Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Apr 12, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2014
Contact BruceB


Point Rank: # 5,755
Total Points: 64
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BruceB been climbing?










Contributions


All 366 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 5 | Stars 223 | Ratings 96
Page 1 of 15.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown Off Width

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (2)

Trad, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 1st Tier

May 5, 2014

Felsic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (13)

Sport, 1 pitch, 160'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Felsic stays just right of the dike

Felsic stays just right of the dike

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Felsic (5.9)

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Little Sheeba (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, more to it than it looks. #2 BD worked for the top.

Unless my rope suddenly shrank, I'd say 60m isn't really long enough. We had some minor shenanigans rapping off onto the large boulder on the left side. I'd recommend a 70m rope.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Deadwood Crags : Deadwood Wall : Of Coarse Corner (5.9-)
By: BruceB When: May 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice route. The lower section is a bit loose and gritty, psychologically the crux for me. The upper finger/hand crack is clean, secure and really fun. More of that would make the climb 3 star.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : The Tiers : 2nd Tier
By: BruceB When: May 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Laine,
You could be right, it is a bit loose on top, although mostly just DG.
However I did notice that the anchors are "Metolius rap hangers", so I'm not sure they would ever have had chains. These are different to all the other anchors I've seen on the Tiers.
It didn't seem any more unsafe than the surrounding routes, and is actually quite a fun route.

Thanks for all your work Laine.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : The Tiers : 2nd Tier
By: BruceB When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed a route that is just left of Orange wedge. Left facing corner around a roof.
Seemed to go at about 5.9. Pros nicely. I'd give it 2 to 3 stars.
Fat hangers (not chains) at the top.

It's not on the topo map. Any info on this climb??


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : The Tiers : ... : Tall People Reach Short Peo... (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice finger jams to hand jams. I'd give it 3 stars if it was a longer. Worth doing.
You can't see from the ground, but there are chains on top of the arete.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : The Tiers : ... : Ativan Grin (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thin friction and balancy moves through the crux. Pros nicely with care. Many micro to finger size cams recommended. I couldn't get wired nuts to work very well, but that's not to say they couldn't in the right hands. Needs 70m rope.
Slightly gritty right now, but would clean up nicely with more use.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Jhana (5.9+)
By: BruceB When: Apr 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thin move in the middle, slightly sustained through the lie back. Not really sporty, all the bolts are where you need them. Fun route.
From the anchors you can rappel/pendulum to both the 5.10's either side.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Hermaphrodite Flake (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Jul 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We planned to rap off after the first pitch of "Boltway" but didn't find any rap rings at the belay, just 3 bolts (2 old). So we finished up boltway and walked off.
Boltway is certainly well bolted, but about half of the bolts are somewhat small and old, and one is a very bad 1/4" rusty bolt.
Fun slab climbing though.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn's Pinnacle : West Pillar (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Jul 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Highly recommend the direct variation.
Pitch #2 starts with some beautiful hand jams through a committing bulge (5.8) followed by a steep ramp with more great hand and fist jams (5.8+) to a sloping ledge.
Pitch #3 starts with a committing layback or finger jam up a steep corner. Good hands but thin feet, it only last for about 8 feet. IMO 510a/b. Then there's a good rest followed by another nice but easier layback. Then a bunch of easy 5th to a great belay.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: BruceB When: Jun 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. Second pitch is fantastic. Ditto "davecro": #4 and #5 camalots make for a nice belay at the start of the P2 double cracks, but also make the 3rd pitch offwidth much safer. Three #2's on the stellar P2 hand crack work great.

Rating a climb by how it feels on-sight lead, I'd say P1 is 10a.

Later edit: #3 and #4 also work for the P1 anchor, and the #4 is enough for P3. leave the #5 on the ground.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : Scorpio (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Jun 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a nice finger crack/stemming problem. Although I haven't personally led it, I think it would make a nice (and challenging) trad lead for an aspiring 5.8 leader.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Jun 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is certainly an adventurous, alpine like climb.

The first 70 or so feet are still quite dirty with a few creaky blocks. After that it improves noticeably, although you'll still find some dirt and plant life. It hadn't rained for a few days but there was still a bit of water here and there (but not on any other routes we did).

Having said that, this is still a great route. Rarely less than 5.8, with a few 5.9 moves thrown in. Keeps you on your toes (figuratively speaking!), with a good mi... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Morticia (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I followed on this and decided to go directly thru and over the center of the roof. That's a fun move and probably about 5.9. It's unfortunate that the first bolt is so far to the left as it means that leading it this way requires a slightly thin left traverse and precarious leaning over to clip the bolt. Very fun route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Just wanted to echo Nick_Cov's comment. It looks intimidating and pumpy from the ground, but there are quite a few good stances to rest and place gear. There's a surprising number of good holds on the flake itself, and good footholds on the right face. Two #3's and a #4 work great thru the top section.

After Leading it, I did TR it only lie-backing the whole thing - now that is pumpy!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Sep 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great little route. It might be short, but it sure gets the blood pumping. Save some strength for the last couple of moves. Protects great.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Rapid Transit (5.8 PG13)
By: BruceB When: Aug 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Carville shows another climb also on this face called "Shake it out" rated at 5.10b. I think I started on Rapid Transit by staying left of the easy flakes and right of the arete, but then headed straight up through the thinnest areas and finally through a thin roof and finger crack which I think is the end of Shake it out. I would rate that line about 5.10b. Worth doing - on top rope. Basically ditto what Aerili said.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Aug 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun and adventurous climb. Every pitch is interesting in its own way. The last pitch (5.8 variation) is absolutely beautiful.

A little beta on the chimney: On the first chimney pitch there's a rather exposed and hard to protect short traverse before you get into the chimney, then the actual chimney section is very short and easy. The 2nd chockstone where you belay is only about 10 feet above the corridor floor. If you have packs it's easy to haul them up the 10 feet separately.
The actual ... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Railroad Tracks (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Aug 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This route is really quite grassy. We also had a big thunderstorm the day before and that resulted in a number a wet areas. Both these things took some of the fun out of it for me (leading).

Same comment on rope lengths as Cam, but I combined his pitch 3&4.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Farewell to Arms (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Jul 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I found the crux (upper finger crack) really tough to lead through. It takes pro well, but stopping to place it saps all your strength. The crack is rounded over so it's tough to lay back, and the crack is off-finger for me so is hard to get good finger locks.
Strenuous for sure!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Black September (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Tyson, I have to agree with Aerili, it sounds like you're approaching the wide section incorrectly. There's no reason to get inside the chimney.

I just climbed this again and have to say it's one of my favorite climbs at Donner. Not too hard, but no give away, and just fantastic jamming from fingers to wide hands (I'm not sure I would say OW - but maybe I have big hands)

I think I would also redefine the crux like this: technical crux is the finger crack right off the deck, and the strength cr... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Stradivarius (5.8)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Absolutely great initial crack. Beautiful hand jams and steep. The only dowfall is the shortness of the crack. The face above is fun enough. Well spaced bolts, but easy.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Narcolepsy (5.8)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The beginning is so-so and the crack only moderately interesting. Not sure why it gets 4 stars in the book. I did go beyond the first chain anchors to climb a couple more feet of a nice dihedral, but the bulge to the ledge above is very loose and dirty. I stepped left to a new set of mussy hooks over another (new?) climb. Exactly 100 foot rap. Better to stop at the first chains.


Page 1 of 15.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>