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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: Brian Weinstein When: 21 minutes ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is by far one of the best pitches I've done on Lemmon. It's worth noting that the last 20 feet is run out 10- climbing to the top. Superb movement.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Direct West Face a/k/a West... (5.11b)
By: Brian Weinstein When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: As Seth mentions there are a couple loose flakes as you commit to the first bolt. It's a matter of time before they go...without them getting to that bolt will be much more difficult. Get it while you can, this route is stellar.
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Location: International : France : Photo
By: Brian Weinstein When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI, be careful parking along the road pictured, we witnessed numerous thieves breaking into cars in the middle of the day as if it was a standard form of employment. Park where the picture was taken, across the bridge, and walk to the crag.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10) : Photo
By: Brian Weinstein When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's none other than Professor Anderson.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Tool Man (5.11c)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree, there is definitely no reason to add another bolt before the crux as it would change the flavor substantially. This a fun route, nice job Bryan.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Shovel Point
By: Brian Weinstein When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul,
Was that the story for Palisade as well?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Heat Searcher (5.11+)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Nov 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar line. Easily one of the best I have done in the desert. Thin hands up high turned to stacks for a good 25 feet for me. So good.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Right Arm (5.10d)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Nov 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this thing was well worth doing, although not the best warm-up. bring extra .75 camalots.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quivering Quill (5.10c)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this thing climbed a lot like Lichen Lung at Vedauwoo but with better feet. Great setting. Jimmy Dunn said that he put up the FA in a blizzard thirty years ago. I wonder if that was sans shoes with one arm behind the back as well.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Howling at the Wind (5.11a)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny Tony, I took that same fall and remember a similiar feeling. It was a little slippery as well when I did it but I think that's the nature of that pitch. Attempting to place gear in that corner above the roof is difficult, running it out is the way to go.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Automotive Supply House (5.11c/d)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The beginning crux was a flaring right hand jam...the key for me was thumbs up! I was extended reaching for it. After that it turns into an enduro thrashfest. Harder then many 11's I've done at Vedauwoo. Enjoy!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Crescent Arch (5.11)
By: Brian Weinstein When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pure, quality, crack climb that is unique to Lumpy. There is a key sequence for the exit, you could definitely make this harder then 11-...but I will not give shameless beta. I faired well with only one #5 Camalot.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Piano Ridge : Piano Traverse (V5)
By: Brian Weinstein When: May 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always thought this thing was much easier then punk rock though they are both rated the same. No matter, this is my favorite of the two.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely runout at the roof. This route is incredible because it seems so improbable. Pitch 4 is up there as the single best pitch of face climbing I have ever done.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Apr 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We combined the first two pitches easily. High quality and diverse route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Art's Spar (5.10c)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got on this today and thought that it was harder then the Vertigo Roof. I agree with Tony...the bigger the mitts the easier it'll be. Thanks for sharing your story Jim!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pic Guy...very reminiscent of my experience on the route...I racked up with about 15 stoppers on their own biners...plugged and chugged. My 70 meter rope felt like a truck while clipping during those last moves. Superb Line...one of the best anywhere!!!
Tom...I found this thing slightly easier then Carol's Crack...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbol... (5.11+)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken, tough to imagine a FFA without RPs. Great route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim,
Thanks for sharing some important history about this route. That is part of what makes this site so unique. It's essential to know this kind of history to grasp the roots and spirit of climbing.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Ruffis (5.11b)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Feb 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I had to choose one 11 crack to climb at Vedauwoo forever this would be it. Something about it...
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Brian Weinstein When: Jan 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: but it looked so appetizing!! Been there. Nice shot.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Gorilla Rock : Gloria (5.11b)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Jan 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beauty in an area full of hard classics. Has anyone ticked the OW yet?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Oct 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about some exposure? Note that there is no 2-bolt anchor at the base of pigeon flake as stated in the guidebook.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Oct 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: After contemplating the crux move on p2 for a good twenty minutes I ended up committing to the higher variation with two tiny sidepulls. Either way, it's one move that is quite exciting. The RPs there are mental gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Brian Weinstein When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably not the best intro 10 for Eldo. I did not find the 0.75 or 0.5 Camalot placement before the final bulge...thus a 25 foot runout on a bomber!!! #3 HB offset...probably would have held. Exciting pitch that provides enough discomfort to want it again and again.
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