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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 1,039
Total Points: 565
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 5
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Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (297) | Routes (25) | Areas (8) | Photos (11) | Comments (140) | Posts (81) | Stars (29) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : On Ballet (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen, Dale Haas and I replaced the slings on the rappel off the right side of the walk-off ledge with quick links and links of chain.

Hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Mile High Comic Crack (5.12a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen, Dale Haas, and I removed all the tat at the anchor on top of this climb. I drilled a new 3/8" Rawl SS bolt and added chains and links to work with the existing pin and bolt swaged cable anchor.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Deck Chairs on the Titanic (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Dale Haas and I removed the horribly worn quick links at the anchor and replaced them with new quick links and links of chain to equalize for rappel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head : East Face/Queen Anne's Head (5.4)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: We went up on this climb intending to replace the bolt that Rossiter's guidebook says you belay at for the top of the third pitch. There was no bolt anywhere near the southern end of the small overhang(as described in Rossiter's guide). There is a good thread for the main belay anchor at the left edge of the bottom of the small overhang, you can place a #1 and #3 Camalot to back it up.

My partner followed the 3rd pitch and I sent him all over that slab looking for the bolt and cou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: Dale Haas and I replaced the mounds of tat used for the rappel anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8"x3.5" stainless steel(SS) Rawl 5-piece bolts. We added quick links and chain for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Heart of the Narrows (5.12c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 13, 2005

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Comments: The belay at the top of the first pitch consisted of one 3/8" Rawl five-piece bolt and two old, 1/4" bolts. Ron Olsen and I removed the two 1/4" bolts and added a 3/8" SS Rawl five piece bolt. We added quick links and chains to replace the slings for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Super Squeeze (5.10d)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 13, 2005

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Comments: Ron Olsen and I replaced the 1/4" bolt at the belay. Unfortunately, not only was the existing bolt a mere 1" deep in the rock, it was also in a hollow flake. We searched high and low for a spot to place the new bolt that was good rock and finally decided up and left. The new bolt is a 3/8" SS Rawl five-piece bolt.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2005

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Comments: About Kor's original, 1963 belay bolt, after having replaced over 300 bolts, I can say that this bolt was a ticking time bomb.

First off, as you can see from the photo with a dime added for scale, the 1/4" bolt was less than 1" (about 7/8" to be more precise) into the rock.

Secondly, this is a compression bolt which uses the compression of two side of the shaft to hold it into the hole (pullout strength). Unfortunately, Flatirons sandstone is pretty soft and a bolt such as this does not compr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Rogue's Arete (5.10a R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: In late September, I applied to the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) for a permit to replace the 1/4" belay bolt on Rogue's Arete. The critical question was whether to replace just the single bolt or to replace that one bolt and add a second to ensure a safe belay.

The OSMP contacted the Flatiron Climbing Council's(FCC) Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC) which offered an array of points to consider and an opinion to help answer to the question. Terry Murphy, the FHRC c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: I replaced the anchor on top of this rock with two 3/8" x 3.5" Stainless Steel Rawl 5-piece bolts and added quick links and chains for rappel. Note, that you can hit the ground with a 70m rope but a 60m or less will require some downclimbing. There is a second rappel anchor, slings around a tree, on the east side of the ridge crest. If you are going to use this second anchor, make sure you angle a bit to the south when rappelling from the top.

The old anchor consisted of two, old, 15-foot lin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I went up on this climb looking to replace the bolt. However, the bolt was poorly placed in a hole in the rock and we could not place a new bolt directly in the old hole. When we looked for places to move the new bolt it was always close to bomber gear. Hence, we decided not to replace the bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Toponas (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I replaced the 1/4" Rawl protection bolt on this climb with a 3/8" x 3.5" SS Rawl bolt.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Mike Munger and I replaced the two, old, 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts as the anchor for this rock with 3/8" SS Rawl bolts and added quick links and chain for rappel.

This hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Elephantiasis (5.10 X)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 30, 2005

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Comments: I replaced the 1/4" Rawl buttonhead compression bolt on the second pitch with a 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolt.

The materials for this work were provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Archer McLanahan (5.10)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Tony Bubb and I replaced the two bolts (one 1/4" rawl split shaft, one 3/8" star dryvin) on this pitch with 3/8" stainless steel (SS) Rawl five piece bolts. And yes, the 1/4 rawl was especially manky!

The American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the materials used in this project. They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005

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Comments: The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 13, 2005

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Comments: On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support.

Bruce

ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without eithe... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: With respect to the ongoing discussion about the thin crack route....

Was the first ascent of this route ever recorded anywhere? Was there a reasonable expectation that other climbers would know about this route? I don't like people adding gear to existing routes, but, if nobody knew the crack had been climbed, then what do you expect. And, having climbed the route just once (or even a few times) doesn't necessarily leave enough of a trace of past visits.

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 31, 2004

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Comments: On 10/28/2004, Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quicklinks and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 27, 2004

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Comments: On 10/27/2004 Will Clopton and I replaced the two aging 1/4" bolts and 20 lbs of rotting slings and cordelettes on top of the Backporch with two 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl bolts. We added 3/8" quick links for rappelling. The new bolts are located on the west face of the summit block about five feet from the location of the original bolts. Though there is ample natural protection for a belay on top, the bolts can also be clipped for the belay.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing A... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 27, 2004

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Comments: On 10/27/2004 Will Clopton and I replaced the 1/4" bolt on top of Der Zerkle with a 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl. We added links for rappel. A second 5-piece Rawl bolt with Fixe Ring was already in place. There are now two bolts on top for the rappel.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) and the Anchor Replacement Initiative (www.climbing.com/ari).


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Unknown (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2004

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Comments: On 6/07/04 Ron Olsen and I upgraded the anchor on top of the 1st pitch. We added a hanger to an already existing 3/8" bolt stud and then added quick links and a couple of links of 3/8" chain to the anchor to facilitate a rappel.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA).Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org, they appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2004

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Comments: In June 2004 Ron Olsen and I performed the following anchor upgrades.

-added quick links to top of first pitch of Comanche Warrior on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to anchor on Alley Cat Street-replaced first bolt (in original hole) of Cornered on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to the anchor of Upside the Cranium on the Monkey Skull-added quick links to anchor of the arete route left of Sunshine Dihedral on the Monkey Skulk

This work was supported by ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: On 6/23/04 Dal Haas and I performed the following anchor upgrades on this crag.

-added 4 quick links to the top anchor of Deuces Wild-reversed the quick link anchor (5/16" into bolt, 3/8" to rope) on Cracker Jack-replaced the smash (lap) links with quick links on Ace in the Hole-replaced the smash links with quick links on 5th of July-replaced the smash links with quick links on Stone Cold Moderate-replaced the smash links and quick links with new quick links and rappel rings on Poker Face

Thi... more >>


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