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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Meow Mix (5.10+)
By: Brian Story When: Mar 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think 10+ is fair for a grade. I didn't see the anchors at 60' either. Consider bringing an old #5 camalot for the middle offwidth pod. The anchors at 180' are chain anchors and visible from the ground. A good mix of climbing dominated by hands. enjoy
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Penetration (5.9+)
By: Brian Story When: May 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good offwidth. Maybe hard for the grade? Rock quality is bad as of May '07, but should improve with traffic. Gear up to 1 or 2 #5 Camalots.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Y Couloir (Left Branch) (5.0 X)
By: Brian Story When: May 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best ski runs I've found in the front range. Snow on the approach is always thin, so plan on some hiking regardless of the season. This line can be skied mid-winter with stable conditions which makes the approach/egress a little easier. Cornice danger is an issue. The fastest way to gain the couloir is to climb snowfields on the south face.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Y Couloir (Right Branch)
By: Brian Story When: May 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be skied with a single rope rappel over the ice chimney. I had to set and leave a rappel anchor when I climbed/skied it from below the cornice in march 2007. The upper couloir is beautiful, steep, and exposed. In the spring, the huge cornice and hanging snow make the objective hazards on this route rather severe.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Northeast Ridge
By: Brian Story When: May 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be skied in big snow years.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : South Face (Easy Snow)
By: Brian Story When: May 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: In early spring, one can also ski the first ~300 vertical feet of the South face before skiing out onto beautifully exposed snow ramps on the East face. The line is obvious. Provides a good, albeit much more serious, alternative to the south face.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Gorilla Rock : Gash (5.10b)
By: Brian Story When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is 10a in Kelman's book, which I think is accurate. Sam's description is good. The upper wide hands crack is of high quality. Well worth the walk past Reynolds Hill.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: Brian Story When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. Crux seems to be moving from one flake to the other about half way up. Topping out is a little tricky. Probably a little hard, or at least awkward, for the grade.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climb and Punishment (5.9)
By: Brian Story When: Dec 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. Harder than it looks. Sinker jams the whole way. Gear list is perfect. Watch the rope when lowering off - a 60m makes it with little room to spare.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : Baobab Tree (5.8)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper handcrack is one of the cleanest moderate handcracks I've found at Vedauwoo and not to be missed. The climbing up to the base of the handcrack is a little funky. Bring gear up to a #3 camalot and maybe a few extra hand size pieces.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb for jamming practice. Bring gear up to a #3 Camalot. Do it as one pitch. I think the 5.7- grade is fair by Vedauwoo standards.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Kim (5.6)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good first 5.6 lead and may feel soft compared to the wider 5.6 climbs at Vedauwoo. I agree that the climb is pretty short. Be sure to check out the 5.6 handcrack around the corner.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Skull (5.10a)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The steep hands section is classic and not to be missed. I too had trouble puzzling my way into the upper OW/chimney. Bring at least one #4 camalot size piece for the upper section. This climb should be done as one pitch.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a radically unique climb and should be on every aspiring offwidther/chimneyer's list. I also had some navigation issues, but eventually pieced the line together. For full entertainment value, I'd recommend doing this climb as one long, strenuous pitch. Rap Fall Wall noting the 2nd rap is a FULL 30m rap. Kneepads may not be a bad idea, depending on one's pain threshold.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Hole (5.7)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I consider this an absolute Vedauwoo classic. Climbing out of the hole is strangely reminiscent of the cave exit on the book at Lumpy ridge. I recommend linking Cold fingers and the squeeze chimney and belaying at the base of the hole. Then puzzle out of the hole, which should put a big smile on your face. I'd bring gear up to a #3 camalot. In addition to the Fall Wall decent, one can also walk off right.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb looks easier than it is. I agree with the gear comments - bring lots of small wires and place them after you've used the thin jams. Footholds are getting a little slippery.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb, not the splitter handcrack I was expecting. I'd recommend doing this as 1 long pitch. Be sure to bring at least one #4 camalot sized cam. After the steep hand to fist crack start, I found the upper OW to be moderate and not the gruntfest others appear to have found.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southeast Corner (5.10)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the upper 5.9 pitches that Tony describes and found them to be superb crack climbing. We climbed the first 5 pitches of the Kor Route including the classic 5.8+ dihedral pitch to a big grassy ledge. From there, we moved up various cracks to belay at the base of the "stepped roofs" as described in Rossiter's guide (8). The next superb pitch moved just east of the arete and followed a splitter finger crack dihedral into to a handcrack, and we belayed at the top of a semi-detached bloc... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : North Buttress (5.7)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not a classic route, but still worthwhile. The rock quality is good on the lower slabs and OK in the steeper middle section. I never encountered anything harder than 5.6 climbing.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stinkzig (5.6)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, this is a classic moderate Vedauwoo adventure climb. I first attempted this as a rope solo in December and turned back at the squeeze chimney, cold and demoralized. The squeeze chimney is tricky but can be reasonably climbed at least 3 different ways with minimal thrutching. It is probalby harder than 5.6. A #4 Camalot can be placed way back in the chimney before bypassing the tight squeeze, making the chimney reasonably well protected. The upper "pitches" are fun. Thi... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route and a striking line. I found placing small gear in the incipient crack lower down to be tricky but manageable. I agree that a #5 Camalot or equivalent is usefull but not required after the crack jags right. I recommend belaying off the bolt anchor on top instead of building an anchor. I found liebacking usefull at times.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Elevator (5.10a)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb would be a Vedauwoo classic if it was 5 times longer. As is, it serves as a good step up from Lower Progressive - similar character, just steeper. Good jams all the way.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Moor's Crossing (5.6)
By: Brian Story When: Nov 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. The chimney on the first pitch is fun - maybe more like 7. Squeezing out from behind the chockstone isn't that bad - just turn around. I have never felt the need for a #4 Camalot. The slightly runout face climbing on the "3rd" pitch is pretty easy. I strongly disagree that the leader needs to be a solid 5.9 climber, but this is probably not a good first 5.6 lead. Enjoy.
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