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Member Since: Sep 8, 2004
Last Visit: Feb 15, 2010
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Point Rank: # 3,684
Total Points: 115
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 63 | Routes 4 | Areas 3 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 20 | Posts 6 | Stars 18 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : The Promised Land
By: BWpete When: May 10, 2008

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Comments: i ave heard from a few people that access to the P-lands is temporarily closed due to construction of the Phoenix lateral gas pipeline. last time i was out there the gate was open in the morning and fenced off in the afternoon. according to the the pipeline company the closure is only temporary, and the area will re open once the line is buried. if you find an alternate route to avoid the pipeline right of way that would be great as thumb and granite are still closed for over a month.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: BWpete When: Jan 2, 2007

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Comments: if you climb 5.9 try a 5.7 at GM the lines are all well worth their grade


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : The Promised Land
By: BWpete When: Nov 22, 2006

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Comments: The promised lands are somewhat hard to find the first time, as there are many roads which crisscross each other. Heading from Prescott take 89north into chino valley. turn right on perkinsvill road. follow perkinsvill road for a couple of miles till you come to hidden ranch road. there is a large sign out front. turn left. after a short distance the road splits, take the left road and parallel the right fork. when you come to a large area that has an eroded dirt pad with ATV tracks all o... more >>


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: BWpete When: Oct 28, 2006

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Comments: the tail of the sling not on the girth seems like it was cut. From the strands on the left side of it, and the rest being cut. I cut 75% of a quickdraw's sling after i retired it, and weighted it till it failed. it looks exactly the same, clean where i cut it but frayed where it actually broke. maybe somebody messed with it and because it was so close to the girth hitch it wasn't seen during the inspection. but i don't know how you can get a break point to look like that without cutting par... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Jumping Jehosephat (5.7)
By: BWpete When: Oct 23, 2006

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Comments: I felt this to be a great route. my first in J-Tree. It felt like a 7 to me, and while the top was slightly run out, it was still a safe top out. I used a BD2 as my last piece and while it wasnt bomb proof it would have held any fall i could put on it. If you are befuddled by the lack of anchors at the top, go up and to the right maybe another 5.7 move up the face, and there are some bolts. This is not good for top roping but works fine for a second.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Swamp Slabs
By: BWpete When: Oct 2, 2006

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Comments: The climbers trail to the swamp slabs area is easy to miss. As you hike in on trail 261, walk for about a mile ad a quarter past the wilderness boundary and to a fence. Turn right (toward the mountain) you will continue to walk up the trail past 2 switch backs. When you see two sticks across a small trail continue up one more switchback to a curve below a 15 foot rock shelf. The trail cuts down through prickly pear before winding up through rock outcrops. Once you hit the rock walk up hill... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Borgoff's Blunder (5.10a)
By: BWpete When: Jun 7, 2006

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Comments: None of the bolts appear to be new, but I found the route (crux pitch anyway) to be well bolted with a mix of half inch bolts with cold shut hangers, and some older pins. The crux was protected by an old angle, but is also just out of reach of the next bolt. If you start on Arch Crack, rather than going up under the large flake, use long slings to avoid rope drag. If you just climb the first pitch, you will probably need 9 draws, and two cams, .75 and 3.5 BD.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Cable Route (5.4)
By: BWpete When: May 5, 2006

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Comments: Hello, I am not as confident in my alpine rock and snow as I am in traditional rock climbing. Is June a good time to climb this route, or is it better to wait until maybe July? I have climbed quite a bit in the Winds, which has some alpine style climbing, though the highest peak I climbed there was 13000 ish, and not technical. Is this a good one for some one with about my experience? Thanks, Pete.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: BWpete When: Apr 22, 2006

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Comments: Well, I think I set a new time record on this one today with me buddy Evan, we did car to top to a bigmontana at Arby's in 3 hours. ha ha. This was a great climb, we made it into 5 60 meter pitches with an average of 2 pieces of gear per pitch, though there was more available. We went off route just after the huge ledge (to avoid entanglement with other groups), but by going right instead of left we hooked up with the ridge more quickly and didn't get caught in line.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: BWpete When: Apr 14, 2006

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Comments: Oh yeah... there is no reason to put any bolts on the second pitch. If people want to run it from the old pins to the top, let them do it. Who is going to fall out of the chimney anyway? But let it go as is for those of us who still like to throw in the cams, nuts etc. There is no question that the line is plenty protectable if you want it to be.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: BWpete When: Apr 14, 2006

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Comments: I have to say that this is a Garden classic. The first pitch is a little sporty, or as sporty as 5.7 Garden gets (excluding Big Sky). The second is worth doing if you have the gear. Despite talk of bad anchors and huge runouts, it is a great climb. I used #1 Metolius TCU, along with #0.75, 1, 2 , and 5 BD cams. It felt plenty solid and enough gear. I did not try the last pitch, but the rap off from the top of the tower was fine, though there was some nice rope drag when pulling... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Devil's Slide
By: BWpete When: Apr 6, 2006

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Comments: Despite other posts about the other lines on this rock, I have seen only one piton (placed by Harvey) the rest of the rock is still virgin to drills and bolts, at least as far as I have been able to tell on my several visits. The steep formation above the dome is filled with cracks some finger, some much larger as for that area, I have not explored, but the rock looks solid. If you are looking for a bolted line don't come to The Slide.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: BWpete When: Mar 14, 2006

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Comments: Eric, there are climbing bans popping up al;l over the country, and it isnt becasue bolts are bad, but there are so many bad bolters. The tower is one of the most unique places i know of, and with all the cracks, i dont know who would make a visit to climb a sport face route. If you feel that there is a really quality line, go talk to the park service and ask them, if you are respectfull of them the rock, and everyone that frequents the tower, they are more likley to be open minded. ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road
By: BWpete When: Mar 5, 2006

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Comments: Almost all of the climbing is on National Forest, but last time I was up there I was told by the locals that to get onto the National Forest area, you have to cross land owned by a Christian camp, they are nice enough people, and don't mind letting the climbers walk across their land, but if you see them be sure to ask them about it, and thank them for their generosity. The largest mass of rock is in the Cathedral Peaks area, some of which was climbed by Harvey Carter, but most of the rock has ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: BWpete When: Aug 22, 2005

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Comments: In reply to the coward. Yes you can use a bigbro, I think it was the blue, but it may have been green. I didn't lead it, or cleanly second it, (it is "harder than Pete") but in desperation and humiliation, I grabbed the big bro and used it like a big old ladder handle. It worked well for then, and now that I am a little better I will say that it is actually good to use a big bro if you are going to bring someone that isn't good with offwidth. What the leader of my party did was had a big bro,... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes... : Crack Parallel (5.7)
By: BWpete When: Aug 2, 2005

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Comments: The route overall is 5.7 but at the top if you try and go straight up after the last bolt gets to be 8 and then past an old angle gets to be "harder than [Peter]" at I would say 5.9, but if you [follow] the true line it is easy. The only other thing I noticed is that at the begining if you [don't] know where you are going it is easy to get off route because there is a pin about 15 feet left of where you want to be.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Super Squeeze (5.10d)
By: BWpete When: Jul 31, 2005

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Comments: The old 1/4 inch bolt was being backed up by a nut and a huge somewhat loose chockstone, and about 15 different slings, so I cut most of the crappy webbing off and unslung the chock stone and [equalized] a [BD] 13 nut and the 1/4 incher with a [piece] of 8 mm cord that is [in ok] condition it is [fairly] bomber now. I was surprised that anyone let it get in such bad condition, it was one of the biggest messes that I have seen, so if you get up there and [don't] like what I did, take out the old... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: BWpete When: May 13, 2005

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Comments: I really enjoyed the climb. It is great for newer climbers either for lead or seconding. I found that the roof moves were rather easy, maybe an 8, but I wouldnt say 8+, the moves are just a little comitting. I climbed up to the roof, brought up my second and then climbed around the roof. Someone left 2 well-placed nuts there, and I think they are pretty much fixed, so if you can't get the roof, then you can bail without leaving your own gear. I would say to rap off the cable pot hole sling,... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: BWpete When: May 8, 2005

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Comments: This climb is awesome, far more fun on lead. When going for the cross over, climb up and clip the pin, then downclimb a couple feet and cross over, this way you can protect the moves, and get in a coule extra moves. I found that just a little trad gear makes the climb a little more enjoyable and less frightining, a #7 BD nut for the runout to the first pin, 3.5 to cover just above the last pin, as it is hanging out there a bit.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : West Face : Monster Crack (5.8)
By: BWpete When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: I lead this up to about 4 feet above the piton, but had to back off when I found the my largest cam was too small (3.5). My partner led the rest of it and used his Bigbros to protect the last few moves up to the top (the green and blue Bigbros). The offwidth section can be done layback, but if you choose to jam it, you have bomber chicken wings, and a knee jam that make it easy. I think the crux is the move from the offwidth/chimney around to the belay ledge.