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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 993
Total Points: 637
Last Year: 123
Last 30 Days: 43
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 344 | Routes 27 | Areas 8 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 167 | Posts 92 | Stars 31 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Here's my contribution to "where did the bolts come from discussion." My memory is a bit fuzzy, but I seem to remember a debate in the late '80s/early '90s about a route going in that went straight up from the start of Rosy Crucifixion. The FA party placed a bolt that was also clippable from the start of Rosy.

I seem to remember Rob Candelaria being involved in the new route and the name was tentatively called 'Plastic Jesus', but in doing a bit of research, it appears that Plastic Jesus is a... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: Jay,

Sometimes you can retighten them, sometimes not. My guess is that the bolt has been fallen on sufficient enough times that the hole was now bad. Good call on the replacement.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: Pretty simple fix for that bad looking bolt. Take a wrench and hammer up there and loosen the nut 1 or 2 turns then tap the bolt back flush with the rock and re-tighten the nut. Be careful when you re-tighten the nut that you don't apply too much torque.

You might also want to re-position the hanger so that it receives minimal downward torque in a fall.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face/Hong (5.11c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: I think you can do the crux at the top of pitch 2 two different ways. I have seen people exit the actual crack to the right just before the top as per the route description above. I stemmed the crack all the way to the top of the pillar. That felt about 5.12- to me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Tiberone (5.10c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: I believe the name of this climb should be 'Tiburon' which means 'shark' in Spanish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: You gotta love it. People saying that doing a climb on TR is the same difficulty as leading it. Pretty soon people are going to start claiming an ascent just because they looked at a particular route.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Merit Based Pay (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: This route is already in the database as "Little Flatiron Right". The route was added before the new South Saint Vrain guidebook was out and the actual name of the route was known.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : The Mushroom (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: As others have pointed out, this route has cleaned up nicely and is most likely a two-star route.

Someone replaced the slings on the top of pitch 1 with a two-bolt anchor. Unfortunately, they positioned the bolts incorrectly (you want to use a vertical orientation, not a horizontal orientation, when placing an anchor that is perpendicular to the direction of the rappel). As configured now, almost all the force from the rappel is loaded onto only one of the bolts.

Also, it would have been nice... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Hollow Man (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: On September 26, 2010 Dale Haas and I upgraded the two anchors on this climb. At the anchor at the top of pitch 1, we removed the smash links and 1/4" chain, replacing them with quicklinks and 3/8" chain which we equalized. At the anchor on top of pitch 2, we removed the smash links and 1/4" chain, replacing them with quick links and 3/8" chain which we equalized.

This work was funded by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

Bruce

P.S. ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Burley Dudes (5.11d R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: I can't vouch for the grade of this route once the bolts were put in, but when we did it as a top-rope, following a very direct line to the anchor, it definitely felt 5.11+. I did Raccoon Soup on Rincon the next day and the grade felt very similar. YMMV.

Bruce


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Way Jingus (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Circ Toepel and I put this route up as a top rope in summer 1988.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Burley Dudes (5.11d R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Circ Toepel and I put up this route as a top rope in summer 1988.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: In regards to Stefan's comments on the rebolting of this route: In reading his description, it appears that some non-stainless hardware (3" x 3/8" Rawl 5-piece bolts are plated and not stainless) was used. I hope I am mistaken, but if not, there are several organizations which promote rebolting (ASCA, ARI, etc.) which provide stainless hardware free of charge. It doesn't make sense to me in light of all the time and trouble to do rebolting to use non-stainless hardware.

Also, if I am not mistak... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: As an update, that bolt (a 1/4" Rawl drive) was replaced several years ago.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: I love pitch 3, but if you are not into doing 10+ tips, you can head around to the left from the tree at the start of the pitch and do a 5.9 lieback as an alternative finish.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: Everybody's hands are a bit different so saying "hand-sized" pro is a bit ambiguous. I would recommend taking a few extra #3 Camalots (or similar sized pro in your favorite SLCD) for the crack on pitch 2. Also, there are some very conveniently placed scoops on the right wall about every 20-25 feet on that pitch which afford nice stem rests.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Today, my partner Dale and I, the original FA party, added a bolt on the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are now nine (9) bolts on the route. We also did a bunch of cleaning in the gully to the right of the climbing line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Thunderworld (5.11)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: Just as a bit of FA history, Tom Ballard and I climbed the overhanging flake and then exited left at the top in spring 1987. I put the route as a FA in the book at the Boulder Mountaineer only to have Dan Hare call and tell me that he had done the flake as well two years previously and even then he didn't feel like he had done a FA. Dan agreed that the flake was about 5.10+.

So, it appears that Steve and Gray added a direct finish to an already established route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Clearly, with the ascents on the Maiden and steep/overhanging faces of the Third Flatiron, high angle rock climbing in the Boulder area was alive and well in the late '40s and early '50s. Yes, we have the Bastille and Redguard from the mid-'50s, but if there was high quality climbing going on in the Flatirons in the late '40s did anything get done in Eldorado which has been lost over time?

Bruce


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: When we, the FA party, envisioned this route and bolted it, the line we climbed went straight up past the first two bolts then worked over to the arete on the left and climbed straight up that past three bolts then up the headwall above past three more bolts to the anchor. We spent two days cleaning the loose rock and lichen, bushes, etc. from this line.

There is a gully to the right of the arete which contains some loose rock, bushes, etc. which is off the climbing line we bolted. Obviously, ... more >>


Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 17, 2008

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Comments: If the Kor slide show is really and truly a benefit for Layton's medical expenses then those promoting the show should offer as many shows or as large a venue as possible so that the maximum amount of $$$$ can be collected to help the cause.

This shouldn't be a case of 'I got tickets and you didn't'. It should be 'we raised as much money as possible to help a truly legendary climber in his time of need.'

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 31, 2008

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Comments: You can do a variation at the top of the climb. Rather than traverse right at the pin, continue up the ever thinning crack to the anchor. Not much protection for the leader. On a TR it felt about 5.11b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Pup (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: The two anchor bolts at the top of this route were poorly placed, one bolt being about a foot higher, but also six inches to the left of the other bolt. With several quick links and links of 3/8" chain I was able to create a situation where both bolts are both about equally loaded. Now, if one bolt fails, the other should not be shock loaded.

The welded cold shut on the lower bolt is definitely showing signs of wear, hopefully this was because of the improper placement of the bolts and not be... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Hubris (5.6 R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: On 10/18/07, Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two belay bolts on this route with 3/8"x3.5" stainless steel Rawl bolts and Fixe ring hangers. Ron Olsen donated the hangers (thanks Ron!) and the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the bolts. BTW, it was so difficult to remove the original bolts (3/8" Star Dryvins) that in the process, while clenching my teeth in the effort, I (Bruce) broke a crown on one of my teeth!

With the new bolts, and nice belay ledge, this route should probab... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two bolt anchor shared by Climb to Safety, Death Tongue, Flash Flood and Cling to Safety with 3/8" stainless steel Rawl bolts. We added quick links and chains for rappel. The bolts, hangers and quick links were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


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