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moving into the crux


Member Since: Nov 8, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 265 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 5 | Stars 150 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Lonely Challenge

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (2)

Trad, 3 pitches, 80'

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

Apr 30, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Fern on the crux

Fern on the crux

NY : The Gunks : ... : Alphonse (5.8)

Jun 11, 2012

moving into the crux

moving into the crux

NY : The Gunks : ... : Balrog (5.10b)

Apr 30, 2012

Debbie on the top half of the first pitch of Lonely Challenge.

Debbie on the top half of the first pitch of Lonely Challenge.

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lonely Challenge (5.5)

Apr 30, 2012

this is your protection for the crux

this is your protection for the crux

NY : The Gunks : ... : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)

Apr 30, 2012

same climb. One move later. We climbed this the first day on the Brac and then came back to take photos the last day with the better light.

same climb. One move later. We climbed this the first day on the Brac and then came back to take photos the last day with the better light.

BrianRH : cayman

Nov 22, 2010

going to Cayman with a snorkel in my jeans

going to Cayman with a snorkel in my jeans

BrianRH : cayman

Nov 22, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Gothics : Gothics Arch (5.6 PG13)
By: BrianRH When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this August 18, 2014.
The first 6+ kilometers (my Australian partner had the GPS, hence measurements were metric) of the approach are along the private Lake Road, but then the path turns right at the lake and becomes steep and strenuous for the remaining 4K up the Weld trail. We harnessed up and stowed our bags on the peak of Pyramid before descending to the col with camelbacks,60 meter rope, tagline and a rack of nuts, a few tricams and cams up through #3 camalot(found use for a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Lost and Found (5.6)
By: BrianRH When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: The variation that goes straight up towards the bolts after the first roof (skipping the leftward travese in the beta photo) is probably 5.8 or so. Nice climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: BrianRH When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: the crux stays pretty dry in the rain


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: BrianRH When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: The top pitch is really very nice and unusual for the area, but I thought it was harder than 5.6. A nice alternate if there are lines on the second pitches nearby. Maybe a decade of Gunks' roofs has ruined my slab climbing, but I found it quite stimulating as a lead with just enough gear to keep it from feeling "r".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Alpine Diversions (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Pitch 2 is very nice. Going straight up to finish through the roof rather than stepping right is slightly nicer. The climb is "G" except maybe for the bouldery start.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Lisa (5.9 PG13)
By: BrianRH When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: very nice G-rated climbing on the first pitch if you have the right small cam.

There is another route/ alternate that starts a few feet to the right and goes up the other side of the arÍte to join Lisa just below the rap station. I believe Dick rates it 5.9 but I found it substantially harder than Lisa. It was fun, but glad we decided to top rope it rather than try to lead it ground up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Snake (5.7 PG13)
By: BrianRH When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: This route is easy to protect on the first pitch and has much better climbing than appears likely from the ground. I agree this would be a superb route for a new 5.6 leader. Also, its deceptively unappealing start means it's more likely to be available.

We finished on what I believe was the 3rd pitch of Steep Hiking, which the Williams guide puts at 5.6 and I'd have rated 5.7 or 5.8 (but I haven't climbed a lot whole lot of slab in the past decade so maybe it was just me.) It was the relative... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Son of Easy O (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Linked both pitches and think this is the best 5.8 I've climbed in the Gunks. On pitch two you can escape around right onto the face just after the crux for a rest, but it is more fun to contuinue straight up through the corner roofs.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : City Lights (5.8-)
By: BrianRH When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Don't get cocky and start to run it out too early, as the options for gear for the last 25 -30 feet of pitch 1 range from poor to nonexistent. There's only one 5.8 move that protects easily.


Location: PA : Philadelphia : Wissahickon Valley Park : Livezey Rock : The Seven (5.7)
By: BrianRH When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: used to enjoy running laps up Unnamed and down this, travese the bottom (crux) and then back up...


Location: PA : Philadelphia : Wissahickon Valley Park : Livezey Rock : The Ten, aka Lammie Pie (5.11+ V3)
By: BrianRH When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: glad to hear this is considered 5.11. We used to call it "the 5.10" but I was never able to get it clean, despite having a fair number of 5.11s under my belt...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Reclimbed this last weekend. Do the direct start on pitch 1. Link pitches one and two. Then don't skip the exciting variation for pitch 3. My approach was to get a good cam out a ways from the corner, clip the first 2 of the historic pitons and run for the end rather than wrestle in more cams... Fantastic exposure. Not a super route for your second though if they are a marginal 5.7 climber...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Mr. P's Wurst (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: This was a fun exposed climb that is easier than it appears. Ropes seem optional for the first pitch. We scrambled up the gully to the ledges to the right of the bushes described in the guidebook and then went up the face to the left. Relatively easy, exposed 5.6ish climbing with good rests on big holds that appear loose to look at but feel solid. There are arguably two cruxes, both balancey moves past a roof. Easier if tall. You can link the second two pitches. Easier with doubles.
After the c... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Bold-Ville (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: As Seth notes, the actual route escapes from the traverse at the first break in the rightward curving roof under which you traverse. Slightly more challenging than going to the chains.
Fantastic 2nd pitch. Linked both pitches with with double ropes but had used my bigger cams on the first pitch and struggled to find inspiring placements for the small gear among the hollow sounding flakes and loose rocks. Save the #3 Camalot for the traverse.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: BrianRH When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Up Yours (5.7)
By: BrianRH When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I protected the traverse with a microcam. seemed solid enough. a good fun climb. You can climb past the first set of slings on the pine tree to add another 30 feet of climbing. Stay to the left as the tempting cracks to the right all sound very hollow. From the higher ledge you can rap with a 60 meter rope


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: BrianRH When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: the variation on pitch 1 that breaks left and goes up to the roof and ends at some slings (on a couple of pitons and a nut) goes about 5.7 G and stays pretty dry, making it a nice variation for rainy days.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: BrianRH When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic route. Definitely do it in two pitches as described here rather than belaying at the chains (i.e. linking pitches 1 and 2 as described in the Williams guide.) Also, not a great route on a hot day - even out of the sun - as corner has no breeze at all.


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