Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: Bruce Pech When: Mar 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't been climbing for a few years (illness, injuries) and wondered if Dude's Dihedral is still rated 11-. As I recall from a 2008 ascent, it seemed hard for the grade (or I was off-route).
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Natural Selection (5.11a/b)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rapping with a 70m rope is iffy. Some cords may reach the deck with stretch but ours fetched up just above the first bolt on Tierra del Fuego. However, a ledge system to the right of the bolt offers a 10'-15' 4th class downclimb.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Bruce Pech When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Snakes Eyes is the start to do. Small tips are an asset in the thin crack and tiny pocket at the crux (harder, IMHO, than another fine, crimpy face -- Chairman of the Board at Avalon). Excellent route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Batso Canal (5.10)
By: Bruce Pech When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, Kirk. A smidge better and harder than Beasto and Turkey Jerky. Cool moves traversing out to the arete. The start was a bit reachy for 5'3" Wendy.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice
By: Bruce Pech When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The City and interested climbers attempted to negotiate releases from the aqueduct at the Lower Falls a few years ago. Liability and property ownership issues exist and the idea was shelved. As far as I know, neither climbers nor the City have revisited the matter.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Back of the Nineties : Mission Vision (5.10 PG13)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is quite height-dependent. If you're 5'2" or 5'3", the crimp and high step past the bulge may feel like hard .11, not .10.
The bolting's consistent with the climbing. The runouts are on moderate rock and someone's extended the reachy clip with a quicklink.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Back of the Nineties : Aphrodite (5.10d)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rarely give sport routes 4 stars but geoffe077 is right. Aphrodite is probably the best hard .10 in Clear Creek with sustained, thoughtful climbing, four .10 cruxes, and a puzzling roof exit that struck me as harder than the straightforward guidebook crux at the 9th bolt.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Back of the Nineties : Priapos (5.10d)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux between the 8th and 9th bolts is a bit spicy: insecure moves with the 8th bolt at your feet before you can clip the 9th bolt and yard on the big jug. But fun too.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Photo
By: Bruce Pech When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup. The loose flake wasn't loose at all. Much ado about nothing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Is It Ready Yet...Moe (5.10-)
By: Bruce Pech When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Isn't Life Strange (5.11c)
By: Bruce Pech When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is tricky and sustained from the 3rd bolt to the anchors -- maybe .10c but it felt more like .10d to me. The wild second pitch is probably .11c onsight (easier once you've worked out the beta). Another excellent addition to Boulder Canyon.
As Chris said, there's a nasty 20"x20" death block to the right of the first bolt on the second pitch. Although it looks like a good stemming foothold, it's completely detached from the wall. Be careful.
A 70m rope isn't mandatory but makes i... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Bruce Pech When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Sidekick (5.11a/b)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: No move harder than .10d, but the sustained climbing merits an .11a. Several surprisngly good rests and shakes. Probably the best single pitch on any route starting from the dirt ledge.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Generous Donation (5.11b/c)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Ken, I did a high step right at the top of the headwall. It appeared to be the logical exit move.
For a pretty nice, quasi-three pitch route, climb both pitches of Toe the Line, rap back to the belay beneath the headwall, and finish up Generous Donation
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Toe The Line (5.10b)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael.
The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Tag Team (5.10d)
By: Bruce Pech When: Jul 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "You are right, I went straight up since the holds were bigger and cleaned. Thus my proposed grade of 5.11 b/c when I freed it."
Bruno, not knowing about the bolt above the roof, I worked my feet up to the good holds near the highest bolt under the roof and then torqued right to the hold occupied by your right foot in the crux photo. Which illustrates another point about ratings: different people read rock differently -- especially on-sight without colored tape (OK, chalk) to identify the "righ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Total Eclipse (5.10a)
By: Bruce Pech When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Totally clips" -- a Robbins caliber pun. Yes, it can be climbed with gear. It's also a pleasant sport climb. Does it really matter?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Tag Team (5.10d)
By: Bruce Pech When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two enjoyable pitches. The crux on the first pitch seemed like .10c; pulling the right edge of overhang on the second pitch seemed like .10d. Going directly over the roof to the bolt above the lip (which isn't visible from below) would definitely be harder.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Hammer Down (5.11c) : Photo (Copy)
By: Bruce Pech When: Sep 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Peter Hunt noted in a comment appended to an earlier iteration of this photo, Hammer Down (D), not Union of Earth (E), traverses right above the initial roof, climbs the left-facing corner, turns the roof above, and finishes at the belay shared with Around Midnight.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Hammer Down (5.11c)
By: Bruce Pech When: Sep 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What David said. The final roof felt considerably harder than most Dream Canyon-Boulder Canyon .11cs. Stem and finger jam as high as possible, then make several improbable, right-facing layback moves to the tiny stance at the anchors. (This sequence worked for me after I was shut down on my first three tries. YMMV.)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : War Horse (5.10c)
By: Bruce Pech When: Sep 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pebby & Richard -- Thx for replacing the anchors. You guys (and Bob D, Vaino, Dan H et. al) should ask Culp and Neptune's to collect donations for the $$$ you've spent on bolts and hangers over the past several years.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Karma Chameleon (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Bruce Pech When: Sep 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this as a second pitch to Midnight Express. 3rd or 4th class diagonally left up a slabby ledge for 30' to reach the belay from ME's anchors.
Pros: tricky, strenuous cruxes on the 2nd and 3rd bulging/overhanging walls.
Cons: Serious ledge fall risk between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the 2nd wall (just below the crux transition from the discontinuous layback crack to standing on a 3" wide ledge); some ledge fall risk between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the 3rd wall. Nasty rope drag (... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Ten Broek RV Park in the town of Ten Sleep offers sybaritic climbers weary of USFS campgrounds tent sites, communal bathrooms and showers, a laundry room, and clean, "primitive" cabins equipped with air-conditioners and electricity. The Park is a short block's walk from the town's bars, cafe, espresso joint, and ice cream parlor -- and a 10-30 minute drive from the Canyon's climbing areas. Tent sites are $19/day; cabins start at $36/day. Call ahead for more information and reservat... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Dream Land aka Beer Bong Wa... : Beer Bong (5.10b)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I counted 10 bolts on August 24, 2006. The spectacular but comparatively easy finish is worth 4 stars.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Mystery Ship (5.10a)
By: Bruce Pech When: Aug 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sporting runouts between the bolts and quite a few .10 moves. Although I may be biased because it was the end of the day and my tips were sore, I thought the crux headwall was more like .10c than .10a. And, while there's still lichen on the route, it *has* cleaned up nicely. Our thanks to everyone who's wire brushed it.
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