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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : Clamydia (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: 9 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely harder than 11d, beta or not. Getting into the clam feature is the physical crux, getting out isn't too hard -- just cryptic.
Going direct and avoiding the ramp is doable, but pretty contrived.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Waterfall Cliff : The Falls (5.10a R)
By: BrianWS When: 9 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. The start is tough for 10-, but certainly not v4. The runouts are all on easy terrain, although some friable rock requires attentive climbing.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Yankee Dog (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice line! Once the first four bolts end, a few medium-small stoppers and finger sized cams are needed to safely gain the final bolt before the chains.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Crown Royal (5.10c)
By: BrianWS When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route with fun movement throughout. Neat roof crux followed by fun dyke hiking with well spaced bolts above. Not nearly as height dependent and feels much easier then the 2nd pitch of S. Herbert.
The rock looks fragile under the roof but is surprisingly solid -- the rock just above requires caution, though. Tread lightly, tap the flakes, and put a helmet on your belay.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Party in My Mind (5.10b)
By: BrianWS When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite possibly the most fun I've had plugging gear at the New. The seemingly nondescript face has some of the wildest features at Endless, smallish gear when you need it, and amazing views of the river and surrounding climbs from the chains.
Do it, do it, do it!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Autum Fire (5.10b)
By: BrianWS When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The initial crack is pretty burly. Fun range of hand sizes down low and cool laybacking up top.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area : ... : Ritz Cracker (5.9)
By: BrianWS When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The so-called 'first pitch' is probably 5.8. The thin crack ramping up out right is the business.
Also, there is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of p2. P1 has a nest of slings around a lone tree -- do the poor thing favor and continue up to the bolted anchor on this route or Goofer's Retreat, to the left.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area : ... : Triple Treat (5.10a)
By: BrianWS When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough getting established above the first roof.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area : ... : Jacuzzi Bop (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun! Easy to protect face climbing over 5.8 terrain for the most part, with two 5.10 cruxes protected by bolts. Pretty gentle for 10+, this would be a great route for sport climbers looking to make the transition to gear.
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Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : Grand Auditorium : Arupa (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clarification: Aruba refers to a Taiwanese schoolyard pastime involving the use of trees/poles/building-corners/etc to inflict trauma upon the victim's genital region. Repeated, rapid kicking of the crotch is referred to as Dianli Anmo.
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Location: PA : Ohiopyle State Park : River's End : The Bees Knees (5.10+)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great rock and excellent sustained climbing to the anchors. Even when damp, this route climbed well.
Although it isn't a jughaul past the opening moves, there were plenty of good holds and fingerlocks throughout, nothing on this climb felt harder than 5.9 or easy 10a.
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Location: PA : Ohiopyle State Park : River's End : Carl's Bunnies (5.9)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too bad about the climb's length -- this was some of the best rock quality in the area.
Also, some individual(s) needlessly scrawled 'bad anchors' in chalk at the climb's base. The anchor is perfectly fine, but it's not meant for toproping (single thick cord with a brand new rap ring). You will need to sling the tree for your own anchor if you want to TR.
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Location: PA : Ohiopyle State Park : School House Crag : Humpty Dumpty (5.10+)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun, burly crux pulling over the first roof's lip. Not much easier than the neighboring 11's and 12's, and better rock quality throughout. I hear that wasn't always the case, though... it might be a good idea to make sure the area below is clear of folks, dogs, etc.
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Location: PA : Ohiopyle State Park : School House Crag : Natural Mystic (5.12-)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very nice line. The cobblestone rock in the middle of the climb is super solid and provides sloping holds with amazing friction.
As it stands the climbing will feel very soft compared for the number, even by RRG or Red Rocks standards. I will assume the grade will increase with traffic and cleaning -- there is a major feature down low that looks like it yearns to break free, and there is a section of wall before the final roof that is very hollow.
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Location: PA : Ohiopyle State Park : School House Crag : Kaya (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing after the birdshit-saturated rest ledge. Rock quality seems to be OK after pulling the initial roof, but was very wet compared to other area routes following a melt or rain.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard start off a smallish ledge -- hang the first draw before going for it. The final overhanging face is super fun.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sour Pain (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is loose, but the climbing and rock both improve after the second bolt or so. Not quite as good as the neighboring climbs, but very fun nonetheless.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Red Heat (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first-ever route at RR... Truly a cool line. Sustained movement and cryptic beta, 5.10+ or 11- for sure.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb! Sustained overhanging climbing with no really hard moves. Very soft for 5.12.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route descriptions in both the Stiles and Handren Guide seemed way off. All pitches are slightly to fully runout, with the exception of the second.
P1 is quite runout on solid 5.9/5.10 slab. P2 felt to be the hardest pitch, although well protected. P3 seemed neither sustained nor committing. P4 was super fun, with good spacing between bolts on super positive holds.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Yin and Yang (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traversing was bouldery and fun. Short and sweet!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Marshall Amp (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt way softer than any other 11b's in the area. A few jams makes the start much easier.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Stratocaster Area : Stratocaster (5.11d)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 was a bit awkward and includes a non-trivial unprotected traverse to gain the bolts. P2 is a fantastic climb on super sculpted holds.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Satisfaction Wall : Hundra Scundra (5.10b)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I missed something, but the climbing and pro is pretty damn hairy until the roof, where it mellows out considerably.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : DC Memorial Boulder : All the Way Baby (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bouldering on a rope at its best. Shame it isn't any taller!
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