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Happy Turk


Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 10, 2014
Contact Bryan Gartland


Point Rank: # 1,533
Total Points: 390
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
38 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan Gartland been climbing?










Contributions


All 173 | Routes 10 | Areas 3 | Photos 42 | Page Improvments | Comments 35 | Posts 36 | Stars 36 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Bryan Gartland When: Oct 18, 2009

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Comments: What happened with the Idaho Springs ice park that was talked about five or so years ago? I never thought it was a good idea for road traffic reasons but at one point it was sounding like a done deal.


Location: CO : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 3, 2009

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Comments: It is good water, just don't bring up the topic with someone from the western slope.


Location: WY : Yellowstone National Park : Lamar Valley
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 13, 2008

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Comments: Folks have been bouldering in the Lamar for years. I'd wager that most of the easier things that are visible from the road have already been done.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 20, 2007

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Comments: Big gear is nice to have on this one.


Location: John J. Glime : climbing : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: I Love Golfing?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: The crux of this thing is clipping the godamned chainlink hangers.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: Very cool.


Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Standard Route (5.9)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: John, it's worth adding that Jack tramped all over our flaked ropes as we talked, then proceeded to solo the thing. It was a funny introduction to the Canyon classic.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Navajo Peak
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: Is the plane wreck gone? In the late 80s or early 90s there was still a BIG piece of the fuselage high in the couloir and a complete wing near the bottom that had caught a ride on an avalanche. If I can find my photos of the wreckage Iíll add them to the site.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 1, 2007

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Comments: As of March 2007 the bolts are still good and there are several cheater "stick" options for the first clip scattered around the base, courtesy of the old uranium mine up the hill. The thing is precarious but rest assured that it can at least withstand the burden of 3 dudes, a 12-pack and a stout wind.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Organ : Organasm (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 26, 2007

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Comments: The Magic City Marauder.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier : Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: The condition of this route seems to have changed a lot in the last ten years. I did this in relatively safe style in late August of '97 or '98 with a single alpine axe and no rappels or fixed lines. The "chute" appears to be more of a proper ice climb these days.

Pitching tents at Camp Hazard during warm spells is pretty risky. We did so and nervously watched as blocks broke off the sun-baked upper Kautz Glacier every hour or so. Most of it funneled down the gully the route crosses just we... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: Ben, I had a go at this 3 years ago but could not find the bolts/angles/bootied-angle-holes/whatever leading out left on the second pitch. We saw hardware higher up but nothing low enough to get us out of the chimney. We fixed a large hex and bailed.

Did you have to pendulum way out to find them or have they just been replaced since then?


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Cruel Sister (5.10a)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 13, 2006

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Comments: Can you get away with just two sets of cams on this one?

~Thanks


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 17, 2006

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Comments: Does anyone know the latest on Sugarite SP? I was surprised not to see it on here since there are some routes still in place. It's a fun crag, hopefully it'll be re-developed someday.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Torres de Polvo : Virgin Roadtrip (5.4 C1)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 17, 2006

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Comments: You could say the same about Montezuma's Tower in Garden of the Gods if you look at it from the right angle.

Nice work, John. Thanks for the addition.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: There is some colorful but little known history in Deer Creek Canyon. Alfred Packer spent his final years mining and ranching in the area.

Please be mindful of the 100-year old petroglyphs on the bottom right side of the crag. This place is known as Camp Rock in historical records and was a popular resting place for travelers on the Deer Creek wagon road.

On a completely different note, an ice climb or two occasionally form downstream of Phillipsburg. I've never caught them in shape but my ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Wally World (5.5)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: Kirk, WW starts on steep rock (relative to the rest of the route) in a shady alcove approx. 100 ft up and right from the bolted slab. The climbing isn't very aesthetic for the first 30 ft or so.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Steamboat Springs
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: That's interesting. I've always thought Marble Falls in the Crystal Valley is the model for the Coors label.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : North Face (a.k.a. Wyrick-M... (5.4 C1 R)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Dec 15, 2005

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Comments: So, is the free climbing 5.4 or 5.8?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Gotham City (5.10a)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: Easier than Barney on the other side of the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Apr 5, 2005

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Comments: Good to see the new hardware up there but why go to all that work and leave the first ring bolt as is??


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders
By: Bryan Gartland When: Feb 7, 2005

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Comments: The route pulldown for the Satellites is getting a bit unwieldy at 70+ problems. Seems to me that it could use its own Area listing.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Coors Lite (WI2-3)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Jan 2, 2005

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Comments: There are new (?) bolts with chains on the top of pitch 1, easily allowing a toprope belay from the bottom with a 60m rope.

As of 1/2/05 both pitches are in pretty good shape. The recent warm weather has done much to heal the ice.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Bryan Gartland When: Oct 4, 2004

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Comments: Tim Barton and I had a go at Dreamweaver on Saturday; either we missed the window of ideal conditions or folks have been overly enthusiastic in their reports over the last week or so!

We only saw about 30-40' of ice on the entire route, the rest was more of a snow slog with dry tooling at the steep sections. Avy conditions still seemed stable but the snow was thigh-deep in most of the couloir.

Darkstar and the Notch Couloir appeared to be in about the same shape as Dreamweaver but w... more >>


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