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Member Since: Apr 12, 2011
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Total Points: 84
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 464 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 5 | Stars 286 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown Off Width

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3)

Trad, 60'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 1st Tier

May 5, 2014

Felsic

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (14)

Sport, 1 pitch, 160'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

Tight, even for a skinny lad like me!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)

5 days ago

Sunset

Sunset

CA : High Sierra : ... : Incredible Hulk

5 days ago

Felsic stays just right of the dike

Felsic stays just right of the dike

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Felsic (5.9)

Aug 24, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mountaineer's Dome : American Wet Dream (5.10b R)
By: BruceB When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Adventurous route that will test mid 5.10 leaders - it did me!

Metolius 00/0 offset fits perfectly above the bolt on P4. IMHO it's quite a bit harder than 5.7 until the next good gear!

The 10b corner move felt easy compared to the finger tip corner of P2 and the finger tip layback of P3. Both protect well, but getting in gear definitely adds to the strenuous factor.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10c)
By: BruceB When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun route. For me the pitch ratings felt; 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10b.
TR'd Hallpass, very good, but would be a bit spooky to lead the traverse over the roof.
Also TR'd Strikeslip P3 and P1 on the way down. P3 would make a good alternative to Three Hour Arete P3, but P1 felt a bit contrived.
Had the whole arete to ourselves but counted 20 vehicles in the Sheelite canyon parking area!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Quail Trail (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: May 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great first pitch, but agree with Shibby, last bolt on P1 is too far to the right to comfortably clip, unless you wait until it's at waist level.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Black Wall : Hungover Hangover (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: May 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Short and stout. And with tape, fun too.
The exit from the pod is a little awkward but the whole pitch takes great pro.

Did pitch 2 by going up the big corner and then cracks on the right face. Kinda dirty and vegetated in places. Nothing special but not terrible either. I don't think it sees much traffic. Next time I'll probably rap the 10a pitch then continue over to Touch and Go or Bourbon Street for a more satisfying finish.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: BruceB When: May 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Such a fun route. We had it to ourselves which was a huge improvement compared to the clusterf**k on Birdland the day before. And more adventurous too.
The last pitch is a total blast, a bit of all sorts with great exposure. There is good pro, you just need to be creative. Definitely not X or R, even PG is stretching it.
Easy hike off.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Slackjaw (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Apr 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Leading up to the roof is easy enough, but the finish sure gets your attention.
It's a bit sequencey, although depending on your strengths I think there's different ways to tackle it. Initially I tried just the crack to finish and that's waaay hard!
It's very well protected so it's a fun challenge.
Technically it may be 5.10a, but as on onsight it's closer to 5.10b


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Silence of the Poodles (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Apr 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun hand crack with a little face, solid 5.8.
Bring the rack for this and a bunch of trad stuff at the Dihedrals. Clean rock and nice splitters.
If this was in Yosemite it would be granite.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Gemini Cracks (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Apr 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've approached this route both by going around the toe and also by doing the direct start. I'd say the latter is just as quick, less scrambling up dirty gullies, and it's a more direct rappel back to your packs. Plus you'll get an extra pitch of climbing. There are 5 bolts on the direct start slab, plus some pro options to reduce the runout. Lana is spot on with how to find the start.

Official Pitch #1 will be the crux unless you have huge mitts and can fist jam the offwidth. Otherwise i... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Coral Sea Adventure (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know what the start was like before, but it's definitely not 5.7/8 now. I'd say somewhere in the 5.9+/5.10 range. And by the time you get to a safe stance the first bolt is chest level. Good climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Wild Wind (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Mar 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun and challenging route to lead. The traverse can be protected very nicely with a BD 0.4 X4. I wouldn't want to lead it without some pro there - nasty swing.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Little Sheeba (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Jun 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, more to it than it looks. #2 BD worked for the top.

Unless my rope suddenly shrank, I'd say 60m isn't really long enough. We had some minor shenanigans rapping off onto the large boulder on the left side. I'd recommend a 70m rope.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Deadwood Crags : ... : Of Coarse Corner (5.9-)
By: BruceB When: May 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice route. The lower section is a bit loose and gritty, psychologically the crux for me. The upper finger/hand crack is clean, secure and really fun. More of that would make the climb 3 star.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : 2nd Tier
By: BruceB When: May 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Laine,
You could be right, it is a bit loose on top, although mostly just DG.
However I did notice that the anchors are "Metolius rap hangers", so I'm not sure they would ever have had chains. These are different to all the other anchors I've seen on the Tiers.
It didn't seem any more unsafe than the surrounding routes, and is actually quite a fun route.

Thanks for all your work Laine.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : 2nd Tier
By: BruceB When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed a route that is just left of Orange wedge. Left facing corner around a roof.
Seemed to go at about 5.9. Pros nicely. I'd give it 2 to 3 stars.
Fat hangers (not chains) at the top.

It's not on the topo map. Any info on this climb??


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : Tall People Reach Short Peo... (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Nice finger jams to hand jams. I'd give it 3 stars if it was a longer. Worth doing.
You can't see from the ground, but there are chains on top of the arete.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : Ativan Grin (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thin friction and balancy moves through the crux. Pros nicely with care. Many micro to finger size cams recommended. I couldn't get wired nuts to work very well, but that's not to say they couldn't in the right hands. Needs 70m rope.
Slightly gritty right now, but would clean up nicely with more use.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Jhana (5.9+)
By: BruceB When: Apr 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thin move in the middle, slightly sustained through the lie back. Not really sporty, all the bolts are where you need them. Fun route.
From the anchors you can rappel/pendulum to both the 5.10's either side.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Hermaphrodite Flake (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Jul 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We planned to rap off after the first pitch of "Boltway" but didn't find any rap rings at the belay, just 3 bolts (2 old). So we finished up boltway and walked off.
Boltway is certainly well bolted, but about half of the bolts are somewhat small and old, and one is a very bad 1/4" rusty bolt.
Fun slab climbing though.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn Pinnacle : West Pillar (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Jul 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Highly recommend the direct variation.
Pitch #2 starts with some beautiful hand jams through a committing bulge (5.8) followed by a steep ramp with more great hand and fist jams (5.8+) to a sloping ledge.
Pitch #3 starts with a committing layback or finger jam up a steep corner. Good hands but thin feet, it only last for about 8 feet. IMO 510a/b. Then there's a good rest followed by another nice but easier layback. Then a bunch of easy 5th to a great belay.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Deimos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: BruceB When: Jun 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. Second pitch is fantastic. Ditto "davecro": #4 and #5 camalots make for a nice belay at the start of the P2 double cracks, but also make the 3rd pitch offwidth much safer. Three #2's on the stellar P2 hand crack work great.

Rating a climb by how it feels on-sight lead, I'd say P1 is 10a.

Later edit: #3 and #4 also work for the P1 anchor, and the #4 is enough for P3. leave the #5 on the ground.


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