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Member Since: Dec 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 24, 2014
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Point Rank: # 931
Total Points: 654
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has TBD been climbing?










Contributions


All 417 | Routes 34 | Areas 5 | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 154 | Posts 33 | Stars 116 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Below the Amphitheater : Snow Globe (5.10-)
By: TBD When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: If someone is up there with a drill and wants to add a third bolt before reaching the crack as Dougald suggests, I have no problem with it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : West Cracks (5.9)
By: TBD When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: I started in a crack almost directly below the roof (a touch to the right) and followed a mostly direct line through the roof to the top of the formation in 1 long pitch. Done this way I think it is one of the better 5.9 pitches in Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Indistinction (5.8)
By: TBD When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: I swapped the locations of bolt hangers and added a quick link to improve anchor. It's much better now.

Too bad the starting hand crack doesn't go on for 80 feet....


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Amphitheater Area : Photo
By: TBD When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: The obvious crack system through the middle of your photo goes at 5.11. FA John L., ground up, named Expatriate. To the left is a thin crack, in the 12 range.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Mare's Tail (5.9)
By: TBD When: Nov 30, 2010

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Comments: The natural start to this route seemed to me to be Edgar Rice Burros (5.10). No need for an intermediate ledge traverse. Done this way, it makes for 2 pitches of excellent climbing and a short scramble at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: TBD When: May 26, 2010

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Comments: The grade isn't really that important to me, but for context this feels harder than the first pitch of Genesis and at least as difficult as the crux on the Northwest Corner.

Fun little route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Curtlovesugly (5.11a/b)
By: TBD When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Perhaps I missed something, but pulling past the second bolt is a long tenuous reach that seamed much harder than anything on Bye, Bye Butterfly.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Bye, Bye Butterfly (5.11c)
By: TBD When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route that may be easier if you are taller.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Don't Go (5.9+)
By: TBD When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: One hard pull at the bolt establishes you in the crack/ corner. Fun and easy climbing above with good gear.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : She's a Moaner (5.9+)
By: TBD When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: This is a good warm up to the more difficult Ben Dover. Some thoughtful moves above the bolts.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : Chimney Rock
By: TBD When: Nov 25, 2008

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Comments: I strongly suggest NOT taking the "safe option" approach. We had a dog with us and decided to approach that way. It was ridiculously unpleasant. My 2 cents, if you can't manage the short scramble, find somewhere else to climb. Great routes though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Central Corner (5.10a)
By: TBD When: Jun 22, 2008

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Comments: Great pitch that looks harder from the start than it is. Best approach seems to be the 5.7ish slab route with welded cold shuts.

I think a single set of cams with two #4 Friends (an extra #3.5 would work, too) protects this well. I brought doubles in the hand sizes and was good with a single #2.5, 3, and 3.5 Friend. Just FYI for those who don't feel like lugging the extra gear only to sit on it at the belay. There's a few placements on the face for smaller stuff.

Descent:... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Slip Slidin' Away (5.10c)
By: TBD When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: Very fun climb. The small amount of vegetation adds to the ambiance. The first half of the climb definitely keeps your interest.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: TBD When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: This is sort of a one move wonder, and the difficult move may be hard to protect if you are short. The difficulty eases off the higher you go. It seems about 5.5 for the top half.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Alcove 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: TBD When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: The start is awkward and dirty, but still fun. The top section is nice jamming, but this section is short and easy.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : No Chute aka Rip Cord (5.10a)
By: TBD When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: I thought this was the best of the alcove routes. Very nice and sustained thin hands.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : True Religon (5.10c)
By: TBD When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: I agree that this route feels harder than 5.10 on lead. Gear placement is very strenuous and difficult to see. The rock is very slick, so all the stances are tenuous. It is much easier on TR, when you can lay it back and fire through the steep start.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : The Taj Mahal : Meat Pipe (5.9+ PG13)
By: TBD When: Jun 10, 2007

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Comments: After climbing this route with John today I had to ask 5.7 + what? It turns out you need to add about two number grades. The difficulty is reminiscent of the narrows on Steck-Salathe in Yosemite. The route is about 130 feet of pure squeeze/chimney climbing with a little off-widthing in the beginning to get established and a few fist jams near the top. This route seems to me to be about as good as this type of climbing gets. To locate this route, it is the dark slot shown on Hubbel's drawing... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Murphy's Dome South Face : Pork Meadows (5.10b)
By: TBD When: May 28, 2007

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Comments: I think this route is closer to 5.11 moving past the second to last bolt. Probabably 5.10 getting to this point. Several friable edges on the top portion of the route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: TBD When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: A very fun outing, an excellent route. I found the openning moves getting established on the slab to be fairly straight forward. I thought the crux of the route was the next several moves between the 2nd and 4th bolts of the first pitch, felt solid 10. Funny how that goes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Dereliction Affliction (5.11b)
By: TBD When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: Very fun climb. If Lats is 11c, as it says in the new guide, this thing is 11a or easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Decider (5.10a/b)
By: TBD When: Jul 4, 2006

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Comments: The good rail just below the first bolt is a tad hollow. Consider clipping the first bolt prior to cranking on this hold.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Misunderestimate (5.10b/c)
By: TBD When: Jul 4, 2006

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Comments: Fun climbing with a few crux sections. There are a few hollow sounding jugs, so crank lightly.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: TBD When: Dec 12, 2005

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Comments: I didn't notice this the previous time I was on this route, but the chockstone at the top of the second pitch with the slings/ rap rings is loose. Consider this if you decide to incorporate it in your belay anchor or decide to rap off of it.

It seems fine for a straight down pull, but the outward leverage it receives if you use it as a hand hold could dislodge it. It also wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I wouldn't be surprised to see it gone someday soon.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Green Zone (5.11a)
By: TBD When: Sep 11, 2005

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Comments: Quite good.

I think it's easiest to skip the first bolt (a spot is more than sufficient to protect the one thin move before jugs) and just bump one quick draw up the 2nd, 3rd, and leave it at the 4th.


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