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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?
Originally given .14a by TC.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route. 1 pitch is the way to go, clipping the first 6 with long slings. I also unclipped the first bolt on the second half of the route, rope ran fine.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Grand Illusion (5.13b)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the Illusion has only been led twice placing all the gear? Suzuki was the first and I think Tommy Caldwell the second. That thing can't have that many clean leads, pink or redpoint. Never been onsighted...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Bleu Plate Especial (5.9+)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has 4 bolts on it, the first is a glue in. Some engaging moves on the lower section. Standard Josh grain ball bearing detract from the climbing, as does the ledge halfway up the route you could park a car on. Still, some interesting and challenging moves on the bottom half. Felt more like 5.10 to me.
Hey JunkSweat, curious how you know the FA party names but not the name of this route?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Right Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rowdy handcrack! Kick ass!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Banana Cracks : Tails Of Poodles (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb, lots of solid fists in a corner.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Super Heros Wall : Elmer Fudd (5.11b)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a 5th bolt right below the chains with no hanger. What's the story on that?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Kaleidoscope Wall
By: caughtinside When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looking at the guide, there are 9 routes, all of which get stars. There's more like 6 or 7 actual routes with a couple fun and short variations.
Also, I think the vogel approach description makes it a little tough to find the crag, we cut up too soon and had to thwack around for a bit. If you approach from any other direction you can actually see the crag. If I theoretically were to return, I'd approach from Trashcan parking and just go past the White Cliffs, or even just at a pullout direct... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Hitman Rock : The Bruiser (5.10b)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not much lover for the Bruiser here! I thought it was the best climb on this formation.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Hitman Rock : Skinwalker (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route is mislabled in Josh West. I did the 'route' with the line labeled skinwalker and it was a seam, to a face traverse to a handcrack. The description says seam to roof to left crack. Seam to roof to left crack is pretty good. seam to face traverse to handcrack is awful, the face is full grain exfoliation.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Hitman Rock : Enforcer, The (5.9)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start is way funky and pretty tough for .9. I'd call that start .10a.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good colors in this one!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Thin Red Line (5.12c R) : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Oct 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shots of some classic Josh sketch. Who's the climber?
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : ... : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Oct 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, the climber pictured here is indeed El Senor.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : One Of These Days (5.10b/c)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route reminded me a lot of Lunatic Fringe. A number of different 5.10 moves separated by great rests, long pitch. I think where the crux is on both routes is going to depend on your personal strengths as a climber, but I did feel the individual crux moves on Lunatic were harder, but that the rests on Lunatic were better since that route isn't as steep as These Days. Pretty similar in overall feel, and both routes eat stoppers.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: caughtinside When: Oct 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing was fantastic, probably the best 5.9 we did at the City. Do yourself a favor, don't traverse to the chains at mid height, there is still 60+ feet of worthy climbing to do. The whole route sews up if you keep your eyes open except for the finish which is well below the crux grade, so no R rating is warranted. 2 raps to the ground with a stop at those sport route chains.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Miles Of Piles Rock - West ... : Winds of Whoopee (5.11a)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 what Murf said.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would not describe the 2.5 feet of 4" crack as OW since it's trivial to reach past it on good jams. This section does provide a great spot to stuff your elbow in and take a rest though. Fun climb, although I think that the pin is sorta silly. Any normal biner stickclipped on there is going to be loaded on the nose. Time for a bolt.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're mostly climbing 5.10, this route is a great rest day activity as a simulclimb. 30 minute approach, take 20 draws and do it with a couple changeovers. Nothing strenuous, nice summit.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs Plot Boulderin... : Jake D by the Sea (V0+)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has the look of an insta-classic!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Crown Royal (5.10c)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went back and did this one again last week, I was curious to see how Mark and Shaun's cleaning efforts changed the climbing.
I'm pleased to report that the route climbs great, the holds may be bigger now. There is a big orange scar up and left of the crux, but the crux goes on big sidepulls and flakes.
Remember, climbing loose rock is a skill. Be deliberate, be delicate, pull down not out, and if you don't like to climb choss stick to the routes in the supertopo guide.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Wright's Lake
By: caughtinside When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The supertopo calls that one Acrobat, .12a.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range Rock (tem... : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/b>>>
Nice writeup and great photos of the 2nd ascent of this one.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Magnum Force (5.10b)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: no doubt! Just did it again... still crusty and that bouldery start is still vicious. Got a cramp in my neck right after I did the mantle!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap
By: caughtinside When: Jul 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy there... the Lodge is a great resource for climbers and worthy of our support. The food has indeed varied in quality over the years. I wouldn't describe it as terrific, but it currently is decent and reasonably priced.
You can get showers there for $5 as well.
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