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Location: Buff Johnson : Personal2 : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I crack myself up, sometimes
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12+) : ... : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Dec 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Primo bivy ledge.
& with a Guinness holder!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lover's Leap
By: Buff Johnson When: Dec 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a rarity and scary as hell because it's so blocky & usually unconsolidated, if anything. Hats off to Brian for giving it a go; it looks like the line they worked is the typical summer descent area.
You can get lucky (or shut down) on the Standard line with the final off-fingers hand-crack having some ice; but it's a rarity as well.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : The Road (WI3 M4)
By: Buff Johnson When: Dec 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to take away anything here -- some really cool climbs are in this area if you can hoof it and score some luck; a tempermental area at most times.
Discussion as this may have been by John Peleaux and/or Bill Robbins in the late '60s to '70s. Either one were aggressive FAs of this area. Atkins was active here also, but everything he saw was already pinned.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If only a nice water course could freeze its way through the dagger.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In light of "usual depiction", this is Elephant Rock or Cock Rock in Pine (now called "Pine Grove"); the Sphinx is just one part of it; the block on the upper right if looking at it from Pine/Roadway up coming from Pine.
Maybe due to Boulder's already existence of an Elephant Rock as for some reason of clarity for Boulder-ites to tour'on down here, this formation got tagged with a route name.
(No, "Sphinx Park" refers to the natural occurrence of everything in the area, als... more >>
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Location: CO : Rope Access Course - Denver...
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm posting here to offer some good advice to climbers really coming into their own in technical terrain.
"What the **** is SPRAT?"
When most climbers think about the possibility of making a living using their technical skills, typically you think of getting into guiding or maybe try going at the pro-sponsored level. But realistically, how many people though are really at that level and can maintain it as a profession?
The simple fact of the matter is that while climbing is ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs : The Road (WI3 M4)
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overall should be about 4.5 to 5 from Echo Lake; it's a somewhat tempermental area usually considered for early season if you can get ideal conditions.
I don't think this area holds snow as well as other alpine areas to build good ice as it can be prone to being windstripped and/or sunbaked all around this valley. The pics offered do look like great fun, though.
Cell phones can be hit/miss; having a Spot device isn't all that bad an idea going in here.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lodging "Condition Report" (so to speak):
The Flying H Ranch has an interest in renting cabins to ice climbers.
Contact is Steve and Diane Byrum. Probably not best to put the full contact info on the web as of yet, unless someone has a better idea. No info as to rates.
From Kev:
They're at the end of the spur road on the south (north-facing) side of the Valley. This is the ranch that you hike around when approaching Mean Green, HoB, Moonrise etc. if you opt to drive across the river rathe... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any chance we're gonna get to beer 30 on this?
No offense, but the AF & DCC aren't proving to be much use for this area. Considering, what, about 6-7 years fighting the somewhat exclusive privatization of public lands through the DMP? Nobody has really gotten anywhere and I bet nothing really will at this point; maybe until someone files a good lawsuit. None of us are ever going to list out inventory for these jokers. I've always felt this issue might be a good precedent setter.
But... more >>
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : The Pillar of Pain (WI5) : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In Spirit, Stymingersfink!
Your climbs ended too early!!
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Location: CO : Staunton State Park Public ...
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rescheduled to 11-12-09
& stop playing patty cake with the visual impact crap & open up the Lion's Head to climbing!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Guppy (5.8)
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun line, best to bring a 70.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Triple C must-do route for fun
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a fun route, maybe they can't all be Topo Ocean crimp & friction fests, Bjorn, but so what; the last section gives a good set of moderate moves to finish out.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were on Shane's pace one day; but someone ran a full bbq spread complete with pony keg up from the even-easier side. We weren't about to turn down a few burgers and a keg stand or three.
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Location: John T. Martinez : John Climbs... : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: AH!!!
Oh My God, take the mask off
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Location: CO : Golden : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: They say a picture is worth a thousand, but since this was only 849, this picture just isn’t performing. Okay make it 868; crap now it is 872, no 877, 879, stop it! (882)
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Location: CO : Golden : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, fight The Man!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think only out of respect to the party in question; it should only serve that we should stage some kind of docu-drama reenactment.
The Day of the Ruper Crevice
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs
By: Buff Johnson When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dustin - please farm some ice; I get tired of all that powder around there without an ice park!!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In this pic, you'll see a tag line tied to the climber; some advice here is not to put the climber on a belay and otherwise make sure the climber can release away from the tag line if they need to.
Swift water responders usually have a knife at their chest to cut away anything that snags; and a helmet, you won't last long in this creek during a strong flow without one.
Anyway, just some advice. Any climber would think when they are on belay, they are protected. In a swift-w... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More near Rogers Peak, kinda betwixt the West aspects of Goliath & Rogers; probably better to say it's just these hunking spectacular granite slabs well above the CC Reservoir, hidden in plain view.
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Location: Darren Mabe : "Big Bro's Watching" (AKA: ... : Photo
By: Buff Johnson When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Derek, look at those legs!
You're such a hottie, oh baby, oh baby, oh
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Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Swissco
By: Buff Johnson When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It sounds more like getting to the area is the problem, not the area itself.
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