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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: Jun 26, 2015
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Point Rank: # 959
Total Points: 727
Last Year: 189
Last 30 Days: 20
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 854 | Routes 36 | Areas 3 | Photos 39 | Page Improvements | Comments 127 | Posts 90 | Stars 314 | Ratings 245
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Submarine (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: Strange reengineering on this one.

The route follows a natural line and weakness up the slab and trends to the right side of the arete -- yet the bolt has been moved left and the anchors have been moved away down and left as well, apparently in an attempt to force a direct finish.

Following the weakness right keeps the grade at pretty solid 12a, but with a nasty fall and difficult rope management during the cruxy finish. The direct variation feels much, much more contrived and difficult.

I'... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Beer Wall : My Sister Makes Cluster Bom... (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: It's thin, but it goes well below V5... did this one before I climbed other 12s at the New.

The rest of the climbing is alright. Certainly not a classic, but definitely not deserving of a "bomb" rating.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Head Wall : China Crisis (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: Many routes at Bubba City are retrobolted gear lines, per the original FA's decision. Accessibility and convenience were most likely the rationale.

What was done was done years ago and is certainly not the norm at the rest of the gorge. Since it isn't part of a new trend in the area and was done so long ago, it isn't really worth making a fuss over in my opinion.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Reach for the Sky (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: Never sent this one... It's a tough, full value 5.11. The first time I gave it an honest attempt was in full summer sun, and thought I was going to die a hot, sweaty death.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Family (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: A good route, but didn't seem to get much attention. Climbed with Milk or Wiktor, 2009ish.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : ... : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Pitch Black (5.10+)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Awesome and sustained. Some awful rock quality on the upper 2 pitches, most of which is very clearly marked.

Really oddly bolted. You can clip 3 bolts from a single stance at one moment, and then have 20 foot spacing over fairly difficult terrain.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : El Hoyito (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Unique is right... not so sure about how much I actually enjoyed the route, though. The rock looks and feels like it has been covered in a layer of fossilized candle wax.

The crux is extremely height dependent, requiring a full span move from an undercling to a pocket, followed by a dicey clip. Hard as nails for the short, and apparently no cakewalk for the tall either.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Devil's Cabana Boy (5.13-)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: P1 is super quality, technical tufa and slab climbing.

P2 is wild. Hard moves down low (12a/b) and relatively chill climbing through the amazing tufas. One more hard move through an odd flake feature gets you to the anchors.

The quality of this route may be very weather dependent. One of the main tufas was covered in moss and running water, adding considerably to the spice factor. Also, the bolts are in strange condition. Many look fairly rusted, and others have had layers of mineral growing ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Montezuma's Tufa (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Unusually popular and one of many oddly-planned lines squeezed onto this striking feature. There is one bolt of interesting (and tough!) climbing, but the rest is not much fun.

For a quality tufa route, go two (or three?!) lines down to the first pitch of Devil's Cabana Boy.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : El Sendero Diablo (The Devi... (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Downright amazing climb. The route covers multiple strata of rock and therefore has a distinct character for each pitch.

P1 is a sharp, pocketed slab similar to the base of Jungle Wall.
P2 is tough face climbing between awesome huecos.
P3 follows a crack system for a good portion of the climbing.
P4 is the money pitch. WILD rock on the face below the cardiac roof (a veneer of solid mudballs, mini tufas, and coral-like varnish)
P5 ends with airy climbing over a bulge.

The rappel could go badly ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Motavation (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Not sure which route was which from King Mota to Pancho Villa... there are so many lines squeezed in here.

The pocketed routes to the right of King Mota are all excellent and felt to be roughly the same grade(5.11a/b).


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : king mota (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Really fun climbing marred by bad bolt placement during the crux. The remainder of the bolts are well spaced, but not as likely to ruin your ankles.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : Puro Filipino (5.11)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Followed Marcelo on this. He didn't bring any gear of the right size, and half of his pro came raining down on me once the rope went taut at the anchors. He ran out the crux over shit gear like a true champion. There were anchors at the top, so it clearly wasn't an FA.

He named the route immediately after our descent. It is after the "souvenir" a friend brought back from Cebu.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (7) Second Cave : Photo
By: BrianWS When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Ugh... I remember those anchors. Questionable installation and scary condition, and that was over 5 years ago. I felt like dropping turds during the entire rappel.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Gift of Grace, The (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Word on the street is this route is now sporting new glue-ins. Bombs away!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Begoon/Artz Corner (5.9)
By: BrianWS When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Highly recommended -- a real pleasant surprise, given the route's apparent lack of traffic. Climbs very similar to corners in the Red, but with better stone.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Yum Yum's guide also lists it as a sport climb with roughly the same bolt count as it has today.
Matt's book lists it as originally being a gear line, and I remember (incorrectly, perhaps?) the pro being sort of sparse, but pretty solid.
A few other sport lines on this formation are also credited as originally being led on gear (the other 11+ and 12- climbs).


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : North East : ... : Sweet Dreams Are Made of Th... (5.12- PG13)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Onsight, but only because I was too scared to take the occasionally nasty-looking falls.
Instead of doing this line, run laps on the neighboring climbs for a similar challenge on far better stone.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Mind Bomb (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: I used a long runner on the first placement between bolts 2 and 3 rather than back cleaning it- the third bolt is in pretty bad shape. Additionally, make sure you put a long runner on the 4th bolt to prevent your rope from loading over the sharp roof - falls at the crux above resulted in a coreshot on a brand new rope.


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Contact Zone : Barney Rubble (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Great movement and good stone, though fairly height dependent. Too bad it's not part of a longer route...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Warm-up Route (5.10)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I remember this one feeling harder than other lines of the same grade. Good stuff while it lasts!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Above the Groove (5.11-)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Does this start down in the same gully as First Corner? Or do you need to scramble up onto the platform, as you do for other routes on Illusion Wall?
As an easier variation, you can chimney/stem (cheating, I guess) through First Corner's 11+/12- crux. This let's you climb the sweet section of huge, juggy flakes that you miss if you start from the platform, plus you get a full-value climb that clocks in at around 5.11/-.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: The first ascensionist is very, very short (although damn strong!). The grade may reflect her need for extra movement or inability to reach the opposing wall for stems.
The "11c" crux is if you climb the route as an eliminate - I believe it requires you to take the final tiered roof directly, with no stemming out right. The "true" grade is probably in the hard 5.10 range.

Regarding the bolts: different strokes, different folks etc. The local bolting ethics are a bit different than in those the... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Spinnaker (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Just climbed this from the Ye Gods belay ledge. What a beautiful climb, with serious exposure. 10+ or 11- is fair grade. Although the bulk of it is bolted, this is not a sport route -- the access routes are all gear, and a substantial bit of gear is needed to get to the first bolt.

A few notes:

-From the ledge, the pitch is close to a full 120ft - a 70m will just barely get you back to the anchors. Building an anchor at the base of the cracks 15 left of the belay would be bet... more >>


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