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Location: PA : Philadelphia : Wissahickon Valley Park : Livezey Rock : The Seven (5.7)
By: BrianRH When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: used to enjoy running laps up Unnamed and down this, travese the bottom (crux) and then back up...
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Location: PA : Philadelphia : Wissahickon Valley Park : Livezey Rock : Lammie Pie (5.11+ V3)
By: BrianRH When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: glad to hear this is considered 5.11. We used to call it "the 5.10" but I was never able to get it clean, despite having a fair number of 5.11s under my belt...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reclimbed this last weekend. Do the direct start on pitch 1. Link pitches one and two. Then don't skip the exciting variation for pitch 3. My approach was to get a good cam out a ways from the corner, clip the questionable historic pitons and run for the end rather than wrestle in more cams... Fantastic exposure. Not a super route for your second though if they are a marginal 5.7 climber...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Mr. P's Wurst (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a fun exposed climb which I'd describe as G (with the caveat that we skipped the last 30 feet or so to finish on Le Teton) . We scrambled up the gully to the ledges to the right of the bushes described in the guidebook and then went up the face to the left. Relatively easy, exposed 5.6ish climbing with good rests on big holds that look like they should be loose but seem solid. The crux is balancy and thoughtful.
Our leader decided to go right and finish on Le Teton so I didn't climb th... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Bold-Ville (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Seth notes, the actual route escapes from the traverse at the first break in the rightward curving roof under which you traverse. Slightly more challenging than going to the chains.
Fantastic 2nd pitch. Linked both pitches with with double ropes but had used my bigger cams on the first pitch and struggled to find inspiring placements for the small gear among the hollow sounding flakes and loose rocks. Save the #3 Camalot for the traverse.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: BrianRH When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: BrianRH When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I protected the traverse with a microcam. seemed solid enough. a good fun climb. You can climb past the first set of slings on the pine tree to add another 30 feet of climbing. Stay to the left though as the tempting cracks to the right all sound very hollow. From the higher ledge you can rap with a 60 meter rope
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: BrianRH When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the variation on pitch 1 that breaks left and goes up to the roof and ends at some slings (on a couple of pitons and a nut) goes about 5.7 G and stays pretty dry, making it a nice variation for rainy days.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route. Definitely do it in two pitches as described here rather than belaying at the chains (i.e. linking pitches 1 and 2 as described in the Williams guide.) Also, not a great route on a hot day - even out of the sun - as corner has no breeze at all.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Fillipina (5.9)
By: BrianRH When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Nose start makes a fantastic link up with Fillipina.
The Williams guide notes a worthy variation: Where the Nose jogs left, head right up the bulge, with a crack and a well-chalked chicken head, rather than the open book to the right. It's more direct and maybe 5.8 G (slightly height dependent). This should probably be done as a single pitch. Also, the rap is close with a 60 meter rope -- both ends of my rope were about 8 inches off the ground before my partner rappelled.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Belly (5.8+ PG13)
By: BrianRH When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: great climb that is often open due to the offputting tree in the corner on pitch 1. Pitch 2 has two nice very different cruxes. Double ropes are helpful and let you rap off Alphonse.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Easy Keyhole (5.2)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A poor choice for an introduction-to-climbing route since a beginner will likely have a lot of trouble with the bouldery start. Like Laurel, it makes me wonder about grading climbs where the crux is the first move off the ground.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: BrianRH When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hmmm... I'll need to put another photo up for this climb, as this seems too negative. The climbing is quite nice either as a TR, or for anyone solid at the grade.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: definitely PG13... One of the two pitons (the downward facing one) that protected the crux is gone and the very uninspiring remaining piton is all you have with some small pieces below your feet. The difficulty eased above, but had some runout as well if you go straight up.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Saving Grace (5.8 PG13)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: looks like the anchor tree has fallen down and hanging by its roots directly on the climb. Not sure how long it will hang there, but I'd probably not spend a lot of time standing underneath it, especially on a windy day.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Bush League (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: just to concur, "a lot of fun packed into a short pitch" summarizes it nicely
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Cherokee (5.9)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux is protecting the crux without eliminating the key hold...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : CC Route (5.7)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never had anything bigger than a #3 camalot on this one, and use the giant ring bolt for a tr. Seems very solid last I checked. Good way finish to the day, and lets you TR the 5.10ish face climbs next to it...
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