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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 946
Total Points: 676
Last Year: 133
Last 30 Days: 49
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 356 | Routes 31 | Areas 8 | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 93 | Stars 35 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 12, 2006

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Comments: They don't call it Delicate Arch for nothing. The rock in Arches National Monument is really, really soft. This isn't Yosemite granite. Even the act of free soloing and rappelling off will undoubtedly leave some form of impact or trace of an ascent. Note that Dean also used white chalk, which doesn't always wash off in the next rainstorm.

So, given the very soft nature of this particular formation, the argument that free soling leaves no trace does not really apply here. What did Dean do? ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Wet Kiss (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: I don't place a piece either. I was trying to point out that, given the first comment, that this is not a bolted crack. The first ascentionists allow the leader to place more protection if they feel they need it and didn't just put in a convenience bolt.

Bruce


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Wet Kiss (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: The route follows a crack that only takes protection in the one place mentioned in the route description. If you don't place a piece and rely on only the bolts you are risking a serious whipper if you fall.
This is not a bolted crack.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Jungle of Stone (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 31, 2005

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Comments: At the crux bulge there is a big flake about 2 feet right of the main crack. If you use this flake for your right hand, rather than jamming both hands in the crack, you can stem right past the bulge at about 5.8 (maybe even 5.7+) because you can make better use of the good left foot holds in the crack which you can't seem to use properly if you are straight in jamming the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Sayonara (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: You can approach this climb from the traditional start of the Third Flatiron (East Bench). The start of Sayonara is basically straight across from the East Bench but, the easiest way to get there is to climb down about 50 feet and then across the slab and through and obvious break in a long right facing dihedral. Climb back up and left to the left edge of the Third Flatiron and proceed up to the flake with the new bolt anchor just to left of the flake. All in all, about 200-250 feet of climbi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Sayonara (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen and I replaced the tat webbing at the anchor with two 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts and added quick links and chain for rappel.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : On Ballet (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen, Dale Haas and I replaced the slings on the rappel off the right side of the walk-off ledge with quick links and links of chain.

Hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Mile High Comic Crack (5.12a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen, Dale Haas, and I removed all the tat at the anchor on top of this climb. I drilled a new 3/8" Rawl SS bolt and added chains and links to work with the existing pin and bolt swaged cable anchor.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Deck Chairs on the Titanic (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Dale Haas and I removed the horribly worn quick links at the anchor and replaced them with new quick links and links of chain to equalize for rappel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head : East Face/Queen Anne's Head (5.4)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: We went up on this climb intending to replace the bolt that Rossiter's guidebook says you belay at for the top of the third pitch. There was no bolt anywhere near the southern end of the small overhang(as described in Rossiter's guide). There is a good thread for the main belay anchor at the left edge of the bottom of the small overhang, you can place a #1 and #3 Camalot to back it up.

My partner followed the 3rd pitch and I sent him all over that slab looking for the bolt and cou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: Dale Haas and I replaced the mounds of tat used for the rappel anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8"x3.5" stainless steel(SS) Rawl 5-piece bolts. We added quick links and chain for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Heart of the Narrows (5.12c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 13, 2005

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Comments: The belay at the top of the first pitch consisted of one 3/8" Rawl five-piece bolt and two old, 1/4" bolts. Ron Olsen and I removed the two 1/4" bolts and added a 3/8" SS Rawl five piece bolt. We added quick links and chains to replace the slings for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Super Squeeze (5.10d)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 13, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen and I replaced the 1/4" bolt at the belay. Unfortunately, not only was the existing bolt a mere 1" deep in the rock, it was also in a hollow flake. We searched high and low for a spot to place the new bolt that was good rock and finally decided up and left. The new bolt is a 3/8" SS Rawl five-piece bolt.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: About Kor's original, 1963 belay bolt, after having replaced over 300 bolts, I can say that this bolt was a ticking time bomb.

First off, as you can see from the photo with a dime added for scale, the 1/4" bolt was less than 1" (about 7/8" to be more precise) into the rock.

Secondly, this is a compression bolt which uses the compression of two side of the shaft to hold it into the hole (pullout strength). Unfortunately, Flatirons sandstone is pretty soft and a bolt such as this does not compr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: In late September, I applied to the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) for a permit to replace the 1/4" belay bolt on Rogue's Arete. The critical question was whether to replace just the single bolt or to replace that one bolt and add a second to ensure a safe belay.

The OSMP contacted the Flatiron Climbing Council's(FCC) Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) which offered an array of points to consider and an opinion to help answer to the question. Terry Murphy, the FHRC c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: I replaced the anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8" x 3.5" Stainless Steel Rawl 5-piece bolts and added quick links and chains for rappel. Note, that you can hit the ground with a 70m rope but a 60m or less will require some downclimbing. There is a second rappel anchor, slings around a tree, on the east side of the ridge crest. If you are going to use this second anchor, make sure you angle a bit to the south when rappelling from the top.

The old anchor consisted of two, old, 15-foot lin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I went up on this climb looking to replace the bolt. However, the bolt was poorly placed in a hole in the rock and we could not place a new bolt directly in the old hole. When we looked for places to move the new bolt it was always close to bomber gear. Hence, we decided not to replace the bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Toponas (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I replaced the 1/4" Rawl protection bolt on this climb with a 3/8" x 3.5" SS Rawl bolt.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I replaced the two, old, 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts as the anchor for this rock with 3/8" SS Rawl bolts and added quick links and chain for rappel.

This hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Elephantiasis (5.10 X)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 30, 2005

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Comments: I replaced the 1/4" Rawl buttonhead compression bolt on the second pitch with a 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolt.

The materials for this work were provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Archer McLanahan (5.10)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Tony Bubb and I replaced the two bolts (one 1/4" rawl split shaft, one 3/8" star dryvin) on this pitch with 3/8" stainless steel (SS) Rawl five piece bolts. And yes, the 1/4 rawl was especially manky!

The American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the materials used in this project. They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 13, 2005

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Comments: On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support.

Bruce

ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without eithe... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: With respect to the ongoing discussion about the thin crack route....

Was the first ascent of this route ever recorded anywhere? Was there a reasonable expectation that other climbers would know about this route? I don't like people adding gear to existing routes, but, if nobody knew the crack had been climbed, then what do you expect. And, having climbed the route just once (or even a few times) doesn't necessarily leave enough of a trace of past visits.

Bruce


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