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Eiger summit


Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 1,024
Total Points: 626
Last Year: 152
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 740 | Routes 5 | Areas 5 | Photos 66 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 456 | Stars 6 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6)
By: Brian When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: Joe,

The 5.8ish route with the small overhang on the topo has gone free many times. I assume you are talking about the big roof to the left of that route. It has not gone free. Good project for you.

There is also another big roof at the north end between "Disneyworld" and "Something Dirty" that may go free if you like hanging upside down jamming a crack.

Brian


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6)
By: Brian When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: No name. It has been top-roped and led many times over many years so the first ascent is lost to history. There are some ancient pitons on this wall on the roof route. The AMC climbed here back in the 1960s.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : The Bugaboos
By: Brian When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: There are two guidebooks both published in 2003.

ontopmountaineering.com/bugabo...


Location: CT : Eastern Coastal Slope : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall : Wallow In The Hollow (5.12c)
By: Brian When: Dec 7, 2012

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Comments: I'm pretty sure it was Whitey (John) MacLean but that might have been the TR and not the lead.


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Mt. Ann : The Lot Crag : Photo
By: Brian When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: The climb should be called "Plumber's Crack."


Location: Rhode Island : Beach Pond : North Shore : Parking Lot Wall
By: Brian When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Yeah...I consider Ross Pond and Lantern Hill to be Rhode Island climbing areas too. :-) There are more RI climbers that climb there than CT climbers.


Location: Rhode Island : Beach Pond : North Shore : Parking Lot Wall
By: Brian When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: If it is the same boat launch I used it is in CT. Should this cliff/boulder be in the CT section?

ct.gov/dep/cwp/view.asp?A=2686...


Location: Rhode Island : Durfee Hill
By: Brian When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: Mark,

The crag you refer to on Yosemite Valley Road in Dayville is heavily posted. There is a No Trespassing sign every 20 feet. It's too bad as it is a decent cliff. I have an old photo of Whitey climbing on the 5.9 arete.

Brian


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Found this at the bottom of Southern Migration/Perennial in Sept 2012.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like a great idea. RMF organizes a clean-up/trail maintenance get together every year. Perhaps some of this reforestation could be incorporated into that. The second crux will be keeping people off the area if you want to move the tree-line closer to the edge of the cliff. Climbers who don't have trad gear and/or don't know how to place it will go back for tree anchors. And in places the rock is pretty fractured for gear anchors even if you have gear. So bolted anchors will be absolu... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Photo
By: Brian When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: The Metacomet trail goes over the top of the cliff. So there are lots of "tourists" (non-climbers) up there. Putting anchors on top of every climb would reduce foot traffic but it would hardly eliminate it and, as you know, it will never happen. Speaking of erosion, the bottom of the cliff suffers from the same overuse (almost all from climbers). The tree roots at the bottom have been getting more exposed over the years. Probably the only fix for that is to strategically place more rocks as ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Dos Equis (5.8 R)
By: Brian When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: An "R" rating? I didn't think it was that run-out. Well protected by Pinnacles standards.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington
By: Brian When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Ryan,

I agree that Mt Huntington is a great place to climb. I've climbed most of the routes there. Some a few times. Southern Migration, Perennial and even Once is Enough are fun and worth doing. My point is that the MP database assigned "named" and "no name" as "classics." According to MP no one seems to climb these routes and according to the description "no name" has "no pro for the first two pitches" and the "unamed" descent is "ridiculously dangerous." They don't sound like they dese... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall : Tasmanian Devil (5.10+ R)
By: Brian When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Morgan,
I can't comment specifically on the gear on this climb but, as I commented on "Sunshine" another "freed" climb, by "free" I mean you place maybe one or two pieces of gear and are in ground-fall range for a good portion of the climb. Does that count as a trad lead or is it a free-solo with some placed gear so you can call it a trad lead? Lots of freed climbs were done like that in CT.


Location: CT : Eastern Highlands : 50 Footer
By: Brian When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I always approached it by going down Chaffeeville Road to Bousa Road and parking at the utility line trail then following the utility line trail up the hill and approaching it from the top. There may be a better way but this approach isn't bad.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Entertainer Wall : Sunshine (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: I can not attest to this particular FA because I wasn't there. Knowing that south face I suspect that the gear was marginal at best. I have been present at some CT FAs and many I saw were not really trad climbs at all. They were free-solos where the climber placed some gear but he was in ground-fall range for the majority of the route. He did it to claim a first ascent and stroke an ego. So the old-timers (Iím an old-timer) can brag about how big their cojones are and that theirs are bigger... more >>


Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: Yeah but I'm getting old... Maybe I'll bring Whitey up there and he can show me the move. Out of multiple tries, I got it once and it was a desperation move off of a reachy crimp. Once I had a hard-climbing young-gun Lincoln Woods boulderer (Sean Robar) with me and he grabbed the draw after peeling off backwards. Not a 5.9+ for me.


Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: You say it should be 9+ but you are you the only one who knows how to get over it at 9+? Are you 6'5"? Your prominent NH friend can't get over it first try and many of my friends who are solid 11 climbers also can't get through the move clean. Does that make sense to you? Let me know next time you are going to do it so I can come watch and I will know how do do it at 9+. I know a few local North Conway climbers who agree with me that it is a sandbag.



Location: NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Brian When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: I don't usually have a problem on a 10a. Either the crux move has some secret hold or sequence that I haven't figured out or it is one of the biggest sandbags in the White Mountains.


Location: NH : White's Ledge
By: Brian When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know info on the bolted sport routes at the bottom of the cliff to the right of Endeavor?


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.7)
By: Brian When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Wet Wall (5.6)
By: Brian When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: No the Falcon guidebook (Dave Fasulo) has it right. The topo is accurate. It goes straight up the face just to the left of a stepped left facing corner and well to the right of the Knight's Move corner.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Entertainer Wall : Sunshine (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: FA on TR: Bob Clark June 1980
FA on lead: Chad Hussey, Sam Slater, Ken Nichols, June 1982


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Dream Weaver Wall : Tiptoe (5.9 R)
By: Brian When: Jun 5, 2012

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Comments: It has been freed multiple times. I think that at worst it is a "R" not an "X." (Dave Fasulo has it as an "R" in his guidebook and he is usually conservative on gear ratings.) Although I may have traversed over to the crack on Locomotive Breath for gear. Really fun overhanging start followed by some great face climbing.

FA: Rick Murnane, Bob Connolly, November 1979.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Brian When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: Drake, That variation you did was the first pitch, or part of the first pitch, of Carbs and Caffeine. Williams rates it 5.9- in the black edition.


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