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Member Since: Nov 21, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Total Points: 1,896
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3051 | Routes 112 | Areas 3 | Photos 54 | Page Improvements | Comments 461 | Posts 992 | Stars 1363 | Ratings 66
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Cheap Shot (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: Cheap shot is mostly a plumb line with zero fixed gear. I recall the first pitch of north face having a bolt a pin or two and doing some wacky step right under a roof before turning it. It also had some loose stuff on it. Both are likely mungy. They only start like 15' apart I think.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Sandworm Rock : Master & Servant (5.11d)
By: caughtinside When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: It rivals The Big Todd in radness. Did you try the other crack?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Foul Fowl (5.6)
By: caughtinside When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: Ha ha! I tried to 3rd class this thing and nearly perished! 5.6... What comedians!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Uncomfortably Dumb (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: 2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. A stick clip or a stiff draw is a good idea.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Wreckage Wall : Confusion Tactics (5.12a)
By: caughtinside When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Everyone cries about that bolt placement but it's in the only spot that had good rock and isn't hollow.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch and Go Face : Touch and Go (5.9) : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Saw this on the front page, terrific shot. Nice eye, Blitzo.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Doomsday (5.9+)
By: caughtinside When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Those look like the 5/16ths ones (i.e., bigger). I found those very difficult to pull, and have heard similar from others. I've only removed 4 total though, and I had a tuning fork. I remember thinking a 2nd tuning fork would have saved me a lot of time and effort.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall
By: caughtinside When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Those are probably an anchor for a high line.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Cheap Shot (5.10a)
By: caughtinside When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: I scrubbed this corner out 3 seasons ago looking for an FA but my dreams were crushed when I found the rusty Lost Arrow. Jay Smith told me he didn't remember leaving a pin but that the old 1986 white guidebook had an accurate drawing of the route, so I figured it was cheap shot once I took a second look.

Route is really quite cool and climbs steeper than it looks on great fingers. There are two scary loose blocks on it that are obvious but easy to climb around. They are a little wedged and I w... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Somewhere n00b : Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy... (5.11b)
By: caughtinside When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Wow. Where to even begin. So many transgressions to such a proud route!!!

First, you guys changed the grade on this climb. I listed it as .12a, because it was 12a before some tossers aggressively cleaned the holds into jugs. Way to drag it down to your level chippers! But the fact that my opinion of this climb was changed to .11- without my consent just shows that ethics don't exist on the internet.

Second, a couple guys bolting in bad style which had already been led in good style! And t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Beaver Boulder : ... : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Fun topo. I bet it changes seasonally though. I was scrambling around out there a few seasons ago and this rock had over 20 fixed heads.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : The Emeralds : The Benches : ... : In and Out Urge (5.11b)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: letters, not numbers. I thought this thing felt .11b-ish.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Echo Lakes : Billy Land : ... : Path of Light (5.8 PG13)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Nice to see you posting routes, Blitzo! Miss you man.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : The Emeralds : The Benches : ... : In and Out Urge (5.11b)
By: caughtinside When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Maybe a little more iron in the diet. Puffing this one up two letters? Come on now.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Jailbreak (variation) (5.10b R)
By: caughtinside When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: This page has changed names.

I don't think this climb is Jailbreak, this is in the old guides as a variation to the direct.

Jailbreak is a dirty right hand start variation to the regular .7 surrealistic pillar start. You start in the same spot but instead of traversing left early, you go straight up through a 3' or so right facing flake and into crufty dikes.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Always enjoy seeing things through Blitzo's eyes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Continuum (5.8+)
By: caughtinside When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: I was sitting 3 feet from Will S the first time I heard the "awkward" rant.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Continuum (5.8+)
By: caughtinside When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: If a climb is awkward for you it means you don't possess the technique to climb it smoothly. There is no awkward rock or awkward rock climb, only awkward climbers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Bleu Plate Especial (5.9+)
By: caughtinside When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: I probably should have bombed this after I did it, it truly is a terrible route. But sometimes… that sort of thing just cracks my shit up. I mean, who would put the effort into bolting something so lousy? I had to admit, I had fun climbing it mostly because it was just so damn bad and the rock was even worse. Plus it's only 30' long and has a ledge you could park a car on half way up. And it required a glue in because the rock is so lousy! Won't even hold a bolt.

The beta for this one is ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: caughtinside When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: That photo is over 10 years old.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - Wes... : The Nose in a Day (5.9)
By: caughtinside When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: Standing on a nubbin in my bad shoes in the blazing sun not liking the down climb or the landing convinced me to continue up. Glad/fortunate I didn't crater!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : Blue Collar (5.4)
By: caughtinside When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Both Cornflakes and Blue Collar are drawn as separate lines in josh west. I also toproped a highly contrived face route left of Woman's work several years ago. It all goes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Thunderwood (5.10d)
By: caughtinside When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing is pure entertainment! Pretty fun moves while you grain shower the belay with every move. Take it easy on those flakes.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatte... (5.10b)
By: caughtinside When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: Those button heads are the 5/16" bomber ones. I tested them trying this route on a hot day in the sun.

Do this one when its cool.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Wreckage Wall : Invisible Flying Gargoyles (5.12c)
By: caughtinside When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Cool! I remember trying this this on TR a couple of times over the years. Thought it was some of the best rock at auburn and pretty difficult. I think I did all or most of the moves but was never close to linking it. Have to give it a try next time I'm up there!


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