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Member Since: Apr 18, 2003
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Bruce Hildenbrand


Point Rank: # 1,033
Total Points: 565
Last Year: 74
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Bruce Hildenbrand

 
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All (297) | Routes (25) | Areas (8) | Photos (11) | Comments (140) | Posts (81) | Stars (29) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Hollow Man (5.8)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: On September 26, 2010 Dale Haas and I upgraded the two anchors on this climb. At the anchor at the top of pitch 1, we removed the smash links and 1/4" chain, replacing them with quicklinks and 3/8" chain which we equalized. At the anchor on top of pitch 2, we removed the smash links and 1/4" chain, replacing them with quick links and 3/8" chain which we equalized.

This work was funded by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

Bruce

P.S. ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Burley Dudes (5.11d R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: I can't vouch for the grade of this route once the bolts were put in, but when we did it as a top-rope, following a very direct line to the anchor, it definitely felt 5.11+. I did Raccoon Soup on Rincon the next day and the grade felt very similar. YMMV.

Bruce


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Way Jingus (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Circ Toepel and I put this route up as a top rope in summer 1988.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Burley Dudes (5.11d R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Circ Toepel and I put up this route as a top rope in summer 1988.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: In regards to Stefan's comments on the rebolting of this route: In reading his description, it appears that some non-stainless hardware (3" x 3/8" Rawl 5-piece bolts are plated and not stainless) was used. I hope I am mistaken, but if not, there are several organizations which promote rebolting (ASCA, ARI, etc.) which provide stainless hardware free of charge. It doesn't make sense to me in light of all the time and trouble to do rebolting to use non-stainless hardware.

Also, if I am not mistak... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: As an update, that bolt (a 1/4" Rawl drive) was replaced several years ago.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: I love pitch 3, but if you are not into doing 10+ tips, you can head around to the left from the tree at the start of the pitch and do a 5.9 lieback as an alternative finish.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: Everybody's hands are a bit different so saying "hand-sized" pro is a bit ambiguous. I would recommend taking a few extra #3 Camalots (or similar sized pro in your favorite SLCD) for the crack on pitch 2. Also, there are some very conveniently placed scoops on the right wall about every 20-25 feet on that pitch which afford nice stem rests.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 6, 2009

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Comments: Today, my partner Dale and I, the original FA party, added a bolt on the runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. There are now nine (9) bolts on the route. We also did a bunch of cleaning in the gully to the right of the climbing line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Thunderworld (5.11)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: Just as a bit of FA history, Tom Ballard and I climbed the overhanging flake and then exited left at the top in spring 1987. I put the route as a FA in the book at the Boulder Mountaineer only to have Dan Hare call and tell me that he had done the flake as well two years previously and even then he didn't feel like he had done a FA. Dan agreed that the flake was about 5.10+.

So, it appears that Steve and Gray added a direct finish to an already established route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Clearly, with the ascents on the Maiden and steep/overhanging faces of the Third Flatiron, high angle rock climbing in the Boulder area was alive and well in the late '40s and early '50s. Yes, we have the Bastille and Redguard from the mid-'50s, but if there was high quality climbing going on in the Flatirons in the late '40s did anything get done in Eldorado which has been lost over time?

Bruce


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Levada (5.8+)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: When we, the FA party, envisioned this route and bolted it, the line we climbed went straight up past the first two bolts then worked over to the arete on the left and climbed straight up that past three bolts then up the headwall above past three more bolts to the anchor. We spent two days cleaning the loose rock and lichen, bushes, etc. from this line.

There is a gully to the right of the arete which contains some loose rock, bushes, etc. which is off the climbing line we bolted. Obviously, ... more >>


Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Sep 17, 2008

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Comments: If the Kor slide show is really and truly a benefit for Layton's medical expenses then those promoting the show should offer as many shows or as large a venue as possible so that the maximum amount of $$$$ can be collected to help the cause.

This shouldn't be a case of 'I got tickets and you didn't'. It should be 'we raised as much money as possible to help a truly legendary climber in his time of need.'

Bruce


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northcutt Start (5.10d)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Jan 31, 2008

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Comments: You can do a variation at the top of the climb. Rather than traverse right at the pin, continue up the ever thinning crack to the anchor. Not much protection for the leader. On a TR it felt about 5.11b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Pup (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: The two anchor bolts at the top of this route were poorly placed, one bolt being about a foot higher, but also six inches to the left of the other bolt. With several quick links and links of 3/8" chain I was able to create a situation where both bolts are both about equally loaded. Now, if one bolt fails, the other should not be shock loaded.

The welded cold shut on the lower bolt is definitely showing signs of wear, hopefully this was because of the improper placement of the bolts and not be... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Hubris (5.6 R)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: On 10/18/07, Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two belay bolts on this route with 3/8"x3.5" stainless steel Rawl bolts and Fixe ring hangers. Ron Olsen donated the hangers (thanks Ron!) and the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the bolts. BTW, it was so difficult to remove the original bolts (3/8" Star Dryvins) that in the process, while clenching my teeth in the effort, I (Bruce) broke a crown on one of my teeth!

With the new bolts, and nice belay ledge, this route should probab... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2007

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Comments: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two bolt anchor shared by Climb to Safety, Death Tongue, Flash Flood and Cling to Safety with 3/8" stainless steel Rawl bolts. We added quick links and chains for rappel. The bolts, hangers and quick links were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the old, 1/4" bolt on Smoother with two 3/8"x3.5" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts. The extra bolt was added with permission from the first ascent party and a permit stating such was approved by the OSMP. Note that the two, well-camouflaged bolts are located about 5-6 feet left of Crescent Crack about 110-120 feet off the ground. The bolts were provided by the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org); the hangers were provided by Larry Arthur at Mountain Tools (www.... more >>


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: I would support putting up a sign at the entrance to Eldorado stating:

Entering Eldorado Canyon State Park, laws of gravity strictly enforced!

Bruce


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 23, 2007

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Comments: When I look at the root cause of what is happening on Washington Irving, one thing that stands out is that the anchor on top of the climb is a "rappel" anchor and not a "belay" anchor. The bolts are placed far out on the wall so that it would be very uncomfortable to set up a belay off that anchor and bring your partner up. Hence, the anchor's position almost forces climbers to lower unless they want to use their own gear to set up a more comfortable belay anchor and then bring their partner(s... more >>


Location: CO : Benefit for Steve Dieckhoff
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 18, 2007

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Comments: I second the recommendation for health insurance. You can get "catastrophic" coverage which has high deductibles and only covers you if something really bad happens for very reasonable rates that even climbers can afford. That's what I have.

Best of luck Steve. We are all pulling for you!


Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: May 5, 2007

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Comments: One question that only CCH, and not a certified metallurgist, can answer is whether the cable was fully inserted into the socket prior to brazing. I sent an E-mail to CCH asking that they measure the cable, post-failure, to see how that compares to the specification for cable length prior to brazing.

Bruce


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Please forgive me if I am misinterpreting what I have read on this topic, but I don't think it is fair to blame Mountain Project and this forum for the Wondervu area becoming more popular. Clearly, the initial route developers tried to keep the area secret, but somebody told somebody who wasn't part of the plan and now the word is out.

In some respects, I think the Mountain Project forum can be a positive aspect of the development of Wondervu. The forum and resulting traffic will force issues... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Dec 14, 2006

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Comments: I have an application submitted with the OSMP but we are still discussing a few details. If this really is the only place to get any protection as described by George Bell in his route description then that makes it a de-facto belay and it doesn't make sense to add just a single bolt.

I have been talking to Jim Erickson on his ideas about what he would like done with the route. On the first ascent, he doesn't remember belaying at the bolt, but he does remember that he and Jim Walsh just kind ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Bruce Hildenbrand When: Oct 10, 2006

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Comments: The original route, led by both Ron and me, had two bolt placements. Ron later added two more bolts and chose the name of the route.

Bruce


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