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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Carl Dixon When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 was my first Eldo 5.9 lead. Onsight. Nice hand jams but tricky insecure feet and positioning.
Stay high on the walk of to the east. We almost got lured down too soon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Carl Dixon When: Aug 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: When starting this route with the first pitch of Rewritten (which is great), you can traverse up and left past the usual first belay and make it to a tree in the gully in one pitch from the ground. From there, you can easily walk unroped up the gully and right across the Red Ledge to the start of Icarus.
On the decent from the notch, rappel ~28m to a tree on one rope, then make a double rope rappel to the last ledge (below the Red Ledge) with a big fat tree, then one more double rope rappel ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Carl Dixon When: Jul 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this in three pitches with double ropes. 1 and 2 can be combined, getting you all the way to the eyebolt at the Crow's Nest. P3 goes down the ramp and over the great airy bulge. #3 cam protects this fine--no need for the #4. Belay at the tree. Our last pitch went up and slightly left from the tree passing to manky pitons and bolts before intersecting the ridge. 5.7R. I didn't place any pro on the last 20' before the ridge and the first 20' on the ridge, and with double r... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Photo
By: Carl Dixon When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Matron was open at the time. I had talked to the rangers in the area the week before, and the had said the closure would be lifted early because there were no nests in the area.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: Carl Dixon When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I skied the Notch with Andy Dimmen on June 15. Simul-traversed across Broadway and up about 50m into the couloir, then soloed the rest to the "Notch". Skied the upper part to the dogleg skier's right, rapped 25m to the top of the choke, downclimbed the choke and some bulletproof snow below it, and simul-skied the last few pitches on belay. Simulclimbed back across Broadway.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Carl Dixon When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route today (8/26/07), and the "bats" that Dave mentions are actually birds. In the middle large lieback flake, I saw at least two birds deep in the crack. They looked like some kind of raptor--small and mostly white with some dark marks. My partner didn't notice them when he led past, but when I followed, they squawked quite loudly. I had no choice but to carefully climb past them and keep my hands out of the crack.
I'm not sure if they have a nest in there, but there were ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Carl Dixon When: May 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was my first ever multi-pitch climb. It was great--five stars. We traded leads the whole way. Cool rock features, great views.
It took me a couple pitches to get used to running WAY out on very little pro, and marginal pro a best. Belay anchors broke all the textbook rules. Once you get a feel for it though, it was fun just charging up on lead. The top belayer works harder pulling up rope then the second does climbing.
I'll definitely be back on this route.
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