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Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,038
Total Points: 583
Last Year: 158
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 683 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 60 | Page Improvments | Comments 158 | Posts 420 | Stars 6 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Corona (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Dec 15, 2011

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Comments: "There is a bolted anchor a short distance above the overhang." Can you get to the ground with one rope from this anchor? Looking for descent or pitch length info.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vanishing Point (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Kevin,

No, I'm referring to the bolts/pins that have been chopped and reappear and then chopped and reappear over the years. YMC being one of them.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Yes it is possible that I, and the person who posted on SuperTopo, were off route. Although it was pretty much straight under where you traverse over to the off-width corner crack. I go to Tuoulumne every other year. Next time I'm there I'll climb the route again just to take a photo (if they are still there). I saw that ASCA replaced the bolts in 2005. I can't believe that they wouldn't have replaced the ones in question so I can only conclude that I was off route. Although I don't think ... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Snake Den
By: Brian When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Does anyone know anything about the bolt that looks like it is at the start of "Battle of the Bulge." It is one lone bolt that doesn't do any good. Did someone start to bolt this route and quit?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: I don't want to get too far down in the weeds as to what they are. I can't tell from the button-head whether they are 1/4" or 5/16", a 1/16 of an inch difference. The point is they are old rusty spinners that should be replaced on a highly travelled route. And as of July 2011 they were there. This is approximately what they look like.

Rusty anchor
Rusty anchor



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: J. Albers,

You ever climb this route or are you just guessing about the bolts? I looked on SuperTopo and someone said the same thing I did about the bolts.

From SuperTopo: Posted July 23, 2011 "At the bolts for the top of the third pitch, there are two rusty buttonheads that look like they would tear right out of the rock if the leader fell. Above that, the first bolt is a spinning rusty buttonhead that doesn't inspire a lot of confidence given what the belay bolts are, and the lack of gear... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Halloween. : Halloween (5.12c PG13)
By: Brian When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: Mark, et al.

I remember the piton on Halloween from at least 15 years ago and it was old and rusty even then. That is why I assumed it was put in by the FA (Ed Sewall). It must have been there even before the FA? Which leads one to ask "who put it there and why"? It is under the roof so it is not for top-rope purposes. The only thing I can see it there for is leading but I doubt anyone was leading 5.12 when ringed pitons were being used.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Halloween. : Halloween (5.12c PG13)
By: Brian When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: Somebody put some bolts in at Snake Den and at Pettaquamscutt Rock. They were 1/4 inch bolts in metal sleaves that you get at the local hardware store for concrete anchors. I'm pretty sure they were removed at Snake Den. I know they were removed at Pettaquamscutt. If someone is going to bolt it obviously should be done right, like by one of you two. I have a Bosch and some 3/8 stainless and Fixe hangers that I'd volunteer.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area : West Crack (5.9)
By: Brian When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: Found the first pitch to be easy for the grade (5.9) and the second pitch hard for the grade (5.8). Love this climb.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: They were there in July. Definitely button-heads with Leeper hangers. I wish I took a photo of them.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : City Streets (5.10+)
By: Brian When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: As is the case with many Gunks routes, it is easier if tall. This is considerably harder than nearby Datmantle and Dismantle which are both similar one-move 5.10s. So 5.10+ is about right.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Brian When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: Has anyone (ASCA sponsored maybe) thought about replacing the bolts on this route? It is a very popular route and has some rusty 1/4" or 5/16" button-heads. Especially the two-bolt anchor on the top of the 3rd? pitch. Granted you are not going to generate a lot of force sliding down this slab but there is no telling what these bolts look like under the rock.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vanishing Point (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: Mike, I have no idea how many chopped bolts/pitons are on the main cliff. I only know of single (chopped) bolts/pins on Vanishing Point, Knight's Gambit, and YMC. I'm not defending the choppers just trying to set the historical record straight. What I'm suggesting is that now may be a good time to replace the previously existing bolts at Ragged with those bomb-proof glue-ins that are popping up around the state. It would need someone taking the initiative of running this by the RMF.
Brian


Location: CT : Central CT : Bradley Mountain : Firewall : Historical Routes
By: Brian When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for updating the topos with the new routes. Topos are more helpful than descriptions.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vanishing Point (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: The bolt was placed on rappel by Mike Heintz and I'm pretty sure that Bruce Dicks (the FA) chopped the bolt, at least the first time, not who you are implying. Although he may have chopped it the second time.
Bolts at Ragged are not allowed per the Deed of Conservation Restriction that the Nature Conservancy worked out with the Berlin Land Trust. However, bolts that were there before the transfer of land are allowed to be replaced per the agreement. So if you want to replace the bolt you may b... more >>


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vanishing Point (5.10a)
By: Brian When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: FA (top-rope) Kevin Bein, 1969.
FA (lead) Bruce Dicks, Jim Adair, November 1976.

Bolted on rappel 1976, chopped. Bolted on lead, chopped.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Chopper flakes (5.8 R)
By: Brian When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: Chopper Flakes 5.8+ R. FA (TR) Mark Delaney, September 1973. FA (lead) Ken Nichols, Bob Clark, May 1981.


Location: CT : Northeast : Wolf Rock : Upper Tier : Toe Crack (5.3) : Photo
By: Brian When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: Toe crack is the crack on the right and was rated 5.3 but was retro-graded to 5.6 in Dave Fasulo's guidebook. The big crack/gully on the left is 4th class.


Location: Rhode Island : Durfee Hill : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: Photo from www.climbri.org


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Consolation Prize (5.8)
By: Brian When: Sep 8, 2011

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Comments: I think the top half of the line on your topo photo is too far to the right. Right about where you mentioned you got lost. I've done this route many times and always headed left on the fifth pitch up a bit of a run-out slab to meet up with Wiessner's Corner. The description on Chauvin Guides is accurate. I also added a beta photo that was updated after the rock fall.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington
By: Brian When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: Who determines classics? I can't believe that a couple of X and R rated obscure routes that no one does are classics and Southern Migration (arguably the best route on the cliff) is not.

There is some new route development going on to the left of Once is Enough at the bottom of the cliff. There was a line of bolts with some webbing hanging when I was there last year.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Dat-Mantel (5.10b)
By: Brian When: Jul 30, 2011

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Comments: Takes a gold Camalot below the roof on a long runner and a red Camalot clipped short immediately above the lip of the roof in a horizontal. You can also get a #1 blue Metolius in the horizontal to back it up.


Location: Rhode Island : Snake Den
By: Brian When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: There is a 1991 guidebook to Snake Den on www.climbri.org


Location: Jonathan Fields : Mt. Olympus, West Slab : Photo
By: Brian When: Oct 27, 2010

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Comments: It is actually a little steeper than shown. Check the horizon. It should be horizontal. That is how you can check to see if the photographer is making a photo appear more/less steep.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: Brian When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: Fun route. Very un-Gunks like slab climbing. Protects reasonably with #2 Yellow and #3 Orange Metolius doubled up at the first horizontal. Three bolts and a piton above that then one or two larger cams in the easy blocky stuff just before the end.


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