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Member Since: Sep 6, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 31, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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burlap submariner

 
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All 291 | Routes 15 | Areas 1 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 178 | Posts 63 | Stars 22 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : Pendulum Route (5.11c/d PG13)
By: burlap submariner When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: It should def. be noted that when you traverse under the pendulum roof it its easiest to place a nest of gear in the roof or the horizontal crack at the base of the roof at its very end and down climb to the sidewalk ledge. When your second follows you they will leave this gear in place and down climb to you on the side walk ledge, the climbing here is solid 5.9 but the gear is good and essentially you are down climbing 5.9 with a top rope over head. When you start the crux pitch you now have a ... more >>


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Dedication Area : Move it or Lose it (5.11b)
By: burlap submariner When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: climbed this the other day and although Ive had trouble at the dynamic move in the past found this to be a great and challenging route. I think that the crux is not only the dynamic/deadpoint but also the moves getting set up for it after clipping the second bolt. As an onsight I would agree with the 11a grade however if you know the moves it feels considerably easier around 10c/d. In comparison to other 11- routes at this cliff I would say it feels a tad easier.


Location: NH : Humphrey's Ledge : The Dedication Area : Castaways (5.11-)
By: burlap submariner When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: climbed this route for the first time in several years yesterday. Forgot how great this route is, the bottom half is strenno laybacking to a decent no hands rest with gear at your feet and the pin at your shoulder. the slabby arete is an excellent test of body tension and slabby edging technique. I found an excellent high foot that helps you get the balanced position for clipping the crux bolt. Such a fun and hard outing!


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: burlap submariner When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: NHclimber might have some info for you, or at least a funny story about getting caught in a thunder storm out there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park
By: burlap submariner When: Dec 14, 2013

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Comments: How is josh in april? was looking to spend a week there towards the end of the month.

Essentially looking for the following.

-how cold is it?

-If quite cold are there certain aspects that face the sun for tolerable climbing conditons....and if so is it worth coming for 7 days to do so....

thanks


Location: NH : Dumplington Hill (A.K.A. Th... : The Dump Face : Stone Zoo (5.11+)
By: burlap submariner When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: it should be added that this route is 11- R getting into the main crack and even then the pro is thin and tricky to place from very pumpy positions. If you blow the first set of moves getting to your first piece you will hit a ledge then roll down hill.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Up Rope (5.11d PG13)
By: burlap submariner When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: while the lower crux on this route is well protected, the upper slab is thin and pretty run out after the first bolt, If you fell between the two you would prob. hit the ledge separating the slab and the steeper wall below.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Mordor Wall (5.6 C2)
By: burlap submariner When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: I would def say that the hooking on pitch 2 is very easy, hooks with training wheels. The head "ladder" is now mostly dead heads with some reachy moves or smaller moves on peckers on aluminum, either way a fall from the top of the ladder before the bolt would be at least 30 feet, that would warrant A3 if the route is fixed with heads its still C3. I would call pitch 2 "C1,A3 or C3F".

If the last head in the seam has a hook next to it the route has been altered by chipping, which is total fucki... more >>


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof : Dunn's Diversion (5.11b X)
By: burlap submariner When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: there is just no way that the direct line in Dunn's is 12, ive climbed this a bunch of times and its only slightly harder than future shock, which is 11a/b at best. Last Tango is much harder than both but is a short burly boulder problem. try bits and pieces above Loose Lips, if you think that dunn's is 12 then you will find this quite the challenge, strando says the falls are clean. I wouldnt know, I didnt fall....


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Anybody know anything about the condition of White Streaks of Trespass 10+. Its an old Ellms and Tuthill special.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Whats the haps for the bird closures this year? Thinking of coming in the next two weeks and wondering if it would be worth the trip from new hammy.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall : Lost Heroes (5.10c PG13)
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Did this route for the first time yesterday, it should be noted that the crux of this route is down low. I can see how some people could find the roof intimidating however its 5.8 max. This route and the route to its direct right are very good. Thin cruxes near the start with crack or chimney climbing up high.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall : Strychnine (5.9)
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Birds are in full flavor right now, this route should be best left alone, the ravens have chicks in the highest nest.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Anyone know of routes that exist on the north west(slabby) face of liberty cap?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : EZ's Problem (V5)
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: hey mike I hate to have to tell you this but im proof positive that this was climbed prior to Ezra's ascent. Right around 2000 there was a crew from unh or the durham area that I used to climb with, most of the same folks who developed blair woods, I positive Mike shore climbed this around that time.

Case.


Location: NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall : Coyote Rain (5.6)
By: burlap submariner When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: I thought it was named for a porn star?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway
By: burlap submariner When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: found a pair of climbing shoes at blair woods near the valley boulders. pm me with make and size and you can pick them up at indoor ascent in dover.


Location: ME : Katahdin
By: burlap submariner When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: ideally that wont happen anytime soon. check the log at chimney pond. Keep it to yourself.


Location: NH : The Exeter Boulder
By: burlap submariner When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: this boulder and some of the swasey boulders were climbed in the mid eighties, fort rock also has some pretty good bouldering as well. If i were you guys I would look down the street from fort rock where the bridge passes over 101 both sides of 101 heading west, there is some pretty awesome stuff out there.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Abrakadabra (5.11b)
By: burlap submariner When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: the top of the first pitch is really interesting, having a #4 at the top makes for a great piece of mind.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Intimidation (5.10b R)
By: burlap submariner When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: @ drover, If you place the threaded nut at the very bottom of the constriction you will be able to use the groove as a layback which for me was the key to passing the crux.


Location: NH : Crag In The Clouds : The Overhanging Wall
By: burlap submariner When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: Very cool little crag, Cloud 9 is an excellent route, very fun with a cool variety of moves. White out is a nice line as well and a good into to people breaking into the hard 11/12 range, jon is right in that the moves get harder as you go up but if you are taller the moves clipping the chains is a good deal easier. I found it checking in at around 11c/d. If you can get up white out you should tr the face to the left of white out, very fun.


Location: NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch... : Thriller Arete (5.10c)
By: burlap submariner When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: agreed chris, the gear isnt super straight forward but not too devious.
the exposure on this route is awesome for a single pitch. If you can do this route you should climb the first 15 feet of the chimney route then bust left following a pumpy thin crack to the top, not sure what the route name is but its a little harder but super fun.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Steep in the Teacups of Lau... (5.12d)
By: burlap submariner When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: Just when I thought that the "escape hatch" was direct.....Nice work guys, what an amazing opportunity.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Dillard Arete (5.12b) : Photo
By: burlap submariner When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: looks almost like the prow on cathedral ledge in NH, beautiful line.


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