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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Bryson Slothower


Point Rank: # 112
Total Points: 3,805
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
103 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryson Slothower been climbing?










Contributions


All 1012 | Routes 154 | Areas 49 | Photos 263 | Page Improvements | Comments 215 | Posts 3 | Stars 312 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Sphinx Crack (5.13b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jul 2, 2002

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Comments: So would you say that clipping a bolt is placing gear when sport climbing? Is it an onsight with preplaced bolts or do you have to drill them on lead with no previous knowledge of the route for it to be an onsight in the most traditional sense??... anyways, back to crack climbing...


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Sphinx Crack (5.13b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jul 1, 2002

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Comments: Ben-and I quote... "Normally, I don't comment on routes where I did not onsight the crux pitch"...Does that sound familiar? I'm surprised you didn't just write in to say that you think this route is easy for the grade.........


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 30, 2002

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Comments: A little beta for the upper pitches... If you are going to continue after pitch 1 do not move left to the anchor at the top of pitch one, head right to a different bolted anchor at the top of Camouflage and belay there (semi-hanging).

Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap (sorry Lindsay) and go... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Serpent (5.10b R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 27, 2002

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Comments: I led all the pitches of this route yesterday and thought that they were spectacular although I must admit that the [first] pitch scared me silly. I usually enjoy routes at the 5.9s/5.8vs level and sometimes even solo at this grade but for some reason this route had me whimpering like a puppy who just got caught peeing on the floor. I was extremely relieved to reach the crux where I could clip a good bolt and it almost felt as if the hard part was over. I found it rather ironic that the crux is ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil...
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 25, 2002

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Comments: Does anyone know if this area burned in the Hayman fire????


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 23, 2002

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Comments: Good route! It is possible to add some quality climbing by doing a short 1st pitch right off the trail instead of going up to the ramp and then back down. The pitch is an obvious crack that goes straight up off the trail for 15 feet then hand traverses right then up a finger crack. It starts directly below the obvious crack on pitch two of Star Wars. It is about 50 feet long and probably 5.9+, watch for a loose block during the hand traverse....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 23, 2002

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Comments: This is a very enjoyable route that will challenge you in a variety of ways. Pitches 1-3 can easily be combined into one long lead without rope drag as can pitches 4 and 5. I did the route today in two pitches with a 60m rope and would suggest doing it this way but be careful on the last pitch, you will either get drag or have to make a couple tricky moves with ledge fall potential. The walk off sort of sucked but the variety of climbing, views and exposure were well worth it.......


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 22, 2002

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Comments: I think I'm comfortable doing this pitch without any offwidth gear because I place a #3 Ballnut where you exit the crack and move onto the face. I've fallen out of the crux a few times (onto the pin) and still don't ever take a #4 Camalot when I do this route knowing full well that I will probably fall off of it again. It is all a matter of person comfort level. A #4 or #4.5 would definitely make it feel safer, I wonder what Layton Kor used on the FA in 1960?????


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 22, 2002

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Comments: Awkward, questional gear, and loose does not define Eldo to me....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : I Did It My Way (5.10a R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 19, 2002

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Comments: This variation which seems to have become the standard start to Tagger has never felt any harder than 5.9 to me and it protecs pretty well especially if you have some Ballnuts.........


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 19, 2002

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Comments: Your'e right "AC", it was the third pitch and it is no place to push things, I'd say this pitch is more serious than the crux........


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 19, 2002

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Comments: This is an awesome route and if it were not for the funky approach it would get climbed everyday. The gear is all there but takes some looking around. I got some great ballnut placements that kept this route from ever getting very spicy. The fixed nut above the layback section was removed on 06/13/02. Do this route, it's great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 19, 2002

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Comments: I wasn't so inspired by the fixed gear I found at the crux, the pin was good but the piece below (with a fixed bail biner) was not so great looking and the fixed nut above requires some serious blind faith. I found the climbing [to be] awkward and a bit scary, it felt hard for the grade and I got horrible rope drag doing this in one pitch. I found no way to avoid the rope getting snagged in the constriction above the crux, long runners didn't help but perhaps a directional piece would have helpe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 13, 2002

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Comments: I climbed this route yesterday and loved it. I did however get pretty sketched out on the 3rd pitch when I pulled on a large flake in the 5.9 section and it moved. The pro at this point is a pin driven behind the same flake. I found it difficult to make the move without yarding straight out on the suspect flake. I also had a hard time clipping the pin just below this one because of the way it sits in the rock, I was standing on some loose strata trying to make this clip. I found the crux 2nd pit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: The 1st couple of times I did this route I had problems with stoppers pulling out on me just above the ledge in the upper dihedral (I always do it as one pitch). I would get sketched out because I was near the crux and my stoppers were popping out because of the way the rope was bending. Now I put a long sling on the bolt anchor where you would stop if doing this as two pitches and have not had any problems because the bolt takes all of the upward pull instead of my gear. It seemes inobvious bec... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: I think pitch 3 is probably the best pitch of 5.7 I have ever climbed.....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: This is a really cool route, it has clean rock an almost mystic atmosphere and feels like mountaineering towards the top of the ridge. I descended a chimney to the West near the top of the 6th pitch, it involved 1 rap and some easy down climbing...........


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : South Face of Tower One (5.10c R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: AC, there are a lot of "good" pins that I don't want to fall on, I try to avoid falling. Which ones do you "want" to fall on? Sign your name.

Decent does not mean good, [relatively] dangerous means just that.

I appreciate the constructive suggestions, I really do not want to mislead anyone about this route, as I have said it IS dangerous. All things considered I should probably revise my [assessment] of the pin. I DO NOT KNOW if it would hold a fall, if you think you will end up testing it, do... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : South Face of Tower One (5.10c R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: The pin is decent, it will hold body weight but I wouldn't want to fall on it. I didn't have much time to inspect it but my partner said it was driven into a block that didn't look very securely attached to the slab. I didn't see any way to back it up but I got a good ballnut about 6 feet below the pin and a good TCU about 8 feet above the pin. The rock through this section is solid but it is still relatively dangerous....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Sunset Boulevard (5.11b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 6, 2002

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Comments: Excellent route. It feels like an 11-, but you almost forget that you are in Eldo. There's definitely no need for sketching around trying to will an RP into the rock, I did it out of old habit going for the onsight but will probably just use the bolts from now on. At most sport crags, I think this would probably get an R rating as well as three stars. I wouldn't be too psyched to use only the dead tree as a belay anchor, this route is pretty good at spitting people off. I used some nuts, a @POU... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Smoke & Mirrors (5.10a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 5, 2002

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Comments: If you only have one rope, you can scramble down to the saddle where Ruper ends then scramble back right to the top of Chockstone Chimney, rap to the base of Body Tremors then rap west from a tree with slings near the top of Mickey Mouse Nail Up to the top of Dodo where there is a bolted anchor and one more rap to the Vertigo ledge


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 4, 2002

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Comments: The second pitch is of high quality although there are a few spots of bird dookie. I found the crux to be down lower than where it is shown on the topo at a wide spot in the crack, above that it never felt harder than 10.b. I had a hell of a time trying to lower back to the anchor at the top of Reefer Madness as I was left swinging in the air about 20 feet out from the belay. The rope got stuck in the crack a few times (this was on 06/03/02) and I started to fear a mini epic with a stuc... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 2, 2002

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Comments: Instead of following the ramp all the way over to Ruper at the top of the route, pull the 5.9 roof and look for a clean 5.7 corner and hand crack that leads directly to the summit of T2. It's about 90 feet across the ramp after the roof. Belay near the base of the corner at a flat ledge with a small tree then fire up to the summit in one more long lead. Amet's guide describes a two pitch variation to T2 called Direct Finish first led by Kor in '61 rated 5.5, I would call it 5.7s. I was... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 29, 2002

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Comments: This route is easily done as 1 pitch......


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Big Sky (5.7)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 29, 2002

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Comments: Be aware that the anchor consists of one good bolt and one half driven piton that is bent. Does anyone know what the route just to the left of Big Sky is? New bolts, 5.10ish, open cold shut anchor.....


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