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Member Since: Oct 17, 2002
Last Visit: May 24, 2011
Contact Bruce Morris


Point Rank: # 1,797
Total Points: 305
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (93) | Routes (9) | Areas (1) | Photos (34) | Comments (30) | Posts | Stars (13) | Ratings (6)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Summit Rock
By: Bruce Morris When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: The Access Fund is currently trying to negotiate with Santa Clara County Parks to have a seasonal closure of Summit Rock. This would allow Peregrine falcon nesting and fledging from January through July and leave Summit available for climbing the rest of the year.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Photo
By: Bruce Morris When: Jan 27, 2008

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Comments: Great views from California Ridge (i.e. Cal Cliff). Now, Billy Blitzo has memorialized them.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Clamydia (5.11d)
By: Bruce Morris When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: Yes, the original "Clamydia" goes straight up the steep face to the right of the ramp until it reaches the start of the crux. A little more ground fall potential this way.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Jo Mama (5.8)
By: Bruce Morris When: Mar 31, 2007

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Comments: Think that Kimberly Glinka and I did this route way back when. Bruce Morris.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Bruce Morris When: Feb 1, 2007

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Comments: Billy-
Did you shoot it, skin it, cook it, and eat it?


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : * Castle Rock Bouldering : Bates Arete Boulder : Bates Arete (V4 R)
By: Bruce Morris When: Sep 16, 2006

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Comments: Barry Bates did the FA. Not "Billy" Bates (whoever that is).


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : The Muffins : The Sticky Green Traverse (V6)
By: Bruce Morris When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: Yes, I finally found it, too, in back of the Clamydia anchors. It seemed to me that it would be nice to have plenty of crash pads and few spotters if you wanted to try it. There's some nice stuff up small pockets on the wall just below it, but this new stuff all looked V9 and above.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Clamydia (5.11d)
By: Bruce Morris When: Aug 23, 2006

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Comments: RZ, the sadistic route setter at Planet Granite, said it seemed harder than 5.11d to him (and he under-rates everything).


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Chew Tooth : Center Route (5.12a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Aug 23, 2006

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Comments: Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route in 1990.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Chew Tooth : Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan (5.10a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Aug 23, 2006

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Comments: Dimitri Barton did the FA of this route solo in 1990. The bolts were added (with DB's permission) a short while later.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : The Globule : Baby Fat (5.11a R)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 30, 2006

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Comments: The straight up finish is the true crux.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Billy Goat Rock : Bridwell Bolt Route (5.11b)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: All bolts except TR anchors seem to have been removed before March 2006.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Billy Goat Rock : Permanent Erection (5.11a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: First two bolts on the Permanent Erection have been removed by person or persons unknown (c. March 2006). Why? They were 3/8".


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Indian Rock : Viscious Circles (5.10c)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jun 28, 2006

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Comments: Actually, the 4th bolt is not gratuitous. When you clip it, you traverse left and finish the route by doing a left-hand mantle up on a tiny edge to a sloper. This adds another 5.10 move to the route.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Greeboo (5.9)
By: Bruce Morris When: Feb 20, 2006

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Comments: The 10c way is not shown in the Falcon Guide by Tresa Black. After the second bolt of the Greebo, traverse up and left to a third bolt via a series of mantles (5.10c). After you clip the third bolt you can do the same 5.11a variation as the Oracle (thin, thin face). See Rock Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard (2000), p. 81, to corroborate.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Oracle (5.11a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Feb 20, 2006

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Comments: The FA was done by Marc Hill in 1991 or so.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Oracle (5.11a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Aug 24, 2005

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Comments: No, the center route is definitely a TR (but a good 'un).


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Degeneration (5.10a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 17, 2005

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Comments: When I set a TR on this route two weeks ago (6/05) I started rapping down until I reached the cave beneath the face crux. There they were, again! The terrible twins, Vultus and Vulta! A mother turkey vulture has again had a pair of chics in the cave and she definitely does not like climbers! She made an ugly noise like she was going to throw up on me (ie. 'projectile vomit'), so I rapped down quickly and pulled the line. Beware! The twins will be patrolling the descent gully for at least another... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Oracle (5.11a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 17, 2005

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Comments: The hard variation everyone is talking about is actually the true "Greebo" line that many people avoid by traversing right (5.9+) early on. IOWs: If you're single stay single, if you're married stay marrierd - if you start on the Greeboo, stay on the Greeboo; if you start on the Oracle, stay on the Oracle! PS- There's a dandy 5.11 that runs up right between them, too.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : The Muffins : Pocket Change (V4)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 4, 2005

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Comments: Kinda sandy for a mega-classic.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : The Muffins : The Sticky Green Traverse (V6)
By: Bruce Morris When: Jul 4, 2005

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Comments: Pic of Drunken Master looks good, but where the heck is the Stick Green Traverse? Been down and looked twice, but still can't find it at the Muffins. Is it on the backside of the so-called Upper Muffin?


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Degeneration (5.10a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Feb 23, 2005

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Comments: That's why Don Simmons and I put it up: to give beginning leaders a chance to practice placing trad camming gear at Castle Rock. Wondered if anyone else noticed out intent? Also, beware Vultus and Vulta, the terrible twin baby buzzards, who live in the caves below the crux. They often patrol the descent gully in the spring and will launch 'projectile vomit' in your face if provoked!


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Crazy Face (5.11a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Oct 30, 2004

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Comments: To be specific, I think it was June 1977 that Bill Feiges and I did the FA of this route. Remember that the first moves were crux.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: Bruce Morris When: Oct 26, 2004

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Comments: In any case, Eric W. and I probably did the first ascent of both pitches as one. I think what people didn't like was that it was described in Climbing magazine as the "hardest crack climb in Colorado"! Certainly not the case, even in 1977! Nice route though. I remember now that Eric Doub tried it in 1975, too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Electra Glide (5.8+)
By: Bruce Morris When: Oct 15, 2004

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Comments: Dave Rosenthal and I did this route in July 1977 and called it the "Masterbatorium" (5.9-). Remember it was a fun crack lead. It really seemed ours was the FA, though, because we had to clean the crack top-to- bottom before leading it. Lots of mud, small tree and bushes. Perhaps Scott W. TRed it earlier, but ours was certainly the first true ground up lead ascent. Maybe the name was too impure for the Boulder-scene of that time? Tried doing a Goggle-search and found plenty of examples of the usu... more >>


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