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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Buzz When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill Wright and I did this on 7/25. We then continued up and onto the North Ridge of Chiefshead. This is a very obvious link-up; we were shocked there is no mention of it anywhere. Spearhead is essentially a protuberance of the Chiefshead North Ridge, so once you get all the way up there, you might as well keep going. "Spearchief".
Chiefshead N Ridge is broken up by talus slopes, but the headwalls turn out to have excellent climbing. The lack of continuous 5th class rock may both... more >>
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Location: CO : Celebrate Eldorado 2008
By: Buzz When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend the Rattlesnake Ramble on Sunday! It's a rare opportunity to do a trail race near Boulder (the City and County both have banned competitive events of any kind on our Open Space). The atmosphere is fun and low-key, it's an excellent course, a lot of climbers enter this, and it's a benefit for ACE. You can usually show up that morning and enter. Hope to see you there.
http://www.aceeldo.org/celebrate_eldorado/EldoradoTrailRun.p>>>>>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Better than Love (5.8 R)
By: Buzz When: Jul 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have no insights; here is a quick TR to make planning easier for others.
7:00 am Friday 7/25/08 - Left Bear Lake Parking. The Shuttle starts running at 7:00 am, they never close the road to cars, but the lot fills on weekends by 9 am. Hike up trail, go around Emerald Lake on left onto pretty good climber path to base.
8:30 - Started up route. The start is to the left of Love and C-B (unlike route description above). P2 is excellent (all foot stems). Routefinding is easy to the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain
By: Buzz When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The was a trail constructed in 1923 to take guests from Zion Lodge to the top of Lady Mountain. A very ambitious route, it was abandoned by the Park Service in the 60's, which means it now is a great scramble route! Best done when it's cool or even drizzly, a rope is not needed, a handline might help, and you have to navigate and look carefully to follow remnants of the trail. It's worth it.
Route description (excellent canyoneering site) here: http://canyoneeringusa.com/utah/zion/
I went f... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Buzz When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If one had those two roofs dialed, 5.8+ might seem right, but onsite I'm willing to say those roofs are niners. The commitment factor of those moves, and the continuous steepness elsewhere, make this a remarkable route. Doubling up on 1" and 2" would really help on P1, and plenty of small stuff for P2.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.8+)
By: Buzz When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a classic, in part because of the great crack, but also because of the rating! If this were done today, it would be listed at 5.9. Back then, 5.10 was the hardest there was, so if you could climb it at all they gave it a 5.9, and if you did it first try it was listed at 5.8.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Buzz When: Apr 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've soloed this route about 20 times so hopefully I know what I'm doing, and Cleve McCarty taught me to climb so I'm more old school than anyone here except George, and this route is solid 5.6. A short person unable to reach one of the solution pockets would have to hand jamb the crack and call it 5.7. Excellent route.
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Buzz When: Feb 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approval has been given for an official trail to the Mickey Mouse Wall (no bikes or horses allowed). This came after a full year of serious effort by the local FCC representative, Tom Issacson. It is slated to be constructed Sept 08. Most of the alignment is clear, but how to approach and cross the tracks is not.
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Buzz When: Feb 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I easily and fully support this trail.
Climbers must spend serious time and effort preserving our ability to access climbing areas; this work is critically important in order to practice our sport. So here is another user group in the same predicament ... do they not deserve our kinship and support? And as others have noted (except for one person, who apparently does not live in this area), mountain bikes have been banned from most trails on public lands in Boulder County;... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Buzz When: Feb 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pfiffner Traverse - LA Freeway. I just saw the query/post from '03. I did Long's Peak to Arapaho, all on the divide, on July 8 & 9, 2002. I named it the "LA Freeway". ("Longs" to "Arapaho", and because it's not much of a freeway; there's some stout sections in there). I did it fairly casually, 16 hrs both days, car - car. Very highly recommended.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.8 R)
By: Buzz When: Oct 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like everyone else says, doing the Touch & Go start creates a very solid route. Here's what we did:
P1 T n G - Even tho I've done this a lot, it somehow remains hard and was definitely the crux of the climb for me.
P2 - Keep the belay at the bolts, walk across the huge ledge and start up the wall heading for a vertical crack. Routefinding is easier and there's pro on this pitch. The roof seems like 5.7 not 8. 2 pins in vertical crack above a small but comfortable ledge for belay.
P3 - Quite ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Buzz When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a remarkably popluar climb on weekends! Start it just above the Fir tree bent around a bulge in base of cliff.
The guidebooks seemed confusing, so did this in 3 perfect pitches, which were natural and logical. P1 is mostly a scramble, up to a massive flat ledge. P2 is continuous, a series of bulges that are awkwardly fun, and finishes on a very large flat ledge. P3 clips an old pin (looked fine to me), traverses onto the face to the right, then romps up a single steepish continuous ... more >>
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