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Member Since: Sep 27, 2001
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 962
Total Points: 610
Last Year: 191
Last 30 Days: 79
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (622) | Routes (5) | Areas (7) | Photos (60) | Comments (155) | Posts (360) | Stars (6) | Ratings (29)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Brian When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: If you look at Williams' and Swain's guidebooks these routes are distinctly different. They do not start at the same place. I've climbed here a couple of times and I suspect that I, and probably others, start up Moondance and finish up Sundance. I'm on something because there are pitons that I follow. Not that it matters, it is a fun romp away from the crowds and a great place to have lunch under the pine tree on top.


Location: CT : Central CT : Rattlesnake Mountain : Rattlesnake Cliff : Slip Knot (5.9-)
By: Brian When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: There is a variation that is frequently done that goes straight up through the notch in the roof instead of traversing at the arete and up. It is about a grade harder.

BTW...Slip Knot was originally rated 5.8.


Location: CT : Southeast : Lantern Hill : Black Beard (5.7)
By: Brian When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: "...at least pg gear..." Yup...this lead is about as "G" as they come. You can plug gear in prodigiously along the entire route including up the top arÍte. It may be a little hard for new 5.7 leaders to place gear (one-handed stances) but it takes bomber gear if you are competent at placing it.

www.climbri.com/lantern.htm


Location: Rhode Island
By: Brian When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Bradley,

The only place I know of that fits that description is the limestone quarry off of RT 146 and Wilbur Road in Lincoln. It is an active quarry and you will probably get arrested. If you know of another place I'd love to hear about it.
Brian

>>bradley white
>>Jul 28, 2013

>I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet ... more >>


Location: Rhode Island
By: Brian When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: Harry,

Did you every climb on the cliff in Tiverton? The tallest cliff in RI is off Main Road. Unfortunately it is on private land. It was climbed years ago (no permission asked-none given). Some guys from Roger Williams College bolted it but I heard it got chopped.

Brian


Location: CT : Northwest : St. John's Ledges
By: Brian When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: If it is state land commercial guiding needs DEEP written permission. I don't believe that St John's Ledges is on state land.

CT DEEP Regulations...

(h) Commercial restrictions.The use of state park or forest lands or any improvements thereon for private gain or commercial purposes is prohibited, except by concessionaires or vendors with written permission of the Commissioner, or the Commissionerís designee, or by Special Use License issued by the Department of Environmental Protection.


Location: International : Europe : Switzerland : Eiger
By: Brian When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: There is only one "classic" route on the north face, the 1938 route. I have beta on the Nord Pilar, (North Pillar) if that interests you.


Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Photo
By: Brian When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: Come climb there sometime and I'll show you around. There are multiple cliffs there and one is 85 ft tall. Did you see the shot of the Ross Pond climb "La Mesa" on the cover of Rock and Ice?

Brian


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: If you do the first pitch variation be aware that the rock quality is less than good in a few places which is inconsistent with the rest of the route. There was a significant rock fall on the original start in 2009 injuring the climber.


Location: MA : Bunyan Mountain
By: Brian When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: It has been reported to me that the access from Bunyan Road is not an option. The landowner has been leaving notes on the windshields of people parking there, so please do not park there. If you can figure out how to get access from the top/back of the cliff via the former state hospital property, then please let me know. According to plat map lines on Google, the land is owned by whoever owns the former hospital property.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Mount Huntington
By: Brian When: Jun 22, 2013

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Comments: Once is Enough (OIE) isn't anywhere near Perennial and Southern Migration. You have to split off the trail to the left a considerable way before you get to the base of those routes. It is actually a shorter approach. You can't see the first bolt on OIE until you climb up and around a corner. The route is fun except it is a bit convoluted in that you are climbing mostly 5.7 until you get to a headwall with one 5.10d move followed by a bit of 5.9. It is out of character with the rest of the r... more >>


Location: CT : Southeast : High Ledge : Main Wall : The Roof (5.8)
By: Brian When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: Sorry Keith but you did not get the FA. This has been led and climbed many years before your lead. It has always been rated 5.8. Rock quality is suspect.


Location: NH : Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian...
By: Brian When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: There are topos of many of the routes in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing New England." I revisited the cliff a year ago and there was a significant rock fall path that took out some good size trees so you want to be careful.


Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Yup...Burro is used to distinquish them from a donkey by size just as a pony is distinquished from a horse by size even though they are both Equus ferus caballus.


Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: Brian When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: It's actually a burro.


Location: MA : Bunyan Mountain
By: Brian When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: >>It's on private property and can not be accessed legally. This area should not have been posted on TMP.

I climbed there with permission of the landowner years ago. Did you ask? There is a pretty well-worn hiking trail across the top, so people obviously access the property. Your local crag?


Location: MA : Bunyan Mountain
By: Brian When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: I'm not sure of the access issues at this time. I've only gone in with Ken Nichols who has a key to the gate off Macomber Road. I haven't been there lately. I heard that you can walk in via Bunyan Road, but you have to cross someone's land, so you have to ask permission.


Location: CT : Southeast : Lantern Hill : Porcelain Arete (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: PG13?? Where did you get that from? It is ground fall most of the way up the route. It isn't a lead. It is a free solo on gear. Someone broke their back here on Zen Master so be careful.


Location: CT : Southeast : Lantern Hill : Porcelain Arete (5.9- X)
By: Brian When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: This can be set up with 75 ft of static rope off trees. I wouldn't leave cams on top. They could get stolen. It has happened.


Location: MA : Joe's Rock : Smokey Joe's Cafe (5.10b)
By: Brian When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: If you are going to quote the route information directly from my copyrighted site you should at least cite the source.

www.climbri.com/joes.htm


Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Parking Lot Wall : Good Book (5.8+)
By: Brian When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: It is actually a 5.8+ There is a 5.9 variation.

www.climbri.com/ross.htm


Location: MA
By: Brian When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: "A 'new' area on public land that has never been climbed before." There is no such thing in the east. Also just because it is public land, bolting may not be legal.

>>>Hey all. I just moved from the west, where there are tons of sport routes. I have been exploring a new area in the Boston area on public land. It has never been climbed as far as I can tell. If I put up bolted routes, will I be roughing up someones feathers? A few bolts would make some r... more >>


Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: While your are at it try these roofs on the north end.


North end roofs Ross Pond
North end roofs Ross Pond



Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 23, 2013

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Comments: Morgan,

You're on. It will be worth it to see someone climb it. I think you will find it is harder than it looks. There is another hard roof there you can have a go at too.

Brian


Location: CT : Northeast : Ross Rocks : Party Wall : Unknown 5.6 (5.6) : ... : Photo
By: Brian When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Ha...if you can onsite it I'll buy you all the beers you can drink.


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