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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: Jul 21, 2014
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 1,055
Total Points: 577
Last Year: 75
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bruce Hildenbrand been climbing?










Bruce Hildenbrand

 
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All 315 | Routes 25 | Areas 8 | Photos 10 | Page Improvments | Comments 157 | Posts 83 | Stars 29 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Thunderworld (5.11)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: Just as a bit of FA history, Tom Ballard and I climbed the overhanging flake and then exited left at the top in spring 1987. I put the route as a FA in the book at the Boulder Mountaineer only to have Dan Hare call and tell me that he had done the flake as well two years previously and even then he didn't feel like he had done a FA. Dan agreed that the flake was about 5.10+.

So, it appears that Steve and Gray added a direct finish to an already established route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Clearly, with the ascents on the Maiden and steep/overhanging faces of the Third Flatiron, high angle rock climbing in the Boulder area was alive and well in the late '40s and early '50s. Yes, we have the Bastille and Redguard from the mid-'50s, but if there was high quality climbing going on in the Flatirons in the late '40s did anything get done in Eldorado which has been lost over time?

Bruce


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: When we, the FA party, envisioned this route and bolted it, the line we climbed went straight up past the first two bolts then worked over to the arete on the left and climbed straight up that past three bolts then up the headwall above past three more bolts to the anchor. We spent two days cleaning the loose rock and lichen, bushes, etc. from this line.

There is a gully to the right of the arete which contains some loose rock, bushes, etc. which is off the climbing line we bolted. Obviously, ... more >>


Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 17, 2008

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Comments: If the Kor slide show is really and truly a benefit for Layton's medical expenses then those promoting the show should offer as many shows or as large a venue as possible so that the maximum amount of $$$$ can be collected to help the cause.

This shouldn't be a case of 'I got tickets and you didn't'. It should be 'we raised as much money as possible to help a truly legendary climber in his time of need.'

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 31, 2008

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Comments: You can do a variation at the top of the climb. Rather than traverse right at the pin, continue up the ever thinning crack to the anchor. Not much protection for the leader. On a TR it felt about 5.11b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Pup (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: The two anchor bolts at the top of this route were poorly placed, one bolt being about a foot higher, but also six inches to the left of the other bolt. With several quick links and links of 3/8" chain I was able to create a situation where both bolts are both about equally loaded. Now, if one bolt fails, the other should not be shock loaded.

The welded cold shut on the lower bolt is definitely showing signs of wear, hopefully this was because of the improper placement of the bolts and not be... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Hubris (5.6 R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: On 10/18/07, Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two belay bolts on this route with 3/8"x3.5" stainless steel Rawl bolts and Fixe ring hangers. Ron Olsen donated the hangers (thanks Ron!) and the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the bolts. BTW, it was so difficult to remove the original bolts (3/8" Star Dryvins) that in the process, while clenching my teeth in the effort, I (Bruce) broke a crown on one of my teeth!

With the new bolts, and nice belay ledge, this route should probab... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two bolt anchor shared by Climb to Safety, Death Tongue, Flash Flood and Cling to Safety with 3/8" stainless steel Rawl bolts. We added quick links and chains for rappel. The bolts, hangers and quick links were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the old, 1/4" bolt on Smoother with two 3/8"x3.5" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts. The extra bolt was added with permission from the first ascent party and a permit stating such was approved by the OSMP. Note that the two, well-camouflaged bolts are located about 5-6 feet left of Crescent Crack about 110-120 feet off the ground. The bolts were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org); the hangers were provided by Larry Arthur at Mountain Tools (www.... more >>


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: I would support putting up a sign at the entrance to Eldorado stating:

Entering Eldorado Canyon State Park, laws of gravity strictly enforced!

Bruce


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: When I look at the root cause of what is happening on Washington Irving, one thing that stands out is that the anchor on top of the climb is a "rappel" anchor and not a "belay" anchor. The bolts are placed far out on the wall so that it would be very uncomfortable to set up a belay off that anchor and bring your partner up. Hence, the anchor's position almost forces climbers to lower unless they want to use their own gear to set up a more comfortable belay anchor and then bring their partner(s... more >>


Location: CO : Benefit for Steve Dieckhoff
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: I second the recommendation for health insurance. You can get "catastrophic" coverage which has high deductibles and only covers you if something really bad happens for very reasonable rates that even climbers can afford. That's what I have.

Best of luck Steve. We are all pulling for you!


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 5, 2007

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Comments: One question that only CCH, and not a certified metallurgist, can answer is whether the cable was fully inserted into the socket prior to brazing. I sent an E-mail to CCH asking that they measure the cable, post-failure, to see how that compares to the specification for cable length prior to brazing.

Bruce


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Please forgive me if I am misinterpreting what I have read on this topic, but I don't think it is fair to blame Mountain Project and this forum for the Wondervu area becoming more popular. Clearly, the initial route developers tried to keep the area secret, but somebody told somebody who wasn't part of the plan and now the word is out.

In some respects, I think the Mountain Project forum can be a positive aspect of the development of Wondervu. The forum and resulting traffic will force issues... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 14, 2006

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Comments: I have an application submitted with the OSMP but we are still discussing a few details. If this really is the only place to get any protection as described by George Bell in his route description then that makes it a de-facto belay and it doesn't make sense to add just a single bolt.

I have been talking to Jim Erickson on his ideas about what he would like done with the route. On the first ascent, he doesn't remember belaying at the bolt, but he does remember that he and Jim Walsh just kind ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2006

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Comments: The original route, led by both Ron and me, had two bolt placements. Ron later added two more bolts and chose the name of the route.

Bruce


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11-)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Aug 12, 2006

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Comments: Maybe the locals can add a bit of reality here, but one reason for the original 5.10+ rating may be that there was a small tree at the first crux section (thin twin cracks) which probably made these moves easier (and is the reason the tree is no longer there!!!).

Bruce


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 2, 2006

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Comments: Ken Cangi writes:

"One of the major problems, as I have observed it, is that climbers can get so entrenched in our own personal activities that we sometimes neglect to periodically step back and take note of how our actions are affecting others....."

That's a very good description of Dean Potter!

Ken also writes:

"If these events donít teach us to curb our selfishness, then I fear for the future of this sport."

Good advice for publicity stunts like Dean Potter's climb.

Bruce


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jun 1, 2006

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Comments: First off, I would encourage everyone who has any interest in the Delicate Arch ascent to read the article on Outside Online. It is quite good and presents a lot of information from all sides, including Patagonia.

For me, the most important item in the article was documented photo evidence that Dean Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch left multiple grooves in the arch. The pictures are clear that there are grooves in the arch.

Now, some may argue that there is no way to prove that Dean left thos... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: Dean Potter slacklined on the Three Gossips over a month ago and the NPS had to modify their regs to outlaw it. Next, Dean climbed Delicate Arch and the NPS had to modify their regs to make it clear that it was illegal.

I can clearly see a scenario where the NPS realizes after these two incidents that all their regulations in the Arches are either poorly written and/or out of date and they can't wait for somebody to skate through the next loophole. It is a fact that the NPS was flooded with a... more >>


Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 24, 2006

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Comments: There are two threads on this subject on mountainproject.com happening simultaneously. Here is something I posted on the other thread from Jimmie Dunn which was excerpeted from Supertopo.com:


This is for those climbers who accept Dean Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch. I've been fortunate enough to have climbed and hiked in the canyon country for 37 years and I still do. Dean is a very good friend of mine. We have climbed some good routes together and even climbed in Arches together. I conside... more >>


Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2006

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Comments: Here are Jimmie Dunn's comments, excerpted from SuperTopo.com:

This is for those climbers who accept Dean Potter's ascent of Delicate Arch. I've been fortunate enough to have climbed and hiked in the canyon country for 37 years and I still do. Dean is a very good friend of mine. We have climbed some good routes together and even climbed in Arches together. I consider him a high quality person and a rad climber and he is for nature. Dean's ascent of Delicate Arch may not have been against the la... more >>


Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: The Park Superintendent specifically states that the regs were changed because of Dean Potter's actions and my logic doesn't make sense. Hmmm.

Again from piquaclimber:

"I just spoke with Laura Joss. She confirmed that as of May 9, no new fixed anchors are allowed in the park. She said that there will be a period of time for public input about the new regulations but as of now... no new anchors. She also said that this has promoted [prompted] the NPS to overhaul/clarify their regulations in th... more >>


Location: Updated Arches regulations
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 19, 2006

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Comments: Ken,

here are some other comment from the same SuperTopo thread:

From plquaclimber:

I just spoke with Laura Joss. She confirmed that as of May 9, no new fixed anchors are allowed in the park. She said that there will be a period of time for public input about the new regulations but as of now... no new anchors. She also said that this has promoted [prompted] the NPS to overhaul/clarify their regulations in the next year. She was happy to hear that most climbers are not happy with Dean's antic... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 18, 2006

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Comments: I did this route years ago using a topo from Rock and Ice circa 1986. We climbed two pitches above the top of the "now standard" 4th pitch (5.9 bolted face). There was a fixed anchor on top of the 2nd pitch above the 5.9 face pitch so we rapped down on that with double 50m ropes and ended up about 40 feet above the anchor on top of the 5.9 face pitch. We put in an anchor and my partner downclimbed the 40 feet putting in a piece of pro every 5-10 feet. I then took out our anchor and downclimb... more >>


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