Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
smiley face


Member Since: Dec 19, 2005
Last Visit: 13 mins ago
Contact Buff Johnson


Point Rank: # 405
Total Points: 1,479
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 0
116 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Buff Johnson been climbing?










Contributions


All 6752 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 213 | Page Improvements | Comments 374 | Posts 6000 | Stars 94 | Ratings 67
Page 15 of 15.  <<First   <Prev   13  14  15

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Fun intro to this place, and fun any other time also. Didn't need to tape up, good smooth handcrack. Screwed myself in the crux (what is called the roof of P2) by using a #4 Camalot in the OW; had a pink tri-cam solid before committing, but threw the #4 in anyway & it ended up getting in my way. I wiggled out with a heel-toe (or opposed smears - I can't remember - I was more upset with myself for slotting the #4). Most of this climb is 5.4 to 5.5; except the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Boulder Direct (5.5)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I combine the 2nd pitch of this climb with a 5.5 route to the right of the big boulder (when I am not going to be in the way). Makes for a better 2 pitch outing for 5.5 climbing. The 2nd pitch is pretty fun, and does get overlooked as compared to Calypso & Reggae.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mesca-Line (5.7)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Good line for the West Ridge. I found my crux the same as in Gary's comment - about 10 feet below the crux.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Center (5.7)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 21, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: The best parts of this route, moderate climbing on good rock quality rock, good protection placements for the belay stations, scenery is awesome, and no touristas. The worst parts were finding just about every seam was a flare, pro was R, and T-storms threats.

Toping out was absolutely amazing. A great alpine climb without much in the way of loose rock or holds, somewhat harder than the First Flatiron East Face (Direct Route 5.6R or 5.6s??).

You'll wander on this route, 2 half (double) ropes @... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 21, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I wouldn't go into this climb with a 5.8 mindset. (I thought 2 stars @ 5.9)

The direct line up to the roof is a grade harder, expect a series of sustained 5.9 moves to get under the roof. I wouldn't consider this section to be similar in technical rating as other trad routes in the area, such as the Arch Rock Route. But this is still a decent route; just expect a little sandbagger section.

I would offer to do the walk-off as you canít really see if someone is coming up the roof from ... more >>


Location: CO : Ouray Ice Festival Results
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: ourayicefestival.com/competiti...


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Bushes of Baelzebub (5.8+)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Fun 2 pitch climb. The beginning section of the first pitch - don't fall. Just when you think you got sandbagged, these beautiful jugs just beckon you to keep going. I was never so happy to see a good set of jugs. The next section has a great crack system & other stuff to get you to the first belay (trad gear & with a stance for 2). At this point you will see the Motor Mouth anchor chain up and right. Either escaping up & down right or straight right (unprotected) is about 5.9.

For the second p... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Motor Mouth (5.9+)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: My impression of this route is one of aquired taste. This route is probably a good one, but I found it left a sour taste with me.

The start is a little tricky, it just doesn't climb the way you think it should. Thanks for ugrading the bolt protecting the crux move, I found it a necessary placement (the crux move is really cool). Aliens worked well on the traversing seam, but I found cams did not offer adequate protection from the lower seam, about 10' lower than a small foot ledge with a block... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This short .9 is a sustained bastard child! Found the use of 2 each #5 Tech Friends helpful, and small gear is useful also. Also, not so obvious, this route finishes with a steep mind-fk handcrack. Good & fun route.

Walk up to bolt station and rap.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Left Handed Jew (5.8)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: The start dihedral has perfect fingers to hands, then to fingers, then to hands; great to practice hand & foot motion.

Also, another variant is to fly straight up out of the dihedral to finish on a slab - very committing, the holds are there, the fall is clean, and the slab angle backs off once you grab the proper holds. In this variant, a smaller alien can be used in the finish of the dihedral as you would not need to worry about rope drag as you would on the short left traverse.

W... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Ragger Bagger (5.8+)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This is about as much fun as you can have at the Perch. Excellent rock quality. I think you may be offered 4 different climbing techniques throughout the pitch (face, crack, OW, & chimney). The crux works you over, but great protection, & a really nice handcrack. I found your left foot placements are key in moving through without pumping out on the crux.

I bring a #5 Tech Friend to slam into the final offwidth. I keep forgetting that the OW is there, but am so used to needing a large cam ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Mighty Young Joe aka Captai... (5.8)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Good technical fist problem, perfect fist jams. Protection was placed before committing, so I don't see how the groundfall potential could deter a [competent] 5.8 climber from trying this route. There are also some good moves up the line to the anchor. I thought this was quite fun & would climb it again.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Arch Rock Route (5.8)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Good moderate natural line on solid rock.

You can really push yourself right off the deck and try a hard (but protectable with large nuts) flaring variant crack that is more .8+/.9. Overall, a nice 5.8 climb; we did in 2 pitches and a walk-off, the first pitch was really fun. The finish OW was not that difficult.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : The Staircase (5.5)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 20, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Could be the best 5.5 in the Platte. Good belay stance for a party of three. If this is your first lead, be aware that on the second pitch right off of the belay is an area that you don't want to take a leader fall. It's a stem & smear problem, but if your head is not into it, you may want your partner to take the reins. A rescue here turned out to be a recovery.

I found, to avoid the rope drag issue, either commit to the short 5.8 OW (more like a .7- handcrack for me), or runout on easy terrai... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Little Dome : Arching Way (5.9-)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Scary but great lie-back past the bolt. The seam before the .8+ move has perfect finger locks (it is peculiar that all the locks are perfect and right where you need them). small pro & a quickdraw with a screamer is all that is needed (or 24"+ Big Bro with block and tackle - See a recent Alpinist for cartoon placement.) - you can put a couple of directionals as you move past the seam and easy up to the tree. 30M rap to ground (goes over Original Sin) - or up & easy with a walk-off.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Little Dome : Flakey (5.7)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: The finish flake was fun - I used tri-cams (3 each #5 tri-cams - the red ones, were perfect) & nuts. The tri-cams probably were better placements than if I had used SLCD cams as the flake was funky. Good fist & arm bar locks - laddered my feet all the way. Tree to finish - has a rap station 30M to the ground (goes over Original Sin).


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Little Dome
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: One tip, there is a fork in the trail, one way goes to the ridge leading up to the Dome area; the other to the Sunshine Wall. If you want to go to the Little Dome/Dome, don't take the trail fork going right. Our thinking had us cut through a gully and end up fighting a boulder field all the way. Man that sucked.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Jolly Jugular (5.6)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Fun jugfest dihedral. The .7 finish variant was fun too. Rope drag to the tree is a bitch - climbed this 4-5 times, can't get rid of the damned drag. I used 60M to get to the tree - probably the cause of the drag problem is going for the tree, but it's such a good anchor.

This climb is less intimidating than the flakey Armaj Das is for a new trad leader.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Killian's Dead (5.6)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Fun little trad line. Taking the roof straight through instead of working the jugfest right-side offers more of a .9 (I really like this harder variant - really good crack moves); the crux .6 crack move is really committing for a lead, just trust the feet.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Deck Chairs on the Titanic (5.9+)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Nice sustained slab climb. I'm a little too tall to feel the effect of double digit climbing on this start. The .8 crack variant is a fun couple of moves also.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Big Dihedral (5.8)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Fun line, a pink tri-cam can protect after the small overhang, red-tri cam looks like a good placement but is too big. See Matt's comment above for pro.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Classic Dihedral (5.7)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 19, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Great natural line!

If you want to find out if you enjoy trad climbing, this is your first real lead. The route is getting a little slick due to all the traffic, but totally protectable. This lead is amazing endorphin rush as compared to seconding or TR-ing it.

The final off-width section, just clip all the slings around the chockstone and go for it as a lie-back, there is a hold that saves you in the end of the section. Don't try to chimney or suck yourself into the final off-width (you will... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 18, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: DO NOT TRY TO RAP THE FACE WITH A SINGLE 60M, you won't make it to an anchor position.

A single-rope rap route is in place through the side gully.

The approach; I expect climbers & JeffCo will be working on a better approach to the crag to mitigate the creekside erosion, I think most will agree with me in this respect. Monty offered a good tip: don't head straight up the hill from the creek. Once you get on the far side of the creek, walk about 50' to the west and you find an establ... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Lover's Leap (5.7)
By: Buff Johnson When: Jan 18, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: 2 pitches plus a short crux, you can get the first pitch at a soft 5.7 if you start just to the right of Unknown 5.9 boltline. The start of the first pitch is what gets everyone baffled that are new to the climb; if you go for an obvious crack (Where Tunas Flop .10b - aptly named), or go way right (5.4 to 5.5 - possible rope drag) you can have some troubles. Start to the right of the bolt line, look up to see a goal post in the top of the rock, that's your goal. Double length slings on... more >>


Page 15 of 15.  <<First   <Prev   13  14  15