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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : Scorpio (5.8)
By: BruceB When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice finger crack/stemming problem. Although I haven't personally led it, I think it would make a nice (and challenging) trad lead for an aspiring 5.8 leader.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Jun 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is certainly an adventurous, alpine like climb.
The first 70 or so feet are still quite dirty with a few creaky blocks. After that it improves noticeably, although you'll still find some dirt and plant life. It hadn't rained for a few days but there was still a bit of water here and there (but not on any other routes we did).
Having said that, this is still a great route. Rarely less than 5.8, with a few 5.9 moves thrown in. Keeps you on your toes (figuratively speaking!), with a good mi... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Morticia (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I followed on this and decided to go directly thru and over the center of the roof. That's a fun move and probably about 5.9. It's unfortunate that the first bolt is so far to the left as it means that leading it this way requires a slightly thin left traverse and precarious leaning over to clip the bolt. Very fun route.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to echo Nick_Cov's comment. It looks intimidating and pumpy from the ground, but there are quite a few good stances to rest and place gear. There's a surprising number of good holds on the flake itself, and good footholds on the right face. Two #3's and a #4 work great thru the top section.
After Leading it, I did TR it only lie-backing the whole thing - now that is pumpy!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great little route. It might be short, but it sure gets the blood pumping. Save some strength for the last couple of moves. Protects great.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Rapid Transit (5.8 PG13)
By: BruceB When: Aug 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Carville shows another climb also on this face called "Shake it out" rated at 5.10b. I think I started on Rapid Transit by staying left of the easy flakes and right of the arete, but then headed straight up through the thinnest areas and finally through a thin roof and finger crack which I think is the end of Shake it out. I would rate that line about 5.10b. Worth doing - on top rope. Basically ditto what Aerili said.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun and adventurous climb. Every pitch is interesting in its own way. The last pitch (5.8 variation) is absolutely beautiful.
A little beta on the chimney: On the first chimney pitch there's a rather exposed and hard to protect short traverse before you get into the chimney, then the actual chimney section is very short and easy. The 2nd chockstone where you belay is only about 10 feet above the corridor floor. If you have packs it's easy to haul them up the 10 feet separately.
The actual ... more >>
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Railroad Tracks (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is really quite grassy. We also had a big thunderstorm the day before and that resulted in a number a wet areas. Both these things took some of the fun out of it for me (leading).
Same comment on rope lengths as Cam, but I combined his pitch 3&4.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Farewell to Arms (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the crux (upper finger crack) really tough to lead through. It takes pro well, but stopping to place it saps all your strength. The crack is slightly rounded over so is a bit tough to lay back, and the crack is off-finger for me, so is hard to get good finger locks. Quite a few hangs.
In a more recent attempt, I still had one hang, but I found some better feet placement. I'll get it next time!
The lower section a bit tricky too, I feel off-balance through it, and the pro, while adequa... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Black September (5.9)
By: BruceB When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tyson, I have to agree with Aerili, it sounds like you're approaching the wide section incorrectly. There's no reason to get inside the chimney.
I just climbed this again and have to say it's one of my favorite climbs at Donner. Not too hard, but no give away, and just fantastic jamming from fingers to wide hands (I'm not sure I would say OW - but maybe I have big hands)
I think I would also redefine the crux like this: technical crux is the finger crack right off the deck, and the strength cr... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Stradivarius (5.8)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely great initial crack. Beautiful hand jams and steep. The only dowfall is the shortness of the crack. The face above is fun enough. Well spaced bolts, but easy.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Narcolepsy (5.8)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The beginning is so-so and the crack only moderately interesting. Not sure why it gets 4 stars in the book. I did go beyond the first chain anchors to climb a couple more feet of a nice dihedral, but the bulge to the ledge above is very loose and dirty. I stepped left to a new set of mussy hooks over another (new?) climb. Exactly 100 foot rap. Better to stop at the first chains.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely sequential to get passed the first bolt. Bomber hold by the second bolt. Stays interesting throughout with a little pump at the end. Quality.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : Borrowing From Tradition (5.10b)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. A somewhat bold first bolt, then a strenuous hands with thin feet sidestep (crux) after clipping the second bolt, followed by a fun sustained 5.9 crack/layback to the anchors. Note that these anchors are just chains. It is possible to continue up and right to some mussy hooks at the top of a new route on the far right side of this face.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : Cholito (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: May 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun, nice airy finish. Depending on your skills either the bulge half way up or the initial dihedral could be considered the crux. Both are in the 5.9/10a range. Well worth doing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun climb. At this grade it's hard to imagine much better, so I think it's worth 4 stars. The last pitch is simply a blast.
We entered the park at 6am, got on the climb at 7:30 and had the climb to ourselves until we rapelled down to the top of pitch 1 at 1pm. Here we met four parties all trying to rush up. Crazy!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun romp, steep with big holds. Except for the crux which requires a couple of slabby/stemming moves on pitch 3, but even here there's some good holds just where you'd want them. Pitch 4 is a bit runout, but it's straight forward.
The thing that spoils this climb is the decent. We did the double rope rappel down pitch 3 and 4, then the 4 singles down the chimney. It's not the time rquired to do this, but the anxiety that's an issue. On 3 of the 4 rope pulls the rope got a bit stuck, b... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Kindergarten Cop (5.7+)
By: BruceB When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new bolts are wonderful - thanks.
This is a super fun route. The roof is easier than if first looks and protects really well. Higher up, the natural pro requires a bit of creativity, but if done right it's certainly not a runout route.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Jellyroll Arch (5.8)
By: BruceB When: Oct 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried the 5.9(+?) variation on pitch 2 (the right exit crack through the roof). I saw the previous comment on the "beta photo" that said don't wear a helmet and was a bit confused. Not anymore. It is incredibly awkward transitioning from the undercling to pulling around the edge of the roof. My head kept getting in the way! But I figured it out in the end, without removing my helmet.
Great rock, protects well and takes great hand jams, but expect a bit of a fight!
Definitely a more exciting fi... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Touch and Go (5.9)
By: BruceB When: Oct 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are quite a few ways to do this climb. This is how I did it on my first attempt. It seemed to work out as a natural line.
Pitch 1: I started the climb by going up the right side of cannibal gulley (5.7?) to the fixed anchors and nice ledge below Empty sky.
Pitch 2: Goes up a 5.7 corner. Nice hand jams with some lie back and face moves. Eases off to a ramp up to a head wall. Natural pro anchor.
Pitch 3: I climbed up the nice clean corner, through the delicate thin crux (5.9) to a small ledg... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Rat's Tooth (5.10a)
By: BruceB When: Sep 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm a 5.10- leader and found this pretty challenging. Getting in good pro in the bottom section lieback is very pumpy. The escape from the top chimney is definitely awkward and a bit exposed.
Technical in places, strenuous in others, make this a great climb.
The anchors at the top are too far to the left to make this top ropeable.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Wall (5.5 PG13)
By: BruceB When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely adventure climbing, and fun too.
I'd say P1 is 5.6, and a bit awkward/weird in places. There's probably a few different ways to attack the corner/blocky flakes. Not difficult, but a bit committing in places.
P2 is great fun, and I'd say also 5.6, but very exposed. I can certainly see how you could get off route and make it harder. From the main belay ledge I stepped left about 6 feet out on to the face then climbed straight up about 35 feet. This follows a crack and protects well. The... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Rated X (5.7)
By: BruceB When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Before starting the climb I didn't know whether I'd climb the 5.7 or the 5.9 variation on P2. But after getting to P2 I couldn't see any reason to do the 5.7 meandering zigzag. It seemed dirty and not attractive at all.
The 5.9 variation however is great. I didn't think the OW was bad at all. The 5.9 roof is way fun, but takes a bit of working out. Initially I couldn't reach the bomber ledge above the right corner of the roof, but after figuring the hand sequence it went nicely. Protects well t... more >>
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