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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 1,033
Total Points: 565
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas are worth 15
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Bruce Hildenbrand

 
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All (297) | Routes (25) | Areas (8) | Photos (11) | Comments (140) | Posts (81) | Stars (29) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 23, 2004

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Comments: As someone who does a bit of rebolting work with the ASCA I would just like to say that Greg, Chris, etc. run a very ethical organization. I can tell you first hand that people like Greg, who probably replaces 100-200 bolts, or more, per year, is doing this gratis. Luckily his girlfriend has a truck since his truck has had a blown head gasket for a long time.

And, not to downplay the efforts made in rebolting single pitch routes, the ASCA has been responsible for rebolting many multi-pitch ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 8, 2004

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Comments: A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Leisure Time Arete (5.11a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 24, 2003

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Comments: This is a new route in Eldorado Canyon up on Rincon Wall. At present, the route is done as a toprope as bolts would be needed to protect it on lead. Sometime in the future, this route may be submitted to the Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Review Committee for consideration. Your comments on the route are greatly appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 15, 2003

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Comments: In response to the comments about the new anchor....

3/8" bolts are absolutely fine for belay/rappel anchors. They have a pull-out strength of over 5000 pounds if properly installed and are not subject to the dynamic loading of a protection bolt.

We left the original bolts in place because some people still belay from the top of a climb, rather than lowering off, and the existing bolts are fine for that. We did not just pull the existing bolts and re-drill because the bolts were too far back... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 14, 2003

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Comments: Dale Haas and I, with approval from the first acent party, fixed up the anchor on top of this route. We left the original three anchor bolts in place and added two 3/8" Rawl 5-piece (Torque) bolts at the crest of the top of the climb. We addedtwo 3/8" quick links to each bolt for rappelling and lowering.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).Look them up at www.safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support.

A couple of notes on the other bolts on the clim... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 8, 2003

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Comments: Dale Haas and I fixed up the first anchor on pitch #1 (about 60' up). We replaced the old Leeper-style hanger on the left bolt with a Fixe 4mm Stainless Steel hanger. Also, we removed the smash links and assorted hardware from both bolts and installed two 3/8" quicklinks on each bolt.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Check them out at www.safeclimbing.org. They would appreciate your support.

By the way, smash links, also known as lap links, ar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Sayonara (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 10, 2003

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Comments: As a member of the first ascent party (Brett Ruckman and I put up this route several days before I moved to the Bay Area.....hence the name), let me shed some light on the route description.

First off, I thought the start was near impossible (more like 5.11+), moving up and right to some adequate holds. In fact, when I first spotted the route and convinced Brett to do it with me, I had the easier, alternate, start in mind. Oh well, things happen. Anyway, the easier start goes out a finger/ha... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003

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Comments: In the months of May and June, Dale Haas and I added 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links to the cold shuts on Simplexity, the route right of Simplexity, The Hot Zone, The Steeple, Monastic Groove, Southern Hospitality, Pandora's Pebble Pinching Palace, and Gravestones. We also removed a few smash(lap) links in the process.

This work is being carried out as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They would appreciate your suppor... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003

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Comments: In mid-June Rob Copolillo, Dale Haas and I added 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links to the anchors on Old Deuteronomy, Mungajerry, Rumple Teaser, Mr. Mistoffeles, Jellicle Cats, Gumby Cat and MacCavity.The existing 3/8" cold shut anchors were showing signs of wear most likely due to the unfavorable practice of lowering and belaying directly through the anchors.

This work is part of the American Safe Climbing Organization's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They would app... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003

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Comments: In early June, Ron Olsen, Rob Copolillo and I replaced the rappel/lower hardware on five of the seven fixed anchors on this crag. We removed all smash (lap) links and cold shuts and installed 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links plus new hangers where necessary. Also, we removed the worn smash links from the Le Nouveau Riche anchor (it already had quick links).

This work was performed as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. T... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003

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Comments: In early June, Ron Olsen and I replaced all the rappel/lower hardware in the fixed anchors on this crag with 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links. In the process, we removed all smash (lap) links; the ones on the anchor of Grins were especially bad most likely due to the not-recommended practice of belaying and lowering directly through the anchors.

This effort was part of the American Safe Climbing Associations (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchors Campaign. They could use ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Inner Peace (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 19, 2003

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Comments: This route seemed harder to me than 5.9+ more like 5.10b. The description in Gillette's guide mentions"fat holds". I must have missed those at the crux. BTW, the crux is not a single move, more like about 10-15 feet of continuously thin hold climbing between about bolts 6 through 8.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Rumple Teaser (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 18, 2003

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Comments: We added 5/16" quick links with a single link of 3/8" proof coil chain to all the anchors on Catslab (except Skimbleshanks and Grizabella - they had already been"fixed" and Gus and Rum Tum Tugger..???). That should help alleviate wear problems to the cold shuts. When the 3/8" links wear, just unscrew the quick link and replace the link of chain.

Yes, it would be nice if people didn't use the anchors directly for top roping and lowering.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2003

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Comments: This climb is indeed 5.8 you just need some route finding skills to locate the correct holds. Fun! Please do not pass this one by because of claims of a sandbag. It's not.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Traditionalists at Work (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 18, 2003

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Comments: About the buttonhead bolts, when Dale Hass and I put up this route in 1987, we used 5/16" Rawl buttonheads which were cutting edge (supposedly) at the time for lead bolting on granite (it takes sooooo long to drill a hole in granite). Recent experiences by the American Safe ClimbingAssociation (ASCA) indicate that these are a very good choice for lead bolting as they are pretty strong (AKA very hard to remove when re-bolting).


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