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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : New Testament (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire : Walking on Broken Glass (5.11a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely the easiest 11a I've ever climbed.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Memorial Crack (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear to 4 inches is overkill. There is plenty of smaller pro and the final move up to the belay is well protected with a #3 if you want it.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Karen's Math (5.10a PG13)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well protected, not PG13. I climbed this and missed the bolt on the traverse and would still call it well protected.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Calculus Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well protected, not PG13. If you notice bad wind in the parking lot you will be in for an adventure on this route. After climbing a very windy 190 feet of 5.6 wide crack you step left into an amazing finger crack that is truly on the edge of the apron. The wind RIPS through this section of the climb pulling helmets off, chalk bags sideways, the rope, and of course you. That being said, it's quite the windy adventure if you get it on a day like that!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Smoke Bluff Connection (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts on Wonderland got chopped.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Layback Flake (5.9 R)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A serious lead for sure. Fortunately it feels a bit easy for 5.9 until after you clip the upper bolt.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Neat and Cool (5.10a PG13)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely disagree with the PG13 rating. Any route can be considered dangerous for a novice leader. There is plenty of pro to stay safe with and despite the comment about accidents occurring here the route should not have a PG13 rating.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Aug 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I slipped at the crux stance while resting and blew the onsight... But! I wouldn't say it's polished, just not great happy feet. The Zip is much better at 10a tho.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Hammer, The (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pro to 2" will sew this up. It's pretty straightforward, unlike the "rather difficult" comment in the guidebook. If you know how to handjam then you should be fine.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Classic Crack (5.9)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. If your jams are good you shouldn't worry about how slick people say this route is. That being said, if you try to stay in the crack all the way to the top your feet will be on some buttery rock before you make it to the ledge. A great on-sight opportunity.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Sheer Energy (5.10a)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun route and one of the most straight forward 5.10a routes I've ever done. Much easier than Sheer Stress or Classic Crack next to it! I would also argue that it was easier than The Sickle or Edges and Ledges which are both 5.8. Solid pro and a great tick for new 5.10 leaders.
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : The Sickle (5.8)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All three starts to this route are fun. The 5.8 did seem the best. According to the Portland Rock Climbing book you need pro to 4" for this route. This is totally untrue, a #2 and #3 camalot provide great protection for the crux. Enjoy some awesome fist jams through the curving crack!
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great diverse route. I wasn't bothered by any polishing, it just feels like another Broughton Bluff basalt route... I would argue that the bolted section felt very tricky!
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Location: OR : Trout Creek
By: Bryan Hall When: Jun 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For future note, do a google search for "Trout Creek Guidebook" and it will lead you to the download link!
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Location: OR : Rocky Butte
By: Bryan Hall When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've got to admit, yes it's easy to find and access, but no, it's just not worth it. So much noise from the highway forces you to yell to your climber when they are only 40 feet away!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Chica Bonita Wall : Cheaper Than a Movie (5.8)
By: Bryan Hall When: Nov 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route. Eats gear wherever you might want it and gives you a hard 11c TR on Bessie when you are done. I carried doubles of #3 instead of a #4 and had no problems with gear on this.
60 meter rope does get you down, it's close though!
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