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Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders


Member Since: Nov 17, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Bryan G


Point Rank: # 93
Total Points: 4,031
Last Year: 197
Last 30 Days: 0
118 Compliments
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All (984) | Routes (262) | Areas (19) | Photos (192) | Comments (166) | Posts (233) | Stars (112) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Lexington Tower : East Face (5.9+)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: This climb is longer than the 800ft the Supertopo gives it. I wouldn't recommend a #6. The "crux OW" is sport bolted, easy, and has lots of face holds so you don't even need to get in it.

We rappelled the route with two 60m ropes which allowed us to bring ice axes for the snow slope at the base without having to carry them up the climb. But late in the season when the base is melted out it's probably better to go up and over.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Silver Star and connected s... : ... : North Face (5.8)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: The new Supertopo shows 3 variations on the last pitch. We took the left variation up a nice long chimney in a right-facing corner. This finish is great and I highly recommend it. However, directly above the chimney is a nice looking offwidth corner crack, and although it's clean and high quality, don't go up it unless you are prepared to downclimb. It tops out at a knife edge block with no rap anchor. You'll find a lonely 1/4" stud (no hanger or nut) on top. The proper finish to the summit is t... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Boogie 'til you Puke (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: The rack I would recommend is a single set of cams from 3"-6" with two cams in the 4.5" (#5 Camalot) size.

Although a bit more technical than the Scimitar, this is still way soft for 5.11b.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Milk Road (5.10d C0)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: A loose rock warning for pitch 7 (the right side of Crescent Tower). After the bolted chimney you move out onto a crack on the face. This leads to a thin fingertip traverse left to crack near the arete. There are several cracks here and the one on the right has a tree stump with handholds chopped into it. At this point I reached around into the wide crack to the left and got a handjam behind a chockstone in the crack. I barely touched it and the thing slid about 4 inches and then stopped. It's b... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : A Pitch In Time (5.10b)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: The extension is a bit bold. There's some solid pro in the irregular crack and then you reach out right to an angled rail. The last bit of climbing up the rail takes you above your gear, but the whipper is safe. It's good quality, and adds some extra value to this short route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley
By: Bryan G When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments:

When to Climb



Yosemite Valley is a year-round climbing destination, but depending on what you're looking for, some months are better than others. Here's what you can expect...


Winter (Dec, Jan, Feb)

Winter days are short and frigid on the Valley floor. Walls with a southern aspect get more sunshine and typically warm up to perfect temperatures. Any climbing on the south side of the Valley (north facing) is out of the question unless it's one of the Valley's rarely done ice cl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Sentinel Boulders
By: Bryan G When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Big Columbia might get all the fame and glory, but I think for overall quality and quantity of problems, the B-1 Boulder is the single best block in the Valley. Don't pass it up if you're looking for problems in the V4-V8 range.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Plumb Line (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch is probably one of the best pitches of 5.10 crack in the Valley. It's nice to save a couple cams in the 2-3" range for the anchor. Three #3 Camalots wouldn't go unused. The other pitches are also enjoyable and will improve with more traffic/cleaning. Pitch 1 is definitely 5.10 at the top of the corner. It looks like there is also a alternate start to P1 to the right, up a chimney past a bay tree, but it's probably not good quality.

The optimal approach is the NE Face Fixe... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Aftershock (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't say it's "over" once you get your feet above the roof. Rope drag and pump factor kept me fighting up the final moves of baggy fingers and thin hands before the anchor.

Combined with Butterballs and Butterfingers, this is Nabisco Wall the hard way.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions
By: Bryan G When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance

Immediately right of Chicken Pie is a new bolted route which starts by scrambling 20ft up Chicken Pie before clipping the first bolt and moving out onto the face. I think near the top this route traverses back to rejoin Chicken Pie. It is about 5.10c and very well protected. Don't know the name or FA'ist.

To the right of that is Catch A Wave (5.11d, FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1986) which has a th... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions : Wasp (5.9 PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: I only slung two chickenheads. The corner takes good small gear the whole way and you have comfortable stances to place it from. This is assuming you take the variation that escapes left around the arete to join New Diversions at the hanging flake above the p1 anchors. The topo also shows a direct finish that continues straight up the thin corner after the knobs run out. The direct finish looked harder than 5.9 and you will probably want extra small gear and micro cams.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Mojo Tooth Area
By: Bryan G When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: The routes on this page are out of order. From left to right it should be:
Cereal Killer
Figment
New Traditionalists
Grape Nuts
Euellogy
Mighty Crunchy


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Elephantiasis (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: There is also a new line maybe 60ft to the left of Elephantiasis, I spied a bolt above a roof in the knobby stuff. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing this is the upper pitches of Elephant Man (Cedar Wright, Renan Ozturk, 2004) which connects the Worst Error to the summit. Looks fun.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering
By: Bryan G When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Some good stuff...

Park Life
-a great 25 min video with loads of classic problems

Yosemite Bouldering
-scanned images of the Rock and Ice article by Mark Chapman

A Week in the Valley
-11 min video shows off some harder classics



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Spire
By: Bryan G When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: There's already a page for HCS under the Cathedral Spires page. Maybe an admin can move your route description for the Northwest Face over there?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Kat Pinnacle : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: In danger of sounding like a tourist, I've got to ask... if the first ascent was by a Tyrolean, then how did they get the rope over there? Lasso one of the blocks on that ledge? That'd be a hell of a toss. Maybe a grappling hook gun, ala Batman and Mission Impossible?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Kat Pinnacle : Northwest Corner (5.7 C2+)
By: Bryan G When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: I think the whole thing has now gone free? There are several fat new bolts on the second pitch which look like they were installed to protect a free variation on the arete. These bolts can be clipped from the aid crack as well, and between those and all the fixed pins I think the second pitch is probably only C1+ now, but I didn't lead it.

There's also a handful of new sport climbs that have gone up on Kat Pinnacle and the short cliff on the other side of the notch. They look pretty fun if you ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Dec 16, 2012

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Comments: It's an optical illusion. Grandpa Peabody is so freakin huge that its gravitational field causes light to bend.... like looking at the edge of a black-hole.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Sons of Yesterday (5.10a/b)
By: Bryan G When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: Re: Matthias

The Ahwahnee Buttress route (10d with some aid) is a separate line predating Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday, although this whole section of cliff is also often referred to as the "Ahwahnee Buttress". The two routes cross paths and share some belay ledges but are otherwise independent. Ahwahnee Buttress has sunk pretty far into obscurity and I imagine that if you returned today you would find it nearly as vegetated as you remember it, if that's what you climbed.

books.... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Bruce Lee (V8)
By: Bryan G When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: (2) the mission of MP is to "go beyond the guidebook" (i.e. enter information you can't find in a guidebook or anywhere else).

Hmmm, something you can't find in the guidebook? You mean, like... a video clip?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Work Around the Skirt (5.10c)
By: Bryan G When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: From the top of this climb it is also possible to continue up on either Commitment (5.9) or Deaf, Dumb, and Blind (10a R). We did the first pitch of D,D,&B with the intention of going to the top, but bailed at the start of pitch 2.

For pitch 1 of Deaf, Dumb, and Blind:
Traverse out right to a bolt and then climb up to a second bolt. From here work up and right aiming for the sole tree in the middle of the face. Above the tree is a finger crack which leads up to hummocks. Traverse right again to... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Reeds Leads (5.10b)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: This climb follows the obvious left-facing ramp/corner between Ahab and the first pitch of Salathe. Start in a crack system slightly to the right and then move left into the corner about 40ft up. Somewhat awkward climbing leads to a small ledge with an old 1/4" bolt on it. Above this you have to transfer from a good finger crack on the left over to a shallow groove on the right. Then another traverse out onto the face is made to gain a bolted anchor out right.

Bring pro to 2" but it mostly take... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Crashline (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Mostly .5 and .75" pieces through the crux. Pretty good finger jams with pretty bad feet. Save a 1" cam for the final corner crack above the tree. Also be mindful of a mostly detached block/flake on the right wall of the corner just below the tree.

There's also a new climb just left of Crashline. It climbs through knobs near the arete (past several bolts) and then maybe heads up into a crack system? We didn't try it but it looks interesting, though a bit crusty with lichen.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Independence Pinnacle, Cent... (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Although it deals more with the Stoneman Meadow Riots than it does with Independence Center, this Supertopo thread by first ascentionist Barry Bates is rich with Yosemite history and worth a look.

Yosemite Riots and the First Ascent of Independence Pinnacle


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Steppin' Out (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: I linked pitches 2 & 3, and the rope drag/weight, though not bad, did make pushing a cam virtually impossible. In retrospect, I should have clipped the cam with a very long runner so that I would not be pushing up the weight of the rope as I pushed the cam ahead of me.

The business is mostly wide #5 Camalots or tight #6's. This was not a good size for me, too wide for a knee jam. I haven't climbed a lot of 5.10+ OW's, but I found it to be loads harder than Cream 11a.


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