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Member Since: Nov 21, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 291
Total Points: 1,884
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2924 | Routes 112 | Areas 3 | Photos 54 | Page Improvments | Comments 449 | Posts 941 | Stars 1300 | Ratings 65
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : ... : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: The story? Not so terribly exciting but here it is. The crew went out to do the Anacram after warming up. We had all heard different things about the route, including Jingus Gear, Hard for the Grade, Easy for the Grade, Impossible if your Fingers are Still Greasy from the Chips, Really Not so Bad and Certain Death.

So I get up there and place a green alien. One of the boys seemed to think I'd need another one, so the ground crew tossed one up, that spot of time recorded here by Ryan Kelly... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Big Hunk : Big Hunk (Southwest Face) : ... : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: You forgot some steps:
4) Send route.
5) downgrade route after your friend falls off in the spot pictured here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Twitch (5.11) : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Dec 6, 2011

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Comments: Just to be clear, the scratched additions to the Twitch plaque were not done by me.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Wacked Scenario (5.10b)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 30, 2011

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Comments: It is a sport climb and a good one.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Humble Pie (5.12+)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Great photos. I recall one of the mags doing an interview a few years ago with Eric DeCaria, featuring this route and saying it was his.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Santa Cruz (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: As Susan said, that line directly above the 1st pitch anchor is fun, easy climbing on very featured rock. Maybe 5.5 or 5.6? But pretty cool. We TRd it after doing Santa Cruz, but it could be led safely with a few pieces and tie offs.

Santa Cruz itself was pretty nice, bullet rock with good exposure.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : Life in the Fast Lane (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 26, 2011

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Comments: This is a really fun pitch on a neat feature, recommended. Doesn't get the traffic it deserves despite 2 stars in the Vogel guide, and that one is rather parsimonious with the stars! Probably the traversing nature of the route, both climbers need to be solid.

I believe this is just "Fast Lane" in my older Vogel guide. Good name, since it is the left dike.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Prejudicial Viewpoint (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: This thing is pretty strenuous and very fun. Good physical moves. The crack at the top is a little dirty from lack of traffic but no big deal.

We also did a variation that was worthy. Start up predjudicial viewpoint and just above the horizontal step left and climb up cool patina flakes in the black streak visible in the photo. Likely been done before because of some broken rock, but very good. Fun face climbing in the low 10 range.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Campfire Crag : ... : Campfire Girl (5.11d)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: Good crack. The upper face is fun to the first bolt. The moves around the second bolt are totally baffling and fully grainy. If you can get through that bodylength the stuff at the top is mellow. I'd call that bit 5.12. I'd also say not to bother with it and just do the excellent 5.8 crack to the low anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Wall of 10,000 Holds (5.4 R)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 23, 2011

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Comments: I only counted 9,996 but maybe I missed a few. This thing is a really fun solo.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ranger Station Rock : Hercules (5.11c)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 23, 2011

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Comments: Was out at the Hercules today. Talked to another party that saw a bee in the crack and opted not to do it. I threw the toprope on it anyway... no problems! With bees that is. Maybe just cold enough right now they are dormant? No signs of bees or a hive in the crack.

Also, I think this thing is very tough for .11c. The crux is short but pretty fierce, and the crack is set back a ways in the poddy things which made for awkward jams fighting my own forearms. Plus the thing is steep! Overhan... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Flight Simulator (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: I tried to call this thing .10d after I did it but just got a look of disgust from a long time Eagle Lake climber. Must have just been having a good day.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : ... : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Nov 19, 2011

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Comments: The climber's expression is great, but look at all that trippy drippy granite in the background! Amazing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : C.S. Concerto (5.8)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: Cool, thanks. The supertopo has them backwards.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: Finally found the Surprise, 4 years later! Funny that the description above says The Surprise is not as classic as Munginella or Commitment. When combined with Werner's Ant Trees, this is the best of the Open Book routes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Werner's Ant Trees (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: No bolt but the thing laces up with great small nuts, so bring plenty. Probably not .10c either.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : My Idea of Fun (5.12d PG13)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 9, 2011

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Comments: Cool vid of some hard climbing in Josh. Nice bits of history there too. Thanks.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Sandworm Rock : Unknown (Sandworm Rock) (5.10a/b)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Grade is a guess, the true crux is battling the loose rock. This one should clean up with more traffic.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 6, 2011

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Comments: Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?

Originally given .14a by TC.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 5, 2011

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Comments: Stellar route. 1 pitch is the way to go, clipping the first 6 with long slings. I also unclipped the first bolt on the second half of the route, rope ran fine.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Grand Illusion (5.13b)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: I think the Illusion has only been led twice placing all the gear? Suzuki was the first and I think Tommy Caldwell the second. That thing can't have that many clean leads, pink or redpoint. Never been onsighted...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Bleu Plate Especial (5.9+)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011

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Comments: This climb has 4 bolts on it, the first is a glue in. Some engaging moves on the lower section. Standard Josh grain ball bearing detract from the climbing, as does the ledge halfway up the route you could park a car on. Still, some interesting and challenging moves on the bottom half. Felt more like 5.10 to me.

Hey JunkSweat, curious how you know the FA party names but not the name of this route?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Right Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011

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Comments: Rowdy handcrack! Kick ass!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Tails Of Poodles (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011

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Comments: Good climb, lots of solid fists in a corner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Super Heros Wall : Elmer Fudd (5.11b)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011

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Comments: There is a 5th bolt right below the chains with no hanger. What's the story on that?


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