuggers Mojo," despite the name, is on the North face of Branching out, and "Swinging from the Upper Limbs" is the next climb to its left. As far as I could tell, you can't scramble from these climbs around to "Branching Out" etc... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Charles Vernon When: Nov 2, 2012

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Comments: Many thanks to all of you who worked to improve this route. The already amazing second pitch will be that much better without all that old useless fixed gear. Can't wait to get back on it.

Andy, just curious, when you say the nut "pulled," you mean in the sense that it actually failed while weighted?! Or simply that someone removed it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Inner Passage (5.3)
By: Charles Vernon When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: This "don't take a non-climber" stuff is a bit off base, in my opinion. I've known plenty of people who may never tie into a rope but would have no problem negotiating the Inner Passage. And as we all know there are plenty of climbers who will have nothing to do with chimneys or the "techniques" for climbing them.

[Edit] Did this again recently with relatively stiff-soled hiking shoes rather than climbing shoes and actually found it to be easier than with climbing shoes. However, I have large (... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: Nick-
I have done the route two more times since I wrote the description above and I think I have done every variation except for the 10d seam. So I think I know it fairly well now and when I get a chance, I'll redo it. Alternatively, if you or someone else who knows the route well wants to do it, I have no problem with that, but you'll probably have to contact an admin.

I think you are right about the length of the 5.9 fist pitch. What other info did you find misleading and what other aspects ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Heavenly Daze (5.12c)
By: Charles Vernon When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: It makes sense when you consider that (I presume) they were drilling by hand.


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