Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Me in the 70's


Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact bsmoot

Point Rank: # 327
Total Points: 1,867
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 5
268 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bsmoot been climbing?










Contributions


All 900 | Routes 60 | Areas 9 | Photos 188 | Page Improvements | Comments 192 | Posts 275 | Stars 160 | Ratings 16
Page 1 of 8.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: bsmoot : People : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, it's about 75-100 yards west.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : ... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jun 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Mountain Dreamer wrote:

"Historical Note: Fred Beckey and Layton Kor actually climbed this route during their 1961 ascent of "The Hook". "The Climber's Schoolroom" was not climbed until 1964."

"This route was widely, but erroneously, published as being part of the Schoolroom route. The latest print guide and Rakkup App corrects this."


Well, if you're that anal about these things. The first pitch of Schoolroom has been grandfathered in since the 60's & 70's because the origi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Appeal (5.6)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: dnaiscool said:

"The only purpose for this route is to get to the anchors on the top of Goodro's Wall..."

Not true, there's tons of beginners who just climb this route, then call it a day.

Update: Thanks James for the bolt replacement!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall
By: bsmoot When: May 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: "Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck."

OK, the following routes now have a new fist bolt to help protect one from decking.

- Pick-Pocket
- Mutation
- Up in a Flash
- Gotta be tall or else you'll fall
- Iron Curtain
- Out of Touch

26 years ago the ground at the base of these routes was actually 2-3 feet higher. There has been a lot of wearing away and lowering of the soil believe it or not. Even so, the old trad mentalit... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Butcher Knife (5.10d)
By: bsmoot When: May 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: ALL of the old 1/4" rawl bolts have been replaced with new stainless steel bolts!

9 protection have been replaced, using the same holes.
1 new added on the runout last pitch,
5 new belay bolts

Thanks to the ASCA for the bolts!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Rumba (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: May 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is only one pitch long, not 4.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Barking Up the Wrong Spider... (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: May 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: When Bill reported first ascents, he sometimes listed his partner first, even if he led the crux.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Red Light District (5.10a)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: At the second bolt the route goes directly under it or slightly to the left...it's not that hard. Everybody goes right, but that's not where the original route goes...be a hero and go left. Problem is, if I move the bolt farther right, then this climb will no longer have the distinction of being "the worst route in the area". :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a heads up route...bashies, pins and non-stainless steel bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Dead Snag Direttissima (5.8-)
By: bsmoot When: Apr 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent moderate route with surprisingly good protection. Cracks seem to appear out of nowhere. If you wander slightly, you can ease the rating down a bit.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Great White Throne : South Face Diagonal (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The big dead tree at the left of the photo is a prominent land mark to look for when exiting the trail.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt."


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Wheeler Route (5.11)
By: bsmoot When: Jun 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, it's a good name. There's already a route or two here in the Wasatch that bear the Wheeler name.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls Buttress : Sweep Left (5.10b)
By: bsmoot When: Mar 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've always thought that bolt was too close to a scenic waterfall. IMO it shouldn't be replaced ever.


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Now, years later I have enough chest hair to cover my white skin...It's a lot warmer in winter now.


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Jan 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yes! The external frame backpacks...great for hauling up the Robbins traverse ledges and up the chimneys!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Emigration Canyon : This is the Choss. . . A Ch... : Chossalicious! (5.10a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Wow! Even the photo is chossy. Someday, in the far distant future, I'll have to re-visit this place.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Upper Bridal Veil Falls (WI5+) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Dec 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Don't think so. It rarely gets climbed when there's no farming.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : The Fang (WI5)
By: bsmoot When: Dec 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We found a really good approach yesterday. After crossing the bridge, instead of turning right continue strait up a side canyon heading South. After a few minutes, a good trail branches right. Follow switch backs up for a while. The trail then makes a long traverse West to base of the first pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Nov 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, this photo was taken from the original last pitch belay. We recently replaced that final bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Heisenberg (5.13a)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes! On an exploratory probe, this is where Clay, on one of his first aid climbing lead leads ever, tackled the steepest part of this big airy roof. Just as he was pulling over the top, he desperately tried to place anything that would hold his weight. He found only small, shallow groove type cracks. A big plunge into space was taken here as some of his manky placements ripped.

Clay, this wouldn't have happened if you would have brought...some Bashies!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Rhinoplasty (5.12c)
By: bsmoot When: Oct 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The old upper bolts were supposed to be a route/project that branched off to the right of Knuckle Up. They're my bolts. Branching off from Edge of Chaos seems like a better way to go...airy looking route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Gas Boost (5.8)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Chain links have been replaced


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : White Wave Wall : Virtual Reality (5.11d)
By: bsmoot When: Sep 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We just pulled one bolt that was in questionable rock and added 2 to the bottom of this route to make it safer. Remember to move right at the 3rd bolt. If you don't, you will connect up with the other route, which doesn't work well. Fun steepness!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a) : Photo
By: bsmoot When: Aug 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great shot of the cool belay ledge on top of the first pitch.


Page 1 of 8.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!