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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 946
Total Points: 676
Last Year: 133
Last 30 Days: 49
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 356 | Routes 31 | Areas 8 | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 93 | Stars 35 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Inner Peace (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: On September 23, 2012, Dale Haas and I added a second bolt (3/8" x 2.25" SS 5-piece Rawl) and quicklinks with chain to the single bolt anchor. You can now rap 95' back to the start of the route without having to traverse over to the anchors on Wes Bound.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : White Lie (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: There is a nice little 20-25 foot runout on 5.8 climbing between the 5th and 6th bolts. Also, you could deck from pretty high up, on albeit pretty easy terrain, between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. SuperTopo calls this route "R" and I would agree.

You need gear for the belay at the top. I used a .5, .75 and #1 Camalot. Scramble over and rap from the tree on top of Scandalous Summer.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Scandalous Summer (5.6)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: There are seven bolts on this climb, not five. And,for some reason they FA party didn't use the washer which comes with Rawl "5-piece" bolts to help distribute the load between the bolt head and the hanger. Lastly, I believe the 3rd(or was it the 4th) bolt has the metal sleeve partly protruding and smashed flat to the rock. Not a very good bolting job, IMHO.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi , Fanis and Contur... : ... : Spigolo Sud aka the South R... (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: The 5.7 last pitch is quite polished and is actually a variation to the original route and can be bypassed to the right. If that is done, the route is probably only about 5.3-5.5. Not much pro on the climb, but it is easy enough that you don't really need it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Cedar Park Slab : Dags in Beanland (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: As for protection on the route, I had a set of Aliens and Camalots up to a #2 (gold). There looks to be a newer bolt added to the top of the second pitch which now has six and not five bolts. The trick for finding the correct water streak for pitch #4 is to look for the black water streak just to the right of the twisted juniper. Don't take the white, light-colored, streak on the left.

The key to nailing the descent is to avoid the temptation to follow the easy slopes down and ea... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Replaced the missing hanger and bolt on this route today. As a bit of history this particular bolt, the sixth on the route, was a spinner and a climber felt it was safer to remove the nut, washer and hanger rather than to hand tighten the nut.

Personally, I would disagree with this decision. It seems to me to be safer to hand tighten the nut and then either come back with the appropriate wrench to properly tighten it or tell someone who is more qualified about the problem so they can properly... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, but did they do the sit start?


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: There is a variation to the first pitch which starts just right of the route. Climb an unprotected lieback and surmount an overhang (5.10- poorly protected) and then follow a short, very thin crack(5.11 with small Aliens/TCU's) up and then left to the dihedral midway up the first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: Here's my contribution to "where did the bolts come from discussion." My memory is a bit fuzzy, but I seem to remember a debate in the late '80s/early '90s about a route going in that went straight up from the start of Rosy Crucifixion. The FA party placed a bolt that was also clippable from the start of Rosy.

I seem to remember Rob Candelaria being involved in the new route and the name was tentatively called 'Plastic Jesus', but in doing a bit of research, it appears that Plastic Jesus is a... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: Jay,

Sometimes you can retighten them, sometimes not. My guess is that the bolt has been fallen on sufficient enough times that the hole was now bad. Good call on the replacement.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 12, 2012

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Comments: Pretty simple fix for that bad looking bolt. Take a wrench and hammer up there and loosen the nut 1 or 2 turns then tap the bolt back flush with the rock and re-tighten the nut. Be careful when you re-tighten the nut that you don't apply too much torque.

You might also want to re-position the hanger so that it receives minimal downward torque in a fall.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face/Hong (5.11c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: I think you can do the crux at the top of pitch 2 two different ways. I have seen people exit the actual crack to the right just before the top as per the route description above. I stemmed the crack all the way to the top of the pillar. That felt about 5.12- to me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Tiberone (5.10c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: I believe the name of this climb should be 'Tiburon' which means 'shark' in Spanish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: You gotta love it. People saying that doing a climb on TR is the same difficulty as leading it. Pretty soon people are going to start claiming an ascent just because they looked at a particular route.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Merit Based Pay (5.7)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: This route is already in the database as "Little Flatiron Right". The route was added before the new South Saint Vrain guidebook was out and the actual name of the route was known.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : The Mushroom (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 6, 2010

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Comments: As others have pointed out, this route has cleaned up nicely and is most likely a two-star route.

Someone replaced the slings on the top of pitch 1 with a two-bolt anchor. Unfortunately, they positioned the bolts incorrectly (you want to use a vertical orientation, not a horizontal orientation, when placing an anchor that is perpendicular to the direction of the rappel). As configured now, almost all the force from the rappel is loaded onto only one of the bolts.

Also, it would have been nice... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Hollow Man (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: On September 26, 2010 Dale Haas and I upgraded the two anchors on this climb. At the anchor at the top of pitch 1, we removed the smash links and 1/4" chain, replacing them with quicklinks and 3/8" chain which we equalized. At the anchor on top of pitch 2, we removed the smash links and 1/4" chain, replacing them with quick links and 3/8" chain which we equalized.

This work was funded by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

Bruce

P.S. ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Burley Dudes (5.11d R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: I can't vouch for the grade of this route once the bolts were put in, but when we did it as a top-rope, following a very direct line to the anchor, it definitely felt 5.11+. I did Raccoon Soup on Rincon the next day and the grade felt very similar. YMMV.

Bruce


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Way Jingus (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Circ Toepel and I put this route up as a top rope in summer 1988.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Burley Dudes (5.11d R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Circ Toepel and I put up this route as a top rope in summer 1988.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: In regards to Stefan's comments on the rebolting of this route: In reading his description, it appears that some non-stainless hardware (3" x 3/8" Rawl 5-piece bolts are plated and not stainless) was used. I hope I am mistaken, but if not, there are several organizations which promote rebolting (ASCA, ARI, etc.) which provide stainless hardware free of charge. It doesn't make sense to me in light of all the time and trouble to do rebolting to use non-stainless hardware.

Also, if I am not mistak... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: As an update, that bolt (a 1/4" Rawl drive) was replaced several years ago.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: I love pitch 3, but if you are not into doing 10+ tips, you can head around to the left from the tree at the start of the pitch and do a 5.9 lieback as an alternative finish.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: Everybody's hands are a bit different so saying "hand-sized" pro is a bit ambiguous. I would recommend taking a few extra #3 Camalots (or similar sized pro in your favorite SLCD) for the crack on pitch 2. Also, there are some very conveniently placed scoops on the right wall about every 20-25 feet on that pitch which afford nice stem rests.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Today, my partner Dale and I, the original FA party, added a bolt on the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are now nine (9) bolts on the route. We also did a bunch of cleaning in the gully to the right of the climbing line.


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