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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 15, 2014
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Point Rank: # 967
Total Points: 650
Last Year: 379
Last 30 Days: 1
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 774 | Routes 31 | Areas 3 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 140 | Posts 79 | Stars 271 | Ratings 219
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Gift of Grace, The (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Phew. This is an excellent but extremely scary climb. Be ready for full-on Endless Wall 5.12 difficulty, made even more challenging by the well-aged and well-spaced bolts.

Make sure your belayer is on point to prevent potentially bad falls at the cruxy sequences between the first and third bolts. The fall at the second layback crux is pretty large, but clean -- provided the corroded bolt (possibly from the original ascent) holds. A few bolts (#4 and #5?) can be backed up nicely with... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10+)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Yum Yum's guide also lists it as a sport climb with roughly the same bolt count as it has today.
Matt's book lists it as originally being a gear line, and I remember (incorrectly, perhaps?) the pro being sort of sparse, but pretty solid.
A few other sport lines on this formation are also credited as originally being led on gear (the other 11+ and 12- climbs).


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : North East : ... : Sweet Dreams Are Made of Th... (5.12- PG13)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Onsight, but only because I was too scared to take the occasionally nasty-looking falls.
Instead of doing this line, run laps on the neighboring climbs for a similar challenge on far better stone.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Rock Lobster (5.10c PG13)
By: BrianWS When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Unless I accidentally did a linkup with the 10D R route to the left, the runouts are substantial on this one. The first crux is a 15 foot sequence well above small gear, and has good groundfall potential if you were to blow it.
I didn't find any gear for the 15+ foot traverse back to the lone bolt, resulting in another scary sequence.

I'm surprised that the guidebook doesn't comment on the spiciness of the climb. In addition, some of the stone is still delicate in spots around and past the lon... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Third Buttress : Shake And Not Stir (5.12d)
By: BrianWS When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: There are two pieces of fixed gear on this route. There is a bleached, stiff nylon permadraw at the second bolt and a stout chain on the third. There is enough room for your own draw on the second bolt, which may be a good idea given the appearance of the sling that is currently there.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Virgin Thing (5.12a)
By: BrianWS When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Contrary to the above description, this route is pretty fun. It felt very similar to Idol Point's Spectre in many ways. The face climbing down low starts out very difficult, with groundfall potential between the first few bolts. After the second or third bolt, a finger crack appears that could easily accept gear to reduce the runout factor by quite a bit. The roof section is as good as it looks from the ground, but the rock quality is quite poor for the last 20 feet or so of climbing.

If you li... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Toxic Hueco Area : Mind Bomb (5.12b)
By: BrianWS When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: I used a long runner on the first placement between bolts 2 and 3 rather than back cleaning it- the third bolt is in pretty bad shape. Additionally, make sure you put a long runner on the 4th bolt to prevent your rope from loading over the sharp roof - falls at the crux above resulted in a coreshot on a brand new rope.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Workmen's Buttress : Two Bag Face (5.9 R)
By: BrianWS When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: As of 5/3/2014, there is a shiny new glue-in bolt on the face just above the R-rated start.
No hornets, but there was a copperhead coiled up in a key horizontal for added spice.


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Barney Rubble (5.11b)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: Great movement and good stone, though fairly height dependent. Too bad it's not part of a longer route...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Warm-up Route (5.10)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I remember this one feeling harder than other lines of the same grade. Good stuff while it lasts!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Above the Groove (5.11-)
By: BrianWS When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Does this start down in the same gully as First Corner? Or do you need to scramble up onto the platform, as you do for other routes on Illusion Wall?
As an easier variation, you can chimney/stem (cheating, I guess) through First Corner's 11+/12- crux. This let's you climb the sweet section of huge, juggy flakes that you miss if you start from the platform, plus you get a full-value climb that clocks in at around 5.11/-.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I'd love to, but that would entail:

a) buying a plane ticket I can't afford
b) having to back up my spray and internet claims of strength and/or boldness

In all seriousness, I can't wait to revisit the area. Vicarious climbing via MP is all I can work with these days, unfortunately.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: BrianWS When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: The first ascensionist is very, very short (although damn strong!). The grade may reflect her need for extra movement or inability to reach the opposing wall for stems.
The "11c" crux is if you climb the route as an eliminate - I believe it requires you to take the final tiered roof directly, with no stemming out right. The "true" grade is probably in the hard 5.10 range.

Regarding the bolts: different strokes, different folks etc. The local bolting ethics are a bit different than in those the... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Spinnaker (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Just climbed this from the Ye Gods belay ledge. What a beautiful climb, with serious exposure. 10+ or 11- is fair grade. Although the bulk of it is bolted, this is not a sport route -- the access routes are all gear, and a substantial bit of gear is needed to get to the first bolt.

A few notes:

-From the ledge, the pitch is close to a full 120ft - a 70m will just barely get you back to the anchors. Building an anchor at the base of the cracks 15 left of the belay would be bet... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Goldline (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: He traversed right along the belay ledge and downclimbed one of the 5.singledigit routes nearby. It was pretty heroic - he spent a good bit of time debating whether or not it was a good ideas in the first place. Very weixian, indeed.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Goldline (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: This line was allegedly bolted before Matt's recorded ascent, and I'm sure the FFA has been disputed by Taiwanese climbers.

I did, however, witness Matt on what is surely the route's first solo ascent. That was a pretty ballsy endeavor...


Location: VA : Old Rag : Reflector Oven : Chasm Crack (5.8)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in from the ledge to the left of Sickbay, hike all the way down to gain an additional 20-something feet of decent climbing. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.

Bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..


Location: VA : Old Rag : Reflector Oven : The Parker Route (5.11+)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: The crack is lots of fun while it lasts, but the face felt heinously difficult to get established on. It would be much more reasonable if the face weren't overgrown with lichen.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10+)
By: BrianWS When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: Like many of the 'sport' routes in the area, the FA for Piranha was done without the bolts. I'd assume the retro-bolter intended the route as an eliminate, staying on the face left of the arete.

The climbing is certainly more heads-up than most non-bolted lines at LD, but isn't unsafe. The climbing is relaxed when approaching runout territory, and the gear that is there is pretty solid.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Triple Cruxes (5.13b)
By: BrianWS When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun, short, and difficult route! Lots of the strong locals used this one and the nearby 5.14- as a testpiece.

The climbing through the first few bolts is really fun. It's bouldery and steep, but no harder than 5.11+/V3. The crux is pulling through the slab above on a thin thin thin seam.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Inconvenient (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Aha, never mind then.

It's probably safe to assume that all the better quality and easily accessible sport (and trad!) routes got a healthy rebolting/retrobolting since I left.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Heart Shaped Rice Cake (5.12)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Sorry, I can't recall for certain -- I think they were expansion bolts, similar to the ones on P1.
If they bothered to rebolt the first pitch, the second one would be likely as well. The climbing to the first anchors is kind of sucky so I would assume that if they'd spend all that effort cleaning it up, it would imply that they were going to work on the second pitch.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Never (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Holy sheeit...

This is a new (dubious) record for LD. A 55 ft climb only needs 5 bolts. Even that is well bolted by most standards, especially given the apparent potential for lots of gear placements. But 11 bolts??? Ridiculous.

I understand the lack of a "if it goes on gear, don't bolt it" ethic in Taiwan, but this is just absurd. And expensive!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Inconvenient (5.11a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: I believe I led this route sometime in 2010. The climbing and stone are both excellent on this one, especially for the extension (if this is the same route) that goes past the first anchors.

Fun route, with some tough pulls between good horizontals. Watch for bats!

(Edited due to up-to-date bolting info)


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Moby Dick (5.10a)
By: BrianWS When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: There are a number of (rusty) bolted routes that continue from the belay ledge in the hard 5.11 to 5.12 range listed in the first guidebook. Have these been resurrected by the Hilti patrol yet?


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