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Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders


Member Since: Nov 17, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Bryan G


Point Rank: # 98
Total Points: 4,087
Last Year: 81
Last 30 Days: 55
136 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bryan G been climbing?










Contributions


All 1001 | Routes 264 | Areas 19 | Photos 198 | Page Improvments | Comments 172 | Posts 234 | Stars 114 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Breezy Point : Lost Arrow Spire : The Bein Crack (5.10)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Very difficult to get started, and then it stays sort of sustained and pumpy and you don't often have a great stance to place gear from. This one is a proud 5.10 lead. Great climb.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Bartizan Wall : Crack of Earthly Delights (5.9)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure if we went the right way, but we approached via the large gully to the south which has a huge chockstone blocking your way near the top. Climbing out the right wall of the gully seemed 5.6 and was mega-crusty with lichen.

The first pitch of the route has a really strenuous section down low with some sort of loose and heavily fractured rock. As you get further up the corner the rock gets a little better and the climbing improves. The second pitch is pretty heads-up because it doesn'... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Two Year Plan (5.11a)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: The new Orenczak guide very incorrectly lists the bolted route just right of Classic Crack as "Hot Licks 5.9". This was one of the first routes we did in the Custer side of the Needles and after leading to the top I yelled down to my partner, "It's a really hard 5.9, it'd probably be 11a in Yosemite!"


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: The beginning of the route (where the piton/retro-bolt used to be) takes some small gear - I placed a #00 C3 and a nut, each of which I tested by hanging most of my weight from and they seemed solid enough. You could maybe even fiddle in some additional micro-nuts and get it all equalized into a little nest of gear if you want; you're at a great stance, so you have all the time in the world to decide for yourself if the gear is up to your liking. You pull the crux with this gear ... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Holey Terror : Holy Terror (5.7 X)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Most of the route is unprotected 4th and easy 5th class scrambling along the ridge (actually an arch, though you might not realize it until the rap down). The brief 5.7/5.8 crux near the top however is very well protected by a fat shiny bolt. Not an ideal route for new leaders, but not 5.7X either.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Wide Thing (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: I hiked up there once with a couple big cams and the intention of getting on Wide Thing. From the ground it looks kind of scary and super dirty. I think you also have to do a short and ugly approach pitch just to get to the start of the climbing.

We ended up sport climbing at the upper tier instead.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Lexington Tower : East Face (5.9+)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: This climb is longer than the 800ft the Supertopo gives it. I wouldn't recommend a #6. The "crux OW" is sport bolted, easy, and has lots of face holds so you don't even need to get in it.

We rappelled the route with two 60m ropes which allowed us to bring ice axes for the snow slope at the base without having to carry them up the climb. But late in the season when the base is melted out it's probably better to go up and over.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Silver Star and connected s... : ... : North Face (5.8)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: The new Supertopo shows 3 variations on the last pitch. We took the left variation up a nice long chimney in a right-facing corner. This finish is great and I highly recommend it. However, directly above the chimney is a nice looking offwidth corner crack, and although it's clean and high quality, don't go up it unless you are prepared to downclimb. It tops out at a knife edge block with no rap anchor. You'll find a lonely 1/4" stud (no hanger or nut) on top. The proper finish to the summit is t... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Boogie 'til you Puke (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: The rack I would recommend is a single set of cams from 3"-6" with two cams in the 4.5" (#5 Camalot) size.

Although a bit more technical than the Scimitar, this is still way soft for 5.11b.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Milk Road (5.10d C0)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: A loose rock warning for pitch 7 (the right side of Crescent Tower). After the bolted chimney you move out onto a crack on the face. This leads to a thin fingertip traverse left to crack near the arete. There are several cracks here and the one on the right has a tree stump with handholds chopped into it. At this point I reached around into the wide crack to the left and got a handjam behind a chockstone in the crack. I barely touched it and the thing slid about 4 inches and then stopped. It's b... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : A Pitch In Time (5.10b)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: The extension is a bit bold. There's some solid pro in the irregular crack and then you reach out right to an angled rail. The last bit of climbing up the rail takes you above your gear, but the whipper is safe. It's good quality, and adds some extra value to this short route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley
By: Bryan G When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments:

When to Climb



Yosemite Valley is a year-round climbing destination, but depending on what you're looking for, some months are better than others. Here's what you can expect...


Winter (Dec, Jan, Feb)

Winter days are short and frigid on the Valley floor. Walls with a southern aspect get more sunshine and typically warm up to perfect temperatures. Any climbing on the south side of the Valley (north facing) is out of the question unless it's one of the Valley's rarely done ice cl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Sentinel Boulders
By: Bryan G When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Big Columbia might get all the fame and glory, but I think for overall quality and quantity of problems, the B-1 Boulder is the single best block in the Valley. Don't pass it up if you're looking for problems in the V4-V8 range.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Plumb Line (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch is probably one of the best pitches of 5.10 crack in the Valley. It's nice to save a couple cams in the 2-3" range for the anchor. Three #3 Camalots wouldn't go unused. The other pitches are also enjoyable and will improve with more traffic/cleaning. Pitch 1 is definitely 5.10 at the top of the corner. It looks like there is also a alternate start to P1 to the right, up a chimney past a bay tree, but it's probably not good quality.

The optimal approach is the NE Face Fixe... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Aftershock (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't say it's "over" once you get your feet above the roof. Rope drag and pump factor kept me fighting up the final moves of baggy fingers and thin hands before the anchor.

Combined with Butterballs and Butterfingers, this is Nabisco Wall the hard way.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions
By: Bryan G When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance

Immediately right of Chicken Pie is a new bolted route which starts by scrambling 20ft up Chicken Pie before clipping the first bolt and moving out onto the face. I think near the top this route traverses back to rejoin Chicken Pie. It is about 5.10c and very well protected. Don't know the name or FA'ist.

To the right of that is Catch A Wave (5.11d, FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1986) which has a th... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions : Wasp (5.9 PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: I only slung two chickenheads. The corner takes good small gear the whole way and you have comfortable stances to place it from. This is assuming you take the variation that escapes left around the arete to join New Diversions at the hanging flake above the p1 anchors. The topo also shows a direct finish that continues straight up the thin corner after the knobs run out. The direct finish looked harder than 5.9 and you will probably want extra small gear and micro cams.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Mojo Tooth Area
By: Bryan G When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: The routes on this page are out of order. From left to right it should be:
Cereal Killer
Figment
New Traditionalists
Grape Nuts
Euellogy
Mighty Crunchy


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Elephant Rock : Elephantiasis (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: There is also a new line maybe 60ft to the left of Elephantiasis, I spied a bolt above a roof in the knobby stuff. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing this is the upper pitches of Elephant Man (Cedar Wright, Renan Ozturk, 2004) which connects the Worst Error to the summit. Looks fun.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering
By: Bryan G When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Some good stuff...

Park Life
-a great 25 min video with loads of classic problems

Yosemite Bouldering
-scanned images of the Rock and Ice article by Mark Chapman

A Week in the Valley
-11 min video shows off some harder classics



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire
By: Bryan G When: Jan 4, 2013

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Comments: There's already a page for HCS under the Cathedral Spires page. Maybe an admin can move your route description for the Northwest Face over there?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Kat Pinnacle : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: In danger of sounding like a tourist, I've got to ask... if the first ascent was by a Tyrolean, then how did they get the rope over there? Lasso one of the blocks on that ledge? That'd be a hell of a toss. Maybe a grappling hook gun, ala Batman and Mission Impossible?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Kat Pinnacle : Northwest Corner (5.7 C2+)
By: Bryan G When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: I think the whole thing has now gone free? There are several fat new bolts on the second pitch which look like they were installed to protect a free variation on the arete. These bolts can be clipped from the aid crack as well, and between those and all the fixed pins I think the second pitch is probably only C1+ now, but I didn't lead it.

There's also a handful of new sport climbs that have gone up on Kat Pinnacle and the short cliff on the other side of the notch. They look pretty fun if you ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Dec 16, 2012

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Comments: It's an optical illusion. Grandpa Peabody is so freakin huge that its gravitational field causes light to bend.... like looking at the edge of a black-hole.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Sons of Yesterday (5.10a/b)
By: Bryan G When: Dec 15, 2012

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Comments: Re: Matthias

The Ahwahnee Buttress route (10d with some aid) is a separate line predating Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday, although this whole section of cliff is also often referred to as the "Ahwahnee Buttress". The two routes cross paths and share some belay ledges but are otherwise independent. Ahwahnee Buttress has sunk pretty far into obscurity and I imagine that if you returned today you would find it nearly as vegetated as you remember it, if that's what you climbed.

books.... more >>


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