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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Kitchen : Right Corner (5.6)
By: builttospill When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't feel like the top part was the crux, but a simple solution for TR'ing is to use the anchors at the top of the formation, and then redirect the rope through the Mr. Numbers anchors. If climbers want to get to the top, just unclip from the Mr. Numbers anchors when you get there and keep climbing to the next set of bolts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Dihedral (5.8)
By: builttospill When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was harder than it looked. It felt harder than Green Monster to me, that's for sure.
There are two big loose flakes on the route. One, on the right side of the dihedral, moves a couple inches when pulled on. It's a giant jug and it looks solid, so be careful.....it would almost certainly kill your belayer if it came off. The second is smaller and on the left, just after the first loose one. It's a nice hold, but it is hollow, so be gentle.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Main Crack (5.7)
By: builttospill When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think the approach is that bad at all. It's like an 8 minute walk to Red Slab, and it's not that far above that.
The route protects well without doubles in any cam sizes if you bring a few hexes also.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: builttospill When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Combining p2 and p3 is reasonable if you runner things long and don't place too much gear (or carefully place it in line). This makes for one of the best pitches of climbing I've ever done.
The downclimb to the south and down a single rap (or downclimb if you want) seems A LOT easier than 3 raps. It takes all of 4 minutes to walk over to the single rap from a tree with a chain around it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : East Dihedrals (5.6)
By: builttospill When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who chops a fixed nut?
This route is fun, but should definitely be done in two pitches. Otherwise I'm not sure it would be worth it. Not sustained enough, but worth doing if you're in the area anyway.
A good day is to do all three 5.6 routes on this formation (Steort's, East Dihedrals, North Dihedrals). I left out Jig's Up because when I do Steort's Ridge I always seem to do a "Dead Snag highlight tour" in which I start in the dihedral for East Dihedrals, cut right after the small bulge, ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : North Dihedrals (5.6)
By: builttospill When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure we did it the same way as pictured, but the moves from the first belay up and around the corner are stellar. Basically the climb is great except the first pitch, though the whole thing is not sustained at all. Still good fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Black Rose : Tip-A-Canoe (5.7)
By: builttospill When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta disagree that this route protects that well the entire way. A reasonable leader can find gear to trust, but it's not always easy--I wouldn't recommend it for a newer leader, despite the grade. The route is relatively clean now (thanks to those above) but the crack is still dirty. I wouldn't have wanted to fall on at least 1 or 2 of the pieces I placed. The gear on this route felt more like an alpine route than anything I've climbed in Rock Canyon or LCC.
Still fun though. Lots of dif... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Meat Wall : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: builttospill When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, went back and did this route again today for some reason. Climbed the corner above the belay until it no longer made sense and I transitioned to the left side. It really wasn't difficult, and made for a bit more fun climbing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Meat Wall : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: builttospill When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't want to run these two pitches together, given how broken and knobby the climb is. Even with long runners, that would be nightmarish.
I traversed left slightly from the top of pitch 1 (at the belay) to avoid the corner straight above the belay. It looked a bit daunting but I didn't look at it that closely. To the left seemed easier, though it was a bit dirtier and generally rounded. This was a surprisingly fun climb, I thought.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: builttospill When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet Janes, Tingey's Terror and Tingey's Torture are doable in 7 pitches with no simulclimbing on a 60m rope. We simulclimbed for about 20 feet at one point, but it wasn't really necessary.
This climb is one of those, common in LCC, where you can stop lots of places and I never seem to climb the "correct" number of pitches.
We did Sweet Jane's variation in one pitch, and then the second pitch was to a set of chain anchors below/on the slab that is the "terror" pitch.
P3= Slab pitch with bol... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : Squash Head (WI3-4)
By: builttospill When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, it should be noted that you can reach the base of Backoff from the top of squash head with a single 60m rope. At least we were able to yesterday.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Reservoir Ridge (5.4)
By: builttospill When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Brian, I've soloed this route a couple of times. I did again last night. The descent to the East, that I've always done, sucks.
I feel like it would probably be easier to downclimb the route itself than descend the gully to the east (just north of the East face climbs). Loose dirt, moss, and lots of mud in the gully/chimney, make this not fun.
Next time I'll either downclimb the route or downclimb the route partially back to one of the belay stations for the east face routes and rap.... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: builttospill When: Jul 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Calling this route 4000 feet is a bit misleading. People are going to think that there are 4000 feet of class 4 scrambling and 12 full pitches of class 5 climbing.
That is far from the truth. From the Lower Saddle to the summit it is less than 3000 feet (more like 2,700 if I remember correctly). And at least a few hundred of those feet (perhaps 700-800) to Wall Street are non-technical, maybe class 2-3.
Just sayin'
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