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Member Since: Jun 27, 2006
Last Visit: Feb 24, 2015
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Point Rank: # 466
Total Points: 1,369
Last Year: 397
Last 30 Days: 0
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1559 | Routes 88 | Areas 16 | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 84 | Posts 1173 | Stars 157 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
By: camhead When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: This is a strange description for this area; just dwelling on the heat and winter-ness of this crag. For what it's worth, I climb here not infrequently in the summer; as Jeremy says above, the area around Burning Calves is in complete shad ein the morning, and gets ample tree shade even after that. Around the corner, the Steve Martin's Face/Chorus Line area gets afternoon shade. Will to Power and Sportster do get sun pretty much all day, though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Land's End (Direct) (5.9 PG13)
By: camhead When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, not 9-, and not G, but really fun climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: camhead When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: One of the best 5.7s I've done anywhere. Although it did not look that great from the belay, the second pitch is also excellent, with true, legit 5.4 jugs over roofs.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Long Point : Porter for Recorder (5.11+)
By: camhead When: Feb 23, 2014

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Comments: This is without a doubt one of the best 5.11s in the entire region. There is no section that is less than perfect. I will say that directions to the waterfall/slab/rope descent to the cliff base can be spotty, so don't despair if you get lost trying to find this thing. It's about a 10 minute walk along the base downstream (climber's left) of the obvious Movie Screen feature.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: camhead When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: Hey, while you guys are being safety nazis, maybe we need to point out that she's using a gri gri for trad! Static shockload from hell! They're all gonna die!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Made in The Shade (5.12d)
By: camhead When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.

In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If y... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Moon Wall : Off My Rocker (5.11a)
By: camhead When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Purple or blue tcu is great between bolts 2 and 3. The crux on this route is one of the coolest sequences I've done anywhere.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Cat Food (5.11d)
By: camhead When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: I didn't find the lip turn or above to be grovelly at all: just a few really fun moves up a finger crack. Great route; do the whole thing!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Instant Gratification (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: So, two friends had gotten hosed by this, so I thought I'd mention- at the very too, above the detached pillar, there is another bolted route that cuts off left. Don't take this; go right.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Coliseum : Tobacco Road (5.12b/c)
By: camhead When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Whoa, so much grade inflation on this page. Neither Pod nor Mercy Seat are anywhere near 13b/c, and Tobacco Road feels like standard 12a; way easier than narcissus, in my opinion.

Also, there are now new climbtech permadraws on the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Cyborg (5.12c/d)
By: camhead When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Petro route, I believe.


Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Super Mario (V4) : Photo
By: camhead When: Dec 7, 2012

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Comments: What a beautiful, ripped, engaged spotter.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Fucoidal Quartzite : Community Effort (5.10a)
By: camhead When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: that's some quality draw-grabbin' right there! Yeah!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Coliseum : Reckless Abandon (5.12a)
By: camhead When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Agreed on the left traverse being off. If you ever find yourself having to flick your rope around the arete, then you didn't do the crux.

This is the only small thing that kind of takes away from this ultra-classic route.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Coliseum : The Mercy Seat (5.13a)
By: camhead When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: Getting into the lower corner is one of the most awkward moves I've ever done on a sport route: crimp-gastoning tiny pebbles and thrutching up with feet way below.

The final crux is just plain fun.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Sundial Crack (5.8-)
By: camhead When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: I agree with Joel's comments on the 2nd pitch. You trend pretty hard right to get to the bolts below the crack. I did not do this, and wound up having to make a straight horizontal traverse for about 40 feet. My follower was not thrilled.


Location: General Climbing : Expired thread, 2011 editio... : Post : Photo
By: camhead When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Whoa, I think that is the "cat!" I never noticed that before.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Instant Gratification (5.11b)
By: camhead When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: I've heard a lot of people compare this route t the very best .11s in the area, like Satisfaction Guaranteed, Legacy, and Bimbo Shrine. I did not think it was that good. Still, worth doing if you're in the area.


Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... : Storming the Castle (V2)
By: camhead When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: One of the best highballs I've ever done. You keep hoping that a positive edge for your hands is going to appear, and it doesn't! Smeary footwork the whole way.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Stolen Tiggers (5.12b)
By: camhead When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: (more details that I am not putting in the description, so as not to ruin any onsights)

This is a really fun route, deserving of more than the two stars that Mikey gives it in the NRG guidebook. For gear, I placed a great horizontal, runnered 3 camalot at the back of the roof. In the actual roof crack, it looks like you want to put a hand-sized piece in the hand-sized pod midway through the roof. However, if you do this, you will not have anywhere to put your hands. There is actually a real... more >>


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Fiddler on the roof (5.13d)
By: camhead When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that Honnold has repeated it as well.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: camhead When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Amazing route. The moves from the second to third bolt, while perhaps not the hardest on the route, are definitely the mental crux. If you blow the final move to the right jug/flake, it would be a kind of messy fall, possibly into the slab if your belayer is slacking.

(DO NOT READ FURTHER IF INTENDING TO ONSIGHT THIS ROUTE)

There are two upper cruxes, in my opinion. The first is a series of small crimps (with lots of chalk, as Lee said), which culminate in a big move. The higher you go, th... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Welcome to ol' Kentuck (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:

equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Appalachian Spring (5.13a)
By: camhead When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Incredibly good route. I definitely second the beta of stickclipping the first bolts after you've scrambled up to the ledge; it's insecure sloping crimps to get to the first bolt. This, like almost all other routes at FRC, recently was rebolted with glue-ins, all by hand, since this is a wilderness area. Many thanks to the folks that took on this task!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: camhead When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: "Cool to see this route on here. Is the number of ascents known? Tommy, Raether, Seigrist, Claasen... Maniac?

Originally given .14a by TC."

Nick Duttle has sent it as well. I can't think of any others. Strong work, mono!


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