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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top.
Bruce
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Night Vision (5.10b PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support.
Bruce
ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without eithe... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Swift Rock
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: With respect to the ongoing discussion about the thin crack route....
Was the first ascent of this route ever recorded anywhere? Was there a reasonable expectation that other climbers would know about this route? I don't like people adding gear to existing routes, but, if nobody knew the crack had been climbed, then what do you expect. And, having climbed the route just once (or even a few times) doesn't necessarily leave enough of a trace of past visits.
Bruce
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 10/28/2004 Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quick links and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 10/27/2004 Will Clopton and I replaced the two aging 1/4" bolts and 20 lbs of rotting slings and cordelettes on top of the Backporch with two 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl bolts. We added 3/8" quick links for rappelling. The new bolts are located on the west face of the summit block about five feet from the location of the original bolts. Though there is ample natural protection for a belay on top, the bolts can also be clipped for the belay.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing A... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 10/27/2004 Will Clopton and I replaced the 1/4" bolt on top of Der Zerkle with a 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl. We added links for rappel. A second 5-piece Rawl bolt with Fixe Ring was already in place. There are now two bolts on top for the rappel.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) and the Anchor Replacement Initiative (www.climbing.com/ari).
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Unknown (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 6/07/04 Ron Olsen and I upgraded the anchor on top of the 1st pitch. We added a hanger to an already existing 3/8" bolt stud and then added quick links and a couple of links of 3/8" chain to the anchor to facilitate a rappel.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA).Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org, they appreciate your support.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 30, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: In June 2004 Ron Olsen and I performed the following anchor upgrades.
-added quick links to top of first pitch of Comanche Warrior on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to anchor on Alley Cat Street-replaced first bolt (in original hole) of Cornered on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to the anchor of Upside the Cranium on the Monkey Skull-added quick links to anchor of the arete route left of Sunshine Dihedral on the Monkey Skulk
This work was supported by ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 6/23/04 Dal Haas and I performed the following anchor upgrades on this crag.
-added 4 quick links to the top anchor of Deuces Wild-reversed the quick link anchor (5/16" into bolt, 3/8" to rope) on Cracker Jack-replaced the smash (lap) links with quick links on Ace in the Hole-replaced the smash links with quick links on 5th of July-replaced the smash links with quick links on Stone Cold Moderate-replaced the smash links and quick links with new quick links and rappel rings on Poker Face
Thi... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: As someone who does a bit of rebolting work with the ASCA I would just like to say that Greg, Chris, etc. run a very ethical organization. I can tell you first hand that people like Greg, who probably replaces 100-200 bolts, or more, per year, is doing this gratis. Luckily his girlfriend has a truck since his truck has had a blown head gasket for a long time.
And, not to downplay the efforts made in rebolting single pitch routes, the ASCA has been responsible for rebolting many multi-pitch ro... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Leisure Time Arete (5.11a)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a new route in Eldorado Canyon up on Rincon Wall. At present, the route is done as a toprope as bolts would be needed to protect it on lead. Sometime in the future, this route may be submitted to the Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Review Committee for consideration. Your comments on the route are greatly appreciated.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In response to the comments about the new anchor....
3/8" bolts are absolutely fine for belay/rappel anchors. They have a pull-out strength of over 5000 pounds if properly installed and are not subject to the dynamic loading of a protection bolt.
We left the original bolts in place because some people still belay from the top of a climb, rather than lowering off, and the existing bolts are fine for that. We did not just pull the existing bolts and re-drill because the bolts were too far back... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dale Haas and I, with approval from the first acent party, fixed up the anchor on top of this route. We left the original three anchor bolts in place and added two 3/8" Rawl 5-piece (Torque) bolts at the crest of the top of the climb. We addedtwo 3/8" quick links to each bolt for rappelling and lowering.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).Look them up at www.safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support.
A couple of notes on the other bolts on the clim... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dale Haas and I fixed up the first anchor on pitch #1 (about 60' up). We replaced the old Leeper-style hanger on the left bolt with a Fixe 4mm Stainless Steel hanger. Also, we removed the smash links and assorted hardware from bothbolts and installed two 3/8" quick links on each bolt.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Check them out at www.safeclimbing.org. They would appreciate your support.
By the way, smash links, also known as lap links, ar... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Sayonara (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: As a member of the first ascent party (Brett Ruckman and I put up this route several days before I moved to the Bay Area.....hence the name), let me shed some light on the route description.
First off, I thought the start was near impossible (more like 5.11+), moving up and right to some adequate holds. In fact, when I first spotted the route and convinced Brett to do it with me, I had the easier, alternate, start in mind. Oh well, things happen. Anyway, the easier start goes out a finger/ha... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the months of May and June, Dale Haas and I added 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links to the cold shuts on Simplexity, the route right of Simplexity, The Hot Zone, The Steeple, Monastic Groove, Southern Hospitality, Pandora's Pebble Pinching Palace, and Gravestones. We also removed a few smash(lap) links in the process.
This work is being carried out as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They would appreciate your suppor... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In mid-June Rob Copolillo, Dale Haas and I added 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links to the anchors on Old Deuteronomy, Mungajerry, Rumple Teaser, Mr. Mistoffeles, Jellicle Cats, Gumby Cat and MacCavity.The existing 3/8" cold shut anchors were showing signs of wear most likely due to the unfavorable practice of lowering and belaying directly through the anchors.
This work is part of the American Safe Climbing Organization's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They would app... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In early June, Ron Olsen, Rob Copolillo and I replaced the rappel/lower hardware on five of the seven fixed anchors on this crag. We removed all smash (lap) links and cold shuts and installed 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links plus new hangers where necessary. Also, we removed the worn smash links from the Le Nouveau Riche anchor (it already had quick links).
This work was performed as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. T... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In early June, Ron Olsen and I replaced all the rappel/lower hardware in the fixed anchors on this crag with 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links. In the process, we removed all smash (lap) links; the ones on the anchor of Grins were especially bad most likely due to the not-recommended practice of belaying and lowering directly through the anchors.
This effort was part of the American Safe Climbing Associations (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchors Campaign. They could use ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Inner Peace (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route seemed harder to me than 5.9+ more like 5.10b. The description in Gillette's guide mentions"fat holds". I must have missed those at the crux. BTW, the crux is not a single move, more like about 10-15 feet of continuously thin hold climbing between about bolts 6 through 8.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Rumple Teaser (5.10b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: We added 5/16" quick links with a single link of 3/8" proof coil chain to all the anchors on Catslab (except Skimbleshanks and Grizabella - they had already been"fixed" and Gus and Rum Tum Tugger..???). That should help alleviate wear problems to the cold shuts. When the 3/8" links wear, just unscrew the quick link and replace the link of chain.
Yes, it would be nice if people didn't use the anchors directly for top roping and lowering.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is indeed 5.8 you just need some route finding skills to locate the correct holds. Fun! Please do not pass this one by because of claims of a sandbag. It's not.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Traditionalists at Work (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: About the buttonhead bolts, when Dale Hass and I put up this route in 1987, we used 5/16" Rawl buttonheads which were cutting edge (supposedly) at the time for lead bolting on granite (it takes sooooo long to drill a hole in granite). Recent experiences by the American Safe ClimbingAssociation (ASCA) indicate that these are a very good choice for lead bolting as they are pretty strong (AKA very hard to remove when re-bolting).
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