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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Graceland (5.11c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Meh, first hanger is a home-made red angle-iron type and looks bomber as hell, but maybe that's just me.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it just me or does the third clip risk a pretty serious ledge fall if you blow it? Maybe the terrain is easy there? Broken ankles suck.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Blackman's Burden (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10c if you take the baby-roof direct. There's a nice ledge to deadpoint left to from a R-hand undercling. Then pull up like a thug. If you bail left at the roof onto the chunky stuff it's 10b IMHO and a less interesting climb (the chunky stuff blows the aesthetic on the lower section a little bit).
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : This Bone's For You (5.9)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor bolts are far apart and need something more than just 2 draws.
There are also some big loose-ish blocks near the top which will come down after enough winters. One is huge, but seems to be staying in place for now or I would have trundled it. Make sure your belayer is paying attention and wearing a helmet.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : The Perfect 10 (5.10a)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty dumb. Totally agree with Dave on this one. "Not" is a much better climb.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Snake Rock : Don't Tread On Me (5.7)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pebble-pinching warm-up for climbs on the left of Mesa Verde.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Snake Rock : Iguanas on Elm Street (5.10b)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right-hand slopers on the arete in the top-crux are a bit polished and make this a harder route than it probably used to be.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Phoenix : License To Bolt (5.11b)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hardest 11 I've ever been on. In terms of other 11b climbs, it's way harder than Cool Ranch Flavor (on Morning Glory), and is harder than Embryonic (rated 11d, on Student Wall). Maybe I am too short (I'm 5'10") or was just stupid, but the lower crux felt solid 11d or harder to me.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Halle-Bop (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10d if you don't bail left at the third bolt or bail right just low of the anchors. Otherwise, pretty sustained climbing and the reachy-slopery crux is cool.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Curious George (5.11b)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ashley: Yeah, the climbing gets easy, but the clipping gets scary. I'm guessing the bolt-setter wanted folks to follow the bolts and not bail left but then it'd be a short 11a midsection with a thin 12ish thing at the top, which no-one seems to do, judging by the chalk.
Save your strength, skip this one, and climb one of the fantastic 11s further down the wall.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Spinney Dan (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Consider extending that first bolt to prevent rope drag.
A couple of the nuts were loose with spinning hangers on this one - they could use a tightening. As others said, a little chossy and polished but totally worth it.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : True to Tradition/Tucker's ... (5.7+)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two hangers missing on the lower part of this route, but they aren't necessary. In fact, starting that low could result in a dangerous spine-cracker on the ledge. Just start at the obvious belay ledge.
Easy cheesy and short climbing, but with a nice photo-op. And, how cool is it to climb the dark side of a spire :).
For a warm-up, I'd get on any one of the other nice 8s or 9s on Menses as this isn't really long enough to warm you up.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Period Epic (5.9)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dan, I don't think there's a route between these?
Follow the bolts for a solid 10a crux on sharp pockets. 9ish if you bail right. There is a bolt above the bulge which you can't see from the ground which is an awkward clip if you bail right.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Slender Fungus (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's nice as two pitches because the grade is different above and below the lower anchors. I led the top and my gf led the bottom which was nice. The top is solid 11b, the bottom solid 10c. Linked it's awesome, but is definitely pumpy - the upper crux is legit. I can't compare to No Passion for Fashion cause I haven't climbed it, but it's at least as hard as Silverado on Contest Wall, which Knapp calls 11b.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Lust (5.10d)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hangerless (mistake?) bolt just short of the the anchors? Cool climb. 10d seems too hard and 4 stars seems to many. But, then again, I don't like cracks :). Could easily lose some bolts and be a mixed route, but, whatever.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Devil (5.11d)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid 11b or easy 11c IMHO. Previous comments about bailing right towards the gully at the flaring crack are dead-on. There are also some sidepulls left just above the horizontal sloper/crack which I'd say need to be off-route for it to be 11b. With a little wandering left and right, it's still probably 10c or 10d.
Fantastic climb overall. Sustained with interesting moves. Bolting is very safe and well done.
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Location: OR : Rocky Butte : Silver Bullet Bluf
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shouldn't it be "Bluff"?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Tabula Rasa (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I left a oval 'biner on hanger #5 in mid/late April after having to remove my gear and punt when it started snowing :(. I'm sure it's been cleaned off by now. Just sayin'.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I : Destroyer (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was on this today. Pulled off a couple pieced of dangerous choss that must have loosened up over the winter because I don't remember them last summer. I don't think they effect the grade unless you climb it substantially differently than I do. Adds a foot after the crux, but there's another good foot there anyway.
Still feel like 10c is a good grade. It's essentially a V3 boulder problem that's 15 feet off the ground and surrounded by 5.7ish stuff. Maybe unaesthetic overall but I really dig the... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Pandora's Pebble Pinching P... (5.7)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lovely climb. I have to agree with Tom - compared to other climbs in the area, this is a pretty stiff 5.7. It's harder than Monastic Groove (5.8), for instance. The first clip is okay, but is a little dicey - I don't know if it's the crux, but it's a hard first clip compared to the rest of the route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Mirthmobile (5.10a)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might consider stick-clipping the first bolt. The hardest move (IMHO) is at the first bolt and the fall (on big sharp rocks) would suck. It definitely psyched me out. If you're taller than 6', this won't be an issue for you. The only 10a move is right at the first bolt, the rest climbs like 9.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Upper Y Traverse : Upper Y Traverse (V3)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating on this route is tricky because, if going left to right, it is V1/V2 up to the last few moves. Those last few moves, however, are pretty solid V4 I think, especially when you are worn out from the rest of the problem. The last few moves involve a couple moves down to a jug-match, then a push up to a sloper-match, then three icky right-facing crimps. Don't barn-door!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I : Destroyer (5.10c)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah. The thing is, it's a really short problem. After the pullup to the flake, the rest of the climb is 5.7. The two or three crux moves are solid 5.11 (IMHO), but given how short it is, I think 10c isn't a bad rating.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Caleb Phillips When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just wanted to point out this awesome website for Flagstaff beta (by Chip Phillips):
http://www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/
It's linked to on a couple of pages, but it needed to be in a more prominent spot, because it is really solid and fills in many gaps here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I : Independent (5.7)
By: Caleb Phillips When: Dec 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did a couple laps of this with a friend on a freakishly warm day in the middle of December. We setup a top-rope using the bolts. After the dihedral, there is a traverse right on the "bridge" which feels a little exposed even on a top-rope. After that, we finished the route up the nose to the bolts. Just before the end, you can traverse a little left to some nice granite for a finish that requires some reachy moves to slopers - it's little variations like this which have me giving the route a 5... more >>
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