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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 1,036
Total Points: 592
Last Year: 86
Last 30 Days: 15
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 318 | Routes 26 | Areas 8 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 157 | Posts 83 | Stars 30 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: In late September, I applied to the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) for a permit to replace the 1/4" belay bolt on Rogue's Arete. The critical question was whether to replace just the single bolt or to replace that one bolt and add a second to ensure a safe belay.

The OSMP contacted the Flatiron Climbing Council's(FCC) Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) which offered an array of points to consider and an opinion to help answer to the question. Terry Murphy, the FHRC c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: I replaced the anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8" x 3.5" Stainless Steel Rawl 5-piece bolts and added quick links and chains for rappel. Note, that you can hit the ground with a 70m rope but a 60m or less will require some downclimbing. There is a second rappel anchor, slings around a tree, on the east side of the ridge crest. If you are going to use this second anchor, make sure you angle a bit to the south when rappelling from the top.

The old anchor consisted of two, old, 15-foot lin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I went up on this climb looking to replace the bolt. However, the bolt was poorly placed in a hole in the rock and we could not place a new bolt directly in the old hole. When we looked for places to move the new bolt it was always close to bomber gear. Hence, we decided not to replace the bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Toponas (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I replaced the 1/4" Rawl protection bolt on this climb with a 3/8" x 3.5" SS Rawl bolt.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I replaced the two, old, 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts as the anchor for this rock with 3/8" SS Rawl bolts and added quick links and chain for rappel.

This hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Elephantiasis (5.10 X)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 30, 2005

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Comments: I replaced the 1/4" Rawl buttonhead compression bolt on the second pitch with a 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolt.

The materials for this work were provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Archer McLanahan (5.10)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Tony Bubb and I replaced the two bolts (one 1/4" rawl split shaft, one 3/8" star dryvin) on this pitch with 3/8" stainless steel (SS) Rawl five piece bolts. And yes, the 1/4 rawl was especially manky!

The American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the materials used in this project. They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 13, 2005

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Comments: On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support.

Bruce

ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without eithe... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: With respect to the ongoing discussion about the thin crack route....

Was the first ascent of this route ever recorded anywhere? Was there a reasonable expectation that other climbers would know about this route? I don't like people adding gear to existing routes, but, if nobody knew the crack had been climbed, then what do you expect. And, having climbed the route just once (or even a few times) doesn't necessarily leave enough of a trace of past visits.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 31, 2004

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Comments: On 10/28/2004, Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quicklinks and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 27, 2004

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Comments: On 10/27/2004 Will Clopton and I replaced the two aging 1/4" bolts and 20 lbs of rotting slings and cordelettes on top of the Backporch with two 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl bolts. We added 3/8" quick links for rappelling. The new bolts are located on the west face of the summit block about five feet from the location of the original bolts. Though there is ample natural protection for a belay on top, the bolts can also be clipped for the belay.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing A... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 27, 2004

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Comments: On 10/27/2004 Will Clopton and I replaced the 1/4" bolt on top of Der Zerkle with a 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl. We added links for rappel. A second 5-piece Rawl bolt with Fixe Ring was already in place. There are now two bolts on top for the rappel.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) and the Anchor Replacement Initiative (www.climbing.com/ari).


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Unknown (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2004

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Comments: On 6/07/04 Ron Olsen and I upgraded the anchor on top of the 1st pitch. We added a hanger to an already existing 3/8" bolt stud and then added quick links and a couple of links of 3/8" chain to the anchor to facilitate a rappel.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA).Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org, they appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2004

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Comments: In June 2004 Ron Olsen and I performed the following anchor upgrades.

-added quick links to top of first pitch of Comanche Warrior on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to anchor on Alley Cat Street-replaced first bolt (in original hole) of Cornered on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to the anchor of Upside the Cranium on the Monkey Skull-added quick links to anchor of the arete route left of Sunshine Dihedral on the Monkey Skulk

This work was supported by ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: On 6/23/04 Dal Haas and I performed the following anchor upgrades on this crag.

-added 4 quick links to the top anchor of Deuces Wild-reversed the quick link anchor (5/16" into bolt, 3/8" to rope) on Cracker Jack-replaced the smash (lap) links with quick links on Ace in the Hole-replaced the smash links with quick links on 5th of July-replaced the smash links with quick links on Stone Cold Moderate-replaced the smash links and quick links with new quick links and rappel rings on Poker Face

Thi... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 23, 2004

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Comments: As someone who does a bit of rebolting work with the ASCA I would just like to say that Greg, Chris, etc. run a very ethical organization. I can tell you first hand that people like Greg, who probably replaces 100-200 bolts, or more, per year, is doing this gratis. Luckily his girlfriend has a truck since his truck has had a blown head gasket for a long time.

And, not to downplay the efforts made in rebolting single pitch routes, the ASCA has been responsible for rebolting many multi-pitch ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 8, 2004

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Comments: A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Leisure Time Arete (5.11a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 24, 2003

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Comments: This is a new route in Eldorado Canyon up on Rincon Wall. At present, the route is done as a toprope as bolts would be needed to protect it on lead. Sometime in the future, this route may be submitted to the Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Review Committee for consideration. Your comments on the route are greatly appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 15, 2003

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Comments: In response to the comments about the new anchor....

3/8" bolts are absolutely fine for belay/rappel anchors. They have a pull-out strength of over 5000 pounds if properly installed and are not subject to the dynamic loading of a protection bolt.

We left the original bolts in place because some people still belay from the top of a climb, rather than lowering off, and the existing bolts are fine for that. We did not just pull the existing bolts and re-drill because the bolts were too far back... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 14, 2003

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Comments: Dale Haas and I, with approval from the first acent party, fixed up the anchor on top of this route. We left the original three anchor bolts in place and added two 3/8" Rawl 5-piece (Torque) bolts at the crest of the top of the climb. We addedtwo 3/8" quick links to each bolt for rappelling and lowering.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).Look them up at www.safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support.

A couple of notes on the other bolts on the clim... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 8, 2003

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Comments: Dale Haas and I fixed up the first anchor on pitch #1 (about 60' up). We replaced the old Leeper-style hanger on the left bolt with a Fixe 4mm Stainless Steel hanger. Also, we removed the smash links and assorted hardware from both bolts and installed two 3/8" quicklinks on each bolt.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Check them out at www.safeclimbing.org. They would appreciate your support.

By the way, smash links, also known as lap links, ar... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Sayonara (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 10, 2003

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Comments: As a member of the first ascent party (Brett Ruckman and I put up this route several days before I moved to the Bay Area.....hence the name), let me shed some light on the route description.

First off, I thought the start was near impossible (more like 5.11+), moving up and right to some adequate holds. In fact, when I first spotted the route and convinced Brett to do it with me, I had the easier, alternate, start in mind. Oh well, things happen. Anyway, the easier start goes out a finger/ha... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003

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Comments: In the months of May and June, Dale Haas and I added 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links to the cold shuts on Simplexity, the route right of Simplexity, The Hot Zone, The Steeple, Monastic Groove, Southern Hospitality, Pandora's Pebble Pinching Palace, and Gravestones. We also removed a few smash(lap) links in the process.

This work is being carried out as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They would appreciate your suppor... more >>


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