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 ADVANCED
getting ready for the final roof series


Member Since: May 1, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Calvino


Point Rank: # 3,016
Total Points: 159
Last Year: 109
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Calvino been climbing?










Contributions


All 149 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 19 | Posts 54 | Stars 49 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Prime Rib (5.9+)
By: Calvino When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: I was thankful for a #5 Brass Offset nut on the first 30 feet of climbing. Gear is sparse, but available when you need it.


Location: WA : Okanogan : Mazama : Fire Wall
By: Calvino When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Parking for the fire wall is 4 miles from the Mazama store and 100 yards before a bridge crossing Gate Creek (unmarked). Recent development includes a couple 5.14s and some fixed draws. The classic climb "Firestarter" 5.12c and the first part of "Urban Refugee" 5.11b now have fixed steel quickdraws. This really helps identify routes and distinguish between lines that are very close to one another. Very fun climbing, worth the trip.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Red M&Ms (5.12a)
By: Calvino When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Very fun stemming, never felt too desperate to find good pro. I used offset nuts, cams to BD #1, a purple TCU, three blue TCUs (green aliens) and 2 yellow TCUs (aliens). I did not use any micro nuts or ball nuts.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : M & M Wall : Stemmin' Ms (5.12a)
By: Calvino When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Great route. Significantly harder than Red M&Ms. I stemmed to the second bolt, then some strenuous two finger pulling, to rock up on the arete. There is a lot of chalk suggesting more stemming, but I suspect it is from top rope shenanigans.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Oyster Odyssey (5.5)
By: Calvino When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: This is now fully bolted (all 25 feet of it) fun little warm up


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Shirley (5.11b/c)
By: Calvino When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I was glad to have an orange Metolius TCU before starting up the crux stemming section.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L... : Crystal Ship (5.8)
By: Calvino When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: Route now has a second (glue in) anchor bolt. The old anchor (ie 3" tree) was not safe.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : Julia's Outcrop (Governor L...
By: Calvino When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: New routes and anchor replacement has been going on this year. Lots of 5.fun climbing, a warm up sport lead far left goes at 5.5, a sweet 5.12(?) through the roof right of saffron spider, and an extension to clicking barnacles. Anyone want to make a topo, so that people have a chance of knowing what route they are on?


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Bellingham Area : The Bat Caves
By: Calvino When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: First off, I love that the only other comments are photos of non-climbers camping on a closed trail... How did you find this forum?

So, the bat caves are closed but it does not seem to be a climber issue if you are not in the caves. Pardon my ignorance, if I am mistaken. The rock is quite good and there is a variety of worthwhile climbing, though nothing to write home about. At the base of Oyster Dome (ie "The Bat Caves") there are a few obvious lines. On the left overhanging prow is a bolted 5... more >>


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : The Heaven of Animals (5.11a)
By: Calvino When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Significantly easier than flight of falcon, stay left on the final roof


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Game Boy (5.11c)
By: Calvino When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: If you are going to the very top prepare to be peppered in the eyes with sand and lichen. The meat of the climb is all before the first anchor.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : B3 (5.11b PG13)
By: Calvino When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: I climbed this a couple days and can't stop talking about it. It is definitely not a hand crack, as the guide book suggests. There was about 10 feet of hands and some very thoughtful face climbing and stemming. This is a bold lead but the crux moves are above good gear. FUN.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : 3 Stone Place (5.11d)
By: Calvino When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: This is a good adventure on decent rock. With super thin face climbing and many endurance roof moves, this will definitely hold your attention all the way to the top. Sure, it is overgrown, but that is part of the fun.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Zapatista (5.12a)
By: Calvino When: Mar 7, 2012

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Comments: This was my favorite climb at Potrero. I liked it more than 3 Stone Place and El Diablo Sendero. Bold Climbing, great exposure, and a wild setting.


Location: UT : Saint George
By: Calvino When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, sleeping bag, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but ... more >>


Location: UT
By: Calvino When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: Heads up.

I had my car broken into at Chuckawalla Wall in St. George Yesterday 20/28/11. My trad rack was stolen as well as a red Rab shell, and a brown OR puffy with Zion Adventure Company Embroidered on it. My girlfriend had her luggage stolen with her purse, all her clothing, jewelry, bike gear, etc.

It never feels good to be violated in this way, and I want to offer a warning to be careful at some of these remote trailheads.

I am posting a list of what was stolen separately, but if anyo... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Vernal Equinox (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Calvino When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Just did this route, and started in a right facing corner, nothing like the one in this picture, but it matched the topo and descriptions I read.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Calvino When: Mar 19, 2011

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Comments: Update for would be dirt bag climbing in Zion

The mosquito cove campground is closed because of the winter floods depositing a thick layer of soft sand that makes driving impossible.

Fear not, there are a few other places nearby to camp on the BLM land. Check out my blog for details on a few choice areas. here


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Calvino When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: For people visiting Zion and looking for some direction on where to start, I have a tick list/guide on my blog here

For beta on what sort of gear you may need click here

Check it out, and climb on!