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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Total Points: 442
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All (661) | Routes (23) | Areas (1) | Photos (13) | Comments (132) | Posts (64) | Stars (235) | Ratings (193)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Warm-up Route (5.10)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I remember this one feeling harder than other lines of the same grade. Good stuff while it lasts!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Above the Groove (5.11-)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Does this start down in the same gully as First Corner? Or do you need to scramble up onto the platform, as you do for other routes on Illusion Wall?
As an easier variation, you can chimney/stem (cheating, I guess) through First Corner's 11+/12- crux. This let's you climb the sweet section of huge, juggy flakes that you miss if you start from the platform, plus you get a full-value climb that clocks in at around 5.11/-.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I'd love to, but that would entail:

a) buying a plane ticket I can't afford
b) having to back up my spray and internet claims of strength and/or boldness

In all seriousness, I can't wait to revisit the area. Vicarious climbing via MP is all I can work with these days, unfortunately.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: The first ascensionist is very, very short (although damn strong!). The grade may reflect her need for extra movement or inability to reach the opposing wall for stems.
The "11c" crux is if you climb the route as an eliminate - I believe it requires you to take the final tiered roof directly, with no stemming out right. The "true" grade is probably in the hard 5.10 range.

Regarding the bolts: different strokes, different folks etc. The local bolting ethics are a bit different than in those the... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Very Inconvenient (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: This is the extension to Inconvenient, which adds a few bolts of climbing and a second set of anchors. Continue past the first anchor up the sustained, thin face. No moves in the V4 or 5.12 range, but there aren't any of the sinker horizontals or jugs for rests that appear throughout the lower portion of the route.

Realistically a mid to hard 5.11. I remember some epoxy-reinforced holds (maybe another nearby route...), but the rock quality seemed pretty good otherwise.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Spinnaker (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Just climbed this from the Ye Gods belay ledge. What a beautiful climb, with serious exposure. 10+ or 11- is fair grade. Although the bulk of it is bolted, this is not a sport route -- the access routes are all gear, and a substantial bit of gear is needed to get to the first bolt.

A few notes:

-From the ledge, the pitch is close to a full 120ft - a 70m will just barely get you back to the anchors. Building an anchor at the base of the cracks 15 left of the belay would be bet... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Goldline (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: He traversed right along the belay ledge and downclimbed one of the 5.singledigit routes nearby. It was pretty heroic - he spent a good bit of time debating whether or not it was a good ideas in the first place. Very weixian, indeed.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Goldline (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: This line was allegedly bolted before Matt's recorded ascent, and I'm sure the FFA has been disputed by Taiwanese climbers.

I did, however, witness Matt on what is surely the route's first solo ascent. That was a pretty ballsy endeavor...


Location: VA : Old Rag : Reflector Oven : Chasm Crack (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in from the ledge to the left of Sickbay, hike all the way down to gain an additional 20-something feet of decent climbing. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.

Bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..


Location: VA : Old Rag : Reflector Oven : The Parker Route (5.11+)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: The crack is lots of fun while it lasts, but the face felt heinously difficult to get established on. It would be much more reasonable if the face weren't overgrown with lichen.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10+)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Like many of the 'sport' routes in the area, the FA for Piranha was done without the bolts. I'd assume the retro-bolter intended the route as an eliminate, staying on the face left of the arete.

The climbing is certainly more heads-up than most non-bolted lines at LD, but isn't unsafe. The climbing is relaxed when approaching runout territory, and the gear that is there is pretty solid.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Triple Cruxes (5.13b)
By: BrianWS When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun, short, and difficult route! Lots of the strong locals used this one and the nearby 5.14- as a testpiece.

The climbing through the first few bolts is really fun. It's bouldery and steep, but no harder than 5.11+/V3. The crux is pulling through the slab above on a thin thin thin seam.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Inconvenient (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Aha, never mind then.

It's probably safe to assume that all the better quality and easily accessible sport (and trad!) routes got a healthy rebolting/retrobolting since I left.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Heart Shaped Rice Cake (5.12)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Sorry, I can't recall for certain -- I think they were expansion bolts, similar to the ones on P1.
If they bothered to rebolt the first pitch, the second one would be likely as well. The climbing to the first anchors is kind of sucky so I would assume that if they'd spend all that effort cleaning it up, it would imply that they were going to work on the second pitch.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Never (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Holy sheeit...

This is a new (dubious) record for LD. A 55 ft climb only needs 5 bolts. Even that is well bolted by most standards, especially given the apparent potential for lots of gear placements. But 11 bolts??? Ridiculous.

I understand the lack of a "if it goes on gear, don't bolt it" ethic in Taiwan, but this is just absurd. And expensive!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Inconvenient (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I believe I led this route sometime in 2010. The climbing and stone are both excellent on this one, especially for the extension (if this is the same route) that goes past the first anchors.

Fun route, with some tough pulls between good horizontals. Watch for bats!

(Edited due to up-to-date bolting info)


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Moby Dick (5.9)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: There are a number of (rusty) bolted routes that continue from the belay ledge in the hard 5.11 to 5.12 range listed in the first guidebook. Have these been resurrected by the Hilti patrol yet?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Finger Crack (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: I liked this route. The character of the climbing changes completely after the ledge. But true, it isn't nearly as continuous as the neighboring routes (which aren't all that continuous in the first place, given the monster horizontal halfway up)

It's not very difficult if you know how to jam and lock -- I sure as hell didn't when I climbed this route and it felt tough. I'd love to get the chance to climb it again and see how it measures up.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Tiger's Tooth (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Haha, ain't it true... Ever wonder why there are so few trad routes over 5.10+ at LD?

If you check out Yum Yum's book, many of the sport climbs that are now fully bolted were originally mixed. Lots of FA's in the 80's and 90's were done on gear with minimal bolting, including lots of the harder lines around the clock tower area. There was a precedent for mixed climbing, just not a very vocal or strongly defended one.

A large number of the older FAs were done by foreigners (Koreans, Euros, etc... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Tiger's Tooth (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: No need for additional bolts, there's plenty of pro after (and before!) the anchors. Climbing to the Surprise Crack anchors is in the 5.9 to easy 5.10 range and well protected.

I remember the funky anchor bolting - did you end up adding links and chain?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Harley Davidson (5.10d)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Solid 5.10+ by any area standard, and harder than many of the nearby 5.11s. The route opens up with either a large campus move or strong highstep/lockoff. The rest of the climbing is sustained, technical, and fun.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (7) Second Cave
By: BrianWS When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: A coffee table-sized block came down on top of a popular spot to pitch tents one season. Heads up!
If only there was better rock quality in the cave, there could be potential for some badass routes through the roof. Too bad!



Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Nowhere Man (5.11+)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: RP with Kaiven and/or Bala, 200 or 2010. Technical and steep. The large horizontal mid-route provides relief and recovery for the thin crux, or it breaks the flow of otherwise sustained climbing. Perspectives may vary!

The Man of Nowhere variation is a fun linkup.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Sky Ladder (5.10b)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: My first route, and one of first leads, ever at LD or elsewhere. Very casual in spite of the steepness and roof.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Inconceivable (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: To climb this at 5.11, you need to eliminate use of obvious holds -- that is, avoid skirting out 3 feet left or right of the crux. If you climb the natural line, which follows the bolts safely, it's far easier and still very fun.


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