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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Curtlovesugly (5.11a/b)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps I missed something, but pulling past the second bolt is a long tenuous reach that seamed much harder than anything on Bye, Bye Butterfly.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Bye, Bye Butterfly (5.11c)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route that may be easier if you are taller.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Don't Go (5.9+)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One hard pull at the bolt establishes you in the crack/ corner. Fun and easy climbing above with good gear.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : She's a Moaner (5.9+)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good warm up to the more difficult Ben Dover. Some thoughtful moves above the bolts.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock
By: Chad Stebbins When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I strongly suggest NOT taking the "safe option" approach. We had a dog with us and decided to approach that way. It was ridiculously unpleasant. My 2 cents, if you can't manage the short scramble, find somewhere else to climb. Great routes though.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Central Corner (5.10a)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch that looks harder from the start than it is. Best approach seems to be the 5.7ish slab route with welded cold shuts.
I think a single set of cams with two #4 Friends (an extra #3.5 would work, too) protects this well. I brought doubles in the hand sizes and was good with a single #2.5, 3, and 3.5 Friend. Just FYI for those who don't feel like lugging the extra gear only to sit on it at the belay. There's a few placements on the face for smaller stuff.
Descent:... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Slip Slidin' Away (5.10c)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climb. The small amount of vegetation adds to the ambiance. The first half of the climb definitely keeps your interest.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is sort of a one move wonder, and the difficult move may be hard to protect if you are short. The difficulty eases off the higher you go. It seems about 5.5 for the top half.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Alcove 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is awkward and dirty, but still fun. The top section is nice jamming, but this section is short and easy.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : No Chute aka Rip Cord (5.10a)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was the best of the alcove routes. Very nice and sustained thin hands.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : True Religon (5.10c)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this route feels harder than 5.10 on lead. Gear placement is very strenuous and difficult to see. The rock is very slick, so all the stances are tenuous. It is much easier on TR, when you can lay it back and fire through the steep start.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : The Taj Mahal : Meat Pipe (5.9+ PG13)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jun 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: After climbing this route with John today I had to ask 5.7 + what? It turns out you need to add about two number grades. The difficulty is reminiscent of the narrows on Steck-Salathe in Yosemite. The route is about 130 feet of pure squeeze/chimney climbing with a little off-widthing in the beginning to get established and a few fist jams near the top. This route seems to me to be about as good as this type of climbing gets. To locate this route, it is the dark slot shown on Hubbel's drawing... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Murphy's Dome South Face : unknown (5.10b)
By: Chad Stebbins When: May 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route is closer to 5.11 moving past the second to last bolt. Probabably 5.10 getting to this point. Several friable edges on the top portion of the route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun outing, an excellent route. I found the openning moves getting established on the slab to be fairly straight forward. I thought the crux of the route was the next several moves between the 2nd and 4th bolts of the first pitch, felt solid 10. Funny how that goes.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Dereliction Affliction (5.11b)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climb. If Lats is 11c, as it says in the new guide, this thing is 11a or easier.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Decider (5.10a/b)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The good rail just below the first bolt is a tad hollow. Consider clipping the first bolt prior to cranking on this hold.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Misunderestimate (5.10b/c)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing with a few crux sections. There are a few hollow sounding jugs, so crank lightly.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Dec 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't notice this the previous time I was on this route, but the chockstone at the top of the second pitch with the slings/ rap rings is loose. Consider this if you decide to incorporate it in your belay anchor or decide to rap off of it.
It seems fine for a straight down pull, but the outward leverage it receives if you use it as a hand hold could dislodge it. It also wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I wouldn't be surprised to see it gone someday soon.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Green Zone (5.11a)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite good.
I think it's easiest to skip the first bolt (a spot is more than sufficient to protect the one thin move before jugs) and just bump one quick draw up the 2nd, 3rd, and leave it at the 4th.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jul 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally, I am disappointed if the above comment means that recently some pins were [replaced] at the second pitch crux. The natural gear was adequate. A perfect example of where fixed pro should NOT have be replaced, in my opinion. Reduces the experience, and, in the long run, reduces the safety.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jul 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really defines choose your own adventure climbing. Just start climbing, and follow whatever features tickle your fancy. There are many vertical, horizontal, and diagonal cracks. Overall, the rock is very solid and the pro is more than sufficient. I thought it was 5.5-5.6 and does not deserve an "s" rating. Goood fun.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 3rd Apron Left (5.7+ R)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jul 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll add to the description:The route we followed started by scrambling up to an 18 inch wide ledge that almost cuts across the entire bottom of the formation about 40 feet high. 1st pitch, towards the right of this ledge there is an inviting finger crack that angles up and right, climb this crack to its end and continue straight up to a shallow right facing corner. Climb this corner with scant pro. A ways up there is a right hand side pull flake on the face to the right of the corner. This ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : McCurdy Park Tower
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jul 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Variable weather adds challenge to committing to the longer West face routes. Be prepared for the possibility of leaving some gear, as there aren't a lot of fixed anchors like the SW face. T-storms seem to roll into the area around noon.
The SW face is "choose your own adventure" climbing. I'd recommend forgoing trying to disipher Hubbel's topo and just start climbing a line that looks interesting. Lots of fun easy to moderate climbing that generally protects well.
Words of caution... the... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Straw Turkey (5.10a)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jun 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the first pitch, I think this is one of those "no move is harder than 10a" routes. Great sustained and varied climbing. The gear is a little thin if you want to protect the mantle move directly, and if you don't, the fall would be unpleasant.
It doesn't get much better than this.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Jun 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing is thoughtful and continuous, but the rock is either chossy or dirty. This one will take a long time to clean up, if ever.
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