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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: Casey Bernal When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do people really shoot at the rock?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
By: Casey Bernal When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom -
There is a "NO CAMPING" sign at the entrance to the drainage. I don't know if it applies only to that particular area or if it applies to the whole drainage. There is a flat bench with a fire ring on it, which is ~1.5 miles in.
Also, I would certainly not camp there (or probably even drive in) if there was a forecast for rain storms. I imagine it could take several days to get back out if there were a downpour.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Casey Bernal When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chad - Were you the pair mention in the CAIC report that I posted here: Dreamweaver Avalanche?
If so, glad to hear you both were OK. Hope you find your gear, too.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
By: Casey Bernal When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last weekend the road was in pretty bad shape, probably from the heavy rain storms of the last couple years. Last time I was here it wasn't too bad and now it is a quite challenging drive.
I was able to drive most of the way up the ~2 1/4 miles to the start of the approach trail in a semi-stock Tacoma. There is a cruxy choke in the wash at about 1.8 miles in and there is a sketchy bypass around it. Probably better off with hiking in at that point.
The talus slope trail was in good condition.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Casey Bernal When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure that is the 3rd pitch, leaving the Red Ledge.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Cheap Labor (5.10a)
By: Casey Bernal When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shawn-
I think there are two ways to do the moves past the 5th bolt. 1) You can go up and slightly left, utilizing the micro crimps and balancy footwork. This seems to be the most popular way to go. Or 2) you can traverse straight right under the bolt till you are below the headwall crack-crux-thingy and then go straight up. This way seems to have better holds though it is much less obvious. I have done it both ways many times and certainly prefer #2 (please don't take this out of context.... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ride The Snake (5.9)
By: Casey Bernal When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would recommend doing 3 single rope raps, not a double rope rap, if rapping from the Ashtray Belay ledge. You have to swing to the climber's right each rappel but it keeps you out of the way of rockfall.
Two ropes are only needed to rap from the top, via Rocketman rappels.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista
By: Casey Bernal When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first castles you come to are really rotten. I think they are possibly part of a very old, volcanic fissure. There is also a band of obsidian near them - quite unique and interesting if you are a rock-licking geologist.
The domes and the castle further to the SSE are a very coarse crystalline granite, which is much more solid, and have some great features - golf balls, pimples, horns, and solid dinner plates. The area has been quite explored but not developed - and I get the impression that... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Face Full of Bush (5.10d)
By: Casey Bernal When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: WARNING:
4/29/09 The ample moisture of the last month seems to have loosened the X block between bolts 4 & 5. This caused it and also the two loose blocks below it to come off quite easily (the lower ones were actually holding the X block in). The blocks together were approximately 6' x 4' and more than a foot thick. It is still climbable and possibly easier through that section, but it is really dirty and there are a few small loosies left to go. These blocks left quite a divot at the base of ... more >>
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Location: CO : Buena Vista
By: Casey Bernal When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim - Here is a question I dropped on Buena Vista Climbing's website
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Re: Castle Rock Gulch climbing?
Does anyone know of the climbs here?
I have done a couple of them but I am rather confused on what they are and the rules enforced here.
For example, we started up a nice face filled with golf balls, no nearby cracks, and bolting on lead. We ran into several chopped bolt holes. The climb was fantastic, but rather disappointing to see all... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Route Canal (5.9)
By: Casey Bernal When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a good TR but not worth taking up a rack for.
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Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Casey Bernal When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another vote for a second night. Seems kinda obvious . . .
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block
By: Casey Bernal When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You mean this:
"Crack a Beer" on the Bumbling Stock formation
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wiled Horses (5.13-) : Photo
By: Casey Bernal When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like you are smiling in this photo. Even your mustache can't disguise that.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Made In The Shade (5.9-)
By: Casey Bernal When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. Sustained in rock quality and climbing. Cleaning will help in quality and ease the difficulty a bit.
I echo the comments about a 70m rope being short. I came up short, and even though my rope has lost a meter, it is longer than 115' to ground. 70m = 230' , or 115' rap with one rope. If it is a 125' climb, then you will be short with a 70m rope.
I would certainly support a belay/rap to make it a 2 or 1 pitch climb.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Casey Bernal When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff - Thanks for your recognition and thanks for asking. The basic reason is: time. In addition, the cold-shut hangers have little wear on them. We just have some trepidation about the non-visible part of the bolt. We thought our effort was most efficient by just adding 1 bombproof bolt to an 8 year old anchor, an anchor that a climbing party would be entirely relying on.
I was quite impressed with the Triplex and would be happy to replace the rest. The main downside to that hanger & bolt comb... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Casey Bernal When: Aug 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darren and I added a bolt to the top of the P3 anchors. It is a 75mm Triplex with a Fixe double ring hanger. This backs up the cold-shuts that need to be replaced. It adds a bit of comfort while rapping or lowering.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag
By: Casey Bernal When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "NO PARKING ZONE" is on the SOUTH side of the road. It has been that way since before the crushed car, about 2 years ago.
Parking is permitted on the NORTH side of the road, the side nearest the creek.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag
By: Casey Bernal When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also climbed this "new" route last week. Darren led up the first half with trad gear a couple years ago, before Cheap Labor was complete. The finish has been TR'ed several times using the directional bolt I placed between CL and Lunchmoney. There are several loose/detached blocks and the climbing is just OK, but was never good enough for us to commit to bolting it. It is also really really close to the two existing climbs that are much better.
The anchors are unfortunately cold-shuts, where ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (5.9+)
By: Casey Bernal When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: NSFOD - Please vote for the route grade and quality. We would love to see a consensus developed for each of these. Thanks
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Casey Bernal When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for doing that Sam. I was rather disapointed seeing that pile of rotting webbing, and now I am glad it is gone. It now looks much cleaner and, in my opinion, removes some of the visual impact that the climbers have on the tower. Thank You.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Body English (5.9)
By: Casey Bernal When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this is a quality route. Hexes do work really well on this climb. I thought it was closer to 100', though we didn't bring a measuring tape and we stopped at the chains which adds a little. There wasn't more than ~30' of the 70m rope on the ground for the rap.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall
By: Casey Bernal When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found some sunglasses here today and I would like to return them to the owner. Let me know if they are yours.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ride The Snake (5.9)
By: Casey Bernal When: Apr 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to do the first two pitches of Ride the Snake with only draws (there is no trad gear required for these pitches). The next two pitches (3&4) are actually of a different route, Gneiss Roof , and it DOES require gear if you want to avoid possible R/X rated falls. See the link above for more information and some comments about not taking trad gear.
Again, for some "moderate" bolt-only climbing, do the f... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Poker Face (5.9)
By: Casey Bernal When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recovered a few draws this evening (3/20).
I will be very happy to return them to the owner.
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