Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Feb 16, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Bryan Hall

Point Rank: # 3,687
Total Points: 137
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan Hall been climbing?










Contributions


All 263 | Routes 3 | Areas 3 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 79 | Stars 123 | Ratings 9
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Dirty Pinkos (5.9+)
By: Bryan Hall When: Apr 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Got to disagree with all the praise for this route. It is safely bolted and does follow a cool line, but the loose and hollow rock on it is plentiful. I was lucky enough to climb it on a weekday and was intentionally cleaning minifridge sized blocks off this route on the lower pitches while I could still see that it was clear below. The upper pitches also need a great deal of cleaning for both lichen and bad rock.

I'd give it 1 star, an "OK" rating, and at most 5.8 in difficulty. It should get... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Shoot From the Hip (5.10c)
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route does feel like a very hard 10c onsight. I don't think the description posted here is accurate though. The beta is strange to figure out first go, but once you've climbed the route there isn't any strenuous lock-off or dynamic move required.

Chimney technique will get you passed the first bolt and into a fingerlock and then up to the lieback. Look for the holds that aren't necessarily painted in chalk. There are multiple unchalked bomber holds on this route. Up top it can be hard to ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Hard Body (5.11b) : Photo
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not a slab. Small edges section.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Zion (5.10b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure why this line is heralded as such a must do. There's a lot more interesting climbing at smith in my opinion.


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : south ridge superior : Post : Photo
By: Bryan Hall When: Mar 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah that's in there. Especially with the X4 glue problems that would be a real puzzle to remove.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Chairman Mao's Little Red B... (5.11a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Nov 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The first "pitch" is basically 5.5 choss that doesn't take much, if any, solid gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Thin Air (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Nov 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: To add to the decent options... I agree that rapping the route could be a little tough on the rope and recommend other alternatives. A bit of 3rd and 4th class scrambling gets you to the backside rappel or walk off. The walk off is an EASY 8 foot 3rd class down climb to a ledge and then a walk down 3rd class dihedral formation to put you right next to "The Knob 10a"

After that the scree slope sucks no matter what.

Finally, the 5.8 trad pitch is infinitely better in my opinion than the one mov... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Orgasmophoria (5.10c)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I agree, it would be nice if rap anchors were added to this route. It's also not noted in the guidebook that the walk off is sketch and that rappelling requires a different anchor and two ropes.

I got caught in a lightning storm on this one a few days ago and was pissed to be improvising a rapid decent because of the lack of info on this route! Should have checked MP...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Thieves Like Us (5.10d)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It should be noted that the left side of this route brushes up against poor rock. Care is advised in order to prevent pulling any of the larger stuff down on your belayer until the rock cleans up a bit.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Heathen's Highway (5.10a PG13)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Lots of bolts swinging on the zig zag pitch as of 8/9/2013 and the last one is so far out that it would be a miracle if it actually held a fall...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Revelations (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yep, bring your nuts for this one. The first bolt is scary for sure. I'm comfortable onsighting 10's on sport and trad at Smith but didn't enjoy the journey to the first bolt. Once it's clipped you'll enjoy the run to the anchors.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Earth Boys (5.10b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route with cool moves and great holds. Maybe a little spicy getting to that second bolt? Groundfall?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Pop Art (5.10a/b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Lots of small holds on mottled rock. Not my thing.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Breakdown in Paradise (5.10b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route shouldn't be underestimated. It feels like 5.11 if you follow the bolts. If you go out left you are looking at a real pendulum and I've seen people hurt from taking that fall. NOT for the shaky 5.10 leader.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : When Llamas Bolt (5.11a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Tough pocket climbing that is great fun for Smith. I don't think it's overbolted or contrived. Check it out on TR after climbing Scary Llamas 5.8 to the right of it. Watch out for bees in the pockets mid/late summer...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Dances with Clams (5.10b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Still 10a despite any "missing holds" but is a great warmup romp on this wall.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : Fred On Air (5.10c/d)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route on solid rock. Fun crux and then enjoyable climbing afterwards!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (2) Llama Wall : Llama Enlightenment (5.10c)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The rock is not suspect at all if you stop at the first pitch anchor which is all that is worth climbing.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Vomit Launch (5.11b)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jul 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great fun. Purely a physical fitness route without any single hard move standing out.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Round River (5.4)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route with great views.

Second pitch needs trad gear or you can just run it out like crazy on the giant potholes and low angle terrain to the anchor.

Third pitch variation is worth doing. Round River Direct is a nice 5.8 and is well bolted to the top with the crux at the second bolt.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice route but the description needs a bit of an update...

The climb isn't sustained at 5.8/5.9. There is typically a crux move on each pitch and then it eases back quite a bit afterwards.

Pitch 2 DOES NOT have a separate line of bolts on it. Pitch 2 goes up and left and is very clear.

Pitch 3 DOES HAVE 2 lines of bolts leading you away from the mainline. Keep driving left and up whenever possible! When you reach the belay, build your anchor off the bolts, not rings to keep them open for peop... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : New Testament (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Sep 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (2) Brogan Spire : Walking on Broken Glass (5.11a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Sep 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely the easiest 11a I've ever climbed.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Memorial Crack (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Gear to 4 inches is overkill. There is plenty of smaller pro and the final move up to the belay is well protected with a #3 if you want it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Karen's Math (5.10a PG13)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Well protected, not PG13. I climbed this and missed the bolt on the traverse and would still call it well protected.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!