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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Twinkie (5.10c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jul 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I jumped on this the other day without knowing about the supplemental gear, made for an exciting lead, still super fun though...
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : It Takes Two (5.8)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jul 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be climbed in one pitch with a 60m rope, long slings help with drag. Two single rope rappels down the route will get you safely to the ground. Great climb!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone done Desolation Row? How is it?
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Location: WY : Fremont Canyon
By: Bryson Slothower When: Jun 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: the bridge makes for some great rope jumps
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Wartley's Revenge (5.11a/b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone done pitch 2, looks ok? Anchor???
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: what's the ideal season at Maple?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Teddy Bear's Picnic (5.10c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I linked the 3 pitches with a 70m makes for a great pitch!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Snake Rock : Hemp Liberation (5.10d)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt that protects the crux is difficult to clip until committed to the roof...bolt placement seems odd.
Put a long sling on the bolt below the roof unless you like rope drag.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Pack Animal Direct (5.10b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route feels hard for the grade to me too. A fun option is to continue to the top of Pack Animal in one long pitch.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Overboard (5.11c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To lower off the second set of anchors you need a 70m rope.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Southern Tip : South Park (5.12a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks Vern
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Christian Brothers- West Si... : Holier Than Thou (5.11b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: May 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route for the 1st time weekend before last...I went back and did it again last weekend.
I think the fact that is a second pitch above a nice ledge adds to the over-all quality of the climb. I agree that the bottom part of the climb is easy but it is fun. For me a climb doesn't have to be sustained and difficult to be good, it just has to be fun.
Would this still be a great climb it it never got above 5.10...??? in my opinion yes.
David, would you say the same thing about Overboard?
... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Christian Brothers- West Si... : Holier Than Thou (5.11b)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best sport pitches I've been on at Smith!
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Middle Aged Vandal (5.11c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been a while since I've done this one but I remember being concerned about a ledge fall...
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Appian Way (5.12a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: ?? first bolt line right of Teddy Bear is Honey Pot ??
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Teddy Bear's Picnic (5.10c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure of the actual length of this route but want to try leading it in one long pitch with a 70m. Think I'll make it?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right.
It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Heliotrope (5.8 R)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was able to traverse out right to this route from Solar Slab to climb the pay off pitch and avoid waiting for a party ahead of us. Great climbing, no runout.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Cry Babies (5.9)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's in the red adendem as Unknown and I think it goes left of Cinn. Toast but I'm not real familiar with that route.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Southern Tip : Kunza Korner (5.10c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last time I climbed this route I noticed the flake out right at the crux is flexing and close to ripping off.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : Reproductive Wall : Fight Song (5.10a)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Apr 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: single bolt anchor. Back it up then walk off.
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Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Bryson Slothower When: Mar 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great info Mike. Thanks!
more...
www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/redrocks.html
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Heresy (5.11c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: nobody clapped when I was done...
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Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Bryson Slothower When: Mar 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Who could ask for more?"
How about some beta on the camping...
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Morning Sky (5.10c)
By: Bryson Slothower When: Mar 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: anyone have info on the bolted route that continues above Morning Light? I think it ends near or at the top of Pitch 2 of Zebra Zion.
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