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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 943
Total Points: 672
Last Year: 136
Last 30 Days: 40
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 351 | Routes 31 | Areas 8 | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 167 | Posts 92 | Stars 35 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the old, 1/4" bolt on Smoother with two 3/8"x3.5" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts. The extra bolt was added with permission from the first ascent party and a permit stating such was approved by the OSMP. Note that the two, well-camouflaged bolts are located about 5-6 feet left of Crescent Crack about 110-120 feet off the ground. The bolts were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org); the hangers were provided by Larry Arthur at Mountain Tools (www.... more >>


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: I would support putting up a sign at the entrance to Eldorado stating:

Entering Eldorado Canyon State Park, laws of gravity strictly enforced!

Bruce


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: When I look at the root cause of what is happening on Washington Irving, one thing that stands out is that the anchor on top of the climb is a "rappel" anchor and not a "belay" anchor. The bolts are placed far out on the wall so that it would be very uncomfortable to set up a belay off that anchor and bring your partner up. Hence, the anchor's position almost forces climbers to lower unless they want to use their own gear to set up a more comfortable belay anchor and then bring their partner(s... more >>


Location: CO : Benefit for Steve Dieckhoff
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: I second the recommendation for health insurance. You can get "catastrophic" coverage which has high deductibles and only covers you if something really bad happens for very reasonable rates that even climbers can afford. That's what I have.

Best of luck Steve. We are all pulling for you!


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 5, 2007

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Comments: One question that only CCH, and not a certified metallurgist, can answer is whether the cable was fully inserted into the socket prior to brazing. I sent an E-mail to CCH asking that they measure the cable, post-failure, to see how that compares to the specification for cable length prior to brazing.

Bruce


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Please forgive me if I am misinterpreting what I have read on this topic, but I don't think it is fair to blame Mountain Project and this forum for the Wondervu area becoming more popular. Clearly, the initial route developers tried to keep the area secret, but somebody told somebody who wasn't part of the plan and now the word is out.

In some respects, I think the Mountain Project forum can be a positive aspect of the development of Wondervu. The forum and resulting traffic will force issues... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 14, 2006

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Comments: I have an application submitted with the OSMP but we are still discussing a few details. If this really is the only place to get any protection as described by George Bell in his route description then that makes it a de-facto belay and it doesn't make sense to add just a single bolt.

I have been talking to Jim Erickson on his ideas about what he would like done with the route. On the first ascent, he doesn't remember belaying at the bolt, but he does remember that he and Jim Walsh just kind ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2006

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Comments: The original route, led by both Ron and me, had two bolt placements. Ron later added two more bolts and chose the name of the route.

Bruce


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11-)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 12, 2006

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Comments: Maybe the locals can add a bit of reality here, but one reason for the original 5.10+ rating may be that there was a small tree at the first crux section (thin twin cracks) which probably made these moves easier (and is the reason the tree is no longer there!!!).

Bruce


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 2, 2006

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Comments: Ken Cangi writes:

"One of the major problems, as I have observed it, is that climbers can get so entrenched in our own personal activities that we sometimes neglect to periodically step back and take note of how our actions are affecting others....."

That's a very good description of Dean Potter!

Ken also writes:

"If these events donít teach us to curb our selfishness, then I fear for the future of this sport."

Good advice for publicity stunts like Dean Potter's climb.

Bruce


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 1, 2006

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Comments: First off, I would encourage everyone who has any interest in the Delicate Arch ascent to read the article on Outside Online. It is quite good and presents a lot of information from all sides, including Patagonia.

For me, the most important item in the article was documented photo evidence that Dean Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch left multiple grooves in the arch. The pictures are clear that there are grooves in the arch.

Now, some may argue that there is no way to prove that Dean left thos... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: Dean Potter slacklined on the Three Gossips over a month ago and the NPS had to modify their regs to outlaw it. Next, Dean climbed Delicate Arch and the NPS had to modify their regs to make it clear that it was illegal.

I can clearly see a scenario where the NPS realizes after these two incidents that all their regulations in the Arches are either poorly written and/or out of date and they can't wait for somebody to skate through the next loophole. It is a fact that the NPS was flooded with a... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 24, 2006

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Comments: There are two threads on this subject on mountainproject.com happening simultaneously. Here is something I posted on the other thread from Jimmie Dunn which was excerpeted from Supertopo.com:


This is for those climbers who accept Dean Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch. I've been fortunate enough to have climbed and hiked in the canyon country for 37 years and I still do. Dean is a very good friend of mine. We have climbed some good routes together and even climbed in Arches together. I conside... more >>


Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2006

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Comments: Here are Jimmie Dunn's comments, excerpted from SuperTopo.com:

This is for those climbers who accept Dean Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch. I've been fortunate enough to have climbed and hiked in the canyon country for 37 years and I still do. Dean is a very good friend of mine. We have climbed some good routes together and even climbed in Arches together. I consider him a high quality person and a rad climber and he is for nature. Dean's ascent of Delicate Arch may not have been against the la... more >>


Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: The Park Superintendent specifically states that the regs were changed because of Dean Potter's actions and my logic doesn't make sense. Hmmm.

Again from piquaclimber:

"I just spoke with Laura Joss. She confirmed that as of May 9, no new fixed anchors are allowed in the park. She said that there will be a period of time for public input about the new regulations but as of now... no new anchors. She also said that this has promoted [prompted] the NPS to overhaul/clarify their regulations in th... more >>


Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: Ken,

here are some other comment from the same SuperTopo thread:

From plquaclimber:

I just spoke with Laura Joss. She confirmed that as of May 9, no new fixed anchors are allowed in the park. She said that there will be a period of time for public input about the new regulations but as of now... no new anchors. She also said that this has promoted [prompted] the NPS to overhaul/clarify their regulations in the next year. She was happy to hear that most climbers are not happy with Dean's antic... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 18, 2006

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Comments: I did this route years ago using a topo from Rock and Ice circa 1986. We climbed two pitches above the top of the "now standard" 4th pitch (5.9 bolted face). There was a fixed anchor on top of the 2nd pitch above the 5.9 face pitch so we rapped down on that with double 50m ropes and ended up about 40 feet above the anchor on top of the 5.9 face pitch. We put in an anchor and my partner downclimbed the 40 feet putting in a piece of pro every 5-10 feet. I then took out our anchor and downclimb... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs : Alley Cat Street (5.10a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 18, 2006

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Comments: On 5/16/2006, Ron Olsen and I replaced the five protection bolts and two anchor bolts with stainless steel (SS) 3/8" Rawl bolts and upgraded the old SMC hangers with Petzl Couers. This route lies in a often-wet water streak so the upgrade seemed appropriate. We also added rings for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: Ken Cangi writes:

"How many members of the general public have you discussed this with, because my experience so far has been that most of the dissent has been expressed in climbing forums like this, by people who aren't even that close to the actual players and/or facts."
-----------
I was talking about this with one of the editors at Outside Magazine and he told me that they have been getting scores of letters to the editor about Potter's climb and they haven't even run a story on it yet!

Br... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 13, 2006

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Comments: Ken,

can you please post pointers to the news media where the NPS superintendent admitted that Delicate Arch is not specifically closed to climbing.

Here is the pre-ascent and post-ascent wording of the of NPS regulations, frankly, I don't see how these two really differ that much and how Dean's ascent of Delicate Arch could be considered legal pre-ascent and now illegal post ascent.

Pre-ascent:

"Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps@SEMI... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 13, 2006

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Comments: Yeah, what Phil B. says. Climbers have been doing clandestine ascents of forbidden formations for a long, long time with the only record of such feats being word of mouth. For example, people have been climbing the towers on the Golden Gate Bridge for over 40 years (its a bit more difficult now after 911). But, nobody ever dragged a film crew and reporter from a newspaper along to publicize their ascent.

It would be interesting to know Potter's motivation for publicizing his ascent. I reall... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 12, 2006

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Comments: They don't call it Delicate Arch for nothing. The rock in Arches National Monument is really, really soft. This isn't Yosemite granite. Even the act of free soloing and rappelling off will undoubtedly leave some form of impact or trace of an ascent. Note that Dean also used white chalk, which doesn't always wash off in the next rainstorm.

So, given the very soft nature of this particular formation, the argument that free soling leaves no trace does not really apply here. What did Dean do? ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Wet Kiss (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: I don't place a piece either. I was trying to point out that, given the first comment, that this is not a bolted crack. The first ascentionists allow the leader to place more protection if they feel they need it and didn't just put in a convenience bolt.

Bruce


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Wet Kiss (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 5, 2006

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Comments: The route follows a crack that only takes protection in the one place mentioned in the route description. If you don't place a piece and rely on only the bolts you are risking a serious whipper if you fall.
This is not a bolted crack.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Jungle of Stone (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 31, 2005

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Comments: At the crux bulge there is a big flake about 2 feet right of the main crack. If you use this flake for your right hand, rather than jamming both hands in the crack, you can stem right past the bulge at about 5.8 (maybe even 5.7+) because you can make better use of the good left foot holds in the crack which you can't seem to use properly if you are straight in jamming the crack.


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