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Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders


Member Since: Nov 17, 2007
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 88
Total Points: 4,525
Last Year: 515
Last 30 Days: 137
152 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1066 | Routes 294 | Areas 20 | Photos 219 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 187 | Posts 233 | Stars 112 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Staircase Falls : Circuit Breaker (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: 4 days ago

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Comments: There's a climbers trail leading up to the base of it. The trail begins a little bit to the east of the Old Curry Area (Root Canal, Kevin's Traverse, ect...) It's been a few years since i walked up there so I don't remember the specifics other than that.

There's also some more photos and a video on the route page under the bouldering section: Circuit Breaker


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Jungle Gym : Alamo (5.11a)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: It's more than an 85' rap, I'm pretty sure you need at least a 60m to make it down.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Maxine's Wall (5.10c)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Nah, it's still super dirty above the first pitch. The thin crack leading up to the 10c crux is pretty cool. After that it's a lot of bushwhacking up corners.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Eye in the Sky (5.10d R)
By: Bryan G When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This climb is at most a 5.9, and even for that grade it seemed a lot easier than some other Valley 5.9's like Quicksilver and Angelica. I also get the feeling that the FA used up all their bolts on the first 5 pitches and then had to make due with gear anchors and runout climbing for the last 3 pitches. The "10b" (more like 5.8) 6th pitch is quite runout with a really bad fall onto a low-angle slab below. Expect 5.7 R/X climbing. But it's still a really cool pitch with interesting climbing in a ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Middle Palisade : East Face (3rd) : Photo
By: Bryan G When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: From the ASCA website:

1st class - hiking
2nd class - scrambling and boulder hopping, hands are needed, but generally very little exposure or danger
3rd class - steep scrambling with exposure, ropes are needed for inexperienced people. An unroped fall on 3rd class terrain would likely be fatal.
4th class - steeper scrambling on small holds, ropes are needed for most people, but an experienced climber would normally climb an entire rope length without intermediate protection, then set an ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle
By: Bryan G When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: The tips crack to the right of Desperate Straights (the chimney flake) is called Cat's Squirrel. 5.12a to the first set of anchors (FA: Bill Price, Augie Klein, 1980), or 5.12b to the second set of anchors (FA: Dimitri Barton, Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, Rick Lovelace, et al, 1989).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Kauk-kulator (5.11c)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know if this has a second pitch with anchor? The crack keeps going and looks quality.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : G-Man Extension (not Book'e... (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Yeah the FA should have done one more mantle before pulling out the drill. Clipping a bolt to do a 5.6 mantle and then facing an ankle busting runout for the 5.10+ all-points-off dyno is just strange.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: To descend from the summit of Middle Cathedral

There are several potential ways to get down from the top of Middle. The option which looked the best to us is as follows:
Begin by hiking downhill towards Higher Cathedral Rock. Heavy bushwhacking will be encountered. By staying near the left edge of the ridge (above Cathedral Gully) and with careful route finding we were able to make it down to the notch without too much difficulty. From here you scramble up 3rd class ledges and ramps with... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Direct North Buttress (DNB) (5.10b)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The pitch 3 crux is a sandbag, it's more like 5.10d, but you've got a bolt right in front of you. The 5.9 runout off the belay on pitch 7 is the mental crux. There's a piton down below which you can clip to keep from falling on the belay, but it's still run and then you have rope drag for the rest of the pitch. If you skip the pin and manage your gear well, you can link 7, 8, and 9 all together.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Stoner's Highway (5.10c R)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: You can eliminate the swing for the follower on pitch 1 by linking the first two pitches together: After getting a couple pieces in the underside of a flake on "pitch 2", lower down and back-clean the 3rd and 4th bolts on the first pitch, then hand-over-hand back up the rope and finish leading the second pitch.

This is one of the best 5.10's in Yosemite. Very clean rock and many enjoyable cruxes to solve. A bit spicy here and there, but never dangerous (just bring some micro cams, and make sure... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Paradise Lost (5.10a PG13)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: The bashed nut on pitch 2 was replaced with a bolt. A new climb starts on the face to the left of the Pee Pee Pillar, climbs directly up to share the second pitch of Paradise Lost, and then continues directly up where PL traverses right on pitch 3. Some new bolts have been added and also the position of the belay anchors has been changed. If you're looking at the topo for PL in the Reid guide, these two pitches will seem confusing.

For the first pitch, don't stop at the bolted anchor on the lef... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : North Buttress (5.10a)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: If by modern standards this is a Grade IV, then I think also by modern standards the Steck-Salathe would have to be a Grade III, and the Rostrum a Grade II. Just for the sake of consistency.

This took us a little longer to climb than DNB, mainly because the route finding is more difficult and there's more loose rock you have to be careful with.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Freewheelin' (5.10b R)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Here is a really good (and quite humorous) account of the first accent by Roger.
supertopo.com/tr/Freewheeling-...


I thought the hardest section to lead was getting to the second bolt on pitch 2 - a tricky 5.9 traverse (and probably harder than 5.9 if you're short). All the rest of the difficult climbing is very well protected. Major runouts are 5.7 or easier. I linked pitches 2 and 3 in order to skip the piton belay (one of whic... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Bircheff-Williams (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: This climb would be stellar if it was cleaned out better. The rock face is pristine, but the crack systems have a lot of dirt, grass, and bushes. Pitch 3 in particular was overgrown, but it looks like there's a cleaner variation straight up the corner (instead of switching to the left crack/corner, as shown in Reid guide). Pitch 4 crux could probably be anywhere from 5.10 to 5.12 depending on your height. Place gear high in the corner then climb back down to do the moves. I left a stopper with a... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Overhang Overpass (5.11c)
By: Bryan G When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: The crux is 0.5 (purple) Camalots, for those who don't know Alien sizes. Just a little bit wider than the crux of Butterballs and much harder for the grade, imo.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Breezy Point : Lost Arrow Spire : The Bein Crack (5.10)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Very difficult to get started, and then it stays sort of sustained and pumpy and you don't often have a great stance to place gear from. This one is a proud 5.10 lead. Great climb.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Bartizan Wall : Crack of Earthly Delights (5.9)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure if we went the right way, but we approached via the large gully to the south which has a huge chockstone blocking your way near the top. Climbing out the right wall of the gully seemed 5.6 and was mega-crusty with lichen.

The first pitch of the route has a really strenuous section down low with some sort of loose and heavily fractured rock. As you get further up the corner the rock gets a little better and the climbing improves. The second pitch is pretty heads-up because it doesn'... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Two Year Plan (5.11a)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: The new Orenczak guide very incorrectly lists the bolted route just right of Classic Crack as "Hot Licks 5.9". This was one of the first routes we did in the Custer side of the Needles and after leading to the top I yelled down to my partner, "It's a really hard 5.9, it'd probably be 11a in Yosemite!"


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: The beginning of the route (where the piton/retro-bolt used to be) takes some small gear - I placed a #00 C3 and a nut, each of which I tested by hanging most of my weight from and they seemed solid enough. You could maybe even fiddle in some additional micro-nuts and get it all equalized into a little nest of gear if you want; you're at a great stance, so you have all the time in the world to decide for yourself if the gear is up to your liking. You pull the crux with this gear ... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Holey Terror : Holy Terror (5.7 X)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Most of the route is unprotected 4th and easy 5th class scrambling along the ridge (actually an arch, though you might not realize it until the rap down). The brief 5.7/5.8 crux near the top however is very well protected by a fat shiny bolt. Not an ideal route for new leaders, but not 5.7X either.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Public Sanitation Wall : Wide Thing (5.10d)
By: Bryan G When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: I hiked up there once with a couple big cams and the intention of getting on Wide Thing. From the ground it looks kind of scary and super dirty. I think you also have to do a short and ugly approach pitch just to get to the start of the climbing.

We ended up sport climbing at the upper tier instead.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Lexington Tower : East Face (5.9+)
By: Bryan G When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: This climb is longer than the 800ft the Supertopo gives it. I wouldn't recommend a #6. The "crux OW" is sport bolted, easy, and has lots of face holds so you don't even need to get in it.

We rappelled the route with two 60m ropes which allowed us to bring ice axes for the snow slope at the base without having to carry them up the climb. But late in the season when the base is melted out it's probably better to go up and over.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Silver Star and connected s... : ... : North Face (5.8)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: The new Supertopo shows 3 variations on the last pitch. We took the left variation up a nice long chimney in a right-facing corner. This finish is great and I highly recommend it. However, directly above the chimney is a nice looking offwidth corner crack, and although it's clean and high quality, don't go up it unless you are prepared to downclimb. It tops out at a knife edge block with no rap anchor. You'll find a lonely 1/4" stud (no hanger or nut) on top. The proper finish to the summit is t... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Boogie 'til you Puke (5.11b)
By: Bryan G When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: The rack I would recommend is a single set of cams from 3"-6" with two cams in the 4.5" (#5 Camalot) size.

Although a bit more technical than the Scimitar, this is still way soft for 5.11b.


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