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Member Since: May 27, 2009
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 11,549
Total Points: 16
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 381 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts | Stars 361 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Climbing Battalion of Saints (5.10) at Battalion of Saints Wall.

Climbing Battalion of Saints (5.10) at Battalion of Saints Wall.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Battalion of Saints Wall

Jul 7, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Steer It Up (5.10)
By: Buddy When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Can this rope be done with a single 70m? Wanted to get on it, but wasn't sure if I'd be able to get back to the ground with one rope.

Thanks!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Buddy When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: The climbing is pretty straightforward to the high first bolt. If you are comfortable with heights and a confident climber, it should not be a problem. If concerned, there are plenty of places low to plug some gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: Buddy When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route during both dry and wet conditions. The lower pitch gets wet, but the jams are solid even while it is raining. The upper pitch (and crux) stay pretty dry during rain, as a slight overhang above provides some shelter. I don't recommend climbing Satan's during wet conditions, but lightening and thunder forced a quick retreat from the summit, and abandoned gear on the route required recovery. Good times.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Battalion of Saints Wall : Bottled Violence (5.9)
By: Buddy When: Jul 7, 2012

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Comments: This must be the route on the far right, as indicated in previous comments.

The last route on the left starts in a funky corner, on the slabs. By starting directly below the first bolt, I thought this was much harder than 5.9, more like a hard .10 or even .11. Perhaps I was not supposed to start deep in the corner, but it seemed to make sense. After the 3rd bolt, it eases up to 5.9. Cool moves on the face after the 3rd bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Buddy When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbed Black Streak on the 4th of July. Very little snow remaining at the base of the climb. Linked pitches 2-3 and 5-6 together, as suggested in previous comments, using 70m rope. For pitch 7, followed the 3 bolts up the direct start, used a #1 Camalot mid-way through ~35 foot run-out, then followed 4 more bolts, trending to the left, to the summit. Walked off. Beautiful day to be in the mountains.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Humble's Tumble (5.9- PG13)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. I thought it was 5.10, but I am an amateur in off-width cracks. I just plunged deep into the chasm and felt pretty solid working my way on up. I built an anchor at the top (to reduce rope drag which would have been horrendous if I went straight over the the chains), as well as clipping the rap anchors, to lower off and top-rope another climber up to clean. 70m rope was fine.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Mystery Bolter (5.9)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Great rock with scenic views at the top. The start is the most challenging part. Lowered off with no problems using a 70m rope.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Short Circuit (5.10a)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Forgot to read the comments or check the guidebook before climbing this route. Saw some bolts and went for it. Ended up running it out until I was able to traverse a little link up with Live Wire. Then ran that out for a ways from the last bolt to the top. All in all, fun routes!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: Buddy When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: I followed Glen's chimney advice, and sent it bottom to top. Love the old piton.


Location: MN : The WAZ (Rochester)
By: Buddy When: May 27, 2009

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Comments: I do consider myself lucky having climbed the Waz.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Tribal Boundaries 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock

Chinese Freedom 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall

The Viewing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Coffin Buttress

Tick Fever 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Wheeler-Newsome Wall

Skyline 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire

Two Tone Zephyr 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area

Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area

Colossus 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bath Rock - West

Arachnid Tendencies 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Large Roof Area

Swiss Cheese 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Anteater - West

Needles and Pins 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Large Roof Area

Roof Burner 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : The East End

Dead Dog Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : The East End

Barnburner 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall

Tank Trap 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Visionary Wall

Zebra/ Zion 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

Vomit Launch 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

Durrance 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach

Lander Turkey Shoot 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Inner Outlet

Barber Route 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Superpin

Cerberus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

Threading the Needle 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Needle's Eye

Animal Cracker 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock

Needle's Eye 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Needle's Eye

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