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Horizontal dike sport route in J-Tree. Photo credi...


Member Since: May 27, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 414 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts | Stars 387 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Horizontal dike sport route in J-Tree. Photo credi...

Horizontal dike sport route in J-Tree. Photo credit Darin Limvere.

Buddy : Joshua Tree

Jul 15, 2015

Climbing Battalion of Saints (5.10) at Battalion o...

Climbing Battalion of Saints (5.10) at Battalion of Saints Wall.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Battalion of Saints Wall

Jul 7, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity
By: Buddy When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this area for the first time, and was a bit worried about loose rock based on the MP comments for the area. I was pleasantly surprised to find the rock solid and clean, shade and comfortable climbing temperatures, and the routes long, well bolted and very enjoyable. We had no issues with rock fall or blowing holds.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Persephone : Hero Of Canton (5.11a)
By: Buddy When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: All cruiser until the last few moves; the last couple bolts to the chains are .11a. Encountered no loose rock.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Persephone : Our Mrs. Reynolds (5.10c)
By: Buddy When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Beware of the pokey pocket near the first bolt. Encountered no loose rock. The final moves to the chains gave me nice pump.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Eavesdown Docks : Firefly (5.10c)
By: Buddy When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Favorite climb in the area. The moves through the upper overhang were thrilling. Thoroughly enjoyed this pitch. Did not encounter any loose rock. Good to go!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Eavesdown Docks : Browncoat (5.10b)
By: Buddy When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Bomber rock. I had no concerns regarding any of the holds blowing out. Go for it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Serenity : Eavesdown Docks : Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betr... (5.10a)
By: Buddy When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Long and fun. Great .10a warm-up for some of the harder routes at the crag. No loose rock was encountered - I think this crag is cleaning up nicely.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Steer It Up (5.10)
By: Buddy When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Can this rope be done with a single 70m? Wanted to get on it, but wasn't sure if I'd be able to get back to the ground with one rope.

Thanks!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Buddy When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: The climbing is pretty straightforward to the high first bolt. If you are comfortable with heights and a confident climber, it should not be a problem. If concerned, there are plenty of places low to plug some gear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: Buddy When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route during both dry and wet conditions. The lower pitch gets wet, but the jams are solid even while it is raining. The upper pitch (and crux) stay pretty dry during rain, as a slight overhang above provides some shelter. I don't recommend climbing Satan's during wet conditions, but lightening and thunder forced a quick retreat from the summit, and abandoned gear on the route required recovery. Good times.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Battalion of Saints Wall : Bottled Violence (5.9)
By: Buddy When: Jul 7, 2012

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Comments: This must be the route on the far right, as indicated in previous comments.

The last route on the left starts in a funky corner, on the slabs. By starting directly below the first bolt, I thought this was much harder than 5.9, more like a hard .10 or even .11. Perhaps I was not supposed to start deep in the corner, but it seemed to make sense. After the 3rd bolt, it eases up to 5.9. Cool moves on the face after the 3rd bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Black Streak (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Buddy When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbed Black Streak on the 4th of July. Very little snow remaining at the base of the climb. Linked pitches 2-3 and 5-6 together, as suggested in previous comments, using 70m rope. For pitch 7, followed the 3 bolts up the direct start, used a #1 Camalot mid-way through ~35 foot run-out, then followed 4 more bolts, trending to the left, to the summit. Walked off. Beautiful day to be in the mountains.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Humble's Tumble (5.9- PG13)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. I thought it was 5.10, but I am an amateur in off-width cracks. I just plunged deep into the chasm and felt pretty solid working my way on up. I built an anchor at the top (to reduce rope drag which would have been horrendous if I went straight over the the chains), as well as clipping the rap anchors, to lower off and top-rope another climber up to clean. 70m rope was fine.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Mystery Bolter (5.9)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Great rock with scenic views at the top. The start is the most challenging part. Lowered off with no problems using a 70m rope.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Short Circuit (5.10a)
By: Buddy When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Forgot to read the comments or check the guidebook before climbing this route. Saw some bolts and went for it. Ended up running it out until I was able to traverse a little link up with Live Wire. Then ran that out for a ways from the last bolt to the top. All in all, fun routes!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: Buddy When: Aug 5, 2011

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Comments: I followed Glen's chimney advice, and sent it bottom to top. Love the old piton.


Location: MN : * Bouldering : The WAZ (Rochester)
By: Buddy When: May 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I do consider myself lucky having climbed the Waz.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Conn Diagonal 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

SD : Custer State Park : ... : Outer Outlet

Prepackaged 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...

Cairo 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas...

Illusion Dweller 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Sentinel - West Face

Moons of Pluto 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Tank Trap 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Visionary Wall

Work Ethic 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Cyclops Area

Screaming Yellow Zonkers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Trezlar 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Dead Dog Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : The East End

Roof Burner 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : The East End

Zion 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

Exorcist 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : East Wall Inner (Exorcist A...

Animal Cracker 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock

Big Moe 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Cove - South Side

Superior Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head

Sinsemilla Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Green Adjective Gully

Godfrees 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

UT : Maple Canyon : ... : Shady Lane

The Perfect Crimb 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Perfect Crimb Area

After The Fall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Green Adjective Gully

Annadonia 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area

Vomit Launch 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

OR : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully

49 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Minimum Crag

Physical Graffiti 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Anasazi Wall

Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Cyclops Area

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