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Happy Turk


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Bryan Gartland


Point Rank: # 1,571
Total Points: 393
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
38 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan Gartland been climbing?










Contributions


All 177 | Routes 10 | Areas 3 | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 36 | Stars 36 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MT : Pine Creek : Pine Creek Falls (WI2)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Re: the lower-right branch of Pine Creek Falls, which is the line pictured in the photos above:

Climbers expecting WI2 all the way to the top are in for a bit of a shock at the final bulge below the anchor. It's 15 ft or so of near vertical ice and can't be seen from the base of the climb.


Location: MT : Madison River Area : Crew Crag
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: In 1998 or thereabouts Chris Kurowski and I topped out on the right-facing book just left of "Balance of Power". It went at 5.8 or 5.9, was fairly dirty, but is a worthy adventure route if you're looking for something new to do on the Madison.

The short tower-esque formation downhill and to the right (south) of this buttress also hosts a fun little gear climb in the 5.7 range that finishes on a splitter crack, by Montana standards…

I'm psyched to check out "Balance" sometime in the future. T... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: That's exactly where we were headed, in fact.

Great route!


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the quick response, Hermes.

And congrats on ticking that long-standing project.


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur
By: Bryan Gartland When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: I understand that the access/ownership issues continue on the north end of the main crag -- any updates on the legality of climbing Beach Ball, The Prow, etc.?

Has Beach Ball seen its FFA yet?


Location: CO : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: It is good water, just don't bring up the topic with someone from the western slope.


Location: WY : Yellowstone National Park : Lamar Valley
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 13, 2008

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Comments: Folks have been bouldering in the Lamar for years. I'd wager that most of the easier things that are visible from the road have already been done.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 20, 2007

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Comments: Big gear is nice to have on this one.


Location: John J. Glime : climbing : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: I Love Golfing?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: The crux of this thing is clipping the godamned chainlink hangers.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: Very cool.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Standard Route (5.9)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: John, it's worth adding that Jack tramped all over our flaked ropes as we talked, then proceeded to solo the thing. It was a funny introduction to the Canyon classic.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: Is the plane wreck gone? In the late 80s or early 90s there was still a BIG piece of the fuselage high in the couloir and a complete wing near the bottom that had caught a ride on an avalanche. If I can find my photos of the wreckage I’ll add them to the site.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 1, 2007

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Comments: As of March 2007 the bolts are still good and there are several cheater "stick" options for the first clip scattered around the base, courtesy of the old uranium mine up the hill. The thing is precarious but rest assured that it can at least withstand the burden of 3 dudes, a 12-pack and a stout wind.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Organ : Organasm (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 26, 2007

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Comments: The Magic City Marauder.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier : Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: The condition of this route seems to have changed a lot in the last ten years. I did this in relatively safe style in late August of '97 or '98 with a single alpine axe and no rappels or fixed lines. The "chute" appears to be more of a proper ice climb these days.

Pitching tents at Camp Hazard during warm spells is pretty risky. We did so and nervously watched as blocks broke off the sun-baked upper Kautz Glacier every hour or so. Most of it funneled down the gully the route crosses just we... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: Ben, I had a go at this 3 years ago but could not find the bolts/angles/bootied-angle-holes/whatever leading out left on the second pitch. We saw hardware higher up but nothing low enough to get us out of the chimney. We fixed a large hex and bailed.

Did you have to pendulum way out to find them or have they just been replaced since then?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cruel Sister (5.10a)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 13, 2006

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Comments: Can you get away with just two sets of cams on this one?

~Thanks


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Torres de Polvo : Virgin Roadtrip (5.4 C1)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 17, 2006

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Comments: You could say the same about Montezuma's Tower in Garden of the Gods if you look at it from the right angle.

Nice work, John. Thanks for the addition.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: There is some colorful but little known history in Deer Creek Canyon. Alfred Packer spent his final years mining and ranching in the area.

Please be mindful of the 100-year old petroglyphs on the bottom right side of the crag. This place is known as Camp Rock in historical records and was a popular resting place for travelers on the Deer Creek wagon road.

On a completely different note, an ice climb or two occasionally form downstream of Phillipsburg. I've never caught them in shape but my ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Wally World (5.5)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: Kirk, WW starts on steep rock (relative to the rest of the route) in a shady alcove approx. 100 ft up and right from the bolted slab. The climbing isn't very aesthetic for the first 30 ft or so.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Steamboat Springs
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: That's interesting. I've always thought Marble Falls in the Crystal Valley is the model for the Coors label.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 15, 2005

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Comments: So, is the free climbing 5.4 or 5.8?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Gotham City (5.10a)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: Easier than Barney on the other side of the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 5, 2005

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Comments: Good to see the new hardware up there but why go to all that work and leave the first ring bolt as is??


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