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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Cyborg (5.12c/d)
By: camhead When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Petro route, I believe.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Super Mario (V4) : Photo
By: camhead When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a beautiful, ripped, engaged spotter.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Legacy (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 11a at the NRG in my opinion. And yeah, I noticed that last year, there was a fixed climbtech draw about midway for cleaning purposes, but someone removed it. WTF?
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Party in My Mind (5.10b)
By: camhead When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is amazing. Bomber gear, all incut holds, sporty runout at the top. Without a doubt, this is the best 5.10 at the NRG, no exceptions.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Stim-O-Stam (5.11c)
By: camhead When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, just because of its position as an arete at Endless, but it kind of falls short, with a brief, low crux, and really easy climbing at the top. Totally worth doing, but not in the great pantheon of classic Endless 5.11s.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress : Dresden Corner (5.11d R)
By: camhead When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, I'm not sure what the route description means by "protects well to the bolt." There is a cluster of bomber gear once you get to the stance just above the roof, about 15 feet off the ground, but that seemed to be about it as far as gear goes. Other than the unprotected start, I think that a REALLY competent belayer maybe could keep you off the ground at most points on this route, but it is very much an "R."
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Dial 911 (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Oct 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the section below the first roof is harder than 12c; it's the meat of the route with the hardest moves. You can get everything back under the first roof, and the moves past it are 12a, tops. Insanely cool route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Community Effort (5.10a)
By: camhead When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's some quality draw-grabbin' right there! Yeah!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : Rod Serling Crack (5.10b)
By: camhead When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to add to the conversation about the rope getting stuck at the lip: I always just drop a large stopper (can't remember what size) at the lip of the roof, and don't clip it. This keeps the rope out of the crack pretty well.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : Apollo Reed (5.13a)
By: camhead When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't really think that the kneebar/shield move at the second bolt is the crux at all. Even if you were to have to climb it pumped (which you don't), it is not too bad once you figure out what sequence you're going to use. The crux is at the 7th and 8th bolts, with a big move and then some smaller holds.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : Reckless Abandon (5.12b)
By: camhead When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed on the left traverse being off. If you ever find yourself having to flick your rope around the arete, then you didn't do the crux.
This is the only small thing that kind of takes away from this ultra-classic route.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : The Mercy Seat (5.13a)
By: camhead When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting into the lower corner is one of the most awkward moves I've ever done on a sport route: crimp-gastoning tiny pebbles and thrutching up with feet way below.
The final crux is just plain fun.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Sundial Crack (5.8-)
By: camhead When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Joel's comments on the 2nd pitch. You trend pretty hard right to get to the bolts below the crack. I did not do this, and wound up having to make a straight horizontal traverse for about 40 feet. My follower was not thrilled.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : First Buttress : Black Crack (5.12c)
By: camhead When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although I added this route a while back after checking it out from Corner Pocket, I only recently got on it this past weekend. It is really good, and comparable to South Nuttal's Luv Nothing for straighforward, steep, burley cracks; it's seriously one of the NRG's best 5.12 splitters. The first 2/3 of the route are easier than it looks, but the pump builds for the headwall splitter, with way more exposure than you would expect on a singe pitch.
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Location: General Climbing : Expired thread, 2011 editio... : Post : Photo
By: camhead When: Mar 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa, I think that is the "cat!" I never noticed that before.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Linear Encounters (5.11a PG13)
By: camhead When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bashie looks about as solid as one could be, but I've never heard of anyone falling on it. You can also get a pretty good purple tcu in the same horizontal crack. I don't think it really warrants an R rating, or even a PG13.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Modern Primitive (5.12b)
By: camhead When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like a lot of other Endless Wall 12s, the crux moves on this will feel terribly sandbagged until you get them wired. Awesome sequence, but a bit reach dependent.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Area 51 : Replicant (5.12a)
By: camhead When: Mar 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree on the 12a rating. This is one of the region's best.
There is a new line bolted that crosses Replicant at the top of its first pitch, coming in from the right. This gives you the option of avoiding the wide 11b chimney, and instead doing some nice 5.11 face climbing. It also allows you to link the two pitches of Replicant together. Also, there are now bolted anchors at the top of the dihedral. Do it!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Area 51 : Instant Gratification (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard a lot of people compare this route t the very best .11s in the area, like Satisfaction Guaranteed, Legacy, and Bimbo Shrine. I did not think it was that good. Still, worth doing if you're in the area.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : New World Order (5.12a/b)
By: camhead When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, the right start (quick campus move) was pretty key for me.
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Storming the Castle (V2)
By: camhead When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best highballs I've ever done. You keep hoping that a positive edge for your hands is going to appear, and it doesn't! Smeary footwork the whole way.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : The Other Place : Stolen Tiggers (5.12b)
By: camhead When: Jan 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: (more details that I am not putting in the description, so as not to ruin any onsights)
This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a real... more >>
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Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Fiddler on the roof (5.13d)
By: camhead When: Dec 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure that Honnold has repeated it as well.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: camhead When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route. The moves from the second to third bolt, while perhaps not the hardest on the route, are definitely the mental crux. If you blow the final move to the right jug/flake, it would be a kind of messy fall, possibly into the slab if your belayer is slacking.
(DO NOT READ FURTHER IF INTENDING TO ONSIGHT THIS ROUTE)
There are two upper cruxes, in my opinion. The first is a series of small crimps (with lots of chalk, as Lee said), which culminate in a big move. The higher you go, th... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Welcome to ol' Kentuck (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:
equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from.
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